tarantula_123

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About tarantula_123

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Dale
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Corola T - Sport
  • Toyota Year
    2003
  • Location
    Leicestershire

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  1. The o - ring should be just fine to replace on its own without the need of a new tensioner. When I had mine done though I resealed the oil sump and replaced both timing cover gaskets as well. I've not lost a drop of oil since.
  2. Just testing the water and seeing if anybody would be interested in buying my beloved CTS. I'll try and get some pics up later today as I need to clean her up, so look forward to some offers being thrown at me. The circumstances are, sadly a couple of weeks ago somebody went down the side of my car at night with theirs, but didn't leave their details. I was going to repair her myself but have got another car now (MK1 Octavia VRS). I've took her to a body shop and they told me if I can get a colour matched wing and doors second hand, they would repair the rear quarter and where it goes down to the door jams and blend the paintwork for around £400. The damage does not affect the cars drive in any way. Shes a 2003 5dr model in metallic black. The overall paintwork before the damage was i'd say average-good. The interior I would say is good-very good. Black leather seats all round, standard factory stereo and sat nav with wheel controls. What I've done to her: Engine - 108k, runs like a dream. Recently been in garage for timing cover gaskets, front crank seal, timing chain tensioner o - ring, lift bolts. I didn't bother with a timing chain replacement kit as the mechanic said the condition of the existing one was perfectly fine. She has a new radiator (Nissens), new genuine Toyota thermostat, brand new Samco coolant hose kit (white), full flush with genuine Toyota coolant. New water pump. She had a genuine second hand heater matrix (common fault) fitted by SJ Autosports a couple of years ago. I have always serviced her myself and about a month ago had all the usual filters replaced. She has NGK Iridium plugs and have been in since I bought her (around 4-5 years ago). Running Fuchs Titan Race Pro oil (always had 5w-30 in my ownership). The gearbox has Millers Nanodrive fitted, and was done a year or two ago by myself. I'm not sure if the clutch or flywheel has ever been done, but I've had my fun in her for 4-5 years and she has not shown any signs of going. I was going to have the rocker cover powder coated before this happened, so still have the gasket kit for this which is new/unfitted. Wheels - Had the stock alloys powder coated at Fast Alloys Birmingham in gloss black, may have a few light chips on the front left wheel. The tyres are 205/55 all round Michelin Pilot Sport 3's. Suspension - Brand new Vogtland suspension kit fitted by myself, with brand new front top mounts. Replaced front suspension arms, lower ball joints, track rods and drop links in the process. The front wheel bearings were both done a few years ago as well. I don't think the rears have been done in my ownership. Exhaust - Had a Powerflow cat back exhaust fitted a few years ago. Still have receipt, with an alleged lifetime warranty. She moans well. Brakes - All round Pagid discs and pads. Again, was due to re-haul all calipers and powder coat them. Still have a Big Red caliper repair kit for the car at home, new in the box. She was fully flushed with Pagid fluid before. Windows - Tinted all round. Sun strip also. Honest Problems: I had the air-con re-gassed a while ago, then it went after a few weeks. Still showed pressure in the system, so I had SJ Autosports send me a genuine second hand compressor again as I was advised it could be the clutch sticking. I fitted this and it worked for a while, but now has gone again. Am not sure for this one. Could be the relay switch, could be the condenser, could be the second hand compressor was faulty as well. Lights - Headlight out on one of them, which is strange as I not long ago fitted them with Ring Automotive ones as the MOT tester failed me for having an LED kit fitted. I lost the original retaining clips as the box got threw away with them in. Also, the front left interior light seems dimmer than the right. I removed this a while ago and found the metal contact is not tight enough, so that would need to be modified some how. Will be sad to see her go, as I was close to finishing my project on her. I'd like to think somebody would repair her and carry it on. I understand the value to me is a lot greater than the market value atm, but I know what she is worth in reality, and know what I'd be prepared to accept. Any questions feel free to drop me a message.
  3. Hi, Gearbox is not broken or noisy, just that somebody damaged the side of my car during the night a couple of weeks ago and didn't leave a note, so I was considering doing a conversion to an MR2 Spyder rather than going to the expense of replacing the front and rear door, front wing, front bumper, repairing rear quarter and door jam alongside the materials needed for prep work and painting. Having read upon the costs of the conversion though, I don't think I'll bother. Will try and find two second hand colour matched doors, wing and bumper and do the work all myself. I didn't want to go through the insurance as the car is worth a lot more to me compared to what I think they would give me for it, considering I've not long put a suspension kit on recently and having some engine work done which was not far short of 300.
  4. Anybody have a link handy for where I can get a gearbox rehaul kit for a CTS?
  5. Swapping front bumper/headlights from a pre-facelift CTS to face-lift style Corolla but was wondering if the bulb system is identical between the two? If anybody has a link which has all the fitment types that would be extremely helpful.... Would the fog light connections remain the same, i.e. will the wires and connections fit/clip into the housing in the same manner, or would I need to solder new connectors on? Am hoping the actual headlights and bumper is a straight swap with no problems, with the under tray/arch liners etc connecting up in the same manner. The bumper itself is not the actual official face - lift T - Sport bumper, but just a general 2004-2007 one which I got off eBay, as I want to fit a front spoiler underneath which will replace the old rubbing strips on my pre-facelift bumper.
  6. Had my mechanic torque them to the specs listed in the link provided, and thankfully the car still hits lift just fine. Thanks.
  7. For the two lift bolts on the 2zzge engine, is the correct torque spec as follows....? : 5.5 FT LBS or converted to 7.45 NM Reason being the mechanic who is doing my engine work didn't have a torque wrench that goes that low, and was surprised as he has never torqued that low even on bikes he has worked on in the past. Just wanted to check that these are the correct torque specs on this engine, and that it is 100% crucial that they need to be set at this.
  8. Am going to attempt replacing the two timing chain cover gaskets and tensioner o-ring myself in a couple of weeks when i'm off work but am finding it tricky getting a complete idea of whats involved in the process and hope somebody on here has done it before or knows of whats involved, or has a detailed thread I have not came across yet. From what I've read so far, the rocker cover, water pump, o/s wheel arch liner all need to come off, along with all connected belts and pulleys. Is this all for dismantling parts, and are there any special tools needed? The only thing i'm concerned of is how difficult of a task this could be within 4 days, and could it be done on axle stands without the engine being removed? Also, is there anything tricky involved in the tensioner o-ring replacement? Other than mentioned above, I have another water pump, silicone coolant hose kit, front crank seal and will more than likely be getting a modified 1zz oil pan for a straight fit swap. Anything else recommended to be replaced? How common is it for the oil pumps to go on T - Sports as i'm considering this. The engine has done around 105k. Thanks.
  9. Hi, Anybody know of an existing thread or have any information on converting an MR2 to a 2ZZ set up? I already have a Corolla T - Sport and fancy a change, so the parts would all be taken from my own car. Which parts would go into the MR2 from my T - Sport, and what parts would remain as they are in the MR2? Also, is there anybody on this forum that can do the conversion at a fixed rate, or know of somebody outside of the forum?
  10. Got a Vogtland suspension kit this week but have realised I need new top mounts, along with the seal that sits between those and the plate above the top of the front springs. Any ideas on part number or links for cheap parts? Could also do with the plate above the spring due to corrosion, but hopefully cheaper than £18 which Toyota quoted. Also, I am a little unsure on the set up of the rear shocks. Am i correct in thinking this is the part I need for top mounts, and nothing else: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/tedgum/8534193 Do the rear shocks have bump stops and dust gaitors also? I rang Toyota today regarding the front mounts etc and the prices are just silly, around £120 per top mount.
  11. I believe mine is rather a reserve tank than actual expansion tank. Some of the Corolla models do come with one pressurised cap for both the rad and expansion in one. Mine is just for the rad, and a push on black cap for the reserve.
  12. Yours is different to mine, which I think is below: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-Yaris-T-Sport-Expansion-Tank-Cap-16471-23030-/362383106163 How did it stop the coolant leak when the expansion tank isn't really pressurised like the radiator cap itself?
  13. Meaning, I have topped my oil up probably twice now and it has gone down from full to in the middle of the full and empty markers. I drive between 100 - 120 miles a week standard. I am not too sure on the intervals of it going low, but probably a month or two. It has never gone below the low marker. Just weird that it sits in the middle. I have not topped it up from the middle to full yet since the garage cleaned the oil up. It still drives and accelerates perfectly fine, and I do hit lift every time I drive it. I have never seen any clouds of smoke in my mirrors. I sort of got the water pump and hoses as it kind of eliminates the possibility of anything else being the cause of a leak, because most other cooling system parts have been replaced over the years (thermostat/matrix/radiator). My coolant in the expansion tank hasn't gone down this week since they topped it up, so possibly it was just an air lock, but, it seems an awfully long time for an airlock to stay in the cooling system since I replaced my radiator.
  14. Just a quick update on my CTS. Had my car pressure tested for both oil and coolant recently at a garage I use. No leaks were found on the coolant and the head gasket came out fine. They suggested the coolant loss could have been due to an air lock, probably from when I replaced the radiator not long ago. Had my expansion tank topped up and it hasn't gone down since. Either way, I am having them do my water pump and fit a Samco silicone hose kit I managed to pick up, and will use the standard Toyota anti - freeze this time. Before I took it in the garage I did notice an oil leak around the sump which looked like a damp wet patch. I have had my oil going down between the full and empty marker lately, and the garage said it looks like it is coming from the timing chain gasket area, dripping down. They cleaned up the area last week and checked it again today, but no oil was visible on the sump. Anyone experienced similar problems? I have organised with the garage to replace the timing chain gaskets and o ring for the timing chain tensioner. Including the coolant work I'm having done, does £200 labour for everything seem reasonable? I did ask if there was anything worth having done whilst working on these areas and they said not really, only the timing chain. Any advice for this?
  15. Will have a look at the water pump properly when I get chance to jack it up. I haven't taken the radiator cap off since posting last time to check fluids. The spare reservoir hasn't really dropped since I topped it up. Hard to tell without marking a line, so I may do that later. My oil has always looked/been spot on, never burnt oil, very rarely needed topping up. If it does turn out to be the water pump, any advice on which brand to get if not getting direct from Toyota? https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/car-brands/spare-parts-toyota/corolla-zze12-nde12-zde12/16375/10191/water-pump.html#10116