
roks
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Everything posted by roks
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I believe there is a connection on the back of the radio unit for the video and power.
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Condenser is a easy DIY task as the system is empty.....if indeed it is the condenser, here's mine, it had a very fine leak, system was still working, just over 300g of gas was evacuated when I did the job.
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Or maybe a stone got lodged between the dust cover and the disc, like I had once but get it checked for peace of mind.
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I bought 2 sets of tools and 2 torque wrenches, a bacho 3/8 and 1/2in erimo?. 3/8 torque wrench is halfords 10-80Nm I think. 1/2 is a cheapo German brand cant remember name similar price 40-210Nm.....hub nut needed 210. Bought both when I did the clutch job on my corolla, still use them regularly.
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Well its all charged up, blowing cold air, will be a real test in the summer, it was freezing outside yesterday. The usual guy wasn't there, I hope this guy did the vacuum properly, told him system has been open and needs vacuum, told me it wil be 1.5hrs but was all done in 45mins, filled up 450g of freon. I'm also assuming there's no leaks otherwise he wouldn't have charged it up?
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No, I took it to kwikfit to discharge the gas, 314g of gas and 3ml of oil came out apparently. I ment on the new condenser, comes sealed and pressurised, when you remove the temporary bolts, the rubber bungs fly out, can easily do some damage if you get hit. OK, I didn't know that, how about the oil in the compressor?
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Changed the condenser, added 40ml of pag46 oil as per toyota manual, will take to shop for vac and recharge at the weekend. One word of caution, dont be leaning over the ports when undoing the bolts, the rubber bung flew out like a gun being fired, luckily I was away undoing the other port.
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All completed, total time spent aprox. 14 hrs, but I reckon if I was to do it again, I can do it in half that. No screws left over so that's a good sign....only thing I messed up on is I mixed one of the o-rings for the condenser pipe and one fell down the firewall so I don't know if its the new or old.
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Thanks @Stivino I wacked it with the impact wrench lightly, just wanted to be sure. Just need to replace the condenser now and then take it to be recharged.
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No takers?
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Finally managed to remove the evaporator, as suspected, fins were corroded, tons of white stuff on it. Replaced the evap, cleaned out the white stuff from the aircon box etc. Ended up following the manual and taking everything off, wasted too much time trying to find short cuts. Now putting thing back together is another challenge, misplaced a bolt some and also trying to find the torque spec for these bolts. Anyone know the torque specs please? Not listed is the manual bit for the other bolts they are listed, not for these. Thanks
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Update: Replaced the clock spring/spiral cable, 30min, it wasn't too difficult, all working now. Thanks
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Thanks All for your input, I had a trial and answer is stick to the original, 26", 14" and 8". Got the Bosch H200 for the rear, fronts are Bosch, coming up to a year, still good, will decide whether to get Bosch or Denso hybrid when its time.
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I was thinking of Bosch AR24U, AR16U and H252 instead of AR26U, AR14U and H200
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Hope everyone is safe and well. The standard size is 26" driver side and 14" passenger size and 8" on the rear? Will it work if I were to adjust the sizes a bit, say 24" on the driver side and 16" on the passenger side? so that it clears a bit more on the that? As for the rear, its just so small, will a 10" fit? Thanks
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Thanks @Red_Corolla, I come across another post elsewhere, something about 'coil wire' on the steering column. Will see how expensive and difficult it is to change.
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Hi All, My brother has a 2010 Prius, horn volume gradually went down and even died. I got him to do steering wheel, lock left and right and horn was still not working. Today I had a look in the fuse box, the 10A fuse s/horn was fine, there was also a missing relay marked s/horn, I borrowed the fan relay and tested the horn it wasn't working, then I got him to lock steering wheel left and right and it worked on the right lock. The horn is still working in all position, I've move the replay back to the Fan position. Is there supposed to be a relay in s/horn? What's the likely cause of the horn not working in the 1st place? Thanks in advance.
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When I got my car, I looked at the service receipts, the garage used 5w30 C3, since after the warranty. I asked Toyota dealer, they told me its was the wrong one and it should be 5w30 C2 😂. (I thought C2 and C3 was for diesels?) So sometimes best not to ask the dealers, ask a forum instead. I've changed it to 0w20 and will stick to that as the manual calls for 0w20.
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Did they also try to scare you with covid germs flying around and it really should be done 🤣? Bunch of rip offs, save your £120 for something else mate.
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I know all you guys were loosing sleep over whether I'll make it to the filling station in the morning or not.😅 Well guys, you'll be glad to know I made it, with tons of spare fuel, I recon it can do 10miles easy after the last mark on the gauge. Take the range display as rough indicator, during my short trip, dropped of daughter to school, got diverted due road works, then spent good 5-7min in slow moving traffic all the way to the filling station. The range changed several times 1mile to 0 to ---. My old 2004 corolla had appox. 15miles after the last mark, but never went dry to find out exactly.
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Shall I drive with the can in the boot and let you guys know how far I got? 🤣 At least then I don't have to walk the full 2.5 miles
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I normally fill up as soon light comes on but lately been doing school and not been paying attention. its showing 1 mile, so I don't want to risk it as the petrol station is 2.5miles away. I've never run empty until it stopped so don't know how far I can go.