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scannerman

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About scannerman

  • Rank
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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Noel
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Greater London

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  1. If I'm not mistaken, your car has a hydraulic thrust bearing, ie fluid is pumped into the unit to activate the clutch release. If no other faults can be found else where, this may be faulty. As getting to the unit will be expensive in labour, I would eliminate any other possibilities first.
  2. I think you will find that one switch is to allow starting, the other is to restart after stop/start has stopped the engine.
  3. It appears to me that the switch is not defective. What the mechanic has done in taping it down is exactly what the pedal is supposed to do, when pressed all the way down. As the switch prevents the car turning over on the starter when untaped but allows when taped shows that it's working. I would look to see if there is something preventing the clutch pedal fully depressing. I think there is some element of adjustment in the pedal, also make sure you don't have a secondary floor mat under the pedal. IMHO, the mechanic needs beating with one of his spanners, what he's done is a bodge not a fix
  4. I've mentioned this before, but in case not seen. It happened to my wife's car. Secondary floor mat slipped under the clutch pedal, preventing the pedal going all the way down, it was enough to prevent an easy change and grinding. Cut the corner off the mat, job done.
  5. Did mine a couple of years ago, 80k miles.Rear is a easy to replace as it's a complete unit, bolt off, bolt on, replacing the fronts would require a press plus longer to do. Source mine from a bearing specialist in Sheffield, think it was about £100. As far as Toyota build quality, unfortunatly it can't be responsable for every outide sourced part, when generally they don't fail as yours has, luck of the draw.
  6. I have two 1.3 yaris, had them for a number of years. Both have had replacement batteries. One battery is now three years old the other two. Both sourced from Halfords and have 4 year warranty. Paid around £70 if my memory is correct. One of them is used only once a week for a short journey ATM but shows no sign of trouble starting so far, even though its freezing. You may lose the idle speed at first with a new battery but after a while the ECU finds where it needs to be. Don't forget to lubricate the terminals, I've always used Vasileen petrolium jelly (old school).
  7. Thanks guys, glad to know it's normal.
  8. Because of lockdown i'm not using my 2010 1.3 Yaris much, maybe once a week. It's parked outside. Every time I use it the inside of the windscreen is damp/wet although the rest of the car is dry, any ideas guys?
  9. I did the cleaning to prevent future possible problems rather than having to fix one. I also disconnected the battery for a period to reset the ECU but this didn't solve the problem. The plugs was the issue with the jerky throttle response, could have left the original ones in as they are supposed to last 100k miles.
  10. I had this problem shortly after servicing the car (100K). I had changed the spark plugs, although the existing plugs weren't showing any signs of wear. The replacement plugs were sourced on Ebay, big mistake, as after only a short time the tips were burning off (fake Iridium plugs). So off to a reliable Motor Factors, for a set of Bosch plugs, which wasn't as expensive as I had imagined, £40, and all is now well. Part of my maintenance last summer was to check and clean the throttle body. I had found a lot of carbon deposit around the butterfly valve and intake throat, with toothbrush an
  11. As an aside, if the dealers don't stock this oil, what are they using to service these cars at the moment. Modern engines are designed to use a small amount of oil and are not 'oil tight' as years ago, so keeping some oil to top up if and when needed makes sense, whether carrying it around in the boot is required, I doubt. Unnecessary weight just reduces fuel economy.
  12. Be careful when you do find your replacement. An AC pump is not something you can bolt off then bolt on. The whole system needs to be flushed and cleaned before reassembly as old pumps often leave debris in the system when they destroy themselves. This debris will quickly destroy your new pump when used again, leaving you where you started. Have you checked that it's not just the electronic clutch on the front of the pump that has failed, I know these can be changed leaving the pump in place, not sure on yours but could save a lot of money if possible.
  13. The stopstart is a good guide to a dying battery. When stopstart stops working as regularly as normal, I know the battery is on its way out, not dead yet but on its way, so if you've got some frosty weather coming, be prepared. I buy Halfords Batteries, reasonable price and hassle free 4yr guarantee, and have no problems in the two cars I generally keep, obviously if you're selling the car soon, a cheaper option may be better.
  14. As it's a chain and not a belt, it requires regular oil changes, as the chain is expensive to change and not for most weekend DIY spanners. If used for mostly short journeys think about reducing the time between changes, don't let the oil get too dirty or 'sludgy'.
  15. On some cars with belt driven AC pumps, you may notice that when the AC pump clutch engages to drive the pump, the idle speed will be increased. This in itself will make very little difference to fuel economy but the effort to drive the pump will be a slight drain on engine power, so to maintain previous performance to when the AC pump was disengaged, you will need to push the gas pedal a bit further, hence less economy. Whether this is significant I leave others to decide but you don't need a degree in engineering to work it out.
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