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    ST185. 5th Generation GT-4. (The good lookin ones.)

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  1. daktari

    DAKS GT4 ST185

    Lightened. Lowerwed and Lairy.
  2. You could always get a bolt in harness and utilise the rear belt floor mounting points. I used Spax lowering springs -30mm. They work ok on smooth roads but overwhelm the shocks on bumpy bits (Most UK roads) Should be OK for the track though. Cheap too.
  3. Hi Ozzy. Cant see what the rear axle beam and associated bits has to do with losing power. I think that may be an entirely separate issue. You really need to check engine power somehow. Check basic things like vacuum hoses. Is the turbo working? Is the actuator for the turbo working? Turbo charged motors are relatively gutless without a working turbo. Low compression etc. That's my first thoughts. Also has any work been done that may have affected the engine timing? Moving away from the engine. Brakes? are they binding? If the car's been laid up for a while it may be worth jacking each wheel and checking. As I said, check out all th ebasics first and let us know how you get on. Dak. :)
  4. Have you got it sorted yet ozzy. If not PM me and I'll go through it with you. ATB Dak
  5. Like I've just done. with my '68 selectamatic :lol:
  6. My other half has 3. A band around her upper arm, a little birdie on her groin and a dream catcher on her lower back. I think they are quite tasteful and relatively discreet and look really nice. Go for it DA. :D
  7. daktari


    Most definately a rip off. There's still a lot of garages that are prepared to quote silly prices just because a car's an import. You are right in thinking that the running gear is Celica based. Get along to a decent motor factor that sells Blueprint parts and they should be able to cross reference a CV joint for you. Compare the old and new parts before fitting, especially the number of splines. Keep the receipt in case it's the wrong one. It's not a hard DIY job if you're ok with a set of spanners, and you should be able to do the whole job for around the £50 mark.
  8. You need to be taking the oil pressure from the cylinder head as this is where the pressure is at its lowest. As Dawesy says utilise the existing take off in the head or fit a remote sender like the one on mine. Do not use one of those brass T pieces. The vibration will probably cause it to fracture and you'll be cleaning up oil for a month of Sundays. :D OK to use a sandwich plate for the temp though. But try to protect the filter with something that'll reflect the heat. It sits very close to the turbo. T PIECE (Rubbish) REMOTE SANDWICH PLATE
  9. mate when u take the dizzy cap of the rotor arm is under it. its the rotating arm in the dizzy cap Which is held in place with a socket headed bolt. And will still probably resist your best attempts to remove it. They can be a bit stubborn. :D
  10. What size I/C are you planning on using? I made up my own mounts to use a Cossie I/C. Lots of folk cut out the front bumper support to locate the larger type I/Cs. Not a great idea if you end up having a frontal impact.
  11. Looks like it's about 35 - 40 mm lower. If you've just got lowering springs fitted, it could be the shocks are at or very close to the limit of their travel on compression. Uprated, shorter stroke shocks with a smaller body will cure that along with removing or better still cutting down the bump stops. Ideally matched springs and shocks (Uprated) would be the best bet. 30mm is usually more than enough to lower it as any lower will put more strain on CV joints as they will be deflecting more than they were designed to. Here's some pics of mine 17s and standard springs. 16s and 30mm lower springs Hope that helps.
  12. Gen 5 ST185 is what you've got. The plastic the grilles made from is very soft, just as well when there's speed humps around. If you have a close look you'll see that the grille panels covering the fogs are seperate. You have to fiddle around a bit to unclip the covers. Actually quite easy to do, once you've done the first one.
  13. Seconded. They're not sealed.
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