Adam2050

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About Adam2050

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Adam
  • Toyota Model
    Rav 4 2.2 XTR
  • Toyota Year
    2008
  • Location
    Shropshire

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  1. Cheers for the response frosty, even more confused as clearly british codes are even more confusing :D According to that useful site, need a c-3 or c-2 compliant oil, so getting there on the figuring out what's best.
  2. Shell Oil Bamboozle (Rav4 D4D 2.2) 2008 Hey as an amatuer this year I thought I would change my oil under supervision from a mechanic friend of mine. So I found a deal on 5w30 oil on Europarts (UK) http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/5w30-engine-oil/?521772611&0&cc5_247 Europarts match via number plate to which it lists versions of the lubricant AG, A-ML (most expensive at 10 times the cost), AF, ECT C3, ARL, A-F, and finally APL With a code it comes the AF version comes to £14.99 or there abouts. So I go to shell website and use there tool http://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/oils-lubricants/lubematch.html It matches your car to what type of oil you need. It says A-ML which is £50.99 for 5L instead of the AF (this one roughly states some about the particulate filters on Mercedes) Please could someone decpher these codes and what they actually mean? And if anyone has any experience with the filters, could you recommend the best non-Toyota super official expensive parts please. If I was in America I would just go for the company that made oil for Jap cars, oh how life would be more simple.
  3. Sorry forgot to update this, after many comings and goings with Toyota Dealership they agreed to foot the remainder on the bill. I was very thankful to say the least and will defo be returning if customer service remains priority.
  4. I am too getting this error msg, started again two weeks after getting it back off Toyota, I was free braking slowing to a traffic light. Though it comes on randomly after so many miles, Toyota had it back to do the turbo and it started doing this just before it went in. They couldn't find any codes on it and reset it then did it again afterwards when I took it away briefly. No codes were found, they said I and the AA using there new bosch kits had messed with the computer codes, I too had one of these but was testing it after the lights come on, so the best way is to connect it up then drive and let the error lights occur?
  5. Feeling very disappointed with my whole experience from Lindops, basically the manager came back and it's unlikely they are going to shift on the bill left to me. Looks like the parts/service manager been left looking very unhelpful when the dealership is unwilling to see the bigger picture and respect a customer, at first the manager thought I was being funny with them, but understood that I was just feeling hard done by when you spend the sort of money asked for the car and basically the warranty company don't cover the 'service manual', but basically try and appease the situation (Paying half). Car's faulty regardless of whether it's a little bit or a lot. Still leaving me out of pocket on a car I've hardly used (now had a courtesy car more then my own car). I understood my mechanic had exhausted the avenues they are given, but can't keep thinking buying another car from Toyota would not be a great idea, when I have a Honda dealership so close by, which is a shame because I'm a fine of Toyotoa. Anyone know if there's any point of me approaching citizens advice or trading standards? (basically asking what my best path is or whether I'm going to have to write letters to certain people to try and get my money back in some way shape or form?) Currently I haven't had my car back so haven't paid anything yet.
  6. The car is from Linops in Wrexham, any thoughts on my chances with management there? Thanks for the advice so far.
  7. The warranty company requested it be sent off to an independent tester, who deemed it within the parameters of the turbo (play) The turbo is outside 'parameters' set by Toyotoa (handbook) They sent someone out and it's fitted back on the car and still making noise but operating (it's a failing part) I haven't talked to management but I will do if needed. There's no way I should be paying the money asked to refit a faulty part, when I've already had the dual mass fly wheel and clutch replaced under warranty again on the same car within 6 months of the warranty. I've never had so many problems with any car in such a short period of time and not something I would expect of a highly rated Toyota car. There is also another issue that will have to be address on the car (believe it's a faulty sensor on one of the wheels) that hasn't even been tackled yet as the Dealer is going for one at a time, so three major faults on a car I've had to drive around less then 3 months (as the dealer has had it for longer then the time I've had it fighting it out with the warranty company). Family members have suggested getting the dealership to refund me though I'm unsure if I have any legal grounds to try and get one.
  8. Sent a guy out to inspect, but the Toyota mechanic still reckons they will refuse it. How do I approach this now as the bill will be pushed my way and still left with a faulty turbo. Fuming.
  9. Talking to the Toyota mechanic again, they fitted it to a test rig without pressure and couldn't see any fault, verbally he said to the Toyota mechanic that there was play, he's unsure this is in the report as there waiting for it to return to them and to make sure the report stats the play even though the independent tester thinks the turbos fit for use. So the mechanic is trying to get evidence in that way, he said they stripped the turbo down also for testing. The warranty company did this with the dual mass fly wheel on it, and tried to get out of that by stating it was 'wear and tear' but eventually conceded that it wasn't. I've told them I'd be pushing the issue for me not to pay for the issue regardless, it's faulty and also tried to avoid them fitting it back, but they already said they would test it which seems pointless. There was noise from the bearing when cold (like a whistle: see video here exactly like that, acted like a dump valve and occasionally smoked) and noise even when warm, like a scrapping from the bearing. The play was apparent when they stripped, along with oil.
  10. There was play in the turbo veins, if that make sense. Which is outside the guide within Toyota's testing. If the Toyota dealer can clearly demonstrate that the free play in the Turbo is outside of the allowance specified by Toyota then there should be no issues regardless of the opinion of the third party They didn't seem so confident about, but there's no way in your opinion they should be fitting it and charging me for the pleasure?
  11. There was play in the turbo veins, if that make sense. Which is outside the guide within Toyota's testing.
  12. So the turbo was taken off my 2008 Rav 4 2.2 Diesel. The play in the turbo was well over the tolerance in the Toyota manual according to the mechanic it also had oil in the housing, so the warranty company asked for it to be sent off to an independent tester, the tester has come back and said its within limits, now obviously the warranty report will reflect this, but obviously the turbo is still faulty. Where do I stand, who should I peruse, as there's no reason I should be paying for this, nor should they refit a faulty turbo to my Rav 4?
  13. There was a load on that well known auction site last month, I checked for the Sat Nav version for my rav just to get an idea of cost. I would possibly look at breakers yards.
  14. Again no errors found after having the car only 5 months little disappointed to say the least.