fastbob72

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Tutorial Comments posted by fastbob72


  1. A very simple way to reduce the amount of condensation that can build up inside the car is to leave your front windows slightly open as this allows the circulation of air.

    Of course, if you live in a built up urban or city area and park the car in the street then you may not be keen on that idea. Living in the middle of nowhere I don't always lock my car overnight when it's in my drive so leaving the windows open by an inch or a half inch is no big deal.


    Having stripped out my A/C completely I don't have it to aid the ridding of moist air particularly heading into work at 4.30.or 5 am so rely on the old fashioned heater and an open window.

    Speaking of windows I wholeheartedly agree with the point about keeping the windows as spotlessly clean as possible.

    Never mind the condensation there are so many very good reasons to take the extra time to do your windows that there's no real excuse not to.


    Vastly improved visibility being the critical and most obvious reason but when I say vastly I'm not exaggerating at all.Windows get dirtier over time so you tend not to notice how dirty they've become.


    Like all the most annoying and mundane chores in life if you do it regularly you find that it takes less effort each time. Do it weekly in 15 minutes or twice that and more if you leave it months at a time.

    As an ex-valeter I can also add that clean windows make a bigger difference to the overall look of your car than anything else. Obviously it won't make up for dent, scratches and rust spots but a nice car with clean windows looks 100 times better than a nice car with dirty windows.

    Sounds stupid, one of those things self confessed experts always seem to come out with but you'd be surprised at how much things that people don't consciously notice about a car contribute to the overall impression. If ever you're selling your car and are short on time, do the windows and the door shuts properly and just wash it, it'll pay dividends lol.

     


  2. Hello,thought I'd reply to your questions seeing as no one else has tried to help although as I don't like either automatics or 4WDs I may not seem like the one to try to help.

    Ah well, we'll see.

    Ok,it's a full time 4WD which means it will have a centre differential unlike selectable 'part time' 4WD.

    P,R,N,D,2,L : Park - for when you're leaving the vehicle. R - Reverse gear, N - Neutral for sitting in ques of traffic or at junctions (I imagine), D - Drive for standard driving, 2 - Drive 2 I think it uses two gears instead of the normal amount or perhaps it's more for economy driving, L - Low Range As in geared for more acceleration or possibly for towing trailers or caravans though that's a guess I'm afraid.


    H,HL,N,LL - I'm guessing this stand for High, High Locked, Normal,Neutral?, Low Locked. Locked most likely refering to your centre diff which is often an option on full time 4WD vehicles that are designed to be capable Off Roaders.

    Your mechanic is right to a certain degree but as you said it's a full time 4WD so you have no option but to always drive in 4WD. When he says not to try 4WD on the pavement road he must be referring to the HL and LL settings when the diff is locked.Driving on road with the centre diff locked is a BAD, BAD idea.

    Full time 4WD cars can drive on the road specifically because they have that centre differential which allows the front and back wheels to turn at different speeds.This is required for everyday driving and cornering at typical road speeds.

    It's also why when cars have part time selectable 4WD they should not be driven on road in 4WD because they don't have a centre diff.

    The centre diff allows that difference in the turning speeds between the front and back wheels. Without it the fact that both axles are turning at the same fixed speed means that there will be extra stress and axle wind up during normal driving conditions like cornering and turning at speed.


    When off road however the centre diff lock is of much greater advantage.

    HL would be best used while driving on snowy,icy,muddy or loose gravelly surfaces where you would be off road driving at higher speeds.


    LL for steep gradients,over rocky or rough surfaces where you're typically driving at much reduced speeds.When in Low Range there is greater torque delivered to the wheels but increased torque doesn't mean increased traction in fact on loose, slippery, icy, snowy and muddy surfaces greater torque will normally greatly increase the loss of traction.

    Low Range is ideal for towing heavy loads or like I suggested on very rough off road surfaces i.e rocky,uneven or steep tracks.


    Using HL on road will promote wheel spin and not advisable. Using N or LL probably has some failsafe in built designed so if you try to use it on road it automatically stops the drive going to the wheels and causing damage.


    The N setting I'm unsure what it means Normal, Neutral??


    As for the warning light A/T P it's simply letting you know it is in Park - Automatic Transmission Park. i.e you need to engage D, D2, L.

    Anyway, I hope this helps a little.

     

    I found this website 4x4abc.com quite interesting and with some useful articles.

     

     

     

     


  3. Having been a professional valeter in the past I've always tended to use a steam genie when washing my car.

    For those that have a diy power washer like a Karcher then my advice would be to clean the car down with med to high pressure cold water,lots of it.Particularly up under the wheel arches,lower body,sills,rubbing strips to really get all that loose grit n road dirt off.

    Note.Always keep the nozzle at least a foot,preferably 2 back from the area you're cleaning !!!

    If you have the option use med to high pressure med hot with car cleaner (not hottest maximum heat,I've seen paintwork lifted off like wallpaper with a steamer before,especially on plastic body coloured mouldings !!).

    Thoroughly attend to the problem areas,lower body,sills,bumpers with the pressurised hot shampoo using a mitt with your bucket of clean shampoo n water to remove real stubborn areas of dirt.

    Thoroughly rinse with pressurised cold water from the roof down taking time to rinse door shuts,rubbing strips,around the roofline and tailgate as soap loves to collect here.

    Once you've fully rinsed the car I still prefer to dry it with a good old fashioned and somewhat maligned chamois leather of good quality.

    Keep it in a bucket of cold,clean water so it''s thoroughled wet when you begin.Wring it out and run slowly and methodically over the entire bodywork,wringing it out after every application.

    The thing with a chamois is to make sure the dirt has been removed before you start and you keep the leather scrupulously clean ~ but that equally applies to mitts,sponges,clothes or anything else.

    Once it's been dried with a chamois any damp areas will quickly air dry but if you're impatient you can't beat an old fashioned paper towel,particularly for glass !!!

    When it comes to maintaining the wax coat I personally wouldnt go to the effort of power or hand washing my car without applying a layer or two,at the very least of wax afterwards !!