steve mezzle

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About steve mezzle

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  1. Yes you are right thanks. After lots of searching the internet this afternoon i now think that the actuator is working correctly. I probobly mis-read your write up. I initially thought it gradually opened and closed rather than either fully open or fully closed .What i gather is that the arm is meant to be against the stop all the time until approx 3000 rpm is reached when the arm then moves away from the stop. when the rev counter drops below 3000rpm the the arm hits the stop again. This is happened so hopefully im now sorted. Need to get an emission test done as the replacement actuator appears to be working fine with no vacuum leak. I use two websites called 24/7 spares and to source second hand parts for scrapyards. Took me about 6 hours to do this job. 2 hours to clean old bits of gasket of the mating faces of the manifold to engine block and the same with the throttle housing and clean up the inside of the manifold with manifold cleaner, and then 4 hours to change manifolds, quite easy just access is difficult. £50 for a second hand manifold with actuator and £17 new gasket. Cheers for your help again with this Konrad, much appreciated.
  2. An update to this topic and a question for Konrad and anyone else who may be able to help I took my car into the garage and they said that it is likely that the inlet actuator is faulty (cheers Konrad as i dont think the mechanic would have noticed if i hadnt mentioned you previous post on this subject)and would need to get a new one. As you cant buy it alone a new inlet manifold was needed. (£730 new needless to say i went the refurb route for £50). Ive just finished fitting this and the actuator now opens and closes , however not as Konrads post suggests it should i believe. When i start the car the actuator arm hits the stop (opens),but does not close when i switch off the engine. When i start the car again the arm closes and the opens again quickly and stays on the stop. The only way i can move the arm from the stop when running is to disconnect the vacuum pipe Any suggestion as the issue for this please?
  3. Thanks Konrad , yes i followed your instructions by detaching and reattaching the vacuum pipe but there is no way of making the rod stay in position it kept falling away from the stop. I did notice that there is vacuum in the pipe and it didnt go away when i put my foot on the accelerator. The actuator rod seems is good condition too. Ill do a write up for the mechanic that will include the details from your post regarding this actuator. Thanks again
  4. Hi Konrad Thanks for the reply and the info. Ive had a look at this and the lever of the inlet actuator does not move at all when accelerating and neither can i force it to stay against the stop having followed your instructions, so now im more sure that this confirms the vacuum test i carried out was accurate and maybe its the piston rings that are worn. Just seems strange that the car is running so well with no issues. Have booked it in at the mechanics on Tuesday just to take a quick look but im not expecting a good outcome. Thanks for the advice again. Ill update when i come back from the mechanics
  5. Hi Im struggling with an issue with my car and cant pinpoint what the cause may be. Perhaps someone here can help on my 1.8 toyota avensis 1998 Im having no driveabilty issues with my car which is causing me some confusion, but have conducted a vacuum test after a after a mechanic suggested i had a vacuum leak. some events leading to issue: April 2018 . Rusted exhaust system - replaced whole exhaust and cat June 2018 . Passed emission test Nov 2019 . Engine warning light comes on. Fault code 21 Oxygen sensor. Replaced oxygen sensor and light went out June 2019. Failed emission test with 1 year old cat and six month old 02 sensor. Replaced cat under warranty. Failed emission test again. Taken to engine diagnostic mechanic who found Fault code 21 Oxygen sensor even though no engine warning light was present and said had vacuum leek (not able to stall the car with hand over throttle body opening). O2 sensor replaced under warranty and code cleared. Found nipple broken off of Bimetalic Vacuum Switching valve and its hose disconnected. VSV replaced. Vacuum test conducted and results indicate from a gauge chart "worn rings or diluted oil" ie starts about 20hg and the drops to zero as i press the accelerator and the when releasing quickly goes back up to 20 again. Fault code 21 Oxygen sensor returns spark plugs look good, no smoke from exhaust, no engine issues, oil looks clean and not overfilled as check every 2 weeks changed oil, oil filter, spark plugs, air filter 6 months ago, changed fuel filter 1 week ago, inspected all vacuum hoses and look good, no egr valve on this vehicle Car drives fine to me with no issues but considering the vacuum gauge readings but im concerned as i dont want to damage another cat. Any suggestions with any thing else to try would be appreciated or is it time to scrap the car Thanks
  6. Hi Thanks for the replies. I tried a cheap brand from Amazon a year or so back. I would have been a cheap chinese thing about £20-£30 not a techstream branded one. Although they stated they would work for my car, they didnt. I went to a Diagnostic specialist yesterday and he had diagnostic equipment that worked but it looked very expensive and that brought up live data (oxygen sensor not working properly) and had to pay £50 for this, as ive given up trial and error with these diagnostic tools i thought i would see if anyone has found one that works. I see this question has been asked before on this site and id thought id have another go and see if anyone knew a brand that would work preferably less than £50. Thanks p.s there is another method of inserting a paperclip between two pins of the connector and reading the fault that way. Im using this method until hopefully someone knows of a cheap diagnostic tool that works
  7. Hi Ive tried a couple of OBD2 readers on my 1998 petrol toyota avensis, but have not been able to get them to work.Can anyone recommend a make and model that they know works for this car please. Hopefully nothing too expensive and i dont want one where you need a smart phone as i dont own one. Thanks in advance
  8. Hi Guys Can anyone make any suggestions with this issue please on my 1998 Toyota avensis I had my engine management light come on last week. Fault code 21 (oxygen sensor). Replaced with a second hand sensor. light went off for 1 day and then management light come on again with same fault code. The sensor that was replaced was the pre cat sensor (under the bonnet) The car runs OK, no noticeable power loss , fuel efficiency seems the same. replaced the spark plugs at the same time as the sensor as they were due anyway New cat converter was fitted in July. I tried to follow an online test i found to check the sensor heater and the heater appeared to be open circuit ( high ohm reading), havent tested this new one yet Checked the voltage to the sensor was 12V and has ground Ive done some internet searching and have found the following possible causes , but as i dont know enough about cars perhaps someone can narrow down some of these possible issues based on the info above. Failed fuse, Exhaust leaks, running rich, damaged wiring back to ecu, faulty ecu, fuel injector, fuel pressure regulator, faulty thermostat, faulty mass air flow sensor, air leak exhaust manifold Thanks in advance
  9. Thanks for the reply again. Yeah it turns over first time but doesnt fire up until the second attempt. Thanks for the info on changing the starter motor. Better leave i to a pro as i have a 1.8 GLS
  10. Hi Thanks for the reply. I did replace this ignition switch a couple of years ago. The current problem seems different however. I only seem to have my current problem in the morning and is fine until the next morning no matter how many times i start the car during the day.
  11. Hi I wonder if anyone can help with this issue please. I have a 1998 Toyota avensis that doesnt start first time in the mornng after being left overnight. It will turn over on the second attempt and everytime thereafter throughtout the rest of the day without too much trouble. Does this seem like a problem with the starter motor or a problem with the flywheel. The current starter motor is only 3 years old and also can anyone give me an idea how difficult the job is to replace the starter motor. I wouldnt be able to replace the flywheel myself but thought the starter motor would be easier. Thanks Steve