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  1. Yup. Solenoid shaft IS connected with eyelet. 😪
  2. Had another look at it this morning. Seems not possible to remove the solenoid by merely removing the two philips screws. Check my pic. The solenoid end is hooked around the plastic rod of the release/lock mechanism, so that will need to come out first. Sigh. Back to removing the rear bumper. 😪
  3. I’ll look again but the solenoid is held in a bracket with two Philips screws and the bracket with two 10mm headed screws from under the bumper. It didn’t look like the solenoid would come free removing the Philips screws.
  4. The plastic rod you mention is still whole. However if I force the solenoid into the release position, the unlock works. So I squirted up the solenoid rods with GT30 a few times and now it (mostly) works. It really needs taking apart for a good clean and relube but that entails removing the rear scuttle with wings, number plate, etc. Not going to happen soon. Thanks for your input Bob/flash22.
  5. Yep. Can release easily. You think it's jut gooed up? Bit worried about taking it all apart 😞
  6. Hi, guys. 58 reg Aygo. Rear boot lid lock problem. Cannot open. Can see the solenoid actuate but doesn't move the cam to unlock position. See attached movie, please. When using the remote to unlock the solenoid actuated for maybe half a second and moves about an inch or so. Any clues as to how I might solve this? Thanks, Pete 20220809_122010.mp4
  7. According to this site: https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=155-65r14-175-65r14 The speedo would under read by 1.4mph at 30mph. So it looks like a no no. But could use on the rear I think.
  8. Thanks, Dave. Checking on diameter measurement.
  9. I've been offered 4 x 175/65 R14 pristine tyres. For free! But. Will they fit my standard steel rims?
  10. Yesterday quite suddenly a loud 'clanking' sound started. Not regular enough to be just a little end on a piston since on decelerating the noise frequency double or trebl3es, A couple of miles later engine warning light came on and proved to be P0011, CVVT problem. The noise is loud enough for me to take round to my friendly local mechanic. I'd assumed something catching on a drive belt. Mechanic had a listen and poke around then condemned the engine. However following a search for P0011 I came across this post. This led me to check supply to OCV, about 11.9V and continuity check the OCV coil, about 9.8 ohms, I managed to get the oil filter cap off but couldn't figure out how to extract the filter itself. Questions: 1) How to remove the oil filter. 2) If I get a replacement OCV do I need to set anything to do with valve timing before removing the OCV? Or can I just replace with impunity.
  11. Yep. Another thing to check. Thanks.
  12. Good suggestion re the motor mounting. First thing to check. 13 years old and not in bad nick. Some light rust on the front cross member is all.
  13. Thanks, IIRC, I paid about £10 for the arm. Blades varied, Bosch being the most expensive.
  14. I accept, of course, that there's a reason why things aren't working. I've examined how the arm sits on the driver spindle and can see no difference between mine and a slightly newer Aygo, i.e. the arm sits on the spindle to the same depth so it doesn't appear to be a height above the glass issue. One way to check genuine. You appear to be a dealer, what is the cost of a Toyota wiper arm?
  15. Not being a mechanic I can't be sure except they were bought as genuine Toyota parts.
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