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Posts posted by fastbob72

  1. Looking at my topic title the phrase "....and various body parts" has a rather dark tone but I'm looking for some replacement parts for my 2002 1.8 vvt-i (facelifted) Avensis. I really wish to find an SR mesh grille preferably in silver which seems to describe 90% of T22 Avensis (would the plural be Avensi or Avenses?) although I've seen few silver SRs either way the colour isn't particularly a problem as I'd repaint it to match. Also I'm interested in a 2000-2003 T22 front bumper and wings (definitely silver would be preferable),the rear hatch lock surround - the plastic piece that fits above the number plate,I'm not even sure what it's called but mine snapped off and I've struggled to find a replacement as of yet. Lastly,a rear subframe i.e the main frame member that bolts to the rear chassis rails and locates the 4 suspension arms,as I've used mine as the main jacking point for the rear end of the car it's become deformed and mildly rusted so a decent replacement is if not essential certainly desireable.

    In fact if anyone out there is breaking a 2000-2003 SR then that would be ideal. Even someone with a 2000 onwards hatchback T22 of any model except a diesel or automatic then message me as I've taken my own T22 temporarily off the road to give it something of a mini restoration-ish so there's probably all kinds of parts I can't think of off the top of my head that I don't actually NEED for the car but would be definitely be interested in.


    Cheers FB

  2. Thanks,I pretty much assumed the button was more about a potential DAB upgrade rather than being standard ,which is a shame as I miss having the digital radio which I'd fitted in my T22 but then again it has the AUX input which means I can listen to Audible or Spotify whatever by p.lugging my mobile in so it works out in the end anyway 🙂

    Is the DAB module easy to get hold of still and worth fitting ?

  3. I have somewhat of a grave confession to make.To stand up and say the words out loud in front of an audience to lance the ugly truth. My beloved Avensis,the T22 ran out of MOT jan the 31st and I now drive a 59 plate Yaris 1.33 vvt-i.

    My head hangs with shame.Yet it shouldn't as although it wasn't planned this way it's going to work out for the best.The T22 is in my driveway,up on ramps and stands with her interior removed and me inspecting every inch of the underneath for the dread signs of rust,which will be eliminated and solid metal welded in it's place.

    Knowing the test was due I had intended,even booked it in for the test but the weather up my way between snow from christmas until the past week,ice and even temperatures hitting -15 at one point 'I couldn't even get the car down to my house for fear I'd be unable to get back up the gradient of the semi tarmac,semi hardcored track from my driveway to the lane at the top if it snowed overnight which it did regularly from xmas till the end of january.

    Unable to get my car down I certainly couldn't begin prepping it for the test so when this little bugeyed thing came up for reasonable money with a years tickets and 30 quid a year for tax it seemed to make a kind of sense,though seriously reluctant sense.Parking up the T22 was like saying goodbye to your faithful dog during that last terrible trip to the vet but that isn't the plan nor never was.The Yaris though capable and all that is no replacement for my Avensis,not even close but it gives me the space and time to turn my full attention on the T22 without being compelled to get it back on the road yesterday which has always been the case until now.

    Back in 2018 I bought a Celica with the 2ZZ-GE motor to do a swap into my T22 but knowing this would be complex it soon became clear it would be even more than I had imagined not that the idea was dropped.The 2ZZ has been fully rebuilt,the head has been mildly flowed and ported by my good self.New cams,new lifters,modified manifold and so and so on.What became clear was the swap would take weeks rather than the days I'd initially envisioned.The two engines while almost identical on paper are ddifferent sizes.The 2ZZ is fatter which if you know what FE and GE actually mean should be that huge a surprise yet I hadn't imagined the difference would matter,the 1ZZ is slightly taller but the 2ZZ was canted back slightly with the Celicas engine bay so if mounted vertically in the T22 suddenly the 6 speed transaxle will be at slight angle to the horizontal. The exhaust on the 1ZZ drops straight down then does a 90 degree turn at floor level,the 2ZZ ex manifold comes out at around 45 degrees straight into the where the bulkhead is so some form of 'trans tunnel' will need to be cut out and fabricated whilst not losing any torsional rigidity or adding excess weight.

    Engine mounts will need to be fabricated and where exactly within the bay does it go.I think the easiest way would to be to use my driveshafts as a kind of datum point and position the engine and trans to line up with them .Of course,all this fabrication,changes to the cars structure will mean an engineers examination to pass the MOT so I intend to MOT it first,then do the swap and by the time it's due again all the issues and fault will have been ironed out and solved until it's genuinely ready to be deemed roadworthy.

    So the Yaris has been a rather unlooked for blessing although I have to admit that last sunday morning when I was about to head to work it certainly was no blessing at all.A veritable curse if you'd asked me right then.

    It had been fine,Toyota like reliable for the couple of weeks so far but come 9.15 am last sunday when I turned the key nothing happened.Dash light lit up like normal but turning the engine produced nothing at all,not even dimming dash lights like you'd expect.Having very little time I whipped the good Battery from the Avensis placing in front of the Yaris thinking,hoping it was slightly flat and a good kick from the T22 Battery would  frankenstein it into life.I'd put the T22 up on stands and removed the wheels so that option was not even in the  running,just the Battery and some jump leads but they made no difference. Anyway,I found another way in and on returning puzzled what was the Yaris playing at.

    It had been fine saturday afternoon yet useless sunday morning,what had changed.All I'd done to it saturday evening was look in the boot as I was curious for no particular reason whether it had a space saver or a real spare tyre,space saver btw 😞 I'd checked the Oil and took the floor mats out of the T22 and put them into the Yaris.How did any of that cause it to refuse to start.

    The first clue was the lack of anything at all when turning the key past ACC .You'd expect a sluggish starter if the Battery was drained,a jammed starter should have dimmed the lights so it seemed like an electrical fault in the starting curcuit or the solenoid had given up but why there seemed no answer.Personally,I suspected the issue was with security system.,the remote locking key ,immobiliser or something. Scanning an online curcuit diagram of the starter system I saw there was a clutch switch,a what ? Clutch switch which upon further reading it appeared if the clutch pedal wasn't fully depressed when starting no power went to the starter.

    I don't know which is more bizarre,a starter with a clutch switch or the idea someone would start a manual without their foot down on the clutch,why would you start a car any other way,makes no sense to me at all.

    Then it struck me,it seemed ridiculous but actual possible.Were the floor mats preventing the clutch from fully closing the switch and cutting power to the starter..Surely not,how thick is a rubber floor mat 1/4 inch if that.Could that little amount of restriction under the pedal cause all this.Well,if you hadn't guessed that was exactly the problem although with or without the mat the clutch pedal felt fully pressed down whatever but with  the mat removed it started first time.

    It's the craziest starting problem I've ever had to deal with but I sup[pose a victory for a little lateral thinking and I'll certainly not make that mistake again.

    Also,can anyone tell me what the gear ratios and final drive for the 6 spd 1.33 vvt-i Yaris are because I've hunted online for hours and haven't found anything I can call reliable.I believe it's a EC66 transaxle according to the plate in my passenger door jam but searching that online has drawn a blank.I bought the ebook manual from a well known online resource which I've used before many times yet the manual doesn't cover the manual gearbox,the auto yes,manual no.

    Any advice,answers or suggestion who to try would be extremely welcome right now .

  4. I hope my fellow forum members will allow me a little understanding and forebearance with this topic.Is it truly a guide or an opinion,am I flying the flag or banging the drum a bit? I don't think so,I have a great appreciation for these engines,for their clever design,the vvt-i in so many ways is far superior to the V-tech although I do wish it gave you the same kick in the pants when you hit 6000 but that's not what it's about nor is it trying to be.Again I hope this post/guide/opinion/ is thought reasonable enough to qualify as I truly do wish to at the very least inform those who may be contemplating that most maligned motor,the 2001-2005 1.8 vvt-i. The most infamous 1ZZ-FE.

    It's hardly a revelation that the later T22s,the vvt-i's in the late Y-reg to 03 reg range are often considered more of a risky second hand buy than the earlier pre mid-model facelift T22s when it comes to buying the 1.6 and 1.8 petrol engined versions.The 2.0 vvt-i was a different family of engine so wasn't cursed with the ZZ genes which plagued early 1ZZs,2ZZs and 3ZZs.Also the diesels completely sidestep this issue too so unless you're buying a 1.6 or 1.8 vvt-i then by all means read on as it may be interesting but any issues brought up here really don't effect you.Feel completely free to be quietly smug 🙂

    That weakness,the infamous deadly curse to all the offspring in the ZZ family,pre 2005 is a prodigious thirst for the amber nectar. i.e 5W 30 fully synthetic motor Oil.I've read posts by owners of Corollas,stateside funnily enough of burning through a quart of Oil in 50-100 miles.A quart being quarter of a gallon although their puny gallons aren't quite a robust as ours so not quite the full 2 pints I imagine.Nonetheless what,say a litre or litre and half of Oil in 100 miles.That is firmly in old oily CVH XR2/XR3 territory.Yes,exactly that bad !! The thing is whether you think exaggeration or suddenly start to feel a lot less keen on that 52 plate Vermont you had in mind the fact Toyota dealers were replacing short blocks on a number of customers cars strongly suggests there was a definite problem here,dealerships do not replace engines or suffer the man hours costs lightly so clearly there was and is fire behind all that blue oily smoke.That I don't think anyone would dispute.

    Ok,this is Toyota were talking about not Audi or Mercedes (am joking,am just not a fan of AutoUnions but I have owned one in the past,an Audi 80 Sport no less so...).How did Toyota come up with a seemingly badly envisioned lame duck like the ZZ and it's brood.Well,in actual fact it's quite a clever and innovative engine that had some weaknesses designed in,pretty glaringly obvious one with hindsight but I'm sure there's an apt expression concerning hindsight.Maybe we should include some rose tinted glasses for the designers too.

    Some of the less well thought out areas we can highlight all pretty much centre around the lubrication system.For one,a modern 1800 16 valve engine with only 3.6 litres of Oil including the filter seems like asking for trouble but then if you add the variable valve timing/cam phaser system which maybe be triggered and controlled expertly by the ECU,it's plain old Oil pressure that moves the moving parts.It does seem like a lot to ask of not exactly a lot of Oil.I mean a typical 1.8 or 2.0 twin cam at the time would normally have 4.5 say.I'm thinking Vauxhall and Ford here as those are both makes I've a long history with.In a typical Zetec,Ecotec or Redtop (ah,the Redtop) there's no tricky valve timing nonsense to trouble the Oil system with.

    Again,Toyota aren't stupid,not by a long shot and much of the thinking behind the reduced Oil capacity was to avoid a bath of Oil laying in the sump as the engine runs.If the big ends are paddling in an Oil bath,even just dipping their toes then that's extra drag which absorbs heat,causes friction and even churns up a frothy mist of Oil in the crankcase.It's takes some of that precious power churning up the engine Oil in the sump,the Oil mist can increase crankcase pressure and air bubbles in your lube isn't as cool as it sounds.There are good reasons to try to lessen the effect so less actual Oil means you will have a lot less of the Oil that's just been around the block,so to speak collecting in the sump.It passes go and straight back up the Oil pick up for another lap.Of course,having some of that Oil in your sump may cause windage but iut also allows the Oil that precious moment to cool down some.The ZZs Oil isn't getting that adventageous cooling effect so is running hotter.

    Hotter Oil will break down quicker but if you only use top quality fully synthetic Oil and rigourously change it at the specified time or mileage then what could go wrong.Ok,how about lower tension piston rings that aren't forced against the cylinder wall to the same degree as usual.Reduced friction,reduces heat,drag and therefore robs less power and increases efficiency.This engine was expected to return good fuel figures and mine has always been around 39-43 mpg combined.I drive with very little consideration of mpg unless my predicted range is lower than the miles to the next petrol station.That's in town,back roads,country lanes,dual carriageways daily,to me that's pretty good for a car approaching 19 and over 200,000 miles on the clock. I digress,rings.If the rings aren't as hard against the cylinder wall they're not creating as much friction or heat but they're not sealing the cylinder as effectively either which afterall is important.While we're on the subject of rings,the cooling holes under the Oil control ring are incredibly small compared to the typical piston in similar engines plus they are only 4 of them.

    Maybe initially not a great concern but in an engine running a little hotter,possibly experiencing more combustion gases being blown by the lower tension piston rings,the Oil overworked,a little hotter than it need be and if not changed religiously carrying some contaminants then being forced through narrow holes in the very hot piston lands tarnishing and deposits can build up remarkably quickly blocking those precious holes also robbing the pistons of the scant cooling they require.Take a look at the size of the Oil filter,it's so dinky it's cute lol. The 7A-FE engine used in the initial run of T22s had an Oil cooler without any of the potential inbuilt Oil woes,why didn't the 1ZZ ? Have no idea but it would surely help unless the extra piping and diversion of so low a volume of Oil would further reduce Oil pressure,it makes sense in some way.Well,much like war where the battle plan is foolproof until the first shot is fired these engines where inspired until people started to buy cars with them and didn't treat them quite as dillegently as they so obviously require.A few missed Oil changes,cheap Oil,leave out changing the filter this time and.....

    So,in a world where fossil fuels are clearly a finite resource the last thing anyone needs in to buy a cheap 2nd hand motor that requires almost as much Oil as petrol.Why would anyone want to buy one of these just to burn Oil and money out the tailpipe.Well,in my experience even a half decently cared for 1ZZ-FE with 160,000 miles won't necessarily be an Oil burner.Itcould have had it's block replaced under warranty.All the problems were ironed out by 2005 or 2006 so a T25 with a 1ZZ or 3ZZ can be a truly viable proposition but so can a T22 if you take a little time to check the thing out.Even one on it's original engine can have a solid motor that sips the Oil like a teetotller,not all are rampant oilaholics.A lot of the T22s still on the road and on the market have been looked after and cared for.Probably had all their required Oil changes,services and used the right Oil of good quality.If that's the case it's a winner and if the Oil changes are maintained it may never turn to the dark side.

    I own a 2002 Vermont with the dread 1ZZ-FE.I've had it for over 6 years now and have done 70,00+ miles in it and I can categorically say it goes through Oil like I go through tea and water.Worse,even especially if my right foot starts getting a little heavy.I do 350-450 miles a week typically and can use anything from a litre to several over a month.It seems excessive to me and in any other engine I'd be greatly concerned but not with this one.It doesn't use Oil or burn Oil but has an annoyingly impossible to get to Oil leak that although it isn't messy in terms of driveway or even for that matter engine bay none the less it's an issue which I suspect troubles and has troubled a lot more ZZs than people realise.When at first I got the car I only then began to read about the Oil dangers I could expect to face so I kept a troubled eye on my Oil use,which after running /ford motors for years I was already well schooled in but it felt like it was an inevitable future.Not if but when and when did come to pass. Yet it baffled me becasue once it began it seemed to use a fair bit at times so why were there no cat issues,oily spark plugs,fault codes or cloulds of blue smoke.If it wasn't using it was losing yet never was there a tiny Oil stain on the tarmac or oily gunk in every corner of the engine bay. It took replacing a bottom radiator hose or more to the point jacking up the front,removing the driverside wheel and wheelarch liner to inspect the bottom hose for me to see the fresh Oil around the power steering pump area.In fact,.my very first M.O.T owning it came back with a leaking power steering hose advisory except it wasn't wet with power steering fluid but reasonably clean full synthetic Oil. Have you done an Oil change with brand new,good quality 5W 30 fully synthetic.You top up,let it settle and check the dipstick and are surprised to see no Oil on it.except there is.It's fresh,the colour of water,as this and viscous as water being fully synthetic so careful Oil level checking is required.  With a leak around the area of the timing chain cover and chain tensioner the Oil doesn't leak exactly but is forced out as the engine is running,the faster the engine is running the greater the volume of Oil is evacuated but seeing as it is being constantly replenished with fresh Oil almost weekly it rarely turns black or gets thick and gloopy so is incredibly hard to actually see any sign of,with no chance looking from above.You would have to look from underneath,in the right area and either be lucky or suspect it already.Otherwis the chance of confirming that's what's happening are very low.

    And why would you even look,there is a massive reputation that blights this poor engines name so when you're going through Oil faster than normal you don't require an answer because it's already there,these engines burn Oil like nobody's business,dealers changed blocks under warranty.It's not a conspiracy theory it's fact and depending on the car and it's history a solid gold one at that but don't be so quick to play the Oil burning card.As I said,I personally though cannot in anyway proove it but I do suspect a lot of them were leaking rather than burning.The bad name though earned to a degree although it's just like dogs,there's no bad dogs just bad,awful dog owners well there's is and has been terrible Avensis owners,it's not the fault of the Avensis.

    The T22 in particular is a fine car that's still on the road aplenty despite being replaced almost 18 years ago.Look on ebay,autocar or your local paper there's no shortage of good,well looked after T22s for sale with some still commanding good money for a car that old.I mean,when was the last time you saw a T22 in the scrapyard. How many Hondas,Audis,Mondeos and Passats or Golfs were there,a fair few I bet. A 1.8 vvt-i is a great 2nd hand car if it's in good shape,I'm sure the 1.6 vvt-i would be too but sounds a little underpowered for my tastes but for others it would be ideal.

    And again in it's own right the 1ZZ-FE is a really good engine,especially in it's 143bhp Celica version.The variable valve is completely different to a V-tech which is really about power,the vvt-i is about producing good levels of torque low down,power towards the upper end of the rev range plus good economy at all times,which it does.I find it easier to think of as having variable valve overlap rather than variable timing./cam advance but it's essentially the same thing,a bit like Zebras are the white with black stripes or are black striped over white...same thing !! When they work,they're smooth,quiet,torquey low down,propell the Avensis along nicely,relaible as it gets whether consuming masses of Oil or not,that's the weirdest thing they may get through Oil one way or another but they still start every morning and pass emissions tests every year.

    Now,that really is a clever trick it beats even pea and ham from a chicken 

    • Like 1
  5. I've put full coilovers on my T22. Adjustable up to apparently 50mm but I've got mine set around 35.Handles beautifully but I kept the standard 195/60/15s so that takes a lot of the potential harshness out of the ride. Plus it's not set to the hardest damper settings nor maximum preload.

    Looks great 😉👌

  6. On the way home. from work the old girl passed the last mile in the 199,000s to be the first car I've owned with anything like this high mileage.


    I have had cars up in the 130, 000s but that was them about to reach or near to reaching their very final stages of usefulness before the end comes.


    This is not only the highest mileage I've seen in any of my cars but most probably she's the oldest car I have had. The oldest that I have had when I owned it.


    I did have a 1976 R reg Ford Capri II 1.6 GL which is the oldest of all but as that was 1991 when I had it it was just 15 years old at the time. The old girl is a 2002 so she's 18 now or nearer to 19 actually.


    I've owned and run this car far longer than any other I have owned as I have had it since the end of 2014/early 2015. I have been driving it continuously all that time so I've had in approx five and a half years. The mileage was in the early to mid 140, 000s so I've clocked more than 55,000 miles with her.


    Bearing in mind I paid £600 for it I definitely consider I have had my moneys-worth out of this one.


    The thing is I've been anticipating hitting 200,000 for months now as I got closer and closer to that total. It's a milestone that I think is quite remarkable. Whereas low mileage is what everyone rates in a used car I think this landmark is something to relish.


    It's due it's MoT at the end of Jan 2021 and I don't see any reason why it won't pass on the day as it has done to date with only the mildest perp work required.


    The engine, a 1ZZ motor is going strong still with great compression,with very little wear on the cam lobes etc. It's a 1ZZ so has an Oil problem but not it's not the burner of urban myth but seems to lose it from around the timing cover/tensioner area more rapidly as engine speed increases.


    Btw, I keep referring to it as the old girl or my old girl. I've owned it for so long now. Driven it day in day out and quite often crank along at 90mph but I can state from experience that the quoted 125 mph top speed is very reachable, well 125mph on the clock speed is that's for sure. In other words, it's not had a slow, sedate life with me. I love high speed in cars and doing it along old country roads with sharp bends and corners.


    She's no longer 'The Toyota', she's been put to the test and not found wanting and any car that survives and thrives in that situation is gping to earn my respect and affection. A pet name had to come. I'm not one for naming cars so in the end the 'old girl' seems to fit her right.


    Now that we're starting into to the 200,000s I'll be interesting to know what the final total will be one day.


    For now,she is going strong and has never once let me down so that eventual final mileage could well be a big one.


    300,000 here we come [emoji6]80e9e98ea37da5b19d401423be127513.jpg24ab5e20d2330b413f0546de32708567.jpgdce5727da9fdd5fc58b97c16524ba427.jpg


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  7. [emoji3][emoji3]
    Wow, that is such a beautiful looking T22.

    You just don't see Mk1/T22 estates around at all and I can't the last time I saw one, if I ever have (no, I 'm absolutely positive I have but was I aware of it within my field of vision, I don't know).

    Anyway, looking at this sweet example it' s a shame they aren't much more plentiful.

    It sits lovely, nice wheels and if the bodywork and paintwork is in good condition and well looked after it is very hard to top a proper white car.

    I've seen very few T22s in white either for real out on the road or in photos or images online but I have to say it really looks great in this colour [emoji4][emoji4]

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    • Like 1

    I have been getting a smell from my car - no funny comments please lol - no, it's a hot smell, sort of burning smell.


    Not burning Oil or plastic or rubber, similar to a boiling coolant kind of smell but not that either.


    It's not burning electrical wire, not burning bearings but definitely somethings getting overheated or smouldering.


    When I destroyed my front bumper hitting a deer then stitched it back together I noticed my front wheelarch liners aren't securely fixed at the bumper end and intruding into. the arch perhaps rubbing off my tyres....... that's got to be it.


    Except it wasn't (I wish I took a photo before throwing the culprit in the bin).


    I was checking my Oil about an hour ago..... it's a 1ZZ with 198,000 miles so keeping an eye on my Oil is part and parcrel.


    Anyway down between the head and the main coolant hose that exits the engine with all that lovely boiling antifreeze mix was the remains of a massive dessicated and charred dragonfly..... it had wings about 4 inches long and a big long body about the same. It's back was or had been a sort of purpley incandescent shade but was charred black where it was sandwiched right uo against the head itself.


    Anyway, have ran back. and forward to the shop and wouldn't you know, mysterious smell has gone. Mind you, it made me get off my rear and sort the archliners which was what I was doing prior to checking the Oil.


    So if you get a weird hot, burning smell that you really cannot place perhaps it's actually cooking insect instead [emoji6][emoji6]


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    • Haha 3
  9. I have had these come up on mine in the past, it wasn't quite the same P0 code and I'm sorry but I can't remember which one it was but in the end I replaced both front o2 sensors (btw, I have an 02 T22 1.8 vvt-i 1ZZ-FE) but I found with my rear lambda/O2 sensor one or maybe two of, I can't remember now, the four wires to the sensor were severed, mostly by wear and corrosion.

    I cut them all back 2 or 3 inches from the end of the sensor until I found good, solid uncorroded, untwisted, unbroken wire and soldered them back together..

    I haven't seen an engine malfunction light or P0 code since amd that's been 2 years and 2 Mots.

    Now, did I need to replace the front sensors ?

    I really don't know but these error codes kept reappearing until I fixed the rear wiring issue once and for all.

    I bought generic sensors from ebay for the front two O2 sensors at roughly £40 each that fitted as they should and have not given me any issues in 3 years.... you can buy the OE sensors for probably a fair bit more but these have done the job adequately.

    I'd check the rear one and especially the wiring first before changing sensors.

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    • Thanks 1
  10. It's crude but surprisingly strong and doesn't look immediately like a bodged repair,well aslong as no one takes a 2nd look at least [emoji2960][emoji2960]97c49a83dbd824caa8be6fc1a249c075.jpgb1b29802123b50b600b7b831a1105cd2.jpgd5c577a9af040f093f4eaa0d6bb41998.jpg91aac87551f78904a57ec1b6a270a8b1.jpg

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  11. 5am this morning, heading to work at a steady 65+ mph and I came round the corner as the poor thing decided to jump into the road. Never even got the chance to brake.

    It must have been a really young deer as I imagine a bit more mature and experienced animal wouldn't have hopped so unfearfully into the path of speeding car.

    Besides it went under rather than to the side or over the bonnet and roof which a larger animal would.

    Poor !Removed! thing, at least it would have been quick.

    No structural damage but that bumper needs fixing asap [emoji17][emoji17][emoji17]8a02f224d2eaf4ac6b1a216b6df95cf9.jpg6e4a8f065b8d374bdf33e31934865b46.jpg65bb06ca5738227e9abe192223b5dbcb.jpg

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  12. Hello. there, if I understand your question properly you have the standard Avensis radio/CD unit that's built into to the dash but want to change it for a typical DIN aftermarket unit.

    Although, it's an odd shape behind the faceplate of the standard unit it's actually a DIN unit that is fitted so swapping to your aftermarket one shouldn't be any trouble at all. It wasn't for me.

    The only downside is the fact, as you can see, the opening in the dashboard is wider and a different shape to the typical aftermarket DIN size that they tend to sale so you are left with a radio/CD unit that is obviously a replacement and not the built in unit the car came with but if you can live with it looking like it does in my photos then it's ok. 6eb314e98d3faab5f359051693425ec3.jpg2dbb89b7089ad13a6b1fd8e9909f9239.jpg

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  13. Purely out of interest as I have downloaded Techstream in the past and had it running on my laptop with Windows 10.

    Always though it asks for a specific official code that you have to enter to demonstrate that it's a legitimate fully purchased copy and that you are a proper garage etc. Without the particular code I could only run a highly reduced version of techstream which was pretty poor to be honest.

    Have you all purchased the full programme with all the relevant passwords or codes and if so how. much does that cost, is it worth it.

    If not how did you get around it.

    The K and L line are used with the earlier OBD2 models like my 02 T22. It uses the ISO 9141-2 protocol like all of the T22s although I noticed some of the later 02 models, 52 plates, that they had some of the 2 wire hi/lo cabling used by canbus but whether that meant they actually used an early canbus version or the harnesses were starting to be made compliant for canbus in preparation for the T25 I'm not entirely sure.

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  14. My 2000 avensis 2.0 gls auto with 53k on clock two owners from new and full Toyota history 
    Really nice, great to see more T22s still on the go.... I do sometimes wonder if they were ever any other colour.

    You can have any colour as long as it's silver [emoji4][emoji4]

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    • Like 1
  15. This is my baby [emoji3590]
    I had too much time in the lockdown (covid19) so I painted the brakes red. Like a teenager would... [emoji16]
    Planing on spending a lot of time and some money to make it look and drive even better. 
    I never thought a Toyota estate would make my heart beat faster, but it does every time! 
    Very nice. Suddenly I feel a touch embarrassed for painting my brakes yellow considering my teenage years are a distant memory lol.

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    • Like 1
  16. Best laid plans and all that.......



    The other day while looking for something completely unrelated I found a tin of grey plastic primer and knew I had half a tin of Toyota metallic silver kicking around so figured I'd use it for an old trick that usually works well I've done many times in the past.


    Painting the part between the clocks and the clear plastic panel body colour takes no time at all. Also it looks really good 9 times out of 10 for the amount of work involved.


    So that was my plan butnin so many ways it just didn't seem to work this time.


    Despite taking due care and preparation the finish between the fuel gauge and speedo looks like a regiment of spiders route marched all over the shop.


    Also the overall texture just looks, well,quite frankly rough cheap as if the plastic is incredibly porous and soaked up half the paint.


    I might try removing it and rubbing the whole thing down with wet n dry sandpaper until the surface is glass like smooth then going over the whole process again.


    Overall, it looks good. With the silver panels around the central dash and the right hand air vent,mirror adjustment and headlight leveller the silver instrument panel adds to the effect.


    The odd failure is good for the soul or so they so [emoji849][emoji849][emoji848]bc2e1d366c5ea2bee268d2dede8fb2ec.jpg0428e910d4e98fecb8257915fb56b38a.jpg91ffdd98487b8cc6bca87c173866db6b.jpg


    Sent from my SM-A202F using Tapatalk





    • Like 2
  17. Personally speaking,I spend 45-60 hours a week driving a 26 ton vehicle powered by diesel so have more than enough of them to drive a diesel car but in all truth I've never really understood the urge to run a diesel car unless you regularly tow caravans or boats.

    I understand that there has,for some years now until recently at least,a general trend in favour of diesel through salesmen and even government 'nudges' so it's no wonder a lot of people went down that route,including my parents but even so you couldn't convince me out of my petrol into a diesel.Not that I am now laying back with a smug grin now that diesels are losing their popularity like they're infected with the plague because the future is undoubtedly becoming darker for my beloved petrol engined cars aswell.

    Does it make sense? I think you pretty much answered your own question in that original post.At least,in your own terms and according to what matters to you it definitely doesn't add up but another man's poison etc means it still may make sense to someone else with different concerns although it's hard to imagine how it could but I'm sure it does to someone who does very high mileage or a lot of towing or carrying heavy loads.

    Again,for myself I always far preferred the way the petrol engine delivered it's power to the diesel (yeah,I know modern diesels are much smoother and higher revving but I'm bombing around in a £600 car that's nearly 18 years old,I like old cars and just not prepared to lay out thousands and thousands to buy a diesel that runs like a petrol despite being able to afford it).Petrol engines are lighter,generally handles,brakes and steer better than their equivalent diesel version.Parts are cheaper,petrol is a little bit cheaper and always has been I think and even now my cars is doing an avg of 40-42 mpg which is fantastic considering I've always been happy to get 30mpg out of any of my cars.

    If you do decide to part with your diesel has it lost a lot of it's resale value since the whole 'dirty cheating Volkswagen/anti-diesel' movement has swung into action ?

    In the now approaching 28 years I've been buying and owning cars which is now healithly passed the 75 owned mark (my T22 is 79th,I believe making the old Celica technically number 80.Bought as a parts car though makes it debatable so I don't count it).Over that span of time and the full list of cars I can say with 100% certainty that resale value has never once been a consideration,not even a passing thought but I know that the vast,vast majority of people approach car ownership from a common sense,adult perspective so resale value definitely is an important factor.

    I do feel sorry for all those people who bought diesel cars just as the consensus swung hard against them.Most people would have believed it made more sense because of the obvious generally held opinion that this was the case and who's to say they were wrong.Also just because the consensus has swung 180 degrees that's no reason to accept that the consensus has been corrected from previously being mistaken because the general consensus changes almost always because certain interested parties and their spokesmen tend to want it changed for their own particular agenda.If diesel was such a nonsensical option,more expensive for average use,more epensive to maintain and a lot less cleaner than believed why were they backed by so many parties who were accepted as having a clue.

    I'm not going down the conspiracy path but simply saying that you really should do your own homework and ultimately you're own thinking when it comes down to what actually makes sense for you rather than go with the weight of opinion as that has the habit of doing a 180 in a heartbeat without accepting any responsibility for those that believed in it and listened only to find themselves on the wrong side of the fickle court of public opinion (which isn't worth a litre of diesel if you ask me ).

    • Like 3
  18. large.cameringo_20190903_203700.jpg.d1b55aa6517feef7689183c10cc3a32d.jpglarge.cameringo_20190903_203720.jpg.385e55e54622f62a87f5964c2a57a28d.jpglarge.cameringo_20190903_213931.jpg.02b5dd9cec299b696170e5e374121220.jpglarge.cameringo_20190903_213959.jpg.57456c8d778b2ff740909b19fe5f5138.jpglarge.cameringo_20190903_213938.jpg.a4d3e41d7f1504e9253975a318d2a329.jpglarge.cameringo_20190903_214029.jpg.3c60589ce77fb95cc49ef7d08277f5bd.jpg




    Here's a few photos I took last night.

    First of all I was fitting new rear drop links but as you can see in the photos they are shorter than the ones being replaced.Wrong links?

    Yes and no.They aren't Avensis links but for a Celica but I deliberately bought them as I fitted coilovers all round on my T22 and found that the standard drop links are too long to fit well with the coilovers requiring putting the bar under a great deal of tension by jacking the coilover up into the arch to compress the spring then using my 3 foot breaking bar meant for changing HGV wheel bolts forcing the anti roll bar down as far as possible to make enough distance between the two points of attatchment to make the originals fit.As a loose drop link was flagged up on the recent MOT I bought a Celica link from ebay for a tenner.Once it arrived and turned out to be shorter like I thought it would be I ordered the other and fitted one last night.The other I am about to do shortly,unforetuneately this is my only day off this week and now it's cats and dogs outside....Oh well,it's not like that hasn't been the case a thousand times before 😞

    The other photos being a couple of snaps of my dodgey,untidy interior and a couple examples of shameless advertising.....or well situated owners club stickers lol

  19. Well, we've done it again. She's got anothher years lease of life by passing the MOT monday just gone.


    It took a bit more work than expected including welding both outer sills, new rear caliper, brake hose, brake pipe - obviously the one that requires the petrol tank dropped - discs, pads, handbrake cable, exhaust, tyres to mention a few but again we're legal 😉😉


    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  20. The photos above were taken earlier this evening.That is a 2ZZ head with the head gasket for a 1ZZ laid over it.While the bolt holes appear to line up fairly well many of the oilways and water passages don't so the 2ZZ head would require modification to align everything up.

    Also,it's not obvious from these pics unforetunately but 2ZZ combustion chambers are s good bit larger than the 1ZZs.You would require them to be reduced in size basically to the reduced bore size of the 1ZZ .

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