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    RAV 4
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  1. I had a 2002 RAV 4.2 Petrol Auto some years ago, with a dodgy battery. Rather than replace with the standard size, I fitted the size intended for the diesel version. This gave around 15% increase in capacity though fitting it in the back of the engine compartment was a real finger trapper. (I have big hands & fingers.) This gave fantastic service over many years with never a blip. From Yorkshire this RAV went all over the UK and Ireland, All the Scandinavian Countries several times including above the Arctic Circle in January, and into several other European Countries. The "running
  2. Get the battery size which fits the diesel version. It has bigger capacity and will give much safer performance. and reliability. I did exactly this when I had a Series 4.2 petrol RAV Auto some time ago and it worked miracles !
  3. As stated earlier, I removed the outer elements of these backing plates several years ago, They had partially rusted through and I simply removed the rusted segments to avoid any further issues. My RAV must have passed its MOT for five years now with no mention of backplates, though I go to a 'proper' garage for my MOT's, not a chrome & plastic dealership with TOYOTA over the door! Be warned!!!!
  4. Hello Pedro, Go to a decent Exhaust specialist. I had a complete system from manifold backwards fitted at Blandford Tyres and Exhaust (not far from you) earlier this year for around £200. My RAV is a long wheelbase, but that maybe won't make much difference. (I live in Yorkshire and have no link with this company) Just that mine broke while on holiday.............
  5. The backplates rust off beyond the parking brake support plate, leaving that in place, hence no difficulty in assembling the parking brake shoe's retention pins. I did this exercise some years ago and the vehicle is fine without the flimsy bits of pressed metal which are supposed to keep the discs clean!
  6. I took mine off, (as they rusted) some years ago with no issues. Someone on here did get a quote for replacements from Toyota and they were asking really stupid money, even by Toyota standards! It means stripping the hub ends to change (big job) and it's quite satisfactory to run without them. Happy motoring!,
  7. Jacko, That's very good news! Your vehicle will now give you many miles of untroubled transmission issues, believe me. And why would you change it when it suits your wife so well? particularly now the auto is sorted. If it's any help, mine (a 2001 GX RAV 4) has now done almost 160,000 miles with regular, on time engine oil & filter changes and is purring as good as new. I had the ECU issue at about 95,000 miles when the vehicle was new to me, once sorted, no further problems! ECU Testing guarantee their work for life anyway. Other stuff like brakes, tyres, batteries e
  8. It will be your ECU which is faulty, it's a well known fault with this year of RAV 4. ECU Testing at Belper are the guys to sort you out. Remove the unit (behind the glove box) and send to them. They will sort it and return very quickly. Their are many threads on this subject on here. Whatever else you do, the ECU requires rectification.
  9. These appear in the "For Sale" section from time to time. Keep checking
  10. Oh, just a bit more..... I did fit the strap on the back door, massive improvement, just be careful in the dark! And I replaced the standard (very small) battery with a much larger capacity one which is the specification for the diesel version. It does just go into the same place and is a massive improvement to general running and starting in the winter. Have fun!
  11. I bought a 95,000 4.2 auto nearly three years ago. The engines are bullet proof, if the oil is changed regularly, a chain driven camshaft so no belts which could break! I had fun with the auto which needed attention, as did the ECU, but once rectified, its been like a dream ever since. Apart from brake discs front & rear, pads etc. and tyres, (all expendable and to be expected on any vehicle,) the only other issue I have had was when the rear exhaust box parted company with the pipe, having rotted through between the flange and the box itself. That was a bir noisy until I could obtain a re
  12. Just take them off when they rust through, as they will! This has been the general opinion on this forum for a long while. I subscribed to it some time ago with no issues. Save your money.
  13. It sounds about right to me! I have a 2001 GX Auto and mine is just like that, it's not a problem. Whern you come up to your lollypop lady, just leave it in gear. it won't rev it's nuts off, nor give her the frights.......
  14. Someone put a link on here to e-bay a while ago, where you could purchase a complete hub assembly for not a lot. It's then a matter of undoing nuts and bolts and replacing the assembly.
  15. Providing the roads are not choked with vehicles and nothing is moving, then 4x4 vehicles don't get stuck, it's the drivers who get 'em stuck! Some (many) 4x4 owners think that makes them immune. It doesn't. You can get stuck anytime in anything if you only use one brain cell at a time. If you are sensible, understand how to drive properly, then you won't get stuck.
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