Avensisitis33

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Everything posted by Avensisitis33

  1. That's really great , thanks , great to have all the part numbers
  2. Magnatec 5W 30 A1 is the one specified in halfords specifically for fords but also for toyotas and it's on special offer in halfords and more expensive anywhere else I checked .
  3. Mintex , ok , thanks , will price them this week , hopefully handbrake pads are ok , don't really fancy doing them also , tricky job .
  4. Bought the four plugs today for €80 , happy enough with that price , just have to wait for the rain to stop now :)
  5. Thank you , will shop around now , sometimes price does denote quality :) though not always :) Appreciate all the advice
  6. MY ENGINE IS THE 1AZFSE AND I WAS TOLD BY TOYOTA THAT THE PLUGS I NEED ARE NIPPON DENSO SK20BR11 AND THEY ARE €35.10 EACH . I believe in only buying the best and using the best to look after the engine but I'm fairly sure they MUST be cheaper online .
  7. Thanks . Someone mentioned "green stuff" pads on a post before and not sure if they are better , I fitted TOYOTA genuine pads and they seem to be atrocious , very little stopping power .
  8. Thanks for that info . I will ring Toyota tomorrow , give them my chassis number and find out exactly which engine I have . Then I can get the correct plugs .
  9. Yes I saw them locally here in Dublin for sale for around €25 . I'm sure a genuine Toyota price would be about twice if not treble that .
  10. AVENSIS 2.0 petrol BRAKE PADS 2003-2009. Need brake pads but need advice as to the best ones and make available Any advice appreciated Thanks
  11. AVENSIS 2.0 litre petrol ( manual ) PLUGS Need to buy a set of plugs , anyone know which are the best type , I have seen ones with one , three , and four electrodes , so I'm a little confused what to buy . The iridium ones being the most expensive and maybe the best . If anyone can tell me the exact type and make and model number I will buy them but need advice :) Thanks
  12. Ha ha ha , thanks , I will keep the one hour download as an option when I simply can't find the correct info . If you have the link to that £3 an hour data site I would be truly grateful . Thanks all
  13. Because these little plastic rivets that hold the wheel arch in place I do call it expensive to pay ( I'm living in Dublin ) over €6 for 6 tiny plastic pieces :)
  14. Warning , don't FULL lock , please , try as I do ti do gently planned turning as when it does rip it off EVERYONE will be looking at you and it will be embarrassing in the financial sense also :)
  15. Ha ha , yes , the only thing I do not want is for the wheel to get a GOOD grip and rip the whole thing off , AND IT WILL , believe me , I'm sorting mine out tomorrow , I'll be damned if I'm buying a new wheel arch or trying to source a good second hand one simply because I'm too lazy to fix it , and I am , I'm not looking forward to being out in that cold windy weather :) ha ha ha ha
  16. There IS one other VERY common reason and it's so simple few mechanics check for it and it WILL give the same symptoms you had and that is a faulty LOOSE connection on the BATTERY . It can happen simply because it needs the positive and negative terminals cleaned ( rarely ) or more likely that it has loosened and at speed / vibration it loosens enough to short the system out . This loss of connectivity can be elsewhere also near started / solenoid / alternator . But the symptoms you described would fit for that strangely happening occurance . Anyway you have a new battery and I would say you are sorted , if it does happen again over time then get a mechanic who does know electrics to check out all simple connections .
  17. I think re greasing wheel nuts you will find that they are using copper anti seize compound which helps stop adhesion between the common alloys that are in wheels and braking systems making it easier to remove . But I've NEVER found that this alloys wheel nuts to rotate free again. And as in all cases where wheels have been removed for ANY reason , they should be rechecked and tightened after a few days if there are any signs of loosening , again rare .
  18. WD40 has a more penetrating effect and there may be an issue regarding this shorting across circuits . Silicon lubricant works better but needs to be worked in a little using key in almost fully to guide the silicon lubricant to follow its path to all areas . Again , as electrics are involved , the least is better :) hope this helps
  19. I have EXACTLY the same problem and on the same side only but , as I'm sure is the same case with yours , the wheel arch has sagged ( even an inch is enough to catch the tyre ) . Once these clips that hold the arch in place are removed they need to be replaced , they're made that way :) great thinking to stop the DIYer :) but nothing stops us :) and there are many out there at the moment , do as I did , buy a few , especially the ones with the heads that have a pozidrive screw unlock system as they are reusable . That will almost definitely solve the problem
  20. Thought long and hard re what could be jamming the signal so turned off wifi in house , also Bluetooth and GPRS and wifi on phone , tried everything , aaaaaaaaaaah , will be getting Toyota to have a look in the new year :( will have a thrifty christmas saving up for it :) ha ha , thanks anyway .
  21. what is toyota tech stream diagnostics???? i did purchase the dash command bluetooth app for the car and it does work with the car streaming data but it only shows problem with egr faults coming up but within threads others have said that the 2 litre petrol does not have egr. agin puzzled. it doesnt show things like electrical faults.
  22. just verified one thing and that is that the problem ONLY occurs outside my house. so the signal is being jammed by some signal closeby. strange, very strange. i did buy a brand new battery from an automobile key company and tested it and away from the house the signal will work some distance from the car.as upposed to outside the house where being right beside the car i cant set the central locking. never heard of this happening to ANYONE.:( TIS A PUZZLEMENT.
  23. yep, that thought occured to me the moment i bought it :) will almost definitely have to hand her in to a car electrics specialist as i dont think its solveable , the other strange thing is that it seems to set and reset no problem AWAYfrom the house , its as if someone or something has something jamming the signal ,really strange, little paranoid regarding security on the car and house but thats normal living in dublin around christmas, gotta be careful.
  24. Would hazard a guess that it will need a complete new barrell , hence new keys and probably alarm / central locking recoded . Not cheap . It it's just the barrell seizing then moderate lubrication MIGHT solve it . Lubricate it with silicone oil with key in , it will help oil run through system . Ignition off of course . And let it dry out for a few hours . It's the simplest solution , if this doesn't work then it's a problem for an auto electrician and can't imagine it will be cheap . Sorry I couldn't be of any help .