71jagman

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About 71jagman

  • Rank
    New Member

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    chris_chapman77@outlook.com

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Chris
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    RAV 4 XT4
  • Toyota Year
    2004
  • Location
    Berkshire
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Travel
    Road Trips

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I had my Air Con fail recently, the integral switch lamp continually flashed and no cold air. I connected an air con pressure gauge (as supplied by Halfords with the recharge gas) and the pressure indicated was very high (in the red section of the gauge). I then checked the clutch on the compressor and it was not engaging. I removed the off side undertray to reveal the compressor and wiring and disconnected the plug. Testing into the compressor on Oms scale I looked for a resistive reading and read 189 ohms. Thinking this was probably correct, I assumed that the supply was ok because of the indicator lamp, I was stumped. Knowing it to be an electromagnetic clutch what else could be wrong, was it stuck I thought? out comes the copper hammer and the pully received a few taps and hey presto all was well again. Now that's the fix I like. I hope this post helps anyone with wayward air con.

  2. Thrumming noises from rear of the car, as discussed here previously, are now confirmed as tyre related.

    I have replaced all the tyres and all noises and vibrations have disappeared.

  3. Hi IanML This fix has stopped the high frequency resonance at 3000 revs as well as the low frequency rattle.
  4. Hi IanML Yes that's correct. If you grab the picture and zoom in all will become clear.
  5. My RAV4 has been bugged by a rattle coming from the inlet manifold at low engine speeds. Apparently the manifold has an internal baffle which can shake loose with the passage of time and miles. It is so loud as to make the petrol engine sound like a diesel. After extensive research I discovered that the problem exists on several different models. The fix is to insert several screws which will capture the baffle and stop it from vibrating/rattling. The method I used is as follows. I removed the manifold and chose carefully an angle for the drill which would put it through all the layers of plastic and into the plenum chamber. Using a 2 mm drill I drilled through the layers feeling the drill pass through each one. I then counter bored the hole to form a flat plane for the screw head. I then drilled the first layer of plastic with a 4 mm drill for clearance then inserted a self tapping screw 3 mm by 20 mm covered with a liberal coating of heat resistant silicone sealant. I chose four places in between each of the intakes. I reassembled it using a new gasket. NO MORE RATTLES I make no apologies for publishing this fix if it has already been covered else where on the forum. My searches have not found it. It is not necessary to remove the manifold on some other models because access to the seam can be gained from the top between the air intakes. This fix can save several hundred pounds.
  6. Hi Tay I had the same problem with a RAV4 2004 which I have just fixed. After extensive searches on Youtube etc. I found that it is a common problem on several Toyota models. Apparently the manifold is made up of several mouldings glued/welded together. One of these forms an internal baffle which breaks loose with the passage of time and the fix is to insert strategically placed screws which stop the baffle from vibrating/rattling. I removed the manifold with the intention of fixing it and having studied several other pictures of the fix decided on the best position for the screws was through the point where the mouldings come together. I chose an angle for the pilot drill that would put it through all the layers of plastic. Using a 2 mm drill I carefully drilled the hole feeling the drill pass through the layers of plastic into the plenum chamber. Then I counter bored to form a flat plane for the screw head. I then drilled the top layer of plastic with a 4 mm drill. The screw used was 3 mm Posidrive 20 mm long. This was inserted with a liberal coating of heat resistant silicon sealant. See the picture. I used four screws and aimed to get them in between the the air intakes. The manifold is now reinstalled and rattles no more. I hope this helps anyone who has had a similar problem.
  7. 71jagman

    VVTi issues

    Hi, Can anyone throw light on what may be causing my engine to sound really harsh at 3000 revs. It's 2004 VVTi. and the noise is valve/cam related. I have removed the oil control valve and checked it's operation with 12v supply and it seems ok I have no idea where to go next with this problem. Thanks
  8. Hi Steve I know exactly the noise you are talking about, unfortunately I don't know the answer. I have the same problem which I felt was temporarily cured by new tyres but now the tyres are 30K miles old the noise is back. I would describe it as "thrumming" a rhythmic sound related to wheel/drive train related. Hope this helps.
  9. Welcome to the Toyota forums 71jagman :)