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Everything posted by jonny123456

  1. Sorted! Thanks for the inspiration! After parking 2 wheels on the kerb, I just managed to squeeze myself under. Fortunately, it has only rotted away at one point (I think), and I managed to fix it with a washer. I've no idea if the washer is carbon steel, or stainless steel, if it'll react with the aluminium, or just keep it held up, but for now at least the car is once again rattle free 😄 Before: After:
  2. Thanks for all the info, it's been really helpful. Do you have any idea what M-size/diameter the bolts were?
  3. I'm now tempted to have a go at this myself... Is this the type of repair I could do with two wheels on the kerb? (I don't have axle stands, and know that just using a jack is incredibly dangerous) Also, where did you get the aluminium? Would cut up beer cans work, or large washers - assuming they are galvanised?
  4. I noticed a rattling (when stationary/going slow), and when I looked under the car it looks like (what I think is called) the heat shield has dropped onto the exhaust, and is causing the racket. Has anyone else with an Avensis had this? I went to a local independent who recommended just removing it, but reading online the general consensus seems to be the manufacturer will have put it there for a reason, so it should be replaced. I don't have the facilities to get under it myself and bodge do a quick fix Before I call Toyota spares, is the part just known as an exhaust heat shield? Any ideas on what a repair should cost? And if it's necessary (I suspect it is)...
  5. Thanks for link. I'll try with that, and report back. I've just looked up the receipts given to me when we bought the car, and it looks like the tyre was put on 5.5 years ago, and is only an Evergreen - so I guess not the end of the world if we need to replace it.
  6. Is this normal, or is she going to need to take it back to the garage?
  7. My wife's Auris had a puncture repair a few weeks ago. I went to double check the tyre pressure again today, and noticed this strange (rubber) thing sticking out of the tyre. I gave it a gentle tug, and it seems stuck pretty fast, but I don't want to yank it in case it leaves a hole in the tyre!!! Is it something to do with the puncture repair (e.g. from where the nail/screw was removed)? Is it the tyre failing? Is it something to worry about, or is it normal?
  8. We have a 5 door Auris T3 hatchback (and an Avensis Tourer). I could really do with a bike rack for one of them (for anyone who reads the Avensis forums, apologies for the semi-duplicate post) - for days out with the kids bikes. It's only about once every 4-6 weeks that it'll be used (so I suspect I can't justify purchasing roof bars, the bits to go across, and the bike mounts - and I don't have a tow bar either so that option's out too). Has anyone here had any luck with the generic, mount on the tailgate bike racks on an Auris hatch?
  9. I could really do with a bike rack for my T27 Tourer, for the kids 2 bikes (to save the game of Tetris I have to play each time I try to fit them in the boot!). It's only about once every 4-6 week that it'll be used (so I suspect I can't justify purchasing roof bars, and the bits to go across, and the bike mounts - and I don't have a tow bar either so that option's out too). Has anyone here had any luck with the generic, mount on the tailgate bike racks for an Avensis T27 tourer? We have an Auris hatchback too, if that makes things any easier?
  10. After having new front brakes and disks fitted today, I just got home and parked up to find a wet patch under the car, and have a mini panic after seeing what looked like an exposed pipe dripping. I took lots of photos, powered my laptop up ready to create a post in here, and then found this thread. That I started. Apologies for the thread resurrection, but I felt I had to share my relief!
  11. The pads were supposed to be Toyota ones (they say Toyota on them) so 'should' be quality. In that case, is 6mm of wear over 12 months/16,000 miles a lot? Secondly, should I be able to view the pads without taking the wheels off, to confirm they are in fact down to 6mm? As for the EPB, it's an automatic, so has no auto-release.
  12. What thickness are (Toyota) brake pads when fitted? Some people are telling me it should be 12mm, others 8mm. I had new brake disks and pads fitted to the rear of my Avensis tourer 12 months ago - Toyota parts at an independent garage . The car was in the Toyota garage yesterday, and they reported the rear pads were now at 6mm. Is this type of wear normal for new pads/disks that have done 16,000 miles mainly on the motorway - I don't consider myself a heavy braker, drive at 60, and try to leave a fair gap. The strange thing is, I've had the car for the last 55,000 miles and I've never even had to change the fronts (though they are down to 3mm now and soon to be changed) I'm not claiming any foul play, but is it strange the rears seem to be wearing quicker than the fronts? Is wear down to 6mm usual over 16,000 miles of driving?
  13. Well cheers for that, the job is done (and only one piece leftover too ) I managed to borrow the exact same trim removal kit from a colleague at work For anyone else attempting this, the following video might help as an additional reference too:
  14. That's really, really helpful. Thank you! Is it just the orange tools you need to remove the lower side panels? I suspect they're to prise things open without damaging them, but what are they called (I'll need to get some)
  15. Does anyone know how to remove the panel that surrounds the gear knob (underneath it). One of the kids dropped a shopping trolley pound on the black plastic bit that the gear knob goes through, and it's slipped down the gap at the bottom (between the panel and the flexible black plastic) :-( Image of what the CVT gear know looks like is below. I'm looking to remove the silver panel to get underneath the flexible black plastic it if that makes sense. Does anyone know how exposed everything under the panel is? e.g. is the coin likely to cause a problem if left.
  16. I had my gearbox (and torque converter) replaced under warranty (if you search on here you'll find something on it) which the dealer told me would have cost over £7,000 to fix, which was mentioned in the other thread (and previous threads on here) . Other than that I love the car to drive/be in, and overall have been happy with it. Toyota have a price for doing the change, and check it during services, though when I spoke to a technician he said the oil typically lasts the life of the gearbox/car. I've read elsewhere (American forums related to some Nissan car's CVT boxes that it should be replaced every 50K whether it's needed or not!).
  17. Cheers for all the replies. Frostyballs, I suspect you're replying to the other posts in this thread, though I wouldn't expect good will if taking the car elsewhere to be serviced. As you said it's a two-way thing. My dilemma was more towards whether to go for cheaper servicing/repairs and give up the potential for good will, or stick with the main dealer just in case something expensive needs repairing in the future, on the off-chance that I'd get a good will contribution.
  18. Cheers for that, it's good to confirm. Profile also updated to include (the wife's) Auris
  19. I only noticed this at the weekend when checking the lights (which may indicate how often it's been done!) Am I right in saying that the Auris (2009) only has one rear fog light (on the right), and only one reversing light (on the left)?
  20. My Avensis (2011 T4 CVT) is now a few months out of it's 5 year warranty, (and about 1000 miles overdue it's next service - which IIRC is a full one). Looking on the fixed price servicing page it looks like this one will cost £330 . They also do an Essential Care service for cars over 5 years old for £180. The local independent who I've been using for my wife's car for the last year or so would charge around £110 for their 'full service'. I also think the rear brake disks are going to need doing soon, and possibly front tyres too, so this could come to quite a hefty bill if using the Toyota dealer. On the other hand, I had to have the gearbox replaced under warranty last year (would have cost >£7,000), so I'm wondering whether it's better to stick with Toyota in case there's ever the need to request a goodwill payment in the future (though I may have scuppered all chances of that being over the service interval now anyway!). Any thoughts on when's the right time to jump from main dealer servicing to local independent? Car's done approx 75K miles, and I'm most likely planning/hoping to keep the car until it dies if that makes a difference.
  21. Thanks for all the input everyone. It's good to be able to put my mind at rest :-)
  22. Thanks for that. Panic over So is it normal for it to still be dripping 5 hours after parking? Also, is it normal for it to drip onto something? My initial thought was that it would speed up the corrosion of whatever it's dripping on, though I suppose the underside of the car is used to getting wet here in the UK! I can't believe that in over 15 years of driving I've never noticed this before
  23. After a ~20 mile trip home (mainly motorway/dual carriage way) this (hot, sunny) afternoon, I noticed a wet patch on my drive. Upon closer inspection, there was a constant dripping from the pipe indicated in red on the attached pictures (front, passenger side). The liquid is clear, the coolant level (which is pink anyway) doesn't seem to have dropped. The dripping seems to be dropping down to the area indicated by the yellow circle and then onto the floor (where it left an approx 40 x 15 cm patch). Any ideas as to what it might be? Is it a leak, a disconnected pipe or some sort of overflow? Power steering fluid? Air-con coolant? Brake fluid? Edit: I'm not sure if the pipe is disconnected from the bottom part, or if it's just the pictures making it look that way. Also I still have 1 month warranty left if needed. Edit 2: Just been back out to check it, and after 5 hours parked it's still dripping. Engine starts fine, and no warning lights are displayed.
  24. The issue with extending warranties is that it's at a cost of £500 per year, ongoing! (I suppose it's an option to consider when comparing to taking a depreciation hit when selling). Unfortunately the 2 years for the price of 1, is limited to I think 10 or 12K (less than I currently do anyway), otherwise I'd be more tempted. As for modern vs older - I see your point (and safer is definitely better), but it's frustrating that technology has moved on so much, without reliability keeping up. Or maybe it's the massive cost of replacement components that are putting me off - some of which cost more than a cheap banger!) There are so many older Japanese cars on the road (plenty of 20 year old Nissan's and Toyota's) and so I guess that I feel I shouldn't have to pay for a warranty on my own car once it hits just 5 years (a baby compared to many others). I've already paid a premium buying at just three years old. I guess it's maybe all elements to be aware of when purchasing a new/almost new modern car, that I hadn't properly anticipated.
  25. Well, it's now been 12 months since after much deliberation I bought my 2011 T4 Tourer, so I thought I'd post my thoughts, and ask your opinions on something... The car itself I love: it's comfortable for long journeys (7.5 hours without a break recently), smooth to drive, quick enough, full of gadgets, massive boot, great to look at etc. But unfortunately I've been left with real doubts about it's reliability (which is one of the key reasons I went with the Toyota in the first place). In the last twelve months I've had it, it's had:its electronic handbrake actuator replaced (approx £1500),the boot struts (approx £180),the water pump (£????)More worryingly I recently reported a strange sound when driving, which turned out to be the CVT gearbox which needed replacing, and later (as part of the same repair) the torque converter was also replaced (after being ordered from Japan!) - total estimated cost for parts and labour for gearbox replacement was £7,000+. This also left me without my 'reliable' car for 3 weeks! Fortunately all this was repaired under warranty, but my deep worry is that if so much has gone so wrong so early (4 years old and < 60K miles) that it won't be long before things go wrong again when out of warranty (another 12 months), making it uneconomical to repair. If the gear box goes again in 4 years at 110K miles - I really don't want to have to pay £7,000+ to repair it, and the car will be worthless. It seems there's just too much expensive stuff to go wrong, in comparison to the more traditional buy and keep till it dies Toyota. Also, despite driving like a saint (smooth and at 60, though with occasional heavy traffic) I'm still only managing to get 36 MPG. I got more than that in my old 13 year old Nissan Primera! I'm not here to slam Toyota, or even the Avensis, but wanted to note my experience. Does part-exchanging now and taking a depreciation hit seem rational, or am I over reacting?