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fastbob72

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fastbob72 last won the day on December 25 2019

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About fastbob72

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    bob
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    Avensis 5dr vermont 1.8 vvti plus 2001,Celica vvt-i 190 temporarily
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    2002
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  1. The Yaris passed it's MOT but I wouldn't quite describe it as being done with flying colours or in a triumphant manner.

    Scraped through,barely limped over the line with no skin left on the teeth but a win is a win all the same lol

  2. I highly doubt they'll be interchangeable. I've had, got 2002 T22 Avensis and bought a 2001 Celica VVTL-i to break for the engine, box and electrics. The suspension was different too the Avensis which I had already fitted coilovers too. The Celica looked to be generally older and less compotent than the Avensis and despite having OEM Toyota 17 inch alloys aswell as uprated springs never mind the fact it is designed to be a sports car if I had to choose between the Celica on low profiles and performance springs or my Avensis with it's coilovers and factory 15 inch alloys with 195/60 rubber all round to blast hard into a tight country road corner like the ones I use for half my driving just as a huge bloody stag jumped into my path. I'd want to be behind the wheel of the Avensis as the coilovers once dialled in fully complemented that car making it infinitely controllable in a way you just would never believe an Avensis capable of after driving a typical model, even the SR. I'm not criticising the Celica although I imagine there will be many out there who think I'm talking out of one of my less visible orifices lol but I'm not nor was that particular Celica badly modified or the springs totally wrong for the car. It handled well, quite nicely in fact that's for sure but I've been modifying cars like Cavaliers Escorts Sierras and now T22s for many years now i.e setting out to greatly improve normal types of cars as opposed to sports cars already designed to drive and handle well. I also spent a lot of time in setting up and dialling in the overall suspension system and alignment step by step changing one setting at a time and seeing how it improved or made the whole car handles worse over perhaps 1000 miles at least before working out what to adjust next. It took me 2 years to get it just how I wanted, afterall I work 50 to 60 hourd a week most the year so don't always have the energy to fiddle with my settings night after night lol. In other words, in my opinion, you'd be far better off getting the coilovers meant for your car as they will be far better in ever way than adapting coilovers from a Celica onto an Avensis. The only thing I did use were Celica rear drop links as the ones for the Avensis were twice the length of the whatwas needed once the car was lowered. Running standard links meant my rear antiroll bar was under a heavy amount of torsion when the car was just sitting still. The distance from the rollbar to the mounts on the coilovers had been reduced by half at least so the only way I could fit them as I only had new but standard rear links initially was to use my 4 foot breaking bar on the end of the rollbar and pushing down with all my strength with my foot to push the bar down away from it's normal parked loading position to a point where it was under the most tension I could force upon it just to make the link fit. Obviously that had a negative effect on the handling at the rear but it only became noticable right on the limit when it became somewhat unpredictable, not good - not good at all. I looked under the back of the Celica and saw the links were almost half the length so I bought a pair from ebay. Fitted them which instantly returned the rollbar to it's natural position and the effect was dramatic and instant. So there's no 100% right and 100% wrong way when it comes to modifying especially the likes of suspension, wheels, tyres and brakes but as a general 99% relevent rule of thumb go with the uprated kit for your car unless you truly know both the Avensis and Celica very ,very well aswell as having an indepth knowledge of suspension systems and how they work. You could adapt the Celica set up but unless there was a huge upgrade in the 7th gen Celica between 2001 and 2004 (which there may well have been but without fact checking I'd assume they both had a similar set up throughout the mark 7s lifetime. The 2001 looked old school even crude next to the T22 so compared to the 2004 T25 I would imagine the difference is even more stark. It works for the Celica but it would be a downgrade if the same set up was fitted to an Avensis. Even the brakes looked out of date on the Celica when compared to my Avensis which was less than 12 months newer. I know this is a long reply and probably long past the point where the reply mattered anymore, I hope not though and I hope my opinion and my own experience at least gives you something to think about before you decide which way to go. Personally, I tend to make my own mind up and then try to think my way through all the potential benifits and compromises that may be involved because with every and all modifications you gain in some area but loose in another. In my case it restricted me to an absolute crawl goimg over anything but the slightest speed bumps or humps in the road. I mean right down to 5mph or less just so I didn't take my floor or the bottom of my sills or front wings off the hump or the road once I cleared the obstacle. Also I often found I had to use the original hand cranked scissors jack to lift it enough so I could get my trolley jack under it whenever I had to remove a wheel whereas a flat front tyre became a nasty challenge as the jacking point would be closer to the ground then even the manual jack would go below. I'd have to lift the back end to gain a little front end clearance to get the hand jack in to lift it enough for the trolley jack. Believe me that gets very old fast. Also until my tracking and alignment was just right and the fact the OE steering angles and castor where all right out of whack so the stated settings didn't suit it anymore. Until I dialled that in by trial and error it ate tyres at a rate you would not credit. It steered, gripped and most importantly handled unlike your typical 5 door family car could normally managed. As I said, if I had to take sudden avoiding action and then recover it right on a hard corner with the car near it's limit I would choose my T22 once it was finely and finally set up over the Celica every time which ebven now surprises and amuses me as I'd have thought no modification could have such a dramatic difference changing a staid yet compotent, safe car into a dynamic and precise handler but it shows that the actual basis from which the shell is created from and overall design the Avensis in general is a very good one that makes both a highly dependable, safe family transport you can believe in but like some other standard every day family cars like the Sierra or Cavalier it has the potential to be so much more if you wish to try and make something more with it. The only thing that works against the Avensis is the general look and style along with the typical perception of the car both in the public and in the motoring press. Very few people look at it and think there's the base for a very interesting and different car there that will make a few people double take or stare in disbelief at an Avensis doing more than the family shopping run or the mini cab duties it's become associated with. Have fun modifying that T25 😉
  3. Oh and btw, it has that long desired SR grille and a rather cool rear spoiler like I've never really noticed on any Avensis before. I've seen the SR boot spoiler on numerous T22s although it never appealed to me in the way the SR grille does but the one it has which is a genuine Toyota part must have been an option on the CDX that most buyers didn't choose. I think it looks great despite the badly peeling laquer and badly faded colour where the laquer has come off. Some plastic primer, a couple of rattle cans of base coat and clear laquer will bring that back to a near as possible factory finish if I take my time and do it right. Due to my experience at using Halfords paint for repairs and modifications I figured painting a guitar body black would be simple when I put a partscaster together last year.

     

    Oh I was so wrong about that that paimting a plastic spoiler sill be total childs play compared to painting a  natural unfinished wooden Stratocaster body, complete child's play if not even easier 😉😉

     

  4. The first 2 pics are the one I did not buy and the following three are the one I did. I won't be offended if on seeing these anyone says I'm a fool for the choice I made but there was just something about the look inside those arches of the first car that didn't sit well with me although I admit it does look nicer overall than the one I bought. Especially when what you don't see here is the cracked and lifting layer of laquer on the rear spolier or the minute dents and tiny creases like on the passenger side A pillar, not enough to have any effect on the strength or rigidity of the shell thank F lol. Anyway, that's my new T22 and now my 3rd successive mark 1 Avensis. Even my oldest mates ask me why after a lifetime of Fords and Vauxhalls am I so into these Toyota Avenses (is that the plural or just simply Avensis's lol, it's a little like is it bigfoots or bigfeet though like sheep the plural must be bigfoot whether singular or plural. That doesn't sound right with multiple Toyota Avensis's 😝👌). I can't rightly answer that question myself let alone explain it to bikers and wannabe car heads so it just is what it is. I've never been one to take advice or the sensible path and it looks like that's never going to change, at least I admit I'm a bloody minded idiot and my mistakes are all my verh own 😊😊😊 Here's the photos
  5. My old girl is destined for the abattoir for sure so being fed up with the wee Yaris I checked out Autotrader at the back end of August just passed. I had a week off but was at a loose end because I could no longer fool myself that the Avensis was repairable by me. The corrosion had gone through the outer and inner sill on the driver side all the way to where the trailing arm mounting sits on that side. I could weld the inner and outer successfully but the whole area surrounding the rear arm mounting point whilst ensuring the suspension geometry was exactly as it should be was a stretch. Anyway, just for the sake of making myself feel better more than anything else I looked online to see if any good T22s were for sale. I wasn't so surprised to find several tired, high milers for less than a grand as well as some better ones between 1200 to the 1800 quid range. I was absolutely delighted the 2 nicest were CDXs that were NOT silver. All the silver ones were auto which I just would even consider. I drive automatic diesels most days so no automatics or diesels for me. I was about to write no oil burners then realised I'm still running a ZZ engine so the irony isn't lost 😊😊 Anyway two candidates were left both 2002 1ZZ vvt-is and CDX models with leather interiors. One a mossy green colour tje other a darker brownish grey in the photos. One Birmingham, one Bradford so a good 350 to 450 mile one way trip. The Bradford one was cheaper, looked pristine in the multitude of photos, nearly 100 I believe. Under the bonnet it looked even cleaner, medical facility level clean and I’m not talking NHS here 🙂 In every way it was the better choice yet it was to Brum I departed. I clocked some rusty patches, well colouration truthfully in the rear arches wnen zooming in although the resolution wasn't good enough to see exactly what was going on but my beloved T22 of the past however many years has just been laid low by rusty rear arches and the rest. Am not going down that path again so soon. The one I bought is more a well kept survivor rather than the show stopper the other appeared to be on the surface. I may well have made the wrong choice based on what looks like corrosion within the rear arches in a couple of zoomed in low res photos but I figured if the car I chose turned out to be a total lemon I'd just hop on a Megabus back north via Bradford. If nothing else I'd have been back homewards i.e England and the south for a few days instead of counting off each day at home until I had to go back to work. As, it happens the car was nice enough to make an offer on although the friday of the august bank holiday was the worst bloody time possible to hit the M6 north. I left around 11ish and had got as far as Lancaster after 7 damn hours. I thought I'd seen more caravan and campers locking up the road network, such as it is over the West Coast this summer, never before have tbe sheer volume of tourists hit the Western edge of the Highlands in such a mass as we've seen this year. To the point they've been turned away from everh possible campsite in the region, every layby, dirt track, opening for a gate into a field, every forrestry commision track and many passing places have been crammed with campers since the middle of may. The police had to move on tourist who were just parking up wherever they thought they could get away with, maybe the country is going to the dogs at the moment but business owners on tne West Coast have been coining it in beyond their wildest dreams this summer 🙂 Anyway, I hit the caravan and mobile home exodus at it's savage peak during that drive. I even got the point where I decided that thd next services I saw I'd pull in, park up and wait out the insane traffic until I saw the que into the services all the way down the slip road to the motorway itself. I spent the first 200 odd miles lucky to hit 25 mph or get past 3rd gear yet the new T22 didn’t miss a beat or put a wheel wrong. Then after 4 weeks or so now I had tnis flashing checklight and a P0300 or a P0303 fault code appear. I'm in the process of investigating the issue now,. In fact, I just stopped prior to typing this for some cheese on toast and a mug of teaso thought hey I'll check out the forum and see if anyone else has had this happen etc, etc. That's what brought me to this post. Unfortunately, my battery is in fine health, there is no fuel smell or the like and rather worryingly 1,2 and 4 plug seem very white to me more so than I'd expect but plug 3 is black, oily and carbon deposits are actually built up between the tip and electrode. Next thing to test iswhether that's a symptom or part of the problem because living 30 plus miles from work I had to drive the car as it missed and spluttered its way home which would not have made the situation any better. I need to dig out my compression tester and hopefully rule out any valve, ring or cylinder issues. That's the crux ultimately. Worst comes to worst I've got an engine lift and my old 200,000 mile plus motor in the drive. Yes that's high but in the 6 or 7 years I ran that car daily it never missed a beat nor threw up a fault code except due to the dodgy wiring to the rear O2 sensor. Any motor that can top 200,000 miles,start straight away day in and day out and pass the emissions test each MOT with flyimg colours is a solid strong motor that's proven it's worth whilst the newcomer haz reached that tricky 130,000 mile mark where it's hard to tell right now whether it's got what it takes to go the distance or is it downhill from here on. If it is then I have a replacement engine on hand. In fact the coil packs and plugs, PCV valve and possibly rocker cover from the old girl are going on it later, possibly the injectors too. It's never simple is it lol. Well, it would have been if I kept pottering about in the Yaris rather than going out to find a replacement T22 so I've only mysrlf to blame..... as per bloody usual 😉😉
  6. Looking at my topic title the phrase "....and various body parts" has a rather dark tone but I'm looking for some replacement parts for my 2002 1.8 vvt-i (facelifted) Avensis. I really wish to find an SR mesh grille preferably in silver which seems to describe 90% of T22 Avensis (would the plural be Avensi or Avenses?) although I've seen few silver SRs either way the colour isn't particularly a problem as I'd repaint it to match. Also I'm interested in a 2000-2003 T22 front bumper and wings (definitely silver would be preferable),the rear hatch lock surround - the plastic piece that fits above the number plate,I'm not even sure what it's called but mine snapped off and I've struggled to find a replacement as of yet. Lastly,a rear subframe i.e the main frame member that bolts to the rear chassis rails and locates the 4 suspension arms,as I've used mine as the main jacking point for the rear end of the car it's become deformed and mildly rusted so a decent replacement is if not essential certainly desireable. In fact if anyone out there is breaking a 2000-2003 SR then that would be ideal. Even someone with a 2000 onwards hatchback T22 of any model except a diesel or automatic then message me as I've taken my own T22 temporarily off the road to give it something of a mini restoration-ish so there's probably all kinds of parts I can't think of off the top of my head that I don't actually NEED for the car but would be definitely be interested in. Cheers FB
  7. Thanks,I pretty much assumed the button was more about a potential DAB upgrade rather than being standard ,which is a shame as I miss having the digital radio which I'd fitted in my T22 but then again it has the AUX input which means I can listen to Audible or Spotify whatever by p.lugging my mobile in so it works out in the end anyway 🙂 Is the DAB module easy to get hold of still and worth fitting ?
  8. Also my stereo has a button for selecting either AM or DAB yet there is no sign of anything remotely like digital radio.I'm assuming there simply isn't but does that mean it has the capability to be added or upgraded ?
  9. Missing my beloved Avensis,the drive to work or anywhere just is not the same but some lower level pain now is required for the overall greater good and the return of the Avensis better than ever before 🙂

     

  10. I have somewhat of a grave confession to make.To stand up and say the words out loud in front of an audience to lance the ugly truth. My beloved Avensis,the T22 ran out of MOT jan the 31st and I now drive a 59 plate Yaris 1.33 vvt-i. My head hangs with shame.Yet it shouldn't as although it wasn't planned this way it's going to work out for the best.The T22 is in my driveway,up on ramps and stands with her interior removed and me inspecting every inch of the underneath for the dread signs of rust,which will be eliminated and solid metal welded in it's place. Knowing the test was due I had intended,even booked it in for the test but the weather up my way between snow from christmas until the past week,ice and even temperatures hitting -15 at one point 'I couldn't even get the car down to my house for fear I'd be unable to get back up the gradient of the semi tarmac,semi hardcored track from my driveway to the lane at the top if it snowed overnight which it did regularly from xmas till the end of january. Unable to get my car down I certainly couldn't begin prepping it for the test so when this little bugeyed thing came up for reasonable money with a years tickets and 30 quid a year for tax it seemed to make a kind of sense,though seriously reluctant sense.Parking up the T22 was like saying goodbye to your faithful dog during that last terrible trip to the vet but that isn't the plan nor never was.The Yaris though capable and all that is no replacement for my Avensis,not even close but it gives me the space and time to turn my full attention on the T22 without being compelled to get it back on the road yesterday which has always been the case until now. Back in 2018 I bought a Celica with the 2ZZ-GE motor to do a swap into my T22 but knowing this would be complex it soon became clear it would be even more than I had imagined not that the idea was dropped.The 2ZZ has been fully rebuilt,the head has been mildly flowed and ported by my good self.New cams,new lifters,modified manifold and so and so on.What became clear was the swap would take weeks rather than the days I'd initially envisioned.The two engines while almost identical on paper are ddifferent sizes.The 2ZZ is fatter which if you know what FE and GE actually mean should be that huge a surprise yet I hadn't imagined the difference would matter,the 1ZZ is slightly taller but the 2ZZ was canted back slightly with the Celicas engine bay so if mounted vertically in the T22 suddenly the 6 speed transaxle will be at slight angle to the horizontal. The exhaust on the 1ZZ drops straight down then does a 90 degree turn at floor level,the 2ZZ ex manifold comes out at around 45 degrees straight into the where the bulkhead is so some form of 'trans tunnel' will need to be cut out and fabricated whilst not losing any torsional rigidity or adding excess weight. Engine mounts will need to be fabricated and where exactly within the bay does it go.I think the easiest way would to be to use my driveshafts as a kind of datum point and position the engine and trans to line up with them .Of course,all this fabrication,changes to the cars structure will mean an engineers examination to pass the MOT so I intend to MOT it first,then do the swap and by the time it's due again all the issues and fault will have been ironed out and solved until it's genuinely ready to be deemed roadworthy. So the Yaris has been a rather unlooked for blessing although I have to admit that last sunday morning when I was about to head to work it certainly was no blessing at all.A veritable curse if you'd asked me right then. It had been fine,Toyota like reliable for the couple of weeks so far but come 9.15 am last sunday when I turned the key nothing happened.Dash light lit up like normal but turning the engine produced nothing at all,not even dimming dash lights like you'd expect.Having very little time I whipped the good battery from the Avensis placing in front of the Yaris thinking,hoping it was slightly flat and a good kick from the T22 battery would frankenstein it into life.I'd put the T22 up on stands and removed the wheels so that option was not even in the running,just the battery and some jump leads but they made no difference. Anyway,I found another way in and on returning puzzled what was the Yaris playing at. It had been fine saturday afternoon yet useless sunday morning,what had changed.All I'd done to it saturday evening was look in the boot as I was curious for no particular reason whether it had a space saver or a real spare tyre,space saver btw 😞 I'd checked the oil and took the floor mats out of the T22 and put them into the Yaris.How did any of that cause it to refuse to start. The first clue was the lack of anything at all when turning the key past ACC .You'd expect a sluggish starter if the battery was drained,a jammed starter should have dimmed the lights so it seemed like an electrical fault in the starting curcuit or the solenoid had given up but why there seemed no answer.Personally,I suspected the issue was with security system.,the remote locking key ,immobiliser or something. Scanning an online curcuit diagram of the starter system I saw there was a clutch switch,a what ? Clutch switch which upon further reading it appeared if the clutch pedal wasn't fully depressed when starting no power went to the starter. I don't know which is more bizarre,a starter with a clutch switch or the idea someone would start a manual without their foot down on the clutch,why would you start a car any other way,makes no sense to me at all. Then it struck me,it seemed ridiculous but actual possible.Were the floor mats preventing the clutch from fully closing the switch and cutting power to the starter..Surely not,how thick is a rubber floor mat 1/4 inch if that.Could that little amount of restriction under the pedal cause all this.Well,if you hadn't guessed that was exactly the problem although with or without the mat the clutch pedal felt fully pressed down whatever but with the mat removed it started first time. It's the craziest starting problem I've ever had to deal with but I sup[pose a victory for a little lateral thinking and I'll certainly not make that mistake again. Also,can anyone tell me what the gear ratios and final drive for the 6 spd 1.33 vvt-i Yaris are because I've hunted online for hours and haven't found anything I can call reliable.I believe it's a EC66 transaxle according to the plate in my passenger door jam but searching that online has drawn a blank.I bought the ebook manual from a well known online resource which I've used before many times yet the manual doesn't cover the manual gearbox,the auto yes,manual no. Any advice,answers or suggestion who to try would be extremely welcome right now .
  11. I hope my fellow forum members will allow me a little understanding and forebearance with this topic.Is it truly a guide or an opinion,am I flying the flag or banging the drum a bit? I don't think so,I have a great appreciation for these engines,for their clever design,the vvt-i in so many ways is far superior to the V-tech although I do wish it gave you the same kick in the pants when you hit 6000 but that's not what it's about nor is it trying to be.Again I hope this post/guide/opinion/ is thought reasonable enough to qualify as I truly do wish to at the very least inform those who may be contemplating that most maligned motor,the 2001-2005 1.8 vvt-i. The most infamous 1ZZ-FE. It's hardly a revelation that the later T22s,the vvt-i's in the late Y-reg to 03 reg range are often considered more of a risky second hand buy than the earlier pre mid-model facelift T22s when it comes to buying the 1.6 and 1.8 petrol engined versions.The 2.0 vvt-i was a different family of engine so wasn't cursed with the ZZ genes which plagued early 1ZZs,2ZZs and 3ZZs.Also the diesels completely sidestep this issue too so unless you're buying a 1.6 or 1.8 vvt-i then by all means read on as it may be interesting but any issues brought up here really don't effect you.Feel completely free to be quietly smug 🙂 That weakness,the infamous deadly curse to all the offspring in the ZZ family,pre 2005 is a prodigious thirst for the amber nectar. i.e 5W 30 fully synthetic motor oil.I've read posts by owners of Corollas,stateside funnily enough of burning through a quart of oil in 50-100 miles.A quart being quarter of a gallon although their puny gallons aren't quite a robust as ours so not quite the full 2 pints I imagine.Nonetheless what,say a litre or litre and half of oil in 100 miles.That is firmly in old oily CVH XR2/XR3 territory.Yes,exactly that bad !! The thing is whether you think exaggeration or suddenly start to feel a lot less keen on that 52 plate Vermont you had in mind the fact Toyota dealers were replacing short blocks on a number of customers cars strongly suggests there was a definite problem here,dealerships do not replace engines or suffer the man hours costs lightly so clearly there was and is fire behind all that blue oily smoke.That I don't think anyone would dispute. Ok,this is Toyota were talking about not Audi or Mercedes (am joking,am just not a fan of AutoUnions but I have owned one in the past,an Audi 80 Sport no less so...).How did Toyota come up with a seemingly badly envisioned lame duck like the ZZ and it's brood.Well,in actual fact it's quite a clever and innovative engine that had some weaknesses designed in,pretty glaringly obvious one with hindsight but I'm sure there's an apt expression concerning hindsight.Maybe we should include some rose tinted glasses for the designers too. Some of the less well thought out areas we can highlight all pretty much centre around the lubrication system.For one,a modern 1800 16 valve engine with only 3.6 litres of oil including the filter seems like asking for trouble but then if you add the variable valve timing/cam phaser system which maybe be triggered and controlled expertly by the ECU,it's plain old oil pressure that moves the moving parts.It does seem like a lot to ask of not exactly a lot of oil.I mean a typical 1.8 or 2.0 twin cam at the time would normally have 4.5 say.I'm thinking Vauxhall and Ford here as those are both makes I've a long history with.In a typical Zetec,Ecotec or Redtop (ah,the Redtop) there's no tricky valve timing nonsense to trouble the oil system with. Again,Toyota aren't stupid,not by a long shot and much of the thinking behind the reduced oil capacity was to avoid a bath of oil laying in the sump as the engine runs.If the big ends are paddling in an oil bath,even just dipping their toes then that's extra drag which absorbs heat,causes friction and even churns up a frothy mist of oil in the crankcase.It's takes some of that precious power churning up the engine oil in the sump,the oil mist can increase crankcase pressure and air bubbles in your lube isn't as cool as it sounds.There are good reasons to try to lessen the effect so less actual oil means you will have a lot less of the oil that's just been around the block,so to speak collecting in the sump.It passes go and straight back up the oil pick up for another lap.Of course,having some of that oil in your sump may cause windage but iut also allows the oil that precious moment to cool down some.The ZZs oil isn't getting that adventageous cooling effect so is running hotter. Hotter oil will break down quicker but if you only use top quality fully synthetic oil and rigourously change it at the specified time or mileage then what could go wrong.Ok,how about lower tension piston rings that aren't forced against the cylinder wall to the same degree as usual.Reduced friction,reduces heat,drag and therefore robs less power and increases efficiency.This engine was expected to return good fuel figures and mine has always been around 39-43 mpg combined.I drive with very little consideration of mpg unless my predicted range is lower than the miles to the next petrol station.That's in town,back roads,country lanes,dual carriageways daily,to me that's pretty good for a car approaching 19 and over 200,000 miles on the clock. I digress,rings.If the rings aren't as hard against the cylinder wall they're not creating as much friction or heat but they're not sealing the cylinder as effectively either which afterall is important.While we're on the subject of rings,the cooling holes under the oil control ring are incredibly small compared to the typical piston in similar engines plus they are only 4 of them. Maybe initially not a great concern but in an engine running a little hotter,possibly experiencing more combustion gases being blown by the lower tension piston rings,the oil overworked,a little hotter than it need be and if not changed religiously carrying some contaminants then being forced through narrow holes in the very hot piston lands tarnishing and deposits can build up remarkably quickly blocking those precious holes also robbing the pistons of the scant cooling they require.Take a look at the size of the oil filter,it's so dinky it's cute lol. The 7A-FE engine used in the initial run of T22s had an oil cooler without any of the potential inbuilt oil woes,why didn't the 1ZZ ? Have no idea but it would surely help unless the extra piping and diversion of so low a volume of oil would further reduce oil pressure,it makes sense in some way.Well,much like war where the battle plan is foolproof until the first shot is fired these engines where inspired until people started to buy cars with them and didn't treat them quite as dillegently as they so obviously require.A few missed oil changes,cheap oil,leave out changing the filter this time and..... So,in a world where fossil fuels are clearly a finite resource the last thing anyone needs in to buy a cheap 2nd hand motor that requires almost as much oil as petrol.Why would anyone want to buy one of these just to burn oil and money out the tailpipe.Well,in my experience even a half decently cared for 1ZZ-FE with 160,000 miles won't necessarily be an oil burner.Itcould have had it's block replaced under warranty.All the problems were ironed out by 2005 or 2006 so a T25 with a 1ZZ or 3ZZ can be a truly viable proposition but so can a T22 if you take a little time to check the thing out.Even one on it's original engine can have a solid motor that sips the oil like a teetotller,not all are rampant oilaholics.A lot of the T22s still on the road and on the market have been looked after and cared for.Probably had all their required oil changes,services and used the right oil of good quality.If that's the case it's a winner and if the oil changes are maintained it may never turn to the dark side. I own a 2002 Vermont with the dread 1ZZ-FE.I've had it for over 6 years now and have done 70,00+ miles in it and I can categorically say it goes through oil like I go through tea and water.Worse,even especially if my right foot starts getting a little heavy.I do 350-450 miles a week typically and can use anything from a litre to several over a month.It seems excessive to me and in any other engine I'd be greatly concerned but not with this one.It doesn't use oil or burn oil but has an annoyingly impossible to get to oil leak that although it isn't messy in terms of driveway or even for that matter engine bay none the less it's an issue which I suspect troubles and has troubled a lot more ZZs than people realise.When at first I got the car I only then began to read about the oil dangers I could expect to face so I kept a troubled eye on my oil use,which after running /ford motors for years I was already well schooled in but it felt like it was an inevitable future.Not if but when and when did come to pass. Yet it baffled me becasue once it began it seemed to use a fair bit at times so why were there no cat issues,oily spark plugs,fault codes or cloulds of blue smoke.If it wasn't using it was losing yet never was there a tiny oil stain on the tarmac or oily gunk in every corner of the engine bay. It took replacing a bottom radiator hose or more to the point jacking up the front,removing the driverside wheel and wheelarch liner to inspect the bottom hose for me to see the fresh oil around the power steering pump area.In fact,.my very first M.O.T owning it came back with a leaking power steering hose advisory except it wasn't wet with power steering fluid but reasonably clean full synthetic oil. Have you done an oil change with brand new,good quality 5W 30 fully synthetic.You top up,let it settle and check the dipstick and are surprised to see no oil on it.except there is.It's fresh,the colour of water,as this and viscous as water being fully synthetic so careful oil level checking is required. With a leak around the area of the timing chain cover and chain tensioner the oil doesn't leak exactly but is forced out as the engine is running,the faster the engine is running the greater the volume of oil is evacuated but seeing as it is being constantly replenished with fresh oil almost weekly it rarely turns black or gets thick and gloopy so is incredibly hard to actually see any sign of,with no chance looking from above.You would have to look from underneath,in the right area and either be lucky or suspect it already.Otherwis the chance of confirming that's what's happening are very low. And why would you even look,there is a massive reputation that blights this poor engines name so when you're going through oil faster than normal you don't require an answer because it's already there,these engines burn oil like nobody's business,dealers changed blocks under warranty.It's not a conspiracy theory it's fact and depending on the car and it's history a solid gold one at that but don't be so quick to play the oil burning card.As I said,I personally though cannot in anyway proove it but I do suspect a lot of them were leaking rather than burning.The bad name though earned to a degree although it's just like dogs,there's no bad dogs just bad,awful dog owners well there's is and has been terrible Avensis owners,it's not the fault of the Avensis. The T22 in particular is a fine car that's still on the road aplenty despite being replaced almost 18 years ago.Look on ebay,autocar or your local paper there's no shortage of good,well looked after T22s for sale with some still commanding good money for a car that old.I mean,when was the last time you saw a T22 in the scrapyard. How many Hondas,Audis,Mondeos and Passats or Golfs were there,a fair few I bet. A 1.8 vvt-i is a great 2nd hand car if it's in good shape,I'm sure the 1.6 vvt-i would be too but sounds a little underpowered for my tastes but for others it would be ideal. And again in it's own right the 1ZZ-FE is a really good engine,especially in it's 143bhp Celica version.The variable valve is completely different to a V-tech which is really about power,the vvt-i is about producing good levels of torque low down,power towards the upper end of the rev range plus good economy at all times,which it does.I find it easier to think of as having variable valve overlap rather than variable timing./cam advance but it's essentially the same thing,a bit like Zebras are the white with black stripes or are black striped over white...same thing !! When they work,they're smooth,quiet,torquey low down,propell the Avensis along nicely,relaible as it gets whether consuming masses of oil or not,that's the weirdest thing they may get through oil one way or another but they still start every morning and pass emissions tests every year. Now,that really is a clever trick it beats even pea and ham from a chicken
  12. I've put full coilovers on my T22. Adjustable up to apparently 50mm but I've got mine set around 35.Handles beautifully but I kept the standard 195/60/15s so that takes a lot of the potential harshness out of the ride. Plus it's not set to the hardest damper settings nor maximum preload. Looks great 😉👌
  13. And she keeps on gping 😉😉 20201110_161828.heic
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