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Everything posted by mikey-t

  1. In the first year of owning my petrol T25 i was getting 41-42 mpg, now the novelty of it has worn off and I drive it like its stolen it still gets 37.5.
  2. Just put pagid discs and pads all-round on my T25. The quality of the parts is spot on but they lack that initial bite IMO. Maybe they need more than a couple of week to bed in.
  3. So, small update guys. Went and got some oil from toyota. It is a 75 mono grade as devon stated, £30 for 2 litres. Put it in yesterday and hey presto!! gear change feels much snappier and no more crunching at all.
  4. + 1 for the rubber bump stops. Mine started doing exactly the same so spaced them out with washers but 6 months later they have worn again it's rattling once again. Replacements are £35 all in.
  5. Devon, any chance you can confirm the correct grade of gearbox oil for a 2008 1.8 avensis TR please?
  6. Brilliant. Thanks for the help everyone, gonna order castrol syntrans and update this thread when I have replaced the oil.
  7. Hmmm, very intriguing!! Really hoping the oil that toyota recommends in the official handbook supplied with the vehicle hasn't damaged anything. Just been looking on opie to order some but a bit confused. Would the Castrol Syntrans FE 75W Fully Synthetic Car Gearbox Oil be suitable? http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69412-castrol-syntrans-fe-75w-full-synthetic-gear-oil-gl4.aspx
  8. Hmmm, very intriguing!! Really hoping the oil that toyota recommends in the official handbook supplied with the vehicle hasn't damaged anything.
  9. If it is clutch related why is it only doing on third and why only the first few shifts? According to the manual ; Oil Type: Gear oil API GL-4 or GL-5 Recommended oil viscosity: SAE 75W-90 http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/gearbox-oil/halfords-gear-oil-ep-75w-90-gl-5-1l This is what I got from halfrauds.
  10. Hey all. Looking for some advice please. I recently had the gearbox oil changed and now roughly a month after the job was done the first few gear changes going from second to third have started to crunch like mad, no problems whatsoever before the fluid change. The fluid used was the correct grade but was just halfords own brand. What are the chances of a more expensive brand or toyota's own fluid will cure the issue? Thanks!!
  11. Sorry to resurrect an old thread but why does the manual only cover 2003 to 2007 when production didn't end until 2009???
  12. Hmmmm, very strange indeed. Does your manual have a date range?? Mine says 2003 to 2007 but I am unable to source a 2007 to 2009 T25 manual.
  13. I have the cam sensor out and cold it's reading 1.092 ohms. Can I ask where you got the ohm values from ents? I have an avensis repair manual and according to that the cam sensor for the 1zz fe should be between 835 to 1,400 cold.
  14. Thanks guys!! Will check tomorrow and update. Just out of curiosity, what make you think cam/crank sensors?
  15. Thanks for the reply buddy, just disconnected the MAF again and it did eventually start. Don't know if it's just a placebo but did seem a bit smoother. Gonna leave it unplugged and try it again in the morning.
  16. Hmmmm very interesting. When I cleaned mine I noticed what felt like wear in the gears that translated slightly to the butterfly valve, is this normal?
  17. Noticed a couple more things today while tinkering, 1: Did the old trick of disconnecting the MAF sensor to see if made a difference but the car refuses to start without it plugged in. Is this a safety feature or a clue??? 2, If the car is just idling and I pump the brake pedal the revs drop drastically, does this pint to a vacuum leak???
  18. Correct me if I'm wrong but the T25 doesn't have an IAC valve does it? When I took my throttle body off the only part to it was the motor and gearing to control the butterfly valve.
  19. Thanks buddy, tried the test yesterday and it does exactly what it says it should do in the notes, which is stall when the test is performed.
  20. Hey all, been having an issue with my t25 1.8 petrol.I'm hoping someone can shed some light on before I concede defeat and book it in at Mr T's. If you're sat in the car with it just on idle it feels quite lumpy and irregular, also sometimes if i dip the clutch at junctions it will drop to 600 then quickly bounce back up to 1000, like its just about to stall but the ecu pulls data from another sensor and tries to counter the stall. The worst problem though is the jerky acceleration, worse when cold and less noticeable but still present when warm. If I take it to say 2500rpm in second then come off the throttle it will kangeroo like mad, even worse in 1st and less so the higher the gear. Generally any action of pressing or releasing the accelerator is pretty jerky no matter how delicate I am. The car is fully serviced with fully synth oil and new denso plugs, I have also cleaned the throttle body and MAF with no improvement. Also tried pulling each coil pack with the engine running and it starts to misfire when one is pulled so think they're ok. Can anyone see anything out of place on my techstream data or suggest anything? Thanks in advance.
  21. The high revs on start up is due to the car trying to get to optimal running temp as quick as possible and is completely normal.
  22. I was in the exact same situation almost 2 years ago to the day. Decided I wanted a 2008 1.8 petrol TR and spent a month looking for the perfect example. Eventually found one and haven't spent even 1 second regretting my choice, the car has been completely faultless in 2 years of motoring. I even manage 40mpg in the summer and a not too shabby 38.5mpg all the way through winter. The only gripe i have is that the petrol version loses the 6 speed box and cruise....... So close to perfection toyota!!!
  23. Mine is slightly different. TRC is in the top left corner and yes it does go out. Hoping we get some snow soon so I can test it more thoroughly without buggering the tyres up.
  24. Can anyone else confirm they get some kind of visual confirmation when the traction control kicks in???
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