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About scannerman

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  1. Is having your Aircon fixed by Kwik Fit, getting it done by the professionals?
  2. Depends on the interval between use. A good battery should be ok for quite a time, I will guess at least a couple of months. If not I suspect its getting nackered. One thing that might help your situation is to disconnect the battery if you are going to leave the car for a while, the ECU will need to reset on the next drive but it will be more covenient than having to keep charging the battery.
  3. Cars can sometimes suffer from what's called a parasitic draw, basically its equivalent to leaving a light on when you lock and leave the car. A common one was in a boot or trunk as americans call it, light comes on when open, its supposed to go out when shut but how do you know. Look on YouTube, a good source for problem solving. But in your case, at 4 years, the battery is at the end of its life. Although it may not be the specific problem here, changing for a new one is something you're going to need to do soon and it may be the problem. I get mine from Halfords, think I paid last year, £64 with a 4 year warranty.
  4. Sorry, can't recall.
  5. Sounds like a bit of bad circulation, as the car starts, its taking a small amount of time to push the oil to the parts that need it. I think the noise you hear if you start with your foot down is the engine complaining ie. dry bearings, as the engine is running fast straight away, speed equals friction. As I posted earlier, next oil change, do an engine flush. Its relatively inexpensive and cured my similar problem.
  6. This is my opinion only and I know others may disagree, but I dont think the oil spec is that critical as long as its near, Flash is correct about Ambient Temp and age. What I do think is Important is the quality and frequency of change.
  7. If it was hard just after bleeding, then goes soft, its got a leak somewhere, look for fluid around the callipers and wheel cylinders. If you have rear drums you may need to check inside the rear drums, common to miss this one. Don't forget around the master cylinder and servo. If all is dry, you will need to check the brake pipes that run around the car.
  8. Not saying it will be the cheapest, but I've got a Halfords trade card. My local parts wholesaler gives me trade as well. Don't ask, don't get.
  9. Had a similar problem on startup,Rattle and oil light stayed on for second or so. Took a guess that an oilway may be blocked as the car had done 90k mls. Did an engine flush, this cured the problem. I've always used Mobil 5/30 Super 3000, its not a recomendation, just what I use. Its £35.50 for 5lts at Halfords.
  10. Just another thought, I don't think its been mentioned but Its important that the clutch fluid is in good condition. Its supposed to be changed every two years as it deteriates over time, plus the system needs to well bled. Any moisture or air in the system will have the same effect of not fully pushing the clutch pedal so as to not to disengage the clutch.
  11. The gearbox was never the best, although perfectly acceptable with practice. Lots of gearboxes are sometimes reluctant to go into first at standstill, I think its caused by the gears and synchros not rotating. Forcing it will only make it worse, I won't go into detail why. If it's reluctant, put into second and up to first, always works for me. Just for your info, in the DVSA driving book 'The Essential Skills' it mentions that first from standstill it may be a problem in any car, its solution is to go neutral, off the clutch, clutch down and select first again. This box doesn't aways repay quick changes, slamming gears or 'racing' changes are totally unnecessary in modern driving. The synchros action is almost immediate but it does take a tiny time to do it so take your time changing.
  12. This Diagram is for the MTM gearbox, not the 6 speed. The filler for the 6 speed is on the side as someone stated, from memory its on the front side of the box. Remember not to undo the drain plug until you have released the filler plug, nothing worst than dumping the gerbox oil only to strip or break the filler plug. If you are going to replace the gear oil, I would recommend Toyotas own gear oil, whatever the put in it it seems to work and lasts. Unfortunately any extra mats under the pedal will make the gear change bad, if left it may damage the synchros over time.
  13. As the Yaris engine gets older, its had a small occurence of piston ring problems. If the oil gets gummy, due possibly to lots of short journeys, it can restrict the scraping effect of the oil ring. You will notice a gradual drop in oil level if this occurs, its not normally worth a repair. For this reason I would change oil more frequently, say 5k mls. Remember that there are a number of little jobs done by Dealer services that tend to get passed by the local garages and the DIY, like lubricating brake cable pivots and changing fluids rather than just topping up. Oil is the life blood of an engine, it deteriates with use. If you want another 100k, which is not unusual, look after the blood.
  14. I am led to believe that MAF sensors need to be cleaned with, guess what? MAF sensor cleaner. Other cleaners may leave residue on the sensor when dry. I have two Yaris and have cleaned both during services.
  15. Good, but this maybe just the start. Once in, check it turns over healthily, if it doesn't start, get the plugs out, clean em and check they spark, use YouTube to see how. If all is well then find the fuel supply pipe to the injectors. Disconnect the pipe and turn the engine over, is fuel coming out? If yes and it still won't start then I recommend you get professional help. ps. be careful with !Removed! the plugs back in, do it gently, don't crossthread them, you wouldn't be the first.