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Everything posted by Kmac888

  1. not a bad price.....tyres don't seem to last as long as they used to still have 4mm remaining
  2. asda have quoted £127 for both fronts c for fuel b for wet rating inc fitting less than a mile from me so happy with that
  3. thanks- the rears look ok with 6mm remining and only 2 years old but you are right.....now that it's on my mind I will need to have a closer look at them to make sure. For now replacing the fronts is a priority. Surprisingly Asda is cheaper than costco (didn't know asda did tyres!!!!)
  4. thanks for those replies I didn't know about the date stamp until you mentioned it. I drive on the motorway every day 250 miles per week. I'm going to replace both front tyres....thanks everyone for your help and advice much appreciated
  5. rears are 2020 (6mm) fronts are 2018 (4mm) it's the fronts that are cracked
  6. not sure only had this car for about a year but the rear tyres are the same brand and both have 6mm tread on them (champiro fe1) so I'm guessing whoever had the car before me put a full set (4) on
  7. hi everyone I've just noticed some long vertical cracks in my tyres inbetween the treads (please see pictures) these are on both front tyres which have approx 4mm tread remaining. Are they safe or do they need to be replaced? The cracks are more noticable when the tyres are dry. Thank you
  8. a big thank you to flash22 for those instructions I now know where I went wrong not opening those 2 valves. I am now at the end part of those instructions where it says "allow the coolant to circulate for several minutes". I am waiting for the engine to cool down before adding more coolant as it is way below the minimum level. My question is do I need to open the valves again to add more coolant (I still have another 2 litres to add as I removed/drained 3.5 in total. Thanks
  9. oh.....so I need to find a tube that fits into valve b 🥺
  10. I have just been back to the car....there is no tube to attach to bleed valve "b" and the bleed valve b cannot be unscrewed its fixed in place please see pictures
  11. thanks for the replies...so If I start over by draining the coolant again through the tap at the bottom of the radiator. Then open the valve on the expansion tank next to the cap, open valve b and attach tube then add coolant to expansion tank close both valves remove tube and start the engine. No need to burp air as with older cars??
  12. hi everyone. today I decided to replace my coolant/antifreeze (2012 Yaris 1.4 d4d) it doesn't have a metal radiator cap only a plastic expansion bottle. So I drained the coolant from the tap at the bottom of the radiator (3.5 litres came out) then refilled the expansion bottle and ran the engine to burp the air out (cap off). The problem is it was running for over an hour (heater on full) but the fan didn't come on or the thermostat open. I had to rev the engine to 2k for the fan to come on...... but the coolant seems to be just sitting in the expansion tank and not flowing to the radiator when the thermostat opened. While I was waiting and doing a lot of swearing and wishing I had not started this whole thing I noticed a sticker on the bonnet that says "when adding coolant open 2 air bleed valves then close valves and start the engine". I have looked on google and can't find anything about this. There is a black round plastic screw on the expansion tank and a rubber bung next to the cap....car not overheating but I don't have a temp guage only a light that come on blue for cold and red for hot!!!! What am I doing wrong.....please help!!!!!
  13. hi everyone I'm happy with my 2012 Yaris 1.4 d4d it is just approaching 81k on the clock. I'm thinking of a stage 1 remap to increase power (from 90 to 115bhp) but mainly for economy as my commute to work is nearly 300 miles per week (90% motorway) the advertised cost of this is £170 1) is it worth it? 2) is 10 years old and 81k too late? thanks
  14. would you use the castrol edge 5w30 in the petrol yaris (2012) or should I go for 0w20
  15. thank you all for your advice. I have now bought some carlube R-tec23 which is a "c2" low sap fully synthetic 5w30. I still have the castrol edge and was wondering if I can use this in my partners Yaris its the same year as mine but a 1.3 petrol. The manual says it prefers 0w20 but 5w30 is an alternative. The weather in the UK isn't cold enough to warrant a 0w.....what do you think?
  16. thank you all for the advise much appreciated
  17. thanks google is full of conflicting information I don't have an owners manual but even if I did the information would be 10 years out of date
  18. it says c3....does this surpass c2 in the same way brake fluid dot4 exceeds dot3? thanls
  19. hi everyone. I was in costco yesterday, they had 4 litres of Castrol Edge LL 5w30 full synthetic for a bargain £21. I bought it immediately but then went on line and found some conflicting information. Some say this is not suitable for my vehicle others say as long as its 5w30 its fine. I'm worried because I don't want to use the wrong type of oil as I only do an oil/filter change once per year. My car is a 2012 Yaris 1.4 diesel with DPF
  20. I think its an intermittent fault because now its working - unless all the grease I sprayed yesterday has found its way around the mechanism overnight!!!! This car is more like an Alfa Romeo than a Toyota. I miss my mk1 it was much more reliable - probably because it was built by the Japanese and not a bunch of cheese eating surrender monkeys
  21. if you mean the button next to the camera that works the boot opens normally
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