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Planemo last won the day on November 23 2018

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About Planemo

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  1. Planemo

    Dash LED's

    The multi pin plug takes a bit of care as mentioned in the thread, and the small surface mount leds are not easy to solder. I have been soldering for many years and I found it a tricky job but no special surface mount soldering tips required. Heres another fitting thread following a google search:
  2. In short, it could be either your 1st or 2nd sensor. Or both. Cheap sensors usually fail far earlier than genuine OE ones. Yes the OE is expensive. Or you might be looking to sell the car next year. Yer pays yer money. Edit: or is could be the cat itself...
  3. I have found out the long way that the warning lights on Aygos (or at least the Mk1) can do real random things. I had an issue on mine where, when on dipped beam, the blue high beam warning lamp would come on (along with the green headlight one), very dimly at first, then get a little brighter after 15 mins or so. Seemed very odd and I couldnt work out what was causing it. Sometimes it wouldnt come on at all but always reappeared at some random point. I eventually traced it to a very small amount of water that was getting into the 3 pin headlight plug. Unlikely to happen on a stock car as my original 3 pin plugs are away from the headlight as I have an LED conversion but just thought I would put it out there. Dodgy earths can present very odd things sometimes!
  4. Sorry to see you go Fester, been good to cyber chat with you. That said the ST Fezza is a cracking car, I dont blame you for the change. Bit envious tbh. Although the S2000 is a good bit of kit too. Stay the right side up when on the Big Z though, and may you have many joyous summer rides on it 🙂
  5. Wow, possibly a first? Never seen or heard of that fuse blowing before! Did you do any welding on the car? Or find any reason why it blew?
  6. Hi, my indication arrow when turning right decides when to work. The actual indicators work fine it's just the dashboard right arrow. The car is aygo 2010 and I'm a complete novice with cars. Could you give me any advice. Regards John. 

  7. I use 5w30 all year round. 0w20 is very thin indeed and I certainly wouldnt risk it in summer on my 12 year old, 90k engine. Newer engines have tighter tolerances and is why many are specced for 0w all year round. You will probably be ok in the winter but I still dont see a benefit and frankly I am amazed that anyone would see a difference in mpg between 0w and 5w on our engines. Placebo? I would certainly want to see some decent control data.
  8. Its usually piston slap with the 1KR-FE engines. They are notoriously bad for it. Mine does it, and I know its not the manifold because I have had 3 different ones now, during the process of decatting.
  9. 195/45 is the better size. Using 50’s will start putting your speedo out, in the worst direction as well. 70mph indicated will be 72.4, 30mph indicated will be 31. Not horrendous but something you need to be aware of. Anyway, the 45’s will look a lot better.... Using a 38mm offset will stand the best chance of you not rubbing on anything.
  10. I agree with Chopstick. It's a bit like the old skool method of chucking an egg in the radiator to cure seals. A temporary repair which ruins everything it touches. Modern engines also have carefully designed water ways (unlike the old days) which vary in cross-section from the fairly large to the incredibly small, in order to keep water temp uniform throughout the block and head. Adding anything to the system which is designed to 'block' is incredibly risky at best. A 'get you home' method I grant you, but the reality is that I would consider the engine to be scrap in the long term. As an aside, don't forget that you don't need to be losing water to have a blown head gasket. I had a Kawasaki 500cc twin a few years back which presented some head scratching - it would run 100% with no smoke nor loss of power but whenever it was in the 7000-9000rpm bracket under full load it would start to overheat, quickly as well. If it was kept in this rpm range you could actaully see the temp needle climbing. Come back out of this rpm and it would return to normal. It ran like this for about a year before I had enough. I pulled the head and confirmed that the head gasket was blown, but barely noticeable. It had failed between a bore and a very small waterway. This was not enough to allow the low pressure water to pass into the bore, but was enough for the high pressure combustion at high rpm to pass into the water system, pressurizing it and thereby reducing the efficiency. Luckily it never blew the header tank but it was a pain in the neck to diagnose because I couldn't use a sniff test as I couldn't recreate the symptoms whilst stationary. A new head gasket sorted it. Due to the above, in conjunction with a sniff test and the fact that the Aygo doesn't have a temp gauge, it might be worth hooking up the Torque App via the OBD and running a data log of the coolant temps for a day, under all driving conditions (including long static idles and fast motorway work). Mine runs pretty much bang on 84 to 88 degrees no matter what the conditions. If it's outside of this it would be a good indication...
  11. Shocking. I would say that the window that hasnt yet decided to part company is far more dangerous than the one that was gaffa taped in which I would wager is far more secure than the plasticine blobs which are holding the other in. If the remaining glass does break free, at the very least it will incur a lot of scratches in the door. At the worst it could end up flying down the motorway into the path of the nearest unlucky vehicle. Dont risk it. Fully gaffa tape the remaining window as well. One of these windows with only one hinge holding it in is a live grenade. Dont forget that my window with only one hinge attached fell out completely on simply closing a door. Even stationary, the dropping of it made some nasty gouges in the door paint. I was fuming given how well I look after my car.
  12. Oddly enough a sniff test IS old school. Been used for many years. A sample of vapour is taken from the coolant header tank and passed through a detecting liquid which changes colour if exhaust gas is present. There shouldnt be any, and if the colour changes then exhaust gas is getting into the coolant system somewhere and thats usually the head gasket but could be a cracked cylinder head, block or any number of locations where the coolant could meet cylinder gases. As for you comment re 'liking the old fashioned way of doing things', thats a very valiant statement but the problem is that we are not talking about diagnosing old fashioned cars. Carburettors have been replaced with injectors, fuel pumps and regulators. Points and condensors have been replaced with coil packs and ECU's. Plain old exhausts have been replaced with numerous O2 sensors, EGR systems and fuelling being continually controlled by them on the fly. The list goes on. Even the injectors on the Aygo are sequential, unheard of until relatively recently as it needs a fair bit of ECU processing power. Not forgetting crank angle and cam phase sensors, 3D ECU maps for all load conditions and knock sensors. Just one problem on any of these will cause issues. Give all this to an 'old fashioned' mechanic and they will either generally have a meltdown or bluff their way through it (at your cost).
  13. Guys, I just wanted to post this up for future reference. About 3 weeks ago, on starting the car my airbag light started flashing. It has never done so before and I can think of no reason as to why it should come on out of the blue. I checked the usual suspects (around the underseat airbag connectors) which were fine, and the resistor fuses had not moved since I removed the factory airbag seats years ago. I also checked the connections on the airbag ECU (removed and refitted) as well as the side impact sensor plug. Also removed and refitted the passenger and drivers airbag plugs. Obviously the battery had also been disconnected during all this for a total of at least an hour. The battery itself was new this year as well. Powered it all back up - no change. I hadn't considered the ECU itself could be at fault - after all there are no moving parts and its well bolted down so I suspected either the driver or passenger dash airbags had become faulty. With nothing else left for me to try at home, I contacted my local garage who confirmed they had all the correct kit to read, diagnose and clear airbag codes at £54 inc vat. Just before booking it in I thought I would have another scour of the web and found a few people who had had the same problem with Aygos/107's and that it had been diagnosed to faulty airbag ECU's, a couple being replaced under warranty and another one costing £240 outside of warranty. I took a very large gamble and thought I would give it a go. I found a secondhand ECU on the bay with the seller confirming that no codes were stored. £40 delivered. Just fitted it all up and bingo - airbag light comes on as usual with ignition on then goes off after a few seconds as it should. Very happy. Just something to bear in mind if you get a flashing airbag light and have checked all the connections. It appears that the ECU's can and do go pop for no apparant reason whatsoever.
  14. Frosty I do not think you have said anything in your post that we did not know already or you haven't said before. My point (and I am sure everyone elses) is that it should not be unreasonable for an owner to turn up at a dealer with gaffa taped windows and get some sort of positive action for a matter which Toyota have already issued a safety critical recall for. It is nonsensical to be turned away on the basis that DVLA have not yet provided the owner details. The owner is there in the flesh. Why you support and subscribe to the 'Toyota cannot do anything until DVLA provide owner details' idea is beyond me.