bathtub tom

It's colder and the engine runs richer for a longer period of time. My consumption has deteriorated considerably recently, but I've been doing many more short journeys as well. What's your usage like?

I've a receipt somewhere that states: "1 bleeding screw". Couldn't bear to throw it away.

Interestingly, the PCD, centre bore and offset are the same: Mazda MX5 4 x 100 35...42 54 Yaris 98> 4x100 35 - 42 54.1

If you're prepared to use a Yaris space-saver, then why not use your existing nuts?

I understand Ford and Honda are returning to torque converter boxes in their automatics as automated manuals prove too troublesome. It seems Toyota ditched automated manuals some time ago.

Check the difference in circumference before you make any decision. This calculator may help: https://www.carbibles.com/calculators/ You'll also need to consider PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter, the diameter of the centre radius of the fixing holes), offset (the difference between the fixing holes and the edges of the rim) and the CB (Centre Bore - the diameter of the hole in the centre of the wheel).

No need to jack it up, just feel each wheel and tyre for temperature after a run. The fronts will probably be slightly warmer than the rears as, I assume, it's not a hybrid.

OP doesn't say what country they're in, only that their fuel consumption has been consistent "for the better part of the year". I'd suggest that with the onset of cooler temperatures, the car's running richer for longer resulting in higher consumption (mine certainly is).

I understood it disables itself around temperatures of five degrees centigrade and lower to prevent damage from freezing.

E-bay, with an honest description of everything that works and doesn't work.

Here's a review of them: https://tinyurl.com/ub4pqd9 Personally, I find my Yaris the worst car I've ever had for stability in crosswinds, other than my bubble car.

Please don't go spraying WD40 around willy nilly, especially around brakes - it contains oil. The last thing you want on braking surfaces.

Not these, they seem to be surface mount. I tried to take mine apart. First of all it's a challenge to get the thing out. Secondly, it's almost impossible to take apart - I had several bits of broken plastic laying around. In the end I gave up and put back what was left. I had to get the @@?% thing out first and then forgot to make a note of the part number on it.

I noticed a strange noise from my Yaris at full lock - low speed - cold weather. Decided it was tyres juddering over the ground. I read somewhere about a 'modified Ackerman' steering geometry on them. Ackerman isn't a perfect solution for different radii of steered wheels and I don't know how Toyota have modified it.

Unfortunately, I find myself in the same position as the OP, with one LED (of six) failed. I understand this light costs around £80 from Toyota, so I took mine apart to see if I can replace the failed LED. It doesn't seem possible and I've now got a loosely fitted third brake light. The MOT tester's manual states: (a) Stop lamp(s): (i) with a multiple light source up to 1/2 not functioning Minor So that looks like an 'advisory' to me. I'll have to find some mastic to seal it to the tailgate.