TOC Supporter
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by fastbob72


    I have been getting a smell from my car - no funny comments please lol - no, it's a hot smell, sort of burning smell.


    Not burning Oil or plastic or rubber, similar to a boiling coolant kind of smell but not that either.


    It's not burning electrical wire, not burning bearings but definitely somethings getting overheated or smouldering.


    When I destroyed my front bumper hitting a deer then stitched it back together I noticed my front wheelarch liners aren't securely fixed at the bumper end and intruding into. the arch perhaps rubbing off my tyres....... that's got to be it.


    Except it wasn't (I wish I took a photo before throwing the culprit in the bin).


    I was checking my Oil about an hour ago..... it's a 1ZZ with 198,000 miles so keeping an eye on my Oil is part and parcrel.


    Anyway down between the head and the main coolant hose that exits the engine with all that lovely boiling antifreeze mix was the remains of a massive dessicated and charred dragonfly..... it had wings about 4 inches long and a big long body about the same. It's back was or had been a sort of purpley incandescent shade but was charred black where it was sandwiched right uo against the head itself.


    Anyway, have ran back. and forward to the shop and wouldn't you know, mysterious smell has gone. Mind you, it made me get off my rear and sort the archliners which was what I was doing prior to checking the Oil.


    So if you get a weird hot, burning smell that you really cannot place perhaps it's actually cooking insect instead


    Sent from my SM-A202F using Tapatalk





    • Haha 2

  2. I have had these come up on mine in the past, it wasn't quite the same P0 code and I'm sorry but I can't remember which one it was but in the end I replaced both front o2 sensors (btw, I have an 02 T22 1.8 vvt-i 1ZZ-FE) but I found with my rear lambda/O2 sensor one or maybe two of, I can't remember now, the four wires to the sensor were severed, mostly by wear and corrosion.

    I cut them all back 2 or 3 inches from the end of the sensor until I found good, solid uncorroded, untwisted, unbroken wire and soldered them back together..

    I haven't seen an engine malfunction light or P0 code since amd that's been 2 years and 2 Mots.

    Now, did I need to replace the front sensors ?

    I really don't know but these error codes kept reappearing until I fixed the rear wiring issue once and for all.

    I bought generic sensors from ebay for the front two O2 sensors at roughly £40 each that fitted as they should and have not given me any issues in 3 years.... you can buy the OE sensors for probably a fair bit more but these have done the job adequately.

    I'd check the rear one and especially the wiring first before changing sensors.

    Sent from my SM-A202F using Tapatalk

    • Thanks 1

  3. It's crude but surprisingly strong and doesn't look immediately like a bodged repair,well aslong as no one takes a 2nd look at least 97c49a83dbd824caa8be6fc1a249c075.jpgb1b29802123b50b600b7b831a1105cd2.jpgd5c577a9af040f093f4eaa0d6bb41998.jpg91aac87551f78904a57ec1b6a270a8b1.jpg

    Sent from my SM-A202F using Tapatalk

  4. 5am this morning, heading to work at a steady 65+ mph and I came round the corner as the poor thing decided to jump into the road. Never even got the chance to brake.

    It must have been a really young deer as I imagine a bit more mature and experienced animal wouldn't have hopped so unfearfully into the path of speeding car.

    Besides it went under rather than to the side or over the bonnet and roof which a larger animal would.

    Poor !Removed! thing, at least it would have been quick.

    No structural damage but that bumper needs fixing asap 8a02f224d2eaf4ac6b1a216b6df95cf9.jpg6e4a8f065b8d374bdf33e31934865b46.jpg65bb06ca5738227e9abe192223b5dbcb.jpg

    Sent from my SM-A202F using Tapatalk

  5. Hello. there, if I understand your question properly you have the standard Avensis radio/CD unit that's built into to the dash but want to change it for a typical DIN aftermarket unit.

    Although, it's an odd shape behind the faceplate of the standard unit it's actually a DIN unit that is fitted so swapping to your aftermarket one shouldn't be any trouble at all. It wasn't for me.

    The only downside is the fact, as you can see, the opening in the dashboard is wider and a different shape to the typical aftermarket DIN size that they tend to sale so you are left with a radio/CD unit that is obviously a replacement and not the built in unit the car came with but if you can live with it looking like it does in my photos then it's ok. 6eb314e98d3faab5f359051693425ec3.jpg2dbb89b7089ad13a6b1fd8e9909f9239.jpg

    Sent from my SM-A202F using Tapatalk

  6. Purely out of interest as I have downloaded Techstream in the past and had it running on my laptop with Windows 10.

    Always though it asks for a specific official code that you have to enter to demonstrate that it's a legitimate fully purchased copy and that you are a proper garage etc. Without the particular code I could only run a highly reduced version of techstream which was pretty poor to be honest.

    Have you all purchased the full programme with all the relevant passwords or codes and if so how. much does that cost, is it worth it.

    If not how did you get around it.

    The K and L line are used with the earlier OBD2 models like my 02 T22. It uses the ISO 9141-2 protocol like all of the T22s although I noticed some of the later 02 models, 52 plates, that they had some of the 2 wire hi/lo cabling used by canbus but whether that meant they actually used an early canbus version or the harnesses were starting to be made compliant for canbus in preparation for the T25 I'm not entirely sure.

    Sent from my SM-A202F using Tapatalk

  7. My 2000 avensis 2.0 gls auto with 53k on clock two owners from new and full Toyota history 
    Really nice, great to see more T22s still on the go.... I do sometimes wonder if they were ever any other colour.

    You can have any colour as long as it's silver

    Sent from my SM-A202F using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  8. This is my baby
    I had too much time in the lockdown (covid19) so I painted the brakes red. Like a teenager would...
    Planing on spending a lot of time and some money to make it look and drive even better. 
    I never thought a Toyota estate would make my heart beat faster, but it does every time! 
    Very nice. Suddenly I feel a touch embarrassed for painting my brakes yellow considering my teenage years are a distant memory lol.

    Sent from my SM-A202F using Tapatalk

  9. Best laid plans and all that.......



    The other day while looking for something completely unrelated I found a tin of grey plastic primer and knew I had half a tin of Toyota metallic silver kicking around so figured I'd use it for an old trick that usually works well I've done many times in the past.


    Painting the part between the clocks and the clear plastic panel body colour takes no time at all. Also it looks really good 9 times out of 10 for the amount of work involved.


    So that was my plan butnin so many ways it just didn't seem to work this time.


    Despite taking due care and preparation the finish between the fuel gauge and speedo looks like a regiment of spiders route marched all over the shop.


    Also the overall texture just looks, well,quite frankly rough cheap as if the plastic is incredibly porous and soaked up half the paint.


    I might try removing it and rubbing the whole thing down with wet n dry sandpaper until the surface is glass like smooth then going over the whole process again.


    Overall, it looks good. With the silver panels around the central dash and the right hand air vent,mirror adjustment and headlight leveller the silver instrument panel adds to the effect.


    The odd failure is good for the soul or so they so bc2e1d366c5ea2bee268d2dede8fb2ec.jpg0428e910d4e98fecb8257915fb56b38a.jpg91ffdd98487b8cc6bca87c173866db6b.jpg


    Sent from my SM-A202F using Tapatalk





    • Like 1

  10. Personally speaking,I spend 45-60 hours a week driving a 26 ton vehicle powered by diesel so have more than enough of them to drive a diesel car but in all truth I've never really understood the urge to run a diesel car unless you regularly tow caravans or boats.

    I understand that there has,for some years now until recently at least,a general trend in favour of diesel through salesmen and even government 'nudges' so it's no wonder a lot of people went down that route,including my parents but even so you couldn't convince me out of my petrol into a diesel.Not that I am now laying back with a smug grin now that diesels are losing their popularity like they're infected with the plague because the future is undoubtedly becoming darker for my beloved petrol engined cars aswell.

    Does it make sense? I think you pretty much answered your own question in that original post.At least,in your own terms and according to what matters to you it definitely doesn't add up but another man's poison etc means it still may make sense to someone else with different concerns although it's hard to imagine how it could but I'm sure it does to someone who does very high mileage or a lot of towing or carrying heavy loads.

    Again,for myself I always far preferred the way the petrol engine delivered it's power to the diesel (yeah,I know modern diesels are much smoother and higher revving but I'm bombing around in a £600 car that's nearly 18 years old,I like old cars and just not prepared to lay out thousands and thousands to buy a diesel that runs like a petrol despite being able to afford it).Petrol engines are lighter,generally handles,brakes and steer better than their equivalent diesel version.Parts are cheaper,petrol is a little bit cheaper and always has been I think and even now my cars is doing an avg of 40-42 mpg which is fantastic considering I've always been happy to get 30mpg out of any of my cars.

    If you do decide to part with your diesel has it lost a lot of it's resale value since the whole 'dirty cheating Volkswagen/anti-diesel' movement has swung into action ?

    In the now approaching 28 years I've been buying and owning cars which is now healithly passed the 75 owned mark (my T22 is 79th,I believe making the old Celica technically number 80.Bought as a parts car though makes it debatable so I don't count it).Over that span of time and the full list of cars I can say with 100% certainty that resale value has never once been a consideration,not even a passing thought but I know that the vast,vast majority of people approach car ownership from a common sense,adult perspective so resale value definitely is an important factor.

    I do feel sorry for all those people who bought diesel cars just as the consensus swung hard against them.Most people would have believed it made more sense because of the obvious generally held opinion that this was the case and who's to say they were wrong.Also just because the consensus has swung 180 degrees that's no reason to accept that the consensus has been corrected from previously being mistaken because the general consensus changes almost always because certain interested parties and their spokesmen tend to want it changed for their own particular agenda.If diesel was such a nonsensical option,more expensive for average use,more epensive to maintain and a lot less cleaner than believed why were they backed by so many parties who were accepted as having a clue.

    I'm not going down the conspiracy path but simply saying that you really should do your own homework and ultimately you're own thinking when it comes down to what actually makes sense for you rather than go with the weight of opinion as that has the habit of doing a 180 in a heartbeat without accepting any responsibility for those that believed in it and listened only to find themselves on the wrong side of the fickle court of public opinion (which isn't worth a litre of diesel if you ask me ).

    • Like 3

  11. large.cameringo_20190903_203700.jpg.d1b55aa6517feef7689183c10cc3a32d.jpglarge.cameringo_20190903_203720.jpg.385e55e54622f62a87f5964c2a57a28d.jpglarge.cameringo_20190903_213931.jpg.02b5dd9cec299b696170e5e374121220.jpglarge.cameringo_20190903_213959.jpg.57456c8d778b2ff740909b19fe5f5138.jpglarge.cameringo_20190903_213938.jpg.a4d3e41d7f1504e9253975a318d2a329.jpglarge.cameringo_20190903_214029.jpg.3c60589ce77fb95cc49ef7d08277f5bd.jpg




    Here's a few photos I took last night.

    First of all I was fitting new rear drop links but as you can see in the photos they are shorter than the ones being replaced.Wrong links?

    Yes and no.They aren't Avensis links but for a Celica but I deliberately bought them as I fitted coilovers all round on my T22 and found that the standard drop links are too long to fit well with the coilovers requiring putting the bar under a great deal of tension by jacking the coilover up into the arch to compress the spring then using my 3 foot breaking bar meant for changing HGV wheel bolts forcing the anti roll bar down as far as possible to make enough distance between the two points of attatchment to make the originals fit.As a loose drop link was flagged up on the recent MOT I bought a Celica link from ebay for a tenner.Once it arrived and turned out to be shorter like I thought it would be I ordered the other and fitted one last night.The other I am about to do shortly,unforetuneately this is my only day off this week and now it's cats and dogs outside....Oh well,it's not like that hasn't been the case a thousand times before 😞

    The other photos being a couple of snaps of my dodgey,untidy interior and a couple examples of shameless advertising.....or well situated owners club stickers lol

  12. Well, we've done it again. She's got anothher years lease of life by passing the MOT monday just gone.


    It took a bit more work than expected including welding both outer sills, new rear caliper, brake hose, brake pipe - obviously the one that requires the petrol tank dropped - discs, pads, handbrake cable, exhaust, tyres to mention a few but again we're legal 😉😉


    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

  13. The photos above were taken earlier this evening.That is a 2ZZ head with the head gasket for a 1ZZ laid over it.While the bolt holes appear to line up fairly well many of the oilways and water passages don't so the 2ZZ head would require modification to align everything up.

    Also,it's not obvious from these pics unforetunately but 2ZZ combustion chambers are s good bit larger than the 1ZZs.You would require them to be reduced in size basically to the reduced bore size of the 1ZZ .

  14. I've worked on, stripped and rebuilt a 1ZZ-FE and in the process of rebuilding and modifying a 2ZZ-GE so I would class that as having experience although I admit I don't have any at attempting to cross polinate the two engines together. 

    I'd have to go and properly examine both engines to be definitive but intuition tells me the fact the bore and stroke alone  is different between the two motors it is going to be very problematic if not next to impossible. 

    I will come back and give a more comprehensive answer after looking at both and determining where the actual problems will arise but what is it you are actually hoping to gain from marrying the two or is simply you have a 1ZZ-FE bottom end and wonder what if? 

  15. On 5/15/2019 at 2:25 PM, furtula said:

    The guy's Finnish, they have quite a distinctive accent.

    Anytime i looked for Toyota related videos, his popped up, but i think he stopped doing Toyotas now and moved to some other brands.

    What an absolutely incredible display of stunning cranial vacancy....I never once made that connection Peter Finn being Finnish yet could it be any simpler.

    Well,I'll take back that remark about the Polish/Eastern European accent as the Finns are a very proud people who insist on no historical or cultural tires with their Scandanavian or Russian neighbours.I think you're right thugh about the brand change,am sure I have noticed those 3 hateful little letters B,M and W being used 😞

  16. This is a silly post really but who here has run across Peter Finn on Youtube?

    Many if not most of you I'm sure so what do you reckon to his channel. I've gone there once or twice and found useful info when I was in doubt but the real joy is the man's english.


    I'm not being cruel or nasty saying that, I. love the way the guy talks and presents his posts. I work with a couple of Polish guys and have worked with many more in the past amd find them to be great folk.


    I'm not sure if Peter is actually Polish or another Eastern European nationality but he makes me smile, a proper warm smile of joy not a mocking one I hasten to add.

    Even if the video is something I know inside out it's still a joy to watch.

    Anyway, I wanted to post that thought as I'm not sure if I have seen him. mentioned here before 😉😉😉


  17. I have this week off work to get my car ready for the annual torture ordeal, quite easily the most stressful part of my whole year.

    I lifted the front carpet to get at the wiring for the rear o2 sensor, well to unclip the multi plus really and allow enough slack. to solder the connection back together.

    That achieved I was horrified to find all the sound deadening soaking wet in the drivers side foot well and rear foot well too.

    I ended up removing all the seats, carpet, trim etc and junking the lot before going over the floor and treating it, the floor was thankfully solid.

    Anyway, am refitting it all now and it crossed my mind with my car so low and 17 inch Celica rims a distant modification, once the rear arches are rolled there's no chance of ever accepting rear passengers. I always joke my Avensis is a 2 seater, I say jok3 but in truth I mean it.

    Now, if I just fail to put the rear seats and belts back in is this an MOT failure. I'm pretty sure if I had belts the seats would be required, well sort of sure but I can't help wondering if there aren't any seats and no belts is it sort of analogous to not having a spare wheel, it isn't there so doesn't need to be legal.

    Any advice would be gratefully appreciated as friday is looming fast. After the test, assuming she goes through the rear seats are coming back out anyway 😉😉


  18. On 4/28/2019 at 2:46 AM, Mike169 said:


    I, years ago had a Celica and the big ends of the engine used to 'rattle' on start up. It ended up the oil filter fitted, a Halfords one, didn't have a non return valve fitted where as a genuine Toyota one did so I did an oil (Good quality) and genuine Toyota oil filter change and all was cured, hope this helps. The Halfords parts book said the filter fitted was he correct one but on this occasion the man's book was wrong.


    Wow, who'd have thought that the Halfords one size fits all book isn't really up to the job lol.

    The partabout Toyota filter and quality Oil is very important with these ZZ motors. Now that I have all but cured my 1ZZ of it's thirsty Oil habit, changing the PCV and chain tensioner it'll be getting Toyota parts and good quality Oil. I used Castrol Magnatec in one of my Cavy XE motors and within 5000 miles the cam wear accelerated rapidly so I'm really not keen on that stuff but the best I can get for sure.

    Especially seeing as it has 187,000+ miles on it and despite the fact it is getting hoiked out and replaced with a 2ZZ I would love to take her to the 200,000 mile mark seeing as I was the one that topped 100,000 on this car, seems fitting 😉😉

    The Celica with the Halfords filter, was that the same one that had rattling big ends?

    If so did the change help, seems to me if they were rattling before then the damage is done, all the Wynns, STP and £55 for 4 litres hyper Oil in the world won't cure loose big ends.

    Although, I have a mate who's a mad biker and swears by some Oil or Oil additive they use on the councils grass cutting machines that can seal anything and cure cancer so fixing big ends would be a cinch for his miracle stuff. Funny, he doesn't use it on his 900cc HoKawasusuki race thing he worships lol.



  19. Thanks Konrad,I've just been checking out the 2ZR-FAE and it sounds interesting.Have heard of 'Valvematic' but had a quick look at it in the past so be good to go back and investigate how it works properly.Very few engines are perfect,for sure except the 20XE (Vauxhall/GM Redtop) and Cosworth YBB found in all your RS Cosworth Sierras,the Vauxhall XE was designed by Cosworth aswell so that probably explains everything lol.

    I think your friend made the wrong choice with the 2002 1ZZ-FE Celica because the chances of it having it's nuts thrashed off for most of it's life are so much higher than in the case of an Avensis but I cannot fault him for making heart over head choices when it comes to cars,that's why I've owned many of the cars I always wanted Sapphire Cosworth,RS1600i,Cavalier SRi130,GSi2000,SRi6v,mk2 GTE 16v,2,8 Capri & 3.0S ,2,0S,mk1 XR2 and so on with the exception of an RS2000 mk2 and Manta GT/E but there's still time lol.Those choices have always cost me much more than is sensible and caused all kinds of headaches but worth it to me 🙂

    As for Oil the mechanic is absolutely correct,fully syntheti but the correct grade also.As mine wqs going through it quite rapidly I long since stopped buying Magnatec or some other such all singing and dancing 'quality' Oil and have used Tesco fully synthetic instead.At £20 for 4 litres it at least isn't costing an arm and a leg while clearly being up to the task.You can't buy a specifically Toyota mix but they sell an Audi/Peugeot one,Vauxhall and something else compatible whilst the Ford grade is the correct one for the 1ZZ-FE.Keeping it topped up all the time plus a complete change of Oil and filter every 3000-3500 miles has kept my motor running for nearly the last 75,000 miles.I say nearly not because the engines worn but it's nearly but not quite 75,000 i've done since I got it lol.

    It seems though from what I've read the 2ZZs can have Oil issues of their own also.The Celica I went down to Edinburgh to buy had 185,000ish miles too.The lad was busy telling me all about the things he'd had done;grooved/drilled discs,dropped 30mm alll round,KN induction,a fancy cat back exhaust as well as being quite confused when I didn't ask a host of questions or seem particularly interested.He didn't know I wanted it to strip the good stuff from then scrap the rest.It became clear the guy had real affection for the car so I didn't have the heart to tell him,

    Disturbingly enough though when I sked how it was for Oil consumption he looked surprised and stated 'funny,another guy asked me that too' then went on to proudly proclaim he hadn't needed to put it any Oil for the last 2 years but there was a jug of old engine Oil in the boot just incase.I  should have walked away because I discovered nce I got outside the city and found some services to pull into there wasn't enough to make the minimum mark and the can old oit in the boot had about a coke cansworth left.I had always intended to strip the engine and rebuild it so as long as it got me back.Here's where some more in depth research would have helped because it turns out that the MMC coating on the cylinder bores means it can't be honed or rebored and if it's scratched or the coating had worn through then it's total scrap. I found that the cam lobes and rockers on the inlet side were all worn flat aswell.

    So all new rocker gear,new inlet cam,a new short block aswell were all expenses I hadn't factored in.So being fixated on the end goal or letting your heart rule your head so often comes with a high price yet after 25 years of making these mistakes I still make them.I cannot find fault with your friend but again I wouldn't have gone with the 1ZZ-FE Celica due to the way it's probably been driven for the last 16-17 years.Then again there are precious little outward signs that it's an Oil guzzler.With mine the plugs are clean,the O2 sensors functioning,no Oil staining on the tailpipe.Nothing that could warn you of it's lust for Oil when you go out and buy a 2nd hand one,Even a compressiom test would inspire confidence rather than be a warning,Again,it's an enigma in a lot of ways as all the classic signs aren't there yet it's going somewhere.I've significantly improved the consumption with mine by changing the PCV plus I've always suspected it's leaking near the chain tensioner but is not visible as it's behind the timing chain cover but almost always the back driverside corner by the master cylinder/power steering pump is always thick with old Oil on many Avensis's I've looked at so that's the other area where it looses Oil,IMO.

    I'd definitely advise your friend to check that area plus clean out all the breather hoses,throttle body,outlets in the rocker/cam cover plus for just £9 fit an new PCV whether you believe it to be working or not.Plus always,always,always use the right grade of fully synthetic Oil - 5W30.I can't remember the emmisions code/requirement off hand but I'll look at the unoped 4 litres in my boot and come back an edit this to add it in.That Oil has been there for 4 weeks unopened which is so hard to believe after 70 odd thousand miles of Oil issues so I'd suggest to him it's worth trying,what's he got to lose by trying it,

    When you say you see few T22s is the facelifted T22s you are unsure of the engines,T25s or facelifted Celicas.Facelifted T22s had the 1.6 and 1,8 vvt-i engine although the 1.8,like mine has the 127bhp version of the 1ZZ-FE whereas the Celica has the 143bhp version.The only physical difference I could find between them being the Avensis has 2 precats in the exhaust manifold with 2 pre cat 02 sensors and one downstream whereas the Celica has a more conventional 4 to 1 style exhaust manifold with an 02 either side of the cat.The valve timing/phaser is exactly the same as are the cylinders,valves,compression ratio etc though I imagine the ECU is programmed slightly differently to suit the Celicas more performance orientated image.Also the T22s used the 2,0 vvt-i that is not a ZZ motor and apparently has none of the issues that plagued the 1ZZ and 3ZZ.Obviously there was a diesel too but I don't know anything about them except it's the D4E (i think lol) I know my old man had an 04 Rav4 with that engine then the harmonically balanced flywheel went on it which is common I hear with that engine.T25s have the same engines as far as I know but I'm not sure if the Celica ever had a change from the 1ZZ and 2ZZ when facelifted.

    Funny enough,a silver 2002 T22 Avensis pulled into my work today,in fact the same one that's in the photos I posted recently to the Avensis Photo thread.I can think of at least 2 more Silver ones near here plus a metallic Blue one.I regularly see 2 pre facelifted T22s around Wick and Thrumster aswell so they're still plodding on.All the write ups suggest that although good it wasn't as indestructable as the Carina E it replaced but there's still many a 20 year old Avensis on the road and these aren't restored modern classics or the kind of car that people took to their hearts but day in day out workhorses that keep on going,I'm quite shocked at how much some are asking on ebay for a T22 in decent condition with many going for over £2000 or more.

    It's that unloved,overlooked attitude towards the T22 that endears me to mine plus with the volume of bad press you read online about the vvt-i versions just makes it seem like the honest underdog that was badly underestimated.See,there's another bad viewpoint towards cars,anthropomorphisising them.I'm a lost cause lol

    • Like 1

  20. I'd absolutely check out your Oil level,the condition of it aswell as overall engine condition long before suspecting the sensor,There;s very little that can go wrong with them in fact I can't remember when I've had an issue with them.They're binary,the tend either to work or not work at all.Very little room for any 'working but not properly' middle territory there.

    Anyway,the sensor will be positioned somewhere around the housing where your Oil filter screws into.You should find a typical sensor that looks very similar to your coolant temperature sensor as they're basically the same kind of sensor although you'll find the Oil pressure sensor may be a little wider depending on type.Either way it'll almost certainly have a single wire connected to it and will be somewhere very near where the Oil filter screws in,I mean within several inches or less.

    Again though the way the light is coming on it sounds very reminiscent of worn big end bearings or mains even.

    Do you get any excessive noise on the over-run? What I mean is if yiou rev the engine in neutral does there sound like a rattling or 'looseness' at the point when you lift of the throttle and the revs peak the drop,The engine should quieten down the second the revs fall but if there is as I said a rattling,vibration,a looseness (I'm not quite sure how else to explain it) or perhaps a delay in the sound of the engine as if it keeps revving after it peaks and engine speed dies,I know I'm not explaining it very well but you would know exactly what I mean if you heard it.It's like a chattering after you ease off but not like a light sound as in tappets but much lower and heavier than that.Anyway,if you do hear something in anyway similar it means your big end bearings are wearing out and I have to say by the way you describe the pressure light behaving that is what it sounds like.

    Then again,not being there to hear it and see it in action I may be picking it up wrong but whatever the situation an Oil light coming on at any time is never anything but bad news.The old school know how we were always taught when we were younger was that if the Oil pressure light comes on the damage has already happened but that isn't strictly true but true enough that the problem needs to be determined ad fixed before using the car again,You canNOT take chances with Oil,believe me there are several Fiestas and a Cortina in the scrapyard that prooved those words fact before I'd turned 20 lol.

    Check your Oil level,check your Oil condition.Do you know when the filter and Oil was last changed.As a rule of thumb in the owners manual that comes new with the car they'll give recommended Oil change times in either miles or years whichever you reach first.They'll quote recommendations for normal driving conditions/weather and reduced advice for heavy or excessive driving conditions.Although it appears to be talking to the contrary you should go by the heavy usage recommendation rather than the normal ones because for normal read ideal and heavy read typical meaning change it at the very most,filter and Oil 3,000 - 5,000 miles especially if your right foot happens to be the leaded kind.

    So before checking the sensor change your Oil,change your filter and it may be useful to run some engine flush through it and of your engine has a high mileage then seeing as it's a '95 and not a 2001+ spec you could try adding some Oil additive such as Wynns which is excellent for older high mileage engines.They say never use additives in a car with a catalytic converter but I've never had an issue with the more basic OBD1/EOBD 92-01 pre OBD2 cars.

    • Thanks 1

  21. It's been a while since I last posted and I'm still going ahead with my T22 2ZZ-GE 6-speed build but it's been on hold since febuary due to lack of funds.Had to buy a new block,inlet cam,full rocker gear,a number of valves etc,etc,etc.My focus has been on my impending MOT as if she fails that then I won't have the T22 component of my project and it's kind of integeral.Rear brakes,miscellaneous annoying glitches,corroded outer sills near the rear arches both sides - I have to admit that that was the thing that concerned me most of all because in my experience you cut away the rotten outer sills only to find even more corroded inner sills.I am extremely happy to report that in this case my inners are 100% rust free with not even surface rust to be found.Due to the various problems needed attended to and a 55 hour + working week right now the 2ZZ has taken a back seat but I thought I'd address that first of all incase it was assumed I wasn't bringing it up because I wasn't prepared to admit to failure publicly.....that may well yet happen as it appears more complex than it seemed when just existing in my mind lol.

    No,this post is all about Konrad's favourite engine (I couldn't resist that one lol) my 187,000 mile 1ZZ-FE.True to form yet also perplexingly it is using Oil.In any other engine I've had before I came across the vvt-i it would be a significant and even horrifying amount but after a number of years of living with it it's barely even noteworthy,I'm going through nearly 2 pints/1 litre of Oil anywhere between 1500-2000 miles depending on my right foot and how far I go into the rev range.

    Well,the 1ZZ is notorious you may say,the very first thing you associate the pre 2005 1.6 and 1.8 vvt-is with is drinking Oil like it's going out of fashion and you would be right to say so.It's become legendary for going through Oil frighteningly rapidly so perplexing.Why?

    I've been arguing for some time that the claim it uses or burns through it's Oil are perhaps often a case of seeing what you expect to see.It's got this reputation,it's going through it's lubricant in a hurry therefore it's burning it just like everybody says it will.Yet. If I remove my plugs there are no signs of Oil on them,to quote the Stranglers they're Golden Brown.Well,sandy brown like every Haynes manual says they should be if healthy,The tailpipe isn't soaked in Oil.My 02 sensors,all 3 of them aren't being upset by all that burnt Oil coming down the exhaust pipe.Also,when Maplins had they're closing down sale,a particular shame if you ask me,I bought one of those telescopic gizmos with the camera on the end that are ideal for threading down a spark plug hole to examine the combustion chambers and to my surprise they looked pretty clean for an engine with 187,000 miles on it and especially for an Oil burner.

    So logically what this tells me is my missing Oil isn't being burned or the majority isn't,some will be obviously like all engines including 7A-FE's.Put it this way I've owned several XR3i's and a mk2 XR2 so have had the pleasure of Ford's CVH engine more than once.Now they DO burn Oil and the evidence is everywhere to be seen.In fact,I associate the smell of an Oil burning engine with XRs they're that bad once they pile on the miles.A bit off topic but I have to counter that with stating I also owned a mk3 RS1600i with a much better version of the CVH and the difference is so stark it has to experienced to be believed.It's honestly a fact,there is a good CVH engine out there but only in the RS1600i - which is also one of Ford's best cars ever along with the Sapphire RS Cosworth,Mk1 XR2 and Capri 2.0S and 3.0S.Anyway,I know an oily old engine when I smell one and mine isn't like that.

    Yet there's no signs at all that it's leaking Oil either.I've yet to find the smallest patch of Oil left on the ground despite owning it some 5 or 6 years now possibly 7.So where the hell is it going,

    Now,as a matter of course I always remove that black cladding from the underside of the bonnet every car I've owned as it absorbs heat whilst a polished up underside of the bonnet is a far better sight especially when I've cleaned and polished all the body coloured metal in the engine bay.What I've noticed for some time is that the silver body coloured metal becomes stained with what looks like Oil vapour.Imagine someone smoking 100 fags a day then blowing the smoke towards the window,If you can picture how covered in a film of tar that window would become then that's how my engine bays looks despite cleaning it all off regularly.

    Ok,this is interesting as it suggests that I've got crankcase breather issues or a knackered PCV.I removed the PCV a long time back and tested it in the fashion that every Haynes and countless web articles tell you to.Shake it and if you can hear it rattle it's ok.There's very little to go wrong.if you hear the pintle valve rattling then you're golden.I've checked it any amount of times as well as all the hoses,outlets etc in the breathers and never found anything amiss yet excessive Oil vapour strongly suggests a breather issue.What tends to happen is the PCV becomes stuck and unable to open up fully the crankcase becomes over pressured and forces the gases out of any badly sealed gasket it can fiind,often the rocker cover or timing cover gaskets being the typical suspects.

    Anyway,stubbornly I've always suspected my PCV is one of the main factors behind my Oil use/loss despite the tried and tested method suggests it's in perfect working order.Then a few weeks back I was browsing on ebay and seen PCVs for the 1ZZ-FE on sale for a staggering £9.Unforetunately I'm a smoker still and that's the same price as 20 cigarettes.What the hell.just buy a new one and if it doesn't do anything at all I've not exactly broke the bank and I'll learn something at the very least even if it's simply that you're wrong the PCV is fine.

    I ordered it from ebay,interestingly the same night I ordered a new fancy MIG welder from Amazon.The welder was here,the top of Scotland mind you,in less than 48 hours while it took over 2 weeks to recieve the valve but get it eventually I did.I love all those sellers on ebay because invariably they all say free postage on mainland UK except the Highlands of Scotland yet I'm pretty sure we are still connected to the rest of the UK landmass,there's no wide body of water south of Perth that you need to get a ferry or flight to travel south but hey ho.

    It took perhaps 2 or 3 minutes to change the valve,the most time consuming and tricky part being locating where I'd left my 22mm spanner (or was it a 19mm I can't remember now,that's terrible lol).

    I can reliably report in the month since changing it that my Oil consumption has reduced dramatically and within days my avg mpg went from mid 37's to just over 41 mpg over all driving conditions.Beforehand I tended to drive in a way to try and maintain that 37ish mpg yet since I changed the valve my right foot has become so much heavier but is up at 41 mpg.I must admit I wasn't anticipating any reduction in fuel consumption although if I'd thought about it it does follow that fuel usage would improve even so who'd have expected such a rapid and dramatic improvement.Of course,you always have to keep in mind correlation doesn't necessaryily proove causation so can I say definitively that's the direct result of changing the PCV obviously not but considering nothing else whatsoever was changed except this one specific variable it really does appear to be the cause.Taken along with the reduced Oil use which if I wasn't directly expecting I was strongly hoping for.

    It all depended on whether contrary to recieved wisdom there was some issue with my PCV despite the rattle being taken as proof the valve is working properly.In my mind,it was quite possible that the spring that would normally keep the valve in the closed position until crankcase pressure overcomes the spring tension to open it and allow the gases to flow through to the throttlebody could have become weak possibly unable to keep the valve closed at all or at least weak enough that it took much less pressure to open it up.If that was the case it would still rattle once removed and shaken to test it.How would you test for a weak spring - well if you have a flow bench or bicycle pump perhaps lol.

    Amyway,I thought it was interesting enough to make it worth a mention and I've never needed an excuse to defend the reputation of the 1ZZ-FE engine especially against all you cynical devoted 7A people lol.Plus it's always good when you have a hunch about the cause of something even when the professionals say that there's no problem.It's great to be shown to be right and is the exception not the rule so I have to glory in it when I can lol.

    Bob. 😁😁😁

    • Like 1