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dawolf

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    MR2 Rev3 Turbo

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  1. dawolf

    My Rev4 N/a

    That's one very mint looking MR2. Haven't seen a true red one like that for a while. My only criticism is it looks a tad high on those big wheels, just needs lowering a bit.
  2. Thanks for comments. No it wasn't bought on e-bay, was advertised on auto trader. Was cheap because the seller had a company car to pick up. Glad you like the wheels, I've had mixed comments about them on IMOC.
  3. Hi all. Haven't posted here for a good while. I picked up this black rev 3 turbo last week for just £2650. It's a '94 and has done about 75k miles. One owner since import in 2005. It has a few mods on and I've added the white advan wheels and clear sidelights from my last MR2. The bodywork is very tidy and shiny with just a couple of minor blemishes. There are also a couple of other minor mechanical issues to be sorted but nothing major. Let me know what you think. Cheers.
  4. Mine's sat on adjustable springs/shocks. It's about 45mm lower than standard and the rear tyres sometimes catch the arch a bit but it looks great. Lol.
  5. Cheers Fizz. Lol. I just want to make sure I end up with a good car which won't burn my wallet. My G-Limited was a fresh import and didn't have any problems with it, not until the last few months anyway but I understand what you're saying mate. Trouble is if I buy privately I'll have to sell mine privately.
  6. Still hunting for a good turbo. I notice that rev 2's seem to be priced at anything between £2k and £3.5k whereas rev 3's hold their price more with many of them priced above £4k. I am going to part-ex my G-Limited as it's the least hassle, most places offer about £1.5k for it so I'd have to find the rest in cash (well, probably use my 0% credit card then transfer to a loan later on). Do you think it's worth the extra money for a rev 3? I've heard they're easier to mod and have better parts, including stiffer suspension, uprated internals and metal head gasket. Is it adviseable to go for a standard one as opposed to modified? Is a fresh import usually the best option? I get the impression many Brits seem to abuse these cars and mess with the boost. Thanks.
  7. dawolf

    Buying A Turbo

    Thanks for the comments guys. I've decided against this car as I've found out the turbo is kicking in too late, gave Rogue a quick buzz and they put me right. I'll make sure I check everything as best I can. The thing is I don't have that much spare money at the moment, that's partly why I'm a bit apprehensive about buying but I just love the power of turbo's and I don't think I can hold out much longer. Lol.
  8. dawolf

    Buying A Turbo

    Hi all. I'm seriously considering buying a freshly imported turbo. It's a standard rev 2 in turquoise, no mods. The import documents are all present and they state the car was A1 all round. Has done 70k miles and seems to drive okay from the 15 minute test drive. I posted about it on IMOC and people seemed to be putting me off by saying that you have to be very careful as turbo's can get costly down the line and you can't always tell if there are underlying issues. I feel that I've done everything I can to reduce the risks, probably going to get it inspected too. I'm under the impression that turbo's are not as reliable as N/A's and I'm not sure whether to buy one now. My N/A has cost me about £1700 in repairs over the last 6 months which is partly why I want to change. Any comments or opinions are appreciated.
  9. I'm still considering buying an MR2 turbo, seen a couple I like. My main concern is the engine (most expensive part to get fixed). How do you reliably check the condition of the engine without opening it up? I guess it's a case of checking for mayo, smoke, rattles or knocks, warm and cold idling and seeing how well it pulls on the drive. I'm considering paying my mechanic to come with me or is that not really needed? Any other tips? Cheers.
  10. Hmm, well I checked over the engine and it sounds okay, no smoke out the back and no mayo in the cap. Didn't check for play in the turbo though. It pulls well enough.
  11. Hi all, I put a deposit down on a nice snowflake red turbo today, part-exing my N/A. The car is a 92 J reg but is in great condition inside and out. It has a number of nice mods too. There are just a couple of things I want to check: 1) The car has a grainger valve connected along with a boost gauge, it seems to be boosting at 18psi which seems high and I would like to lower it to around 14psi. How is this done? I presume you need to adjust the screw somehow but should it be turned outwards or inwards? 2) The fuel gauge reader seems to get stuck halfway up, owner says it's just an intermittent fault. Can this be fixed easily? Here's a couple of pics of the car, the previous owner was a member on MR2OC so some of you may recognise it. Any comments appreciated. Cheers.
  12. dawolf

    Should I Buy?

    I took too long deciding, the car has been sold. Shame really but I wasn't totally sure on the car anyway. It's proving hard work finding a decent turbo.
  13. dawolf

    Should I Buy?

    Went to check out a red turbo in Nottingham yesterday. It's a K reg '93 rev 2 with 71k miles on the clock. It's also a t-bar which I want badly. It's standard except for a dump valve and twin 5" exhaust. Mechanically it seems very good, turbo spools nicely and holds the boost, engine sounds okay and no signs of mayo in the cap. Clutch and gearbox feel okay. The trader said the front brakes were stiff and needed work doing but they seem fine now. Bodywork appears pretty good for the year, mostly still shiny although the roof, engine lid, spoiler and rear quarter panels are a little faded with a slight pink tinge. My main concern was a small 'brush' type effect on the driver's door, looks like it may have had some minor work done at some point but it's not that bad. Also noticed a few white speck marks on the bonnet, the bloke said this was just polish residue? I want to make sure I buy a good turbo which will be reliable and this one is probably the cleanest I've seen for ages. The trader said he'd give me £2000 for my N/A which seems quite fair considering it's a tintop and has done 90k miles, then he would accept £1300 in cash, making a total of £3300. I also get to keep my current expensive wheels. What you guys think? A fair deal? Just after some advice, don't want to rush into anything.
  14. dawolf

    Clutch Problem

    My clutch has been getting very stiff lately when using the 'bite point'. Have been told it could be either the master or slave cylinder. Is there any way to tell for certain? Apparently it's not leaking fluid but stiffness seems to be getting gradually worse. Any ideas on a price too?
  15. Just had the oxygen sensor replaced on mine, caused it to fail MOT due to emissions. Was charged £95 by the garage, they said it's a very fiddly job. Sensor itself is only about £30.
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