VosperD

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About VosperD

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Don
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris
  • Toyota Year
    2001
  • Location
    Somerset
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    Car Restoration
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. Exhaust is in good condition but noisy. some days worse than others. How many seals are there? Are they the same? I see there are kits available with bolts, springs and seals as mine look quite rusty? Might go for those in case something shears off. Thanks. Don Bristol
  2. Thanks for the replies. I understand that WD40 is not much good as penetrating oil. Haven't seen PusGas in the shops for a while but I'm sure it is still available , . . at a price. I don't have any ATF to hand at the moment but I see that vegetable oil is a possible substitiute so I've tried that with some acetone. The manifold looks ok but I can see some signs of surface rust in places. Don
  3. i took the Yaris (1.0, 2001) in for two new front tyres and they checked the exhaust that has recently started blowing. Their diagnosis was that the coupling between the manifold and downpipe needed tightening. As the bolts were well rusted and the leak wasn't too bad they didn't attempt a repair as they were afraid the bolts might shear and they wouldn't get a replacements straight away. Am I right in thinking that these bolts are shouldered and it's the two springs that hold the seal in place? Had a quick look and can't shift the bols myself so far. Don
  4. Thanks for the photo I have yet to make enquiries. I think i will take one side off and see if the ends are removable. As you say, if it isn't broke..... It's MoT time for the Yaris on Friday. keeping fingers crossed no major expense! Cheers Don
  5. Yes the top is a conventional ball joint. Doesn't look detachable. SGS have just got back to me, their £87.99 price entails me sending them my old struts and they will fit the brackets to their struts. The bracket is in two parts and one part is welded to the strut, The other part is just bolted to the car of course. Mine are working ok at the moment but the tops are a bit rusty and they are 20+ years old. Thanks for the link. I will make enquiries. Cheers Don
  6. I will be interested in the outcome. I was looking into replacing those on my 1998 GS before i saw your post. SGS website quotes £32.00 a pair for my car. However, things are not so simple. Apparently my struts are fitted with brackets that are unique to Toyota. After speaking to SGS today the price for a pair is now £87,99. They say that they can transfer the brackets but I'm waiting to hear if that is extra. Don
  7. Have you tried a company called SGS-Engineering. Easy to find on the web and you can do search for you particular model. Don
  8. VosperD

    Alarm system

    Geoff. I have an R Reg Corolla. If I locked the doors with the fob and unlocked them with the key the alarm went off. I contacted a Toyota garage and the advice given was to stop using the fob because if you lock the car with it and it packs up you are up the creek without a paddle. The Toyota dealer and all of the other auto key specialists I contacted said that replacement fobs of this age are not available. In my searches I read something about the door courtesy light buttons failing and causing problems so I've replaced the front pair that had failed. In the meantime the battery went flat in the fob so I've not got round to testing the system. I know little about how the alarm system on the Toyota works and only going by what i've recently picked up. Don
  9. i'm afraid the Hayne's manual isn't a lot of use as far as removing the alternator is concerned. I had a quick look at our car which has the same engine, with the alternator on the rear and I can see the adjusting bolt at the top and at the bottom there is the pivot bracket , from the driver's side I can see a nut, rather than a bolt head and it's certainly not rounded. From what I can see it looks like the bracket is bolted to the engine. So if you have a rounded nut or bolt head perhaps you can remove the bracket itself and sort it out on a bench. Don
  10. If you go for a secondhand battery you might get one like your existing one! I would go for the correct rating for the car whatever that is.If we get a really cold spell you could be in trouble if you buy an under rated one. You may also be in trouble with the warranty in the unlikely event that it fails. You can go on line to a number of battery suppliers and type in your registration number and they should come up with a number of options. It look like prices have gone up a bit since my last purchase but you should get something for £50 - £60. If the dealer says 50 AH is ok then go for it. Don
  11. You're going to have to be quick as most places will be shut tomorrow! If not Halfords try Kwik Fit or other local tyre/battery suppliers. I'ts difficult to reccommend any particular brand as people seem to have different experiences. At least if you buy one locally you can take it back if it fails during warranty. As I mentioned before I don't pay the max price for batteries and I've always had good life from the ones I've bought. Don
  12. To answer one of your questions, A battery bought in 2015 would probably be sealed and you would not be able to top it up. If you have a battery charger give it a good charge and try it on a cold morning and see how it starts. If you have a voltmeter and do the test mentioned in a previous post and the alternator is working then it is possible that your battery has not lasted as long as one would hope. If it's not under warranty I would go for a cheap battery on ebay, In my experience they last a good time and are a lot cheaper than Halfords. In my early days of motoring I had to carry the battery upstairs to charge it as I lived in a block of flats. In those days you never bought a new on until you had to. Mind you you had starting handles which usually got you going then. Bit difficult with these transverse engines nowadays. Don
  13. Thanks DeTomato. I'm slowly finding my way round the electrics on this car. I've found the relay for the compressor and swapped that but it didn't solve the problem. I see that there are one or two fuses relating to the aircon, fans etc but not identified the one for the compressor yet. Don
  14. Thanks again for reply. In this case the compressor is on the front lower position on the engine. as mentioned in my edited post i can see the outer rotating but not the inner and no click. So looks like a possible electrical problem. Relay or fuse perhaps. Further investigations needed. Cars been taken shopping now so lost for the rest of today's daylight hours. Don
  15. Checked it this morning and I can hear the engine change when either the headlights or the rear demister are switched on but nothing when the aircon is switched on. Later on I'll get someone to operate the switch whilst I look under the bonnet. Which one is the compressor on this engine? Don OK, looks like the compressor is in the lower position on the front of the engine. I can see the outer part of the pulley revolving but the inner doesn't rotate even when the A/C button is pressed.