Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Established Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by TomdeGuerre

  1. Interesting to read about Toyota’s 1.2 turbo engine. Only way to really know these engines is to go on a course and them work on them but from review of the info there it seems (1) The engine does have an EGR valve, operated by an electrically driven stepper motor. I thought they would have achieved exhaust gas recirculation using the variable valve timing and have less trouble that way. (2) Apparently the engine does not have direct fuel injection. The article says the injectors are in the cylinder head but placed as close as possible to the inlet valves. This would suggest fuel being port injected close to the inlet valves to keep carbon formation to a minimum. I wonder about direct injection anyway because DI engines have greater carbon formation around injector tips and piston crowns. As previously mentioned, Toyota has modded Lexus DI engines to also have port injection. (3) The thermostat opening temperature is given as 80 to 82 deg C. That’s a very cold temp, maybe OK in very high ambient temperatures but not very good for getting up to heat on a winter morning. (4) The engine has a claimed 185 Nm of torque between 1,800 and 5,000 rpm and I find this hard to believe. For one thing it will not produce this power while it is in the Atkinson cycle. So far I’ve never seen any independent verification of the claimed power/TQ graphs.
  2. It's fair to say that diesels can me noisier than petrols but you'd probably be better to let a mechanic hear it at first hand to set your mind at rest.
  3. There's a thread which might be of help to you http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/85772-remove-alternator/
  4. Oooooops nothing....... time to feed yer dug.
  5. It's that tuning chip you've fitted, it modifies the signal from the injectors to fool the ECU into increasing the fuel flow. That's why the instant fuel readout shows low since the ECU is being fed false data and the real flow (and therefore the consumption) is higher. The range left is calculated from the distance covered against fuel left in the tank .
  6. TomdeGuerre


    I take it you have removed the whole propshaft? Remove the six bolts around the drive flange at the rear of the centre bearing (they may well be Torx bolts) and separate the rear half of the drive shaft from the front. It leaves the flange still attached by a large nut. .
  7. There's been a number of threads about the poor headlights on the Auris - I had the headlights changed on mine after raising the issue with Toyota Customer Services. The new headlights are better, they improve lateral illumination, but they still leave something to be desired since they are flat beam type ie they are very poor at picking up road signs or, more seriously, cyclists or pedestrians ahead of you at night on unlit roads. Couple of threads where the issue has been discussed: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/154269-auris-2013-excel-hybrid-poor-headlights/?hl=headlights http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/170111-new-led-headlights-install/#comment-1401665
  8. The injector driver reduces current flow to the injectors at idle to quieten them down. Once you rev up you can hear them up to about 2,000 then progressively the engine noise drowns them out. What did they tell you at the workshop when they changed the injectors.
  9. Piccies or it didn't happen. Thought the car might turn out to be minty front and back with big hole in the middle. Call it a Polo if that was the case.
  10. The warning light will flash on and off if there is water in the filter. If the filter is clogged the light will stay on. I assume you have cleaned out all the old fuel and primed the system properly after changing the filter. Two procedures to put out the warning light (according to Toyota Nation) 1. Disconnect top wires or plug on filter housing with the ignition OFF 2. Turn the ignition ON 3. Plug top wires or plug back in within 60 seconds 4. Turn ignition OFF 5. Turn ignition back ON and start vehicle The light should now be off. If the light is still on try bleeding the system again then go through above procedure to turn the light off. OR try this: 1. With the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the fuel filter warning switch connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch from OFF to ON. 3. After more than 3 seconds but less than 60 seconds have elapsed, reconnect the connector. 4. After approximately 3 seconds have elapsed with the fuel filter warning switch closed, the system confirms the deletion of the illumination information by turning off* the warning light.
  11. Repair looks good Frankie, just a quick question, are there any fuel pipes in the area behind the shield? Just wondered if the shield protects 'em from heat off the exhaust..
  12. Is this welder called Donkey? Claims he turned up after you left............ ….. hee haw,,,,,, hee haw he halways claims something like that. Take piccies? Aye, piccies of Donkey’s physogue and put them on your dartboard. Do you know why welders are like pros? Because you usually find them in awkward positions screaming for more rod and more money.
  13. Did you give him any advance sub 2sav? He'll be down the boozer, u know what they're like. When you go to see him remember Teddy Roosevelt, speak softly and carry a big stick
  14. Looks like you were making some headway polishing out some of the damage. I'd be inclined to just touch up the rest with an aerosol. How long does she intend to keep the car? Seriously, if she's prone to dinging the back of the car it's not worth repairing it properly until such times as you're ready to get rid of it. Then I'd look for a replacement bumper..
  15. My Auris has a height-adjustable passengers seat, manually operated, the salesman said the Auris range all had them. My wife thought it was a good feature along with the reversing camera fitted as standard. I don't know whether the Auris seat would fit the Avensis seat base or match up with the interior but it's maybe worth bearing in mind.
  16. That speedometer looks to me as if it's been clocked, the numbers should line up better if the reading is genuine. Do you have any MOT or service history to indicate / corroborate the mileage?
  17. So maybe you'd care to describe coolant flow on systems with bypass thermostat vs systems with non-bypass thermostats?
  18. Thanks but I don't need a lecture about welding up exhaust systems. Worked too long in the trade, suffered too many ttight wads wanting their rotten systems patched up as well as punctures repaired on their threadbare tyres. Even had a guy come in with his wiper motor not working and brought in a scrap motor with stripped gears, wanted us to strip down the scrap motor and get the brushes out of it to see if they would fit his motor.
  19. I'd sure be interested to know how the brushes could cause 26 VAC output on the alternator.
  20. You have to be careful with aftermarket systems. Devon Aygo posted “Early 2.0 4.2 Ravs had potential software fault where the ECU can misinterpret the O2 sensor readings this can cause damage to the catalyst through misfuelling as well as a potential issue with the catalyst itself where it can fail prematurely as a chemical coating inside the cat can peel away . The official fix was an ECU software update and a modified catalyst assy”. Not saying this applies to the OP’s vehicle but sometimes if you use cheap aftermarket parts you might wind up with warning lights and trouble. http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/170326-rav-4-cat/#comment-1400412
  21. Hill start/Assist Control
  22. Maybe they're just cutting themselves a bit of slack with a ballpark figure of £1,000. You might run into having to replace the CAT as well as any sensors involved - if they're Toyota parts they can be expensive. Much better to quote high and maybe have final price lower than vice versa.
  23. It's possible you have been doing a lot of short runs like Nick says and your DPF needs to regenerate. When this is going on engine performance will suffer and fuel consumption will be worse. This might have happened subsequent to the service and certainly wouldn't be the garage's fault. If you don't do a lot of mileage take it for a 20 mile run or so on the motorway and keep it in a low enough gear to keep the engine revs up beyond 2,000 rpm, see if this helps.
  24. It's different with a turbo diesel innit Frankie. An old fashioned petrol engine with suction in the inlet manifold could draw out the crankcase fumes and the PCV would shut off at idle speed to avoid a massive air leak. With a turbo diesel you have pressure in the manifold so the crankcase usually vents into the turbo inlet pipe / duct.
  25. To understand your figures better I did a quick conversion to miles per gallon using 4.54 = 1 Imperial gallon and 100 km = 62 miles. So 4.55 litres per 100 km = almost 62 mpg. 5.55 litres per 100 km = 50.8 mpg. Quite a drop but still mighty impressive compared to the likes of what I get. Are these figures from your onboard computer? What's your average speed?
  • Create New...