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Everything posted by brainii

  1. so I have an update. took the car for MOT suspension testing. 1) suspension is fine. 2) also checked lower arm and anti roll bar and look fine. 3) checked hole, it's not enlarged. I ended up ordering a new bush/link screw at a cost of 16 euro+vat, I hope it lasts. if that too fails, to the dealership it is (went there originally, it's closed for summer holidays for the next 2 weeks).
  2. look this video guys. exactly what my mechanic did, but without removing tyre from car. look the part too, looks exactly the same
  3. gonna take it to the dealership i think next week to sort it out properly
  4. my mechanic doesnt have that type of lift, only the one with the 4" arms". also, used drill to tighten the bolt until snug both times
  5. i took all pics with the car sitting on a mostly flat surface (my driveway, tiny slope towards the rear wheels), straight steering. ok, so: 1) wrong installation? 2) bend lower arm or anti roll bar? 3) someone suggested enlarged hole on the lower arm and to weld metal o ring on top of hole? 4) bad shock or spring?
  6. Ok, so a few years back, passenger side sunvisor broke and would stay down (due to plastic breaking and metal springy part pushing out of plastic cover). Second hand ones nowhere to be found, I bought a new one from Toyota at the price of 48 Euro. Last week driver's sunvisor broke (exactly the same problem), now they want 71 Euro. Hell NO. I phoned around, again couldn't find a used one anywhere, seems it's common issue. So, long story short, I fixed it up with a couple of bolts, see pics. Here are the steps: 1) remove the sunvisor from car. Plastic cover has 4 clips diagonally, unlcip those with small flathead, then pull down, whole thing will come out. 2) Hold plastic parts firmly, then turn the part with the clip anti clockwise until the spring goes back inside the plastic (u will know as when it's back in, as u will be able to close the plastic parts fully when you push the 2 sides together). 3) Drill holes between the 2 plastic parts. 4) Insert nut and bolt and tighten. Cut bolt to length. 5) Reinstall. It will now work perfectly. ugly? Sure (when sunvisor open, when closed u can't tell a thing.) If you are careful u can make this fix almost invisible - by hiding the nut under the cover, I wasn't, I was angry and in a hurry and couldn't care less about appearances as long as it worked. Functional? 100%
  7. I'm thinking that too, though visually there is nothing there. 1) One think I remembered, was about a month ago I went for an oil change to a different mechanic, he lifted the car up using a floor jack, then he used a jack stand for safety, but when he finished and lowered the car he forgot about the jack stand and the car "fell" on the jack stand with a loud metal noise. he then lifted it back up, removed the stand and I drove off, I asked and he didn't say anything was broken (he wouldn't ofc! Obviously, I will never be going back to him in the future..) but I didn't notice any clunking noises until recently.I also mentioned this to my usual mechanic, he said it's highly improbable that this would generate so much force as to bend something and that if something was indeed bend would be due to falling in a pothole at speed. 2) Is it possible the bushing fails due to a wrong installation (they lift the car, unscrew bolt, place new rubber between frame and arm, reinstall and tighten bolt, lower car. Is this the normal procedure?
  8. guys cmon, it's essentially just a rubber bushing, I know used ones would be less strong than a brand new one but I checked both used ones (my mechanic of 15 years did as well and I trust him and anyways, he wouldn't fit them only to replace them after 1 day or so, he also charged me only 10 euro total for both, both times, he replaced also the metal screw and it's nuts that goes between the bushing), they were both solid when fitted, no cracks or anything. I'm not fitting a new one (at whatever ridiculous price Mitsubishi is charging for a piece of rubber) as whatever is destroying them in just a few km, will surely destroy the original one as well (the first one was original). Don't forget, the one on the other side is still the original one, the car also has only 30000 km on it. It's obvious (at least in my logic) that something else is wrong on the driver side. I'm gonna go test the suspension at an MOT station as soon as I return from holidays then take it from there.
  9. This not about a toyota car (but it should apply to many cars in general) and also since so many guys are car knowledgeable here goes: I got 2009 Mitsubishi Colt, I noticed some metal clunking noises when over bumps or when turning fast etc. I check springs, look ok. I check bushing, totally gone on the driver's side. See pic 1. I go to the mechanic, he replaces it (with a used one from another exact same car), clunking sound goes away. The very next day I hear the metal sound again. I check again, BUSHING gone again. I go in again a 3rd time, he replaces it again for free with another used one. I drive 5km, go home, check again and I see this: bushing looks cracked and half gone just by driving 5km in a straight road. What in the world is going on here? Mechanic suggested if this bushing is gone too, it could be the shock and is somehow stuck/defective/not always working (we did a bounce test, it looks ok and it's not leaking oil) and that I should check the suspension at an MOT station (he also suggested ordering tougher bushing made by some teflon material if i remember correctly). However, the bushing on the passenger side is still perfectly fine, I'm also suspecting the suspension or some other issue like a bend frame or something? (but car was never in an accident, drives straight, tyres are wearing normally, frame looks straight etc) I'm buffled, please help!!! thanks
  10. hey guys, I got about 200gbp available to spend on parts from my local dealer as I paid the fuel pump/leak fix which was later covered under a new recall in Cyprus. I don't want to buy oil/filters and such as they are at least double the price compared to my local independent mechanic. I'm looking for an upgrade of some sorts /one off thing (like a better radio??, touch screen??) or maybe something under parts/maintenance that only the Toyota dealer can do (or do better) than the independent mechanic. Car has about 80k km on it. any ideas?
  11. strangely enough, wife reported that the sound is now gone (we didn't do anything at all). Thanks for the replies. I'll monitor to see if it returns.
  12. hey mates, so, I recently noticed that the switch for the driver's side power window makes a strange/abnormal noise that didn't happen before. The sound is heard as soon as the window closes fully. Also, the sound is heard when the window is closed and u press the switch to close it again (and it's not the usual sound). it's coming from the mechanism on the driver's door, under the power window switches. to my ears it's like the mechanism is still pushing the window after it's closed for 1 second more and stressing? The passenger side window doesn't make this noise (not when pushing the passenger side switch nor the switch on the driver's side for the passenger window either). I remember there was a global Toyota recall for this and my car did get called in and they replaced some grease or something but that was like 10 years ago. Anyone had this happen to their car? thanks
  13. called local Toyota. 103 EUR for the cylinder + labor. I will do nothing,except maybe try the syringe method, unless it stops working all together (I'm guessing several years from now). thanks all for the replies
  14. wow, what an instructable, I much prefer buying a new car to doing all that 🙂
  15. guys not that it matters but it's a 2007 manual auris. I have 2 keys, both are original, both do not look worn and both have exactly the same issue, I think it's the tumblers of the cylinder that are worn, I wonder how much toyota charges to change it...
  16. well, I searched 2 large DIY shops for pure graphite powder, no luck, I sprayed some graphite containing oil in there, played around with the key etc, it now turns more easily, but still sort of gets stuck, is there a permanent solution?
  17. Hi friends, turning the key to start the car has been more and more difficult, it goes in fine, trying to turn (steering wheel NOT locked) it seems to catch somewhere / resist, have to turn it back and forth a few times to get it to actually turn and start the car. Did someone have this issue and what's the remedy? I'm thinking to add some lube in the keyhole (probably DRY lube) to see if it will help.
  18. I'm pretty sure it's done from the inside of the car, in mine they just removed the back seats.
  19. that's a pretty interesting idea and I will try it out.
  20. the vents are clearly visible from the inside of the boot when you remove the cover for the tyre jack. water hosing on the outside shows no water coming in.
  21. I've had this problem on my 2007 auris 1.4, petrol smell and dangerous as could lead to a spark/fire/explosion. Local Toyota made me pay for the fix but after my complaints and persistence and reference to the recall, they contacted Toyota Europe or UK, who now (after 3 months) offered me store credit for the amount of the fix (no refund sadly) and extended the recall to cover my car and other cars as well.
  22. Yes, and it's not the vents.
  23. Hi all with an update. After the latest silicone attempt, and heavy rain, there is STILL some small amount of water coming in from somewhere other than the tail lights / boot. I went inside the boot, with someone power hose-ing the entire area, not a drop went in so the silicone fix is working. So, I'm thinking that the water is coming in from the underside of the car somehow. I noticed that under the spare tyre, those plastic sealant "welds" are cracked. Could water be entering from there? or from an other area underneath the car, like under rear bumper or something? Any1 any input?
  24. don't know about that but I will say that im 40 years old, and this is the only car I bought that had water leakage. Will not be buying Toyota's no more.