tommy59

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tommy59 last won the day on May 6

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About tommy59

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Tom
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Auris 2.0D4D
  • Toyota Year
    2008
  • Location
    Bedfordshire

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  1. You splice in here, it's just a single wire, I did mine with my Kenwood unit.
  2. Yeah squeeze gently and wiggle
  3. Pop the light out first then unplug it, like this.
  4. I think you can, I've never tried but there is a USB option
  5. Boot is a 36mm festoon, I think Osram do an LED version, not sure about interior. Number plate lights are T10, pop off the access panel on the inside of the tailgate, reach in and wiggle the bulb holder out, unplug the wire and then you can pull the cover off to get to the bulb.
  6. No problem! One of the main reasons for me choosing this unit was that the screen is capacitive rather than resistive and there are no hideous brightly lit buttons surrounding it. Complete list of parts I used: Head unit - DMX7018DABS Adapter - CP2-TOY23 Facia - Generic Auris double din anthracite DAB aerial - Kenwood DAB aerial The facia stand offs needed some trimming to sit it flush with the rest of the dash but not a tricky job. The surround for the headunit didn't fit into the facia so I 3D printed my own.
  7. Yeah they work perfectly. Adapter is an Autoleads, part number CP2-TOY23
  8. You can get to the fuse box from behind the glove box, pop the damper off the left side of the glove box and wiggle it out and fuse box should be right in front of you. My dashcam is piggy backed off a fuse as you described. Take a look at the diagram in the owners manual to find something with the same amperage that powers on with ignition and use that one.
  9. It's a Kenwood DMX7018DABS, works with Android auto/apple car play, Bluetooth, DAB, etc etc. If you get the right adapter wiring, works with steering wheel controls too!
  10. I've recently added a Kenwood unit to mine for this reason. Can answer some questions if you have any?
  11. While this is technically correct, it omits some of the procedure. The "defined load and pressure" is as follows: Load - 80% of the tyres maximum loading capacity Pressure - 210kpa for standard load tyres and 250kpa for extra load tyres This higher load and pressure actually skews slightly in favour of the XL tyre in terms of lower RRc values. If you tested an XL tyre as if it was a standard load version the RRc performance would be marginally worse and would be labelled as such.
  12. The lower wishbone / control arm bushes on my 2007 Auris 2.0D4D started to go resulting in vague steering and crashing over bumps so I decided it was time to replace them with a new set. Now, what should have been a 1-2 hour job turned into 12+ hour job due to Toyota's poor design of captive nut. I tried to find some information on why I couldn't get the bolts undone from the front of the arm but couldn't find anything on my issue so I'll detail it below for anyone else stuck with control arm replacement. On the front bolt for the arm water gets in between the bolt and the inside of the bush in the arm corroding the two together. Although I was able to turn the bolt with a 2m breaker bar I could not get it to move out of the hole. The captive nut for this bolt inside the frame is not welded but held in a cage. When the bolt and bush corrode together the bolt can't move outwards and the only movement causes the nut to push backwards out of it's cage resulting in a non captive nut and a spinning bolt. For me the easiest thing to do was to replace the frame with one from a breaker which took about four hours to swap everything over. Subsequently I've managed to remove one arm from the old frame by cutting into it, heating the bottom of the bolt with a blow torch and rocking the bolt with an impact gun on the other end. The other one is still stuck fast. Terrible design!
  13. Take a look at the label grading of the tyres. If 17" 16" and 15" standard load tyres all have the same RRc grading they will all be basically the same for economy. Extra load tyres are measured with a different procedure and an "A" graded XL tyre will be worse for economy than an "A" graded standard tyre.
  14. The extra sidewall height does help with vertical damping (potentially at a cost to lateral stiffness, dependant on sidewall compound), the profile may be more progressive on higher profiles dependant on the tyre design as well. Tyres with XL designations however are not always different from their standard load counterparts, some manufacturers design a tyre to the maximum specification i.e. 94Y XL and keep the same construction for all the other variants 91Y, 91W, 91V etc. I find certain brands such as Michelin, Goodyear, Pirelli produce relatively soft construction and comfortable tyres which still retain good dynamic properties. Other cheaper brands perhaps don't have the technology to achieve these handling dynamics without using a stiffer sidewall compound. You may see a small bump in fuel economy (tyre dependent) as 55 series profiles are supposedly optimal for rolling resistance.
  15. I don't mean to throw a spanner into the works but different tyres will play a massive role in vehicle dynamics/comfort. Winter tyres in particular are designed to have a softer casing and construction which will make the vehicle more comfortable and compliant. Some tyre brands in particular have stiffer constructions than others so it may be worth looking into which manufacturer you prefer.