NorbyG

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About NorbyG

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  • Toyota Model
    1.8 VVTI 140
  • Location
    Hertfordshire
  1. NorbyG

    Shock Absorbers

    He didn't say they were dangerous. But said; if he does the MOT he will fail them; where 2 other MOT stations said; light seepage causing a film of fluid on a shock absorber is not a reason for rejection. So, if he wasn’t trying to put one over on me, well I don’t know... He let me go on my way because I weren't naive to let him do the job. And yes; they'll do and try all sorts to rip people off! I sure there are trust worthy garages, but it's a job to find them! I’m 67 years old; worked as an apprentice motor mechanic (for a year); had and driven cars since I was 20; and been ripped off before by garages. I also read and heard so many complaints from other motorist about being ripped off by garages, so one tends not to trust them. I stay away from garages, as I don’t trust them either. I do nearly all of my repairs and servicing myself (with some help from forums); and the only reason I took car to have brake fluid change, was because I didn’t have time...and proper machine/equipment to clean moister out of system. I now wish I had stayed and watch him (supposedly) changed brake fluid.
  2. NorbyG

    Shock Absorbers

    Here's another link for you Parts-King http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=3584833 &
  3. NorbyG

    Shock Absorbers

    I was never any good at spelling, etc...as I'm dyslexic. I always use word spelling & grammar checker, but it seemed it didn't pick up on it. The bleed nipples and around the areas looks clean but no signs of fluid on nipple or in caps. For your info. Parts-King, it does happen... Check this link out (pay attention to WD40) http://bbs.scoobynet.com/non-scooby-related-4/851392-kwik-fit-getting-a-pounding-on-watchdog.html Oh, he definitely wanted the job, but couldn't hold my car or force me to do anything. I was there; you weren't!
  4. I recently took my Celica to a garage to have brake fluid changed. I was asked do I want to wait or come back. I asked how long would it take; and was told about 45 mins; so I went for a walk and returned in 30 mins and noticed the car was parked on the road. I thought that they hadn’t started the job yet, but it was finished. I paid the mechanic (owner); then he told me that I needed couple of front shock Absorbers as they were leaking. I said no way they were leaking, as I would have noticed when I was replacing the front brake pads (the day before) as both rubber gaiters are split! I then pushed down on each side of front of car and it only bounced once; but when he done it, it bounced 3 times. I said; it was going for the MOT in couple of days and I’d see if they fail it. He said; he would fail it if he tested it. So, it got me thinking... Did mechanic changed brake fluid??? Is it usual for both shocks to leak at same time??? Or, could he have sabotaged both of them to con me/make money, by me giving him the job??? I took car for MOT and it passed; but was told, he couldn’t fail it as he didn’t know how long they’ve been leaking; but advise me to replace them soon. My suspicions were still there...so I went back to MOT station a few days later and asked a tester; how do they test for shock Absorbers wear in the MOT. He pushed down on front sides of car and car only bounced once; then he told me they were ok. I then told him about my suspicions... I asked; does the warning on MOT certificate still apply? He said: I should clean and keep an eye on them for 3 months and if no further sign of leakage, then they would take the warning off the Mot certificate.
  5. The other piston is fine - it goes back quite easily (using G-Clamp) with nipple closed. If it's the hose that's collapsed; why then when I tap calliper with wood (just slightly) it free the pads from binding? I mentioned this to the mechanic and he's now saying; it could be the calliper slider sticking slightly. But I've already established that the calliper operates freely on its slider. Probably problem is with both hose and calliaper!
  6. I'm having problem as yours on my 2003 gen 7. I felt a sudden heavy vibration in steering wheel on my 2003 gen 7 Celica. At first, I thought it was wheel balancing or uneven road surface (which is very bad in my area); but discovered later, burning smell from nearside (left) front wheel, all 5 lug nuts loose, whole wheel very hot, break binding. I had driven about 15 miles on 2 occasions when I experienced the vibration. But the vibration wasn't there all the time - only at certain speeds and road surface, which made me think it was just wheel balancing; (checked other wheels everything ok). Don’t know how long brake was binding for though. It seems the piston is not retracting under normal operation so causing the binding. As to the nuts coming loose; I think it is because of the heat from the wheel; as if you apply heat to tight nuts and bolts they would normally come loose - that is what mechanics seems to do when they find nuts and bolts are difficult to undo. Am I right? Piston hard to push back with G-Clamp when bleeder valve is locked (leaving around 6mm sticking out of the housing), but easy to push back (all the way) with G-Clamp when bleeder valve is released. But when applied brake again and again pads stays on; but when I tapped calliper with a piece of wood each time, the pads releases. I’m puzzled...as calliper is free and slides as it should when checked against opposite wheel. The opposite wheel is ok - pads on that still 6mm thick; while pads on problem brake are only 3mm thick. I was told by a garage mechanic; that the brake hose has collapse on the inside...and I should have both left and right hoses replaced, even though the right brake is ok; and brake system should be flushed/replaced with new brake fluid, as it may have boiled from the heat, and also may have moisture in it. Even though the outside of hose looks in very good condition, could it collapse on the inside? The car has covered only 5k in past 2 years, and has a total of 70k on clock. If you eventually had your sorted, can you please share the cure with me?
  7. Thanks for all your help. I've booked the car into garage to have the whole brake system inspected/sorted.
  8. I’m still trying to repair brake... Piston hard to push back into cylinder when bleed nut is locked, but easy to go back (all the way) without any resistance when bleed nut is released. But when applied brake again and again pads stays on; but when I tap calliper with a piece of wood the pads releases. I’m puzzled...as calliper is free and slides as it should when checked against opposite wheel. The opposite wheel is ok - pads on that still 6mm thick; while pads on problem brake are only 3mm thick. I noticed there’s a block under the bonnet where brake pipes are connected to. What is it, and its purpose? Could it be that something is wrong with that hence the problem? By the way; the disc is not warped.
  9. Had look at it yesterday: took wheel off - brake pads/disc were binding (need new brake pads, worn down to about 3mm) - took the calliper apart - push piston back but it wouldn't go right back, about 5mm still sticking out - refitted calliper - calliper is sliding as it should – break pads/disc free from binding - refitted wheel - went for a spin and noticed the binding started again and wheel got hot. I don't want to fit new brake pads until I get binding sorted. Should piston go all the way back where it's flush with piston outer housing; or, should a bit of it still be sticking out? It seems the piston is not retracting under normal operation so causing the binding. It only goes (nearly) all the way back when it's push back manually. Why is that? As to the nuts coming loose; if you think about it...because of the heat from the wheel (yes it was that hot) the nuts came loose. If you apply heat to tight nuts/bolts they normally come loose - that’s what mechanics tends to do when they find tight nuts/bolts are hard to shift.
  10. I felt a sudden heavy vibration in steering wheel on my gen7 Celica (especially after climbing hills). First I thought it was wheel balancing or uneven road surface (which is very bad in my area); but discovered later, burning smell from nearside front wheel, all 5 lug nuts loose and whole wheel very hot - couldn't touch (even tyre hot). I had driven about 15 miles on 2 occasions when I experienced the vibration. But the vibration wasn't there all the time - only at certain speeds and road surface, which made me think it was just wheel balancing; (checked other wheels everything ok). I don’t use the car often as I’m retired. It’s always kept in my garage; use it about every 2 weeks to do shopping about 2mls from my home and take it for the occasional 20-30 mls run to keep battery topped up. What could have caused the burning smell, wheel being so hot and nuts to come loose?
  11. Just found this > http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20111128144742AAPpbjW
  12. I’m getting a rattling noise at the rear of my generation 7 Celica. When car is driven over any rough surface (small and large cracks, holes or bump) in road the rattling can be heard; but on smooth surface it’s not noticeable. I've taken absolutely everything out of boot, including all plastic panels, parcel shelf, jack, and spare wheel. as after listening properly, I noticed the rattling noise sounds more of a plastic rattle. Also took back seat out and feel about in the crevices to see if anything has been left anywhere by previous owner that could be rattling about – didn’t find anything. Replaced all the plastic panels cushioned with foam rubber, but rattle still there. Fitted both new anti-roll bar linkages as old ones seemed loose, but didn’t make any difference. The anti-roll bar bushes looks in good condition, as when I tried to move the bar it’s solid – no movement when pushed from side to side or up and down rocking - only up and down pivoting, which I think it should do. Got my mate to sit in the back to find out exactly where rattling is coming from. He said it sounded like it was the tailgate – left side; but we checked it out, inc. spoiler, but couldn’t find anything loose. I noticed the rattling started suddenly (next day or so, after the night) when I hit a hole at a speed bump; or, it was after I fitted a new number plate, which I’d put some foam rubber under it, but no difference. Also checked suspension/springs - they’re ok. Two people (inc. mechanic) mentioned; could be loose brake pads...checked those - also ok. Toyota told me; the only things that could be causing the rattling are the anti-roll bar linkages or bushes; but it seems they don’t know themselves! I need to fix this annoying rattling as it’s driving me nuts!!! I spent hours...trying to sort it!
  13. I have same rattling problem with my gen 7 celica. What is the name of the something you found in rear suspension? I'm eager to know what it is!
  14. Car jack was the very first thing I looked at - took it out and left it out.
  15. Do you mean heat shield over silencer, that's bolted to underside of car?