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  1. Hi Crofter, Thanks, that answers my question, only one reservoir. The reason I feel it needs changing is: I haven"t a clue when it was last done and as the car is getting on for 18 years old I thought it might never have been done before. Also it might help the usual difficulty in first gear selection. All I need now is someone to tell me how to do it or should I leave it to the professionals? I believe there is a Self Bleeding Kit I can buy, so does this do away with the scrambling underneath the car undoing every brake bleed nipple because I am just too old to do that. thanks again
  2. I am an absolute idiot when it comes to the mechanical side of cars, so please help me! I want to drain the Clutch fluid and replace with new, but I don"t have a clue how to do it. I"ve been told that the clutch fluid comes from the Brake reservoir, but others say there"s a separate reservoir for my model Rav which is a 1998 . Engine code 3S-FE 16v Body code SXA10 Engine number 3S24161**. Can someone please clarify it for me and tell me how I go about it. cheers
  3. Hi all, I have a 1998 Rav4.1. engine number 3S24....., engine code 3S-FE, body code SXA10.I have previously placed a thread on the web page regarding the Hesitancy and Missing when in low revs, so what I want to know is:: Is it possible to carry out a Diagnostic Test on this model RAV? Does my RAV have the correct plug which the tester can use to plug in their equipment? As I am medically unable to carry out any checks myself I thought a diagnostic test would be the cheapest and quickest way of finding out what the heck is wrong with my RAV. Cheers
  4. Hi Del, The plugs I took off do seem to be a lightish brown colour. Am I right in saying that the correct plugs for this model RAV4.1 are NGK BKR6EKB-11 which have the twin electrodes? I will take the Air Filter out as soon as it stops raining and give it a run out. Will let you know if it makes any difference. Hi Colin, I will check the gaskets and clean the plug caps. Thanks both for the advice.
  5. Hi all, Because I am physically unable to do so, a few months ago I had my brilliant 1998 RAV4.1 with the 2L petrol engine serviced by a local one band mechanic who came highly recommended by my local MOT station. Unfortunately since he serviced it I have noticed the car is hesitant and stutters when in any gear at low revs, so this week I decided to change the plugs. The mechanic had used NGK BKR6EYA-11 single electrode plugs, but I was told this engine uses NGK BKR6EKB-11 twin electrode plugs and these are the ones I fitted this week, but on test driving the car it seems to stutter and be more hesitant than it did before fitted these plugs. The old plugs I took out had quite a bit of oil around top of the thread and when I fitted the new plugs I didn"t over tighten them. Maybe I haven"t tightened them enough???? or could it be something else. Any help or advice would be really welcome. Thanks
  6. Hi Devon Aygo, Thanks for the info. I am not questioning your knowledge, but the DENSO PK20TR11 is the correct plug for my 1998 RAV-4 GX. 3 door manual. Engine number 3S2416161 ? CHEERS
  7. Hi Graunch, Thanks for that
  8. Yes, I would under normal circumstances do that, but as he has now moved and lives over 100 miles away and I do not have his phone number, that"s a no no.
  9. Hi all, You"ve probably been asked this hundreds of times. I had my 1998 Toyota RAV4 GX 3 door serviced last year by a local mechanic working from his house. Since then she doesn"t seem to run as smoothly as she did and the mpg is down a bit. It sometimes feels hesitant and doesn"t pull as well as she used to,so I was wondering whether he fitted the correct plugs because I have been reading about this and the Plugs you use do make a big difference. So what PLUGS should I use? Thanks.
  10. Hi all, I have 2 very nice Cibie Oscar spotlights which I want to fit to my 1998 Rav4 3 door. Where can I get the proper brackets to fit them? or is it better to fit them to a Roof bar and if so has anyone a Roof bar I can buy? I would really like to make my own brackets but I am not sure where and how to fit them. Does anyone have a plans on how to make the brackets? Any help, advice really appreciated. Merry Christmas everybody.
  11. Hi all, I have put a few threads on here recently concerning the problem I have been having turning on the ignition in my Rav4.1. The problem being a worn or broken Ignition barrel. This week I booked it into the local Toyota dealers after they had ordered me a new Ignition Barrel only to find out when I got there that the barrel they ordered was for a model without the immobiliser. So they told me a new Ignition switch/barrel for my car would cost in the region of £350 to £400 fitted. On the way home I called into an Auto Locksmith called Complete Security in Holbury near Southampton where they told me they could recondition the existing ignition barrel. I removed the barrel yesterday and took it to them in my Wife"s Smart car and today they rang to tell me the job was done. I went to collect it and came home and fitted it to the Rav....PERFECT..... All the keys work perfectly. And how much did it cost????? £20... Yes, just twenty quid, so now I have the original keys which fit the door and start the car PERFECTLY. In my book that makes perfect sense. I saved over £300 cheers
  12. Hi, Just returned home from a wasted journey to Snows, Toyota dealers in Southampton. I rang them a few days ago to arrange for them to fit a new Ignition barrel for which they quoted me approx £120 +vat which included the labour charges. I arrived at the agreed time this morning only to find out that the barrel they ordered does not fit my car because my car has a toyota factory fitted immobiliser, and they now tell me that the barrel I require only comes in a kit which includes the complete switch and will cost £290+vat + labour, but it has to come from Belgium!!! On my way home from there I called into an Auto Locksmith who told me he could rebuild the barrel for approx £20.00 if I took it off first. So, the help I need is. IS IT POSSIBLE TO REPAIR THE BARREL AS HE SAID AND SECONDLY, HOW DO I REMOVE IT???? My Haynes manual tells me that I have to remove the whole of the front facia including the steering wheel, but the mechanic at the Toyota dealer took the old one out and put the old one back in in approx 15 mins(Unfortunately I did not see how he did it) Please, I am desperate because I cant use the car without getting this problem sorted, so any help or advice would be so very much appreciated.
  13. Hi all, For anyone with a similar problem, there is a brilliant video on RAV4 World by JuneBug which explains clearly how to get the transponder out of the oroginal key. I have just spent 10 to 15 minutes carefully slicing open the rubber fob abd taking out the transponder which I then put into the new key which I had cut by an Auto Locksmith. The new key has a plastic holder inside the fob which can accomodate many types of transponder chip. I have just tried it in the car and it works. Result.
  14. I have just had a new key cut for my Rav 4.1 by an Auto Locksmith. What I need to know is: The Locksmith chap told me that I will need to put the micro chip from one of my old keys into the new key which has a split fob for that purpose. BUT, how the heck do I get the micro chip out of one of my old keys without damaging it because the fobs on my old keys do not split open? I dont mind vandalising one of the old keys as long as I dont damage the micro chip. Any ideas Please?
  15. I might have a result. This afternoon I phoned my local Toyota dealer ie:Snows of Southampton and spoke to a really genned up guy in their parts department. He told me that the problem could be the key and advised to have a new one cut, he even went as far as looking up the key number for me. Brilliant, thanks mate. Well I later called a company, Complete Security of Holbury near Southampton and they told me to pop along and they would cut me a new key, which I did £19.99 Bargain. Well, this key works a treat as long as I hold the old key as close as I can to the ignition switch before putting the new key in the ignition. The really helpful guy at Complete Security told me that the original key has something inside(I forget what it is called) which can be transferred to the new key he cut. Now my question is, how do I get into the key to get this whatever it is out?? I have 2 original keys so I don"t mind vandalising one of them. Will it work if I can get the whats it out? help please
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