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Everything posted by ABToyota

  1. How many people are considering buying an all electric car? The industry has really moved quite rapidly. I understand that electric cars might not be practical for many - you need your own garage or driveway to park and charge the car and if you commit to a brand then you will need to invest in their charging system. Once people go for a bran - how loathe will they be to remove their charging ports in their homes.
  2. Can you confirm the 16W stop lamp and the 5w standard capless have the same connector - its just a push fit / wedge type.
  3. The tail light and the stop light. The car has been parked up and it's due its MOT so I was just doing the basic checks. Looking at the bulbs in my hand they both seem to have the same fitting but going on the manual it seems to suggest they are different. I don't want to put the wrong bulbs in as they really are important - and an easy 3 pts if you get stopped I think.
  4. I looked in the manual and it states Stop Light - 16 w Wedge Base Clear Tail Light - 5 w Single End Bulb I took the bulbs out and they seem to have the same type of connection - so I am confused as to which ones I need to get as in the manual it seems that they have different connectors. I checked on EuroCarparts and they listed both as capless wedge? https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/osram-921-12v-bulb-16w-capless-single-bulb-481770370 https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/neolux-501-capless-wedge-bulb-clear-side-light-indicator-481770136
  5. The car has been parked up for a while and its time for its MOT and service. I can see Shell Mobil 1 for £28 from Euro or £27 for Syntium on ebay. Any difference between the two. Currently I have Syntium in the car and it's been fine. I think I bought the Syntium for £19 last time. Prices shot up.
  6. I did and the service mechanic said 5w30 even though it states 0w20 in the manual - he said 5w30 semi is best, but after reading they tend to recommend that because they possibly make better margins on it. What's the worst that can happen if I go fully synthetic 0w20? Will my engine have a failure or just run poorly which I can then fix by swapping back to 5w30?
  7. Ughh so I decided to get some 0w20 fully syntheitc APi: SN from a local independent dealer and took it down to a mechanic and he said it would be bad for my engine as my engine is used to semi 5w30 and the synthetic will move past the seals used to a thicker oil leading to more oild burn or leaks. I am now back where I started from and just as confused. It's an 09 Auris 1.6 VVTI with 66k miles. I have in the last four years of ownership only every used 5w30 semi from Toyota.
  8. This is just silly. Frosty kindly linked to some Petronas oil available on Amazon sold by EuroCarparts for £22.99 delivered. On EuroCarparts website its £60.99 with a discount today to make it £39.66. On their ebay shop its £22.99. Then Carparts4less is selling it for £18.69 on ebay. Now Carparts4less is a trading name of Euro Car Parts - it states that on their website. It makes no sense.
  9. Thanks. I am going for a fully synthetic oil that is either 0w20 or 5w30 with API SM or SN. Frosty has linked to that Petronas Syntium and I am trying to find it locally rather than wait to have it delivered, if not then I might go for Comma brand oil.
  10. Is that Petronas for newer hybrid engines - I have an older 1.6 petrol vvti engine. Then if fully synthetic is better why does my Toyota dealership always recommend 5w30 semi synthetic?
  11. Thank you for this. I was always under the impression you do your oil change every 10k or 2yrs whichever is the soonest. The car only for school run and odd shopping trip.
  12. Thank you. The GSF price is somehow inflated they are running a discount so the 5l comma 5w30 fs xtech is £19. Not sure what the difference between?the one I posted and the one you posted above is. Re the comma ones.
  13. I have had a look at the manual, the V5 and the car engine - but which type of engine is it. first registered april 2009 Auris 1.6 TR VVT-I V5: ZRE151(H) Engine block : 1Zr - E12U Manual: 1ZR-FE Can this engine use 0w30 Fully synthetic https://www.gsfcarparts.com/980aa2431 Which is a COMMA 5W30 FS XTECH But it states its for Fords but does say API - SL GSF is the nearest to me thats why I chose them first.
  14. I do about 4-5k miles a year. Last service was done about 9k miles ago but mechanic saying oil level is below the dipstick. So wouldn't the engine oil light come on? That means I have used a full 5l can in 2 years even though I only drive 4-5k per year. I have always used Toyota own 5w30 oil even though on their website it states 0w20. Now would changing to a fully synthetic oil be an improvement?
  15. I really need to remove the internal boot trim on the passenger side as I am still getting a leak and its getting infuriating. I have bought a trim removal tool and kit but I cannot fathom where to start. I suspect the leak is from the usual suspects - tail light, boot vent or oil cap. I cannot find a youtube video or any guide online.
  16. About 2 months ago. I just need to dig out the receipt. Do I remove it and take it back but then I have no seal? But car is used daily.
  17. So I had the notorious breaklight seal leak and I bought a new seal from Toyota and fitted it, it looks to have perished again as I see condensation in the lens of the breaklight cover and water is back in my boot. So will Toyota send me a new part or is it a perishable and I need to buy another? I didnt go down the route of using a bead of silicone as wouldnt this make taking the light off in the future really difficult? £15 for a piece of sponge!
  18. Well I had an oil , pollen and air filter changed and replaced the back discs and break pads. My mechanic said put in Apec (£57 for break pads and discs) as he's never had a problem with them. Fitted for £55 so not bad.
  19. I did and they all pointed to either gasket behind the lights or the vents. But then why does it only happen when I have the boot liner down and not when its removed? Also can someone tell me how do I remove the plastic coverings in the boot - I bought a tool off ebay but I can't see any pushpins to remove.
  20. So I had water in the boot and I narrowed it down to the passenger side rear light cluster - the seal had failed. Everything I thought was fine but then I noticed that the cloth in the boot was wet and there were droplets of water condensation on the spare tyre. I took the cloth cover out and let it dry. Checked again and the boot was bone dry. I replaced the cloth cover and a few days later it was again the same dampness like condensation is collecting. I have looked at the rear vents and they are dry on both sides. So what is causing this condensation / dampness?
  21. The Textar ones online are cheaper than the Eicher ones from Eurocarparts which is a surprise.
  22. So do I need handbrake shoe and fitting kit as well?
  23. When I am breaking at low speed I hear a grinding noise from the back tyres - I suspect this is the rear discs and brakes starting to go? So I know a local mechanic and I just get the parts and he fits them in. I just go to Eurocarparts as they seem to have decent prices. What I wasn't sure about is the quality of some makes of brake discs and pads. So which make should I go for and from where?
  24. So I took out the boot carpet and the dried out the wheel. So its rained really heavily and the boot is bone dry. However I have not used the car - its only used for school runs so would this indicate pretty much its from the vents as those would only leak water if the car is driven? Also can someone point put how I remove the trim there are no pushpins it seems the velvet matting / trim just inserts into the grey plastic covers.
  25. If it is the vents - then I would need to remove the trim - how do you do that? The Vents - the black rectangular ones below the car lights?
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