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fastbob72 last won the day on September 22 2016

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About fastbob72

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  • Birthday 10/10/1972

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    Avensis 5dr vermont 1.8 vvti
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  1. Headlight Cleaning

    The 'trade' version of G3 is a very good product we used it when I worked as a valeter in a Ford dealership to remove the dried out, scuffed, scratched, faded, damaged or discoloured top layer of paint to get back to the fresher paintwork.It is very gritty, pretty thick too so you're right it does dry out very quickly on the cloth very much like TCut does (in fact, it's as effective as TCut but maybe not quite as easy to burn through the paintwork with as TCut can be). As with TCut though, if it does dry out and becomes hard to polish or buff off by hand i.e the cloth drags and catches on the surface of the panel when you try to polish it off then the simplest and easiest thing to do is put a layer of fresh generic polish on top of the G3 or TCut and you'll find it'll cone off as easy as just polish alone. Ideally that version of G3 is best used with a proper machine buff with a compounding head,working it in manually is of value but nowhere near as effective as when used with a machine buff. Funny enough though I have used it myself, by hand to clean up the badly yellow headlights on, yes a bloody Renault Clio and it worked beautifully but as has been said the yellowing does return in time You can buy Fracela G3 from Halfords or online no doubt but it's marketed for the owner/amatuer enthusiast rather than trade unsurprisingly it isn't as effective as the original product. I bought some a month or so ago to try it out but it's completely different, a lot thinner with no grittiness at all although it does have some cut to it. I get my original G3 and G10 from ebay and it's not expensive at all.In fact for cutting back through the top layers of paint back to decent colour and prepping the surface it is hard to beat the traditional TCut, G3, G10 combo πŸ˜†πŸ˜† As for the ongoing yellowing I have no. idea how you can remove it permanently, if that's even possible.The Clio headlights appear to be made out of pretty cheap low quality plastic and it seems like fading and yellowing is an inherent property of the material itself. Having no experience of the quality or knowledge of what the Rav4's headlights are made from it's hard to say if you could eradicate the problem altogether but my T22 Avensis has what appears to be headlight lenses made of glass and I've never had any issues with them at all :)
  2. A set of Wolfrace alloys

    Hello there everyone, am not expecting big things with this post because it's a very specific request but you nevet know πŸ˜‰πŸ˜‰ What I'm looking for, have been for a long while now with not even a hint of success as yet is a set of alloys wheels for my T22 Avensis. Sounds simple but wait a minute there's a specific set I'm looking for that would absolutely set the car off which has been lowered approx 50mm all round but more importantly levelled out (no, rump high up in the air nowadays lol). I've got her on the standard 15 inch Vermont alloys which I'm really quite happy with despite 100s of people telling me I need 17 or 18 inch alloys now it's lowered. No, I don't. Absolutely not but as I said there is a set of rims that would be perfect, I can see it in my minds eye :) So, if anyone has a set of Wolfrace Street Octanes of 16 or 17 inches 5x100 stud pattern then please, please let me know. Cash is here for them. Don't care about tyres, condition isn't critical although deeply scored or buckled wheels are of no use but I'll happily buy a set in need of a refurb. Anyway, hope someone out there has or knows of a set but I don't hold out a great hope. I will say though if someone has a genuine useable set for sale I'll pay a good price for them.C Cheers Bob.
  3. Reducing condensation inside cars

    A very simple way to reduce the amount of condensation that can build up inside the car is to leave your front windows slightly open as this allows the circulation of air. Of course, if you live in a built up urban or city area and park the car in the street then you may not be keen on that idea. Living in the middle of nowhere I don't always lock my car overnight when it's in my drive so leaving the windows open by an inch or a half inch is no big deal. Having stripped out my A/C completely I don't have it to aid the ridding of moist air particularly heading into work at 4.30.or 5 am so rely on the old fashioned heater and an open window. Speaking of windows I wholeheartedly agree with the point about keeping the windows as spotlessly clean as possible. Never mind the condensation there are so many very good reasons to take the extra time to do your windows that there's no real excuse not to. Vastly improved visibility being the critical and most obvious reason but when I say vastly I'm not exaggerating at all.Windows get dirtier over time so you tend not to notice how dirty they've become. Like all the most annoying and mundane chores in life if you do it regularly you find that it takes less effort each time. Do it weekly in 15 minutes or twice that and more if you leave it months at a time. As an ex-valeter I can also add that clean windows make a bigger difference to the overall look of your car than anything else. Obviously it won't make up for dent, scratches and rust spots but a nice car with clean windows looks 100 times better than a nice car with dirty windows. Sounds stupid, one of those things self confessed experts always seem to come out with but you'd be surprised at how much things that people don't consciously notice about a car contribute to the overall impression. If ever you're selling your car and are short on time, do the windows and the door shuts properly and just wash it, it'll pay dividends lol.
  4. Put my now 15 year old T22 vvt-i in for the retest on mon 08/05 and again she went through with just 2 advisorys..... weeping power steering hose and having fully modified suspension lol.

    She's a 166,000+ miler with the infamous 1.8 vvt-i 1ZZ-FE engine that does go through oil quicker than what would normally be healthy yet she got through the emmisions test.... not just scraped through but passed well.

    Doesn't sound like an oil burner does it. She weeps oil from around the timing gear cover, the chain tensioner area which is very hard to see, I only noticed because I was right in under the engine getting between the block and bulkhead.

    The area around the piwer steering pump is slick with engine oil.

    I often wonder how many vvt-is have been condemned as oil burners when in fact they were weepers/leakers lol.

    Now she's through I can finally turn my attention to rebuilding the motor for her......yeeha !!

  5. Reading ABS fault codes.

    Well,the latest update is the car has had the drivers front up on axlestands since wednesday while I've been replacing the driverside inner CV boot. Obviously,I'm doing it while working everyday including today. In fact it'll be tuesday before I. get a day off again but that's another Anyway,replacing the boot properly entails removal of the driveshaft, or at least the outboard section of it and then removal of the tripod bearing by gentle persuasion with a large hammer and a drift. Of course, the circlip at the inner end of the shaft pinged off and has slipped through a wormhole into another dimension of space and reality so during the rebuild process I opted to weld the area closed where the clip had been acting to lock the tripod in place. While refitting the driveshaft,securing the new bolt,new trackrod end bolts,new split pins for the track rod and hub nut I cleaned out all the rusty matter that adheres to the area around the ABS sensor rather like rusticles on the Titanic.Some very gentle, incredible careful attention with a really small file to clear off all the collected debris. Also before sliding the splined end back into the hub I wirebrushed and then carefully sanded the face that sits flush to the back of the hub and the toothed ABS ring.Then refitted it all to the specified torque setting etc. What I hadn't bargained with was leaving one of the rear doors ajar and draining ever last volt out of my battery. Well actually that's an exaggeration,it had a full 1.98V last night lol. Anyway, fully rebuilt. Wheelarch liner and lower engine covers all securely bolted down and once more on her wheels I got a jump start about an hour ago. She burst straight into life as I knew she would and that's when I noticed that the ABS light behaved exactly as it should do, going put within several seconds of the engine firing. Have tried starting it again after leaving it for 10-15 mins a couple od times since and it's still behaving itself. Seems the warning light problem has disappeared as suddenly as it occurred in the first place. Here's hoping the retest is in the morning :)
  6. Reading ABS fault codes.

    Tried that last night and the light just continued to flash on and off which apparently means no fault code logged assuming that flash codes are readable on the later 02 obd2 Avensis but I don't see why it wouldn't be. I looked at your previous post about fixing your own ABS and from the photos it looks identical to the system in my car. So right now it appears pretty inconclusive what the fault may be if there indeed is a fault at all., πŸ™πŸ™
  7. E12 Lowering Springs

    Have you considered coilovers instead. With my T22 Avensis I really wanted to rid it of that nose down tail up stance and sit it level but buying springs that lower it a set rate all round didn't guarantee the same stance but lower. I toyed with say 35 front the buying a set 50mm to fit two at the back but these companies rarely advertise genuine spring rates so there was no real way of knowing what there different capabilities may be. Adjustable coilovers were the only genuine way to get the capability of adjusting the front and back ride height to get the stance I wanted. In addition the overall ride quality and on road performance were transformed, the car went from feeling a little fat and vague to a stellar back road performer you just want to push harder and harder through the twistys. I've fitted lowering springs to countless cars over the years and the results can vary widely but the proper coilover set is really transformative. I know they are not cheap at all but the versatility in setting up the stance coupled with the real world on the road gains make the extra cost seem like nothing but pure common sense once fitted.
  8. Avensis mk1 fuel consumption

    Hello there, it actually depends on which version of the 1.8 mk1 Avensis you have. Well, no sorry what I mean is both versions should give a similar mpg but it will depend on which version as to. how you go about finding or sorting out any issues. My mk1 is the later 1.8 vvt-i where as the version Konrad had was the one with the 1.8 7A-FE engine. I use mine daily getting back and forward to work which combined is 40 miles with at least 30 miles of that being on A roads and dual carriageway and the rest in the city. Over the last year I was getting around 37mpg overall until I tried to cure it's constant emmisions fault for the MOT some 6 or 7 weeks ago. With first one then both front precat o2 sensors disconnected it had 0 effect on performance but my mileage increased to 40mpg and now with new sensors, a new cat and no emmisions faults I get 40-42 mpg overall. I would add I'm not particularly famous for my light, dainty right foot so if I tried to I'm sure I could get a couple more miles per gallon but I'm more than happy with hitting 40+. I have to say for once Konrad's reply isn't as instantly clear as I've come to expect though that could be my lack of understanding. I assume the vaccum switch refers to the Evaporative Emmisions Control system which is operated by a BVSV (Bi-metallic Vaccum Switching Valve) on the 7A-FE engine which is mounted on the cylinder head and a VSV (Vaccum Soleniod Valve) on the 1ZZ-FE vvt-i engine mounted on the air cleaner along with the AT sensor. The BVSV is in part mechanical relying on a temperature triggered bi-metallic spring using coolant as the trigger for switching so therefore will have a certain scope for repair or adjustment where as the VSV is operated at the whim of the ECU with much less if no scope for fixing beyond straight replacement. Obviously,check the vaccum hose on either version of the 1.8 to see if it's perished or damaged,is split anywhere or insecurely fitted. Certainly you were right to expect a return of 37-40 mpg and higher on mostly long runs. I was getting nearly 48 mpg on a long run till I hit Edinburgh which the proceeded to slay that figure in As for how the car performs, judging acceleration is quite subjective really. The 1.8 Avensis isn't a high performer but both versions should pick up nicely. The 7A does produce good low down torque but so does the 1ZZ the difference being the 1ZZ-FE really picks up noticeably better over 4000 rpm and above down mostly to the variable valve timing (or variable valve overlap in fact) but either way it should have a strong pulling engine at least if not exactly sporting. The fact it nearly failed the emmisions test in the last before previous MOT is intriguing.It would need to be significantly overfilled with oil to be the cause but if it's result in the last test were better than the one before then it would suggest the cause was down to something else rather than engine condition like spark plugs,filter, even a vaccum leak.i.e something adjustable or replaceable because something like piston rings would only deteriorate more between tests and the result in the emmisions would have been even worse. As Konrad suggested check the Vaccum Switch and all the hose connections between it and the manifold but also I'd strongly suggest checking the Crankcase Breather/Ventilation System in particular aswell because the blow by gases are piped into the inlet manifold/throttle body aswell so allowing another point for excess air to be drawn into the intake making your engine run leaner. You mentioned new plugs and filter but have you tried replacing the HT leads at all.It will matter greatly here which engine you have as the 7A has normal HT leads where as the 1ZZ uses seperate coil packs per cylinder which can be prohibitively expensive to replace if you aren't sufficiently sure they are at fault. It's surprising, or I have found it so over the years what problems an old or faulty set of HT leads will cause and the difference replacing them makes.It's so often overlooked by many people for some strange reason as well. It could be drawing in air in a number of different places around the engine,around the inlet manifold,any number of vaccum hoses,throttle body,idle stepper control valve amonsgt others but wherever it's getting in it'll lean out the mixture which will, paradoxically you may, think cause an increase in fuel consumption. One cheap and easy way to check is with the engine idling spray a little ether around the areas of the inlet manifold, throttle body etc, etc. If there is a leak then the ether will be drawn in and cause the rpm to suddenly increase. You can buy a tin of ether at Halfords cheaply it'll be called Easy Start or something similar. Also pulling EFi fuse or disconnecting the battery for a few hours will reset the ECUs settings back to stock allowing it to relearn from your present sensors output. Also, the areas in the Haynes manual would be the section on Emmisions Control...... Chapter 4B.
  9. Reading ABS fault codes.

    Thanks Konrad,I'd expected or hoped at least you'd have some advice on this matter. No,I've not tried it but that's what I suspected would be possible but didn't know which terminals to bridge or whether it was the main OBDII port of whether there's a specific DLC for the ABS somewhere else in the car. Anyway I'll be trying that tomorrow. What I'm hoping and have some reason to hope for is that the day before the test I had a sticky rear caliper so wirebrushed all around the handbrake mechanism,soaked it in WD40 except near the disc and pads obviously,used a hammer to gently knock the caliper and encourage it to loosen plus working the handbrake on and off many times to again work it loose - which altogether worked a treat but as it was the next morning when the warning light came on it seems possible I might have done something to effect that wheel sensor. I'll post the results when I get some :)
  10. How To Use 4Wd?

    Hello,thought I'd reply to your questions seeing as no one else has tried to help although as I don't like either automatics or 4WDs I may not seem like the one to try to help. Ah well, we'll see. Ok,it's a full time 4WD which means it will have a centre differential unlike selectable 'part time' 4WD. P,R,N,D,2,L : Park - for when you're leaving the vehicle. R - Reverse gear, N - Neutral for sitting in ques of traffic or at junctions (I imagine), D - Drive for standard driving, 2 - Drive 2 I think it uses two gears instead of the normal amount or perhaps it's more for economy driving, L - Low Range As in geared for more acceleration or possibly for towing trailers or caravans though that's a guess I'm afraid. H,HL,N,LL - I'm guessing this stand for High, High Locked, Normal,Neutral?, Low Locked. Locked most likely refering to your centre diff which is often an option on full time 4WD vehicles that are designed to be capable Off Roaders. Your mechanic is right to a certain degree but as you said it's a full time 4WD so you have no option but to always drive in 4WD. When he says not to try 4WD on the pavement road he must be referring to the HL and LL settings when the diff is locked.Driving on road with the centre diff locked is a BAD, BAD idea. Full time 4WD cars can drive on the road specifically because they have that centre differential which allows the front and back wheels to turn at different speeds.This is required for everyday driving and cornering at typical road speeds. It's also why when cars have part time selectable 4WD they should not be driven on road in 4WD because they don't have a centre diff. The centre diff allows that difference in the turning speeds between the front and back wheels. Without it the fact that both axles are turning at the same fixed speed means that there will be extra stress and axle wind up during normal driving conditions like cornering and turning at speed. When off road however the centre diff lock is of much greater advantage. HL would be best used while driving on snowy,icy,muddy or loose gravelly surfaces where you would be off road driving at higher speeds. LL for steep gradients,over rocky or rough surfaces where you're typically driving at much reduced speeds.When in Low Range there is greater torque delivered to the wheels but increased torque doesn't mean increased traction in fact on loose, slippery, icy, snowy and muddy surfaces greater torque will normally greatly increase the loss of traction. Low Range is ideal for towing heavy loads or like I suggested on very rough off road surfaces i.e rocky,uneven or steep tracks. Using HL on road will promote wheel spin and not advisable. Using N or LL probably has some failsafe in built designed so if you try to use it on road it automatically stops the drive going to the wheels and causing damage. The N setting I'm unsure what it means Normal, Neutral?? As for the warning light A/T P it's simply letting you know it is in Park - Automatic Transmission Park. i.e you need to engage D, D2, L. Anyway, I hope this helps a little. I found this website quite interesting and with some useful articles.
  11. The Future Of Our Diesels

    BTW, thanks for liking my previous post Yossarian247. No joke, earlier on this afternoon I was having one of those raking ny brains 'tip of the tongue' moments as I was unable to recall the thing that had momentarily slipped my mind. I was trying harder n harder because it was something that normally I knew as well as I know almost anything else, like the capital of France or something and I just could not believe I couldn't bring it to mind but the harder you reach out to grab that name or word the further you just push it away. The name of the main character from Catch 22. .......... something aryan, akarian, aghhhhh f**k what is it, I know this how can I possibly not remember !!!!!!!! So again, thank you πŸ˜†πŸ˜†πŸ˜†πŸ˜†
  12. The Future Of Our Diesels

    I'm not remotely qualified to opine on the taxi trade as I use a taxi about once a decade πŸ˜†πŸ˜† I've noticed several buses with signs emblazoned on their rumps stating that this particular moving obstruction is powered by electricity. Whether that means it has a fully electric engine,some form of hybrid engine or they're simply referring to the interior lights (obviously not lol) I really don't know;for some reason I've never been intrigued enough to actually find out but the implication from the way it is worded is fully electric. Where I feel both qualified and experienced enough to stick my oar in is on the subject of road haulage and the delivery trade.I am at this point anyway fully convinved that there is no practical alternative power plant other than diesel engines for larger trucks and probably heavy construction plant. I can't remotely imagine a petrol engined motor that has the solid low down torque characteristics or durability to haul 26 tons of vehicle and load up the Berridale Braes or the many, many slow tortuous gradients that me and many and my fellow truck drivers of the Highlands have to contend with daily. There are no doubt many other similar horrible roads to taclke in the UK..... north and west Wales,NW England and the Peak District spring to mind and must surely present similar trials for the national trucking fleet. Petrol engines haven't got the natural torque delivery where it's actually needed to be a viable option but also the fact that diesels are a compression ignition internal combustion engine as opposed to spark therefore having at least doube or 2.5 times the compression ratio of a petrol engine means they're much more heavily constructed than the equivalent capacity petrol engine. The simple fact of a having 25:1 compression ratio requires a stronger and heavier bottom end than a 10:1 petrol motor if for no other reason than being able to withstand the increased internal pressures of compression ignition. Add to this the heavier pistons require stronger conrods which then means a more solid crank,gudgeon pins,bigs end caps,main bearing caps, flywheel and so on and so on and.......... One of the benefits of all that heavier increased mass rotating (reciprocating, if you prefer) beyond being the fundamental requirement of that type of engine is once it's in motion after overcoming it's initial inertia is greater torque and lower engine speeds most notably because the higher cylinder pressures and heavier crank,rods and pistons need a heavier flywheel to smooth out the cylinder pulses and keep under control all that rotating steel...remember inertia doesn’t just need to be overcome when a mass is at rest but also once it's motion,any change made to that motion i.e velocity, acceleration and direction mean there's an inertial effect to contend with (although direction isn't relevant here obviously). One of the traditional ways to improve your, typically,petrol engine's responsiveness and ability to rev higher is to lighten and balance the pistons,rods and crank. One of the compromises you have to consider when it comes to how much you lighten them by.Anyone with any experience of engine modification knows it's all about compromises,the balancing of gains in one area againsts the losses in another.The lightening of the pistons to crank but even more so the flywheel is a loss of lower speed torque but also smoothness at lower engine speeds.Take off too much mass and it can become dangerously unstable low down.The flywheel is a very necessary component that's there primarily to balance and control the rotation of the engine internals.Even if an engine was built with no intention of being fitted with in a car or to drive some form of transmission in would still require a flywheel despite no need for a clutch. Anyway,before I went off on that whole preamble about lightening flywheels and freestanding engines without a clutch the point was that diesel engines with their high compression ratio,greater cylinder pressures that need heavier built engine internals and a heavy flywheel make them incredibly suitable for large heavy vehicles that have to haul massive weight up and down the roads of this world. A bus or coach may well be able to move within the city with a full load of passengers powered by an electric motor but that's very different to moving heavy loads in the city, the motorways or narrow country and mountainous roads. Of course,I may actually be talking entirely out of my rear and writing this entire post was therefore a monumental total waste of words and server space because I've never actually looked with any depth into the range or performance characteristics inherent in electric motors or for that matter the weight of a loaded bus * I know in terms of just width and length a typical city bus is roughly similar to a normal 18 tonner.A normal 18 tonner with a standard body/tail lift is generally around 10 tons fully fuelled but empty. Is a bus/coach similar in weight when empty?? I'd assume they're not too disimilar, maybe the bus would slightly lighter not requiring the heavy chassis/frame of a truck that is designed to transport heavy loads but with perhap up to 40 people on board (something in the back of my mind suggests 40 is the most a single decker can take....... although I've a nagging idea it may really be 25 and 40 people for double deckers 😩😩) anyway the combined weight of, Americans aside who regularly average a quarter of a ton before breakfast lol, 40 Europeans doesn't often come to 10 tons. Altogether, in today's world and the neat future I cannot imagine there being any practical alternative to the diesel to power the typical 7.5+ ton trucks that haul most of the wieght transported on our roads. Not exclusively but typically the deliveries made between the large transport hubs and the main depots throughout the towns and cities are by artics and large rigids like I drive (18 to 26 tonners) and from there between other towns and to end users and customers by sometimes large truck 18s-26s but more usually 7.5 tonners and vans (3.5 to 5t). I know everyone can point out that's crap becomes I've seen artics in the heart of wherever you live and that's true (different trades and companies will create many exception for sure) but overall the large bulk of loads transported by road are done in the fashion I've laid out with the biggest trucks hauling between the cities and the smaller trucks and vans from there to the ultimate destinations. What I’m getting at it there is definitely scope for vehicles to be introduced with hybrid or electric engines to do the work of the 7.5s and van within cities and towns but even then these alternatives have to contend with the sheer workhorse reliability of the diesel and be proven to match it before you'd find them being a choice for city/urban road haulage work. I'm sure there would be what initially seems like a huge interest at first.The thing is of the vans on the road there's a large portion that aren't out there specifically transporting loads all day long.There's many,many tradesman,businesses and even service sector companies that own and use vans but they aren't running then around fully loaded all day long. (we have 2 3.5 ton vans that can be loaded to capacity out delivering then back to reload 5 or 6 times a day...... that's before we get into the 26 tonner and 2 18 tonners plus the new 7.5 which we're expecting any day now, no wonder I'm hitting my 60 hour a week limit weekly πŸ™πŸ™). All those non-transportation businesses and self employed tradesman who aren't running their vans at full load all day everyday I could easily see being tempted away from diesel quite easily especially with some tantalising government tax rebates to do so and even that alone would make a noticeable difference in time to the pollution within the cities but I can't see companies like mine that shift easily 100 tons of stock in all directions every day so easily switching away from diesels at first. Again the simplicity, practicality and sheer bombproof reliability of diesel engined vehicles are unmatched at this present time besides they are year on year becoming cleaner. Things like AdBlue and DPF are improving them all the time.Even as recently as 5 years ago DPF equipped trucks were in many cases questionable if not downright unreliable to the point there were services springing up specifically to remove the DPF system while keeping the vehicle road legal. I can think remember an Isuzu 7.5 tonner I regularly had to use that had all kinds of issues with it's DPF system.As it turned out there were some simple additional steps you had to follow that mitigated the problems, the biggest being when the engine was performing a normal regeneration cycle NEVER,NEVER,NEVER switch the engine off til it's completed it' s regen even if you're outside the customer's premises.There would be no obvious problems if you did but when the driver came back off his 2 week holiday after the covering driver has been switching off with no regard to it's regen cycle the poor b*****d finds himself in Peterhead or Aberdeen at 8pm with a truck in hyper limp home mode only able to do 25mph and a 120 mile drive home in front of him😠😠😠. Nowadays though DPF is incredibly reliable and AdBlue is the same. Actually, I've never thought about it but do taxi's run extra emmisions systems like AdBlue and DPF the same as trucks do??? I've heard of AdBlue being used in some modern diesel cars but it doesn’t sound like it's used the same as what we use in trucks.We have to top up the Adblue regularly, I'd say approx 10 litres of AdBlue last for 2 or 3 tanks of diesel and I've not seen anyone having to add that kind of levels to their car or anyone actually adding AdBlue to a car at all. Anyway, I fully understand taxi drivers being sceptical or even reluctant to consider the change away from diesel engines,even just to petrol. When I said I'd never and nevet have entertained the idea of diesel engines in cars it's because I spend my working day driving diesels.When I get in my car I love the way it delivers it's power, it's what I've always known and for the way I drive it has to be a petrol engine.I've driven plenty of diesel cars over the years and some are so much better than others but very few truly match the same car with a petrol engine.Again,that's in terms of my own preference,I know fine there are plenty of people who think exactly the opposite and I get that. Of course hydrogen powered engines would be the best alternative.I don't mean hydrogen celled electric/hybrids but internal combustion engines that used hydrogen instead of petrol. It's burn characteristics are actually very similar to petrol.It's explosive nature makes it seem highly dangerous as a fuel but we've happily coped with petrol for over a century which isn't exactly known for being hard to ignite. It wouldnt require any huge technological leap to make a car with a tank of hydrogen onboard safe, like i say there's a tankful of petrol in my car which isn't in imminent danger of exploding any time soon. Fitting Nitrous to your car is also a pretty safe and a well understood practice.All the kit and knowledge that's required for that could be utilised for hydrogen instead. Also the main emmisions by product of a hydrogen fuelled car would be water,obviously some minor contaminants may be produced if the engine burnt oil but an engine in good shape would give off water. It would need to draw in from the atmosphere outside as the volume of pure hydrogen filling each cylinder if you didn't would require having a gas balloon on your roof like Cpl Jones van from Dad's Army lol just to drive to the shop lol. So there are going to be other by products as well as water simply because air is only around 21% oxygen if I remember right, 70% odd nitrogen and various other gases but there wouldn't be any carbon to give off CO, CO2 or particulates either. The biggest drawback is producing hydrogen on a large enough scale and cheaply enough to be viable which is incredible and slightly ironic seing as it's by far the most common and the oldest element in the universe but it's nuclear makes up, i.e one single electron, make it an element that combines very easily with all sorts of other elements to form compounds which is the way it by far and away most commonly appears on earth but diesel and petrol aren't found naturally but have to go through a process of refining from crude. The present infrastructure at petrol stations across the country wouldn't need major rebuilding to convert them to hydrogen stations. All cars have and have had evaporative emmisions systems to stop any petrol vapours from leaking even when filling the tank. Possibly it would be necessary to pressurise the tank to avoid the hydrogen exploding in the event of an accident but there's no need to invent new technology or science to make it safe for public use at all so it's an incredible shame and a huge missed opportunity that no one on a government level has ever persued it as a feasible alternative. Electricity and hybrid power may be greener at the tailpipe but their carbon footprint is a lot less attractive when the extra constuction processes are taken into account. The costs are born at the power stations producing the electricity that charges their batteries instead of out the exhaust pipe. Hybrids the use of lithium in their construction which is in a very finite supply on this planet so that may not be a practical resource for very long. Mind you,in 50 years maximum the car as we know it and car/vehicle ownership in general will be be fading into old history anyway. The rise of the autonomous vehicle and the increasing complexity and cost of new vehicles will change the car as we know it. Car leasing as opposed to private ownership will become the way most people will 'own' cars in future.Their compexity will mean that people will know less and less about how their car works with the bonnet only being opened during servicing. The time will come soon when you won't do anything but fuel the vehicle, you won't own it the dealership or lease company will. You won't be allowed,even legally possibly to touch anything to do with how it works. Like most of our technology these days it will be only highly trained specialists who understand how it works or how to. fix it. Fine you may say but when our entire world and so much of our lives are becoming so dependent on technology and is only going to become more so it seems to me asking for trouble to sign over almost exclusively the understanding and control of all that vital technology to someone else or to companies. I suspect we'll look back on the days when you could tinker with your old Cortina, do it up with odds n sods from Halfords and fix it with parts from the scrapyard with genuine fondness not to say longing. Damn, what am I saying I already do 😀😀😀
  13. Reading ABS fault codes.

    Hey folks,failed. my MOT. Tyres, CV boots, seatbelt etc and the ABS warning light coming on. I've got an 2002 1.8 vvt-i and am wondering if it's possible to read any ABS fault codes that may well be logged manually as such. It's not integrated through my OBD2 diagnosis system like on many later cars and I'm aware that on some earlier Toyotas it was possible to jump the terminals on the ABS connector to read the stored faults as flash codes similar. to emmisions faults in mid 90s pre OBDII cars. Does anyone know if that's possible on a 2002 Avensis and if so where the ABS diagnostic terminal would be,the contacts that may need bridged or any other relevant information :) Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  14. The Future Of Our Diesels

    It's great...... now I can finally feel smug as hell for religiously remaining faithful to petrol engines and my total refusal to entertain a diesel engine in my car 😁😁😁😁 I tell you what annoys me is the amount of half decent second hand cars that went to the crusher because of the government's scrappage scheme when they wanted people to buy diesel. I can't help wondering how many solid Cavaliers or Sierras for example were blythely crushed with the governments encouragement. I've been looking for a good Cav or Sierra Sapphire for ages and there not anywhere near as plentiful as once they were. As for the government with their carrots and sticks, their department of 'nudges ' attempting to direct the publics attitude in the direction they decide we should be thinking about this entire diesel business demonstrates the obvious point that the executive/elected branch of government think short term despite the fact we all know that is the one proven way not to approach societal problems. Whether with good intent or not they are incapable of distancing their policies from the 4 or 5 year general election cycle so basically they should stay the f**k out of our lives more than absolutely necessary and should not in any way try to direct the public consciousness with it's pseudo psychological games or by the good old fashioned tax reducing incentives. The diesel U turn just demonstrates perfectly that they can't or are incapable of fully researching in depth the behavioura they want to promote. Either way they aren't qualified to make these judgements clearly,nobody should be at all surprised by that 😁😁 Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  15. P0430

    But yeah ever the 1ZZ-FEs unofficial defence council I bet there are quite a few motors condemned for burning oil when they weren't burning any at all but they fit the pattern that everyone is primed and expecting to see...... lazy thinking, cognitive bias or maybe if I got down from my horse and admit that it was half things not adding up but also half chance that I saw what was going on with my own car because I experienced that sinking feeling in the stomach when it started going through oil. I'd read all about it, reaearched the oil problem thoroughly and lapped it all up so I was actively keeping an eye out for the signs. Lo and behold the signs began to appear,the ticking timebomb was now set to go off and the thing I dreaded enough to consciously keep looking for the initial symptoms of had appeared like the perfect self fulfilling prophecy of doom. Oil disappearing on the vvt-i is prediagnosed long before it actually ever happens I've no doubt that plenty have gone to the crusher unfairly and even Toyota dealers replaced blocks under warranty they didn't really need to because it's easier, especially in a busy high tech workshop to just get the job done then bother to probe too deeply into other causes. Probably not to begin with but once but once the narrative has been established then the desire to go looking for all other causes first may well have evaporated over time. Also the more they replaced the short block the easier it becomes to do another.It could lose any sense of being a big, dramatic operation and start to become commonplace possibly also contributing to dealers just wanting to get the car in, sorted and back to the customer asap. Every car that was scrapped or had it's bottom end replaced was another piece of proof that this oil business really was a solid gold concrete fact about these engines adding more weight through numbers effrcted to the increasing size and scale of the problem. I humbly submit m'lud that while there is no doubt a basis of truth in the infamous oil furore there's is possibly as much as an equal amount of 'giving a dog a bad name' at play here too. It would be interesting to actually get hold of some reputable and reliable numbers of how many 1ZZ-FEs actually were replaced, reported to have the problem against the possible number of actual engines sold n out there and the estimated number of cars with 1.6/1.8 vvt-i engine that never flagged up at all 😯😯 Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk