ROBBO48

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About ROBBO48

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    julie
  • Gender*
    Female
  • Toyota Model
    RAV4 XT-R D-4D
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Staffordshire
  1. HI, Handbrakes re fitted but not adjusted. The offside one with the very tight cable, that wouldn't turn when the new shoes were fitted has, had the old ones fitted back and it now does turns freely. Will adjust handbrakes asap. Another test drive and all is a lot better indeed. There is a slight whirring after the car has warmed up and travelling up hill, especially when the foot is taken off the accelerator. I am guessing this is the inner damage caused to whatever in the transfer case. Why? after all the problems we have had and still have, with the stupid limp mode and engine management light, that has blighted us since buying this car, why? isn't there a warning light or sensor to warn about this potentially dangerous and costly hazard? The car is quick enough to stop while accelerating at usually a dangerous place like, going up hill or overtaking with the horrid limp mode, so why isn't there the same precautions for no oil in the transfer case? I wish I had never set eyes on a Rav4 and. the Bradford traffic policeman we bought it off, who, wasn't on the log book strangely but, an Asian business man from Scotland was! Thank you to all the FANTASTIC folk on this forum that spend hours helping others for no personal gain, we would be all lost and poorer only for their help. I just only hope they also have VW`s or Audi`s and help with their forums, because it is time for this lump of junk to go. A special Thank You to gjnorthall and Phil. Kind regards Julie
  2. Hi, yes it was serviced a year and a half ago by a garage and has had engine oil changed recently along with filters. I can not find service details from garage but i expect everything to be done when there and foe the considerable cost. Without sounding thick, is there anything I can do to check for damage or is there symptoms I should look for? I suppose its costly to replace. Could it also damage the drive shafts? thanks Julie
  3. Hi again, we removed the whole rear offside handbrake shoes, springs etc,the side with the very tight handbrake cable, put the drum and wheel back on and test drove in our quiet street. The noises still there and after a short while the binding slowly started. Stopped at once, stripped all the handbrake mechanism from the other side and put drum and wheel back on.This was done to try and rule out once and for all if, the handbrake, the very tight handbrake cable and new shoes were the binding culprits. The exact same slight whirring noise and the car slowly starting to hold back. So not the handbrake, even though at first this was definitely part of the problem, with a spring cap rubbing and nearly worn through and the shoe loose and rattling slightly and the shoe retaining pins bent and stretched from their original size. So there was something else. The cursing one jacked and took off the front wheels, checked what he could see of the front wheels, brakes, discs ( all new`ish) . He then removed plastic protectors under the engine and checked the gearbox for leaks and to see if their was oil in there, there was, and all seemed OK. He then checked the transfer case (front diff?) and there was a slight hiss when opened, and about a table spoon of very black oil came out and a few small metallic shavings. So it looks like there was no oil at all in there. My man filled it up with gear oil and went down the street for a test run,there was a definite improvement, but that is hardly surprising considering there was no oil.There is still a very slight whirring noise but surely that is the damage in the transfer unit or even maybe the front drive shafts? caused by having no oil. That is the last time I will trust a garage again, to service or, do repairs. They all seem the same, Intent on charging as much as possible and doing as little as they can get away with and leaving the difficult jobs and pretending they have done them. He is re doing the handbrakes tomorrow but I am very worried now,to what the extent of the damage in the transfer box?drive shafts may be. Does anyone know anything about this? Thanks to everyone and their help. Regards Julie.
  4. Thanks for you reply gjnorthall, I am not 100% sure about the handbrake being applied and released released be honest, I am a bit unsure what you mean, please excuse my ignorance. when jacked up the front wheels spin very very easily however, the rear is a different story, and like i stated earlier the drivers rear will not turn most of the time. What has caused what looks like a perfectly good cable to become so tight? Is there no way of adjusting it? Is it a big or difficult job to change the cable and is it in Two parts, so would both parts need replacing? Is it possible to do oneself? If its a garage job does anyone know the cost? Thanks and regards Julie.
  5. Hi all, sorry about the delay getting back,short breaks keeping the kids happy and calming the cursing one a tad. However back to the nightmare, Brake shoes bought and fitted, and fingers were well and truly crossed but alas, the problem is still there! Wheels off and hubs off and brakes checked, all seem to look OK and a damned sight better than they were. Wheels turn and nothing seems to be binding. took for a test run but its still there. Wheels off again, the brake-shoe adjusters are at their lowest settings. One thing we noticed is the drivers side rear brake shoe cable was really tight in its cable and difficult to put in the handbrake lever, unlike the other side which was easy. On turning the rear nearside wheel with it jacked up and on axle stands, the rear wheel turns and the offside turns to,the opposite way. But on turning the offside wheel in a forward motion it binds/sticks fast and is unable to move, like the handbrake is on or its in gear, which it is not. The MOT 30th May 2014 failed on: Offside rear (to cylinder) brake pipe excessively corroded Nearside (main) brake pipe excessively corroded. Offside rear (main) brake pipe excessively corroded Nearside rear brake disc in such a condition that it is seriously weakened Offside rear brake disc in such a condition that it is seriously weakened They also mention under repairs done but not in the advisory's Handbrake shoes very low/slightly sticking handbrake cable/,rear of car. They have repaired all the above except the handbrakes, so don't know why they put that at the bottom and not as an advisory. So, not the diff. Have replaced brake shoes and springs and used correct grease in friction points, Now it seems as the drivers side rear wheel is seizing, whether this is through the over tight brake cable I don't know but it looks like. I don't know what has caused this or more importantly, how to fix it. I think its probably beyond my reluctant mechanic but don't fancy trusting any of these cowboy garages that charge the earth. Any help would be gratefully received as usual. Kind regards Julie NEVER BUY A CAR OFF A BRADFORD TRAFFIC POLICEMAN
  6. Thanks gjnorthall for the great advice, I will get him on it asap and report back. Regards Julie
  7. Thanks Phil, looks like your bad experience has helped me. I have Bought the parts and I am just waiting for my man to get time off to try and fit them. Not looking forward to it one bit. parts cost me set of X4 handbrake shoes £31.50 & Fixing kit £11.30 from G & T motor spares Buxton. It looks like he will have to attempt to fit them with the hub still on. Whether he can manage that, I don't know. If anyone could send me that brutal Bedding in process,that would help, if he fits them, something else for him to curse. So the hub removal with our very rusty looking what size nut? I don\t know? and then the possibility of the bearing being damaged isn't looking good to make the job any easier. I also suspect this is one of the reasons the garage bodged the job. Regards Julie
  8. Sorry, I forgot to ask, I noticed there wasn't much room to work on the brake shoes because of the hub. Does this need to be removed? I cant really understand the Haynes manual because of the different models and years covered. It looks quite difficult to remove and I don't think ours has in a very long while. Rusty and dust covered and split pin rusted and rotted. The large bolt nut holding the hub will not budge It does say that you can change the brake shoes and associated springs and bits while hub is in place but don't know if this will encourage more swearing from my reluctant mechanic. Any pointers on this would be great. Thanks again Julie.
  9. Thanks very much again gjnorhall for your rapid and detailed reply. I only wish the local garages were as efficient! No I haven't got any details of how to bed in the brakes. I don't think my man has changed shoes before I hope its not too difficult. On my recent MOT it mentions rear drivers side handbrake cable sticking slightly, not the problem passenger side however we cant see evidence of this. The cable seems to be covered and seems to pull. Regards Julie
  10. SORRY First photo is wrong and shouldn't be there. It should be this one, the bad spring, worn top clip and bent inner pin
  11. Well, the air has been " BLUE " all day. The Diff has been put back, filled with gear oil, hangers fixed back, drive shafts put back. Prop shaft centre bearing checked, all seem fine, however, on inspecting the rear brakes, the one that recently packed up and cost £70 to fix because it had no springs in the drum for the handbrake, we noticed that one of the springs and the top clip were rubbing against the back of the hub also rendering this shoe loose and wobbly. It seems this has been caused by the nail type pin the spring and clips sit on has stretched and is a totally different shape to the other pin and, the pins on offer on Ebay in the fitting kit. So. the garage charged me £70 for fitting a few springs and by the look of it, used the old pins and not fitted new. The spring has been refitted a few times but when trying to adjust the brakes or pulling the hand brake it comes away again. On test driving it is OK for a very short distance then can hear a binding type rubbing noise and it seems to get worse. I sense it is this troublesome pin,spring and clip. Are all the pins supposed to be straight? How much brake shoe should be there? There doesn't look much, only a few millimeters Should I replace them? Why didn't the garage change the pins to new instead of leaving old? So one garage changes rear discs but not the shoes, or springs or adjust the brakes. T`other changes a few springs but not pins and does not adjust brakes, We are at the mercy of these clowns. Everything is now pointing towards the brakes..
  12. Thanks gjnorthall, that's very helpful. Thanks again to all you Gurus who spend time doing these "how to do links" , they are invaluable to us mere mortals. We would be all stumped and a fair bit poorer only for you guys. I will get the cursing one on it as soon as poss, when the rain stops and report back. Regards Julie
  13. Thanks gjnorthall & Phil. Phil, I too have just had new discs fitted and I wasn't best pleased with this particular garage that I wont be using again. They fitted rear discs for the MOT, but patched up the handbrake, it was then taken to a good garage and the shot handbrake fixed and they mentioned the other side handbrake cable was sticking slightly. On inspection and testing, hand brake seemed fine.I haven't checked the hand brake adjustment and didn't really think I had to, nor do I have the first idea on how to do this. This to me Phil, seems a likely avenue to check and sounds very similar to your problem, thanks. Regards Julie
  14. Thanks gjnorthall, your a star! All help very much appreciated indeed. The cursing one with dirty hands will be under it asap and weather permitting. Does he need to put everything back before a thorough check can be done on centre bearing and other things? Regards Julie.
  15. OK thanks very much for that Kingo, I will get the cursing one on it as soon as poss. One other thing I forgot to mention is, the rear Diff hanger (bushes) look shot, could of been responsible for some early knocking before whatever has gone, went. The rubber is cracked and broke, I would say needs replacing or, as others recommendput some brand of gunk in (what brand?) Regards Julie.