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About StephenBK

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  1. Right its all sorted. It was indeed the batteries - to an extent. Bit more complicated though, it was also the contacts inside. For instance the second fob was fitted with the same (Duracell) battery as the first but the car was not outside to test it - and when tried it didn't work! So I went back (as not having a very small screwdriver) and found that by very gingerly tweaking the contacts out a bit it could be made to work fine. I think this was done to an extent by the chap in the shop for the first fob but its a while ago now and its taken that time to get the situation really clear. What remains mysterious is why with the previous batter/contact situation, the lock function was very effective but the unlock function very difficult; this was what confused me mightily and caused the suspicion that it was more than just the batteries. The old batteries still had about 3 V in them, the new ones were reading about 3.5 or so. It may well be all they really needed was the contacts tweaking, and at a guess this may be reflected in the post above from Fitter about using thicker batteries - that would achieve a similar situation.
  2. Thanks to both, will investigate those suggestions and report back!
  3. Greetings all. Both my two fobs have started to behave questionably. They both happily lock the car from even quite a distance, but it has become slow and difficult to persuade it to open. Very occasionally, from a few yards (usually behind) away it opens without hesitation, but more often than not it takes quite a lot of button pressing. Might this be the batteries? If so does locking take less power than opening? Or have they gone out of sync? I have read several other threads but am not sure which syncing method applies to my 2005 model, or indeed whether they are that reliable for a novice! Tangent; the other morning when it was extremely frosty it took an absolute age to get it to open. The de-icing stuff was inside the car ... does the presence of frost on the windows affect the signal? Thanks! Stephen
  4. Final - hopefully - update on this. The Avensis was towed down to a diesel specialist, still showing fault codes, who according to the invoice; "found Injector Contactor Connectors were spread apart. Gently bend/realign Connectors and refitted plug" ... since when car was driven back 20 miles and by me back home. Tangential thought; there was a big problem towing the car, as the towing hook near the front was inaccessible to the garage's fixed bar system - without crushing the bumper. So they took it off to tow. At least, in so doing, they confirmed that there had been previous damage to the O/S as had been suspected due to the different headlight units.
  5. Sorry I didn't make a note of the fault codes when I was at the garage.
  6. Its the 2.2 but that unit is the same. Today's update; having seemed fixed yesterday (though no driving) this morning it was very slow to start again, fault lights back. I was driving along when it cut out without warning, and did so a couple of times more on the way to the garage. The injector fault codes refused to clear. They sprayed the connections with contact cleaner. Now it more or less refuses to do anything so is being lifted down to the diesel specialist 20 miles away for further tests before the new injector unit gets ordered.
  7. Hello folks. I don't think I ever got around to discussing this here before. I got my 100K 05 diesel in October last year and about February it began to randomly stop without warning - every few days, so off to the garage. The fault codes weren't much help. Three warning lights on the dash would eventually spontaneously disappear. Then it would happen again. It gradually took longer and longer to restart. Off to a diesel specialist for whom it refused to misbehave. One of the things the latter mechanic mentioned was that he'd unplugged the injector control unit (I think I've got that right) in case some slight tarnish was happening within. Fast-forward to last night and it had been working sweet as could be since Easter, then it wouldn't start to go home. Wait and breathe deeply, try again and push the gas, and it reluctantly started, and drove home fine with the warning lights on as before. Today I went out and uplugged and replugged the unit - and the warning lights are gone! Seems fine again. So my question; is this a known problem, if so is it the icu that's making the difference? Is there something more sinister going on?
  8. Nope, merely the fact of the change. I doubt the previous owner would know the implicatins, and would suspect they wouldn't go to a main dealer, though have no idea when the change was made. NB, they took months to reply to my request for info. Its been sitting parked since Tuesday but will have a good work out Friday and Saturday. Is it legal to drive with fingers crossed?
  9. P0200 is indeed injector circuit. Its worth adding that physically the engine is running as sweet as can be, cold, hot or whatever.
  10. So if a T dealer fitted the part they would have been sure to do it properly ... if somebody else was able to procure the part but was not able to do it properly, why were they allowed to obtain the part?! The previous owner to 4 months to reply to my request the first time ...
  11. All I know from the previous only is 'it had an new injector' - not even sure if it was under his ownership or before. Would such a procedure not be the normal thing? ... and if not, would it not have shown up in what has been investigated so far (by a diesel specialist garage)?
  12. Apparently the battery it came with from the dealer was too small. It had always been a touch unenthusiastic to start, which I put down to the cold and the supposed age of the battery; so, is the suggestion that the use of an inappropropriate battery battery for however long (minimum from October to February, nearly 5K miles) is causing the current problem?
  13. Interesting, nobody's mentioned that. Any suggestions what the issue might be, and the remedy?
  14. The car is a 2.2 Diesel D-4D (estate) 05, bought from a dealer last October at just under 100K, fine until recently at 6K miles later. (I had reason to contact the previous owner who said all he knew was it had had a new injector). In case useful here is the first incident; in the cold weather it was getting hard to start, 5 goes once, I put this down to the cold and an assumed old battery - a service was nigh. Then one day, pulling away from the kerb it just stopped and refused to start. RAC got it going and we went to my garage, who said they'd do the service and see it anything turned up, which it didn't except that it had the wrong size battery. The reason I suspect a connection with the following is it was only a couple of weeks before, and it didn't seem like a regular dead old battery problem. Anyhow, since then it started cutting out without the slightest warning. First 2 times at 60 on major roads, then leaving a roundabout, - these all about 200 miles apart, each time after a reasonable amount of time driving. Each time it starts again, unlike the very first time, but after an increasing amount of time in each case. 4th time, manoeuvring in a carpark. Good 2 minutes to start. Then, only about 10 miles later, and a good 5 minutes to start. This last really freaked me out, so it was back to the garage (already booked in by that stage) but the fault lights on the dash were gone by the time it got there, and while they could read the old fault codes there was nothing actually wrong at the time. They kept it for a couple of days, gave it a serious drive about, it behaved impeccably. I got in to drive it away - and it wouldn't start!!! They took it to a local diesel specialist, who kept it several days and drove about at my expense but also found it behaved perfectly. The dreaded Intermittant Problem! I've just got it back home again. The invoice lists; "Carry out diagnostic test on vehicle Fault P0200 logged. Tested wiring from Injectors to Injector control Unit, all OK, Checked Injector resistances and for shorting to ground, ok.Checked injector control unit terminals, all OK.Road tested for 65 miles and rechecked for faults, OK." (and that came to £150!) All suggestions or advice gratefully received! Stephen
  15. Thanks, but as I said, its not the navigation I'm interested in. As is shown in the video still, there's a cover to the back of the remote and on mine it is missing and I'm concerned that its those extra buttons that would give access to the MPG information that I am interested in.