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About defever

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  1. Thanks very much everyone, especially Mooly. Just for my reference (and possibly others with the same age and model), the A/C filling gas and oil spec seem to be (checked online, need to confirm the actual spec under the hood): Gas: R134a / 370g Oil: PAG46 I think I'll contact Vehicools to see whether if it's worth his time and our money to get the aircon back working. I'll keep updated. Happy motoring!
  2. Ok a quick update! So I just checked the pipes. I found the L valve towards the buklhead and H vale towards the bumper. I blipped the L valve: NOTHING. I squeezed the thin rubber hose section: quite hard but some give. I squeezed the thicher rubber hose proximal to the H valuve: very squishy. I then turned the engine on from cold, pressed A/C (green light on the button comes on), but the compressor clutch pulley doesn't seem to engage (there's a gap between the clutch and the pulley just like when the engine is not on). So that pretty much means there's no refregerant and it's not looking good, am I right? I fear that's not a good news according to Mooly's comment. Next step: I need to find out what kind of gas it requires. Is it worth getting a UV dye refregerant can to fill it up? Or will it need a complete vacuuming of the system and properly fill up the gas? I found a mobile A/C specialist Vehicool (member of IMI and Advanced Automotive Engineer, £55+VAT for diagnostics then £40+VAT/hr labour) based in Basingstoke so I may contact him for his help if it's sensible to leave it to a professional for this. Many thanks for all your advice so far. I feel like I made a step forward to tackle this. Happy motoring!
  3. Thanks very much both. I learned about the basics of aircon system by watching few YouTube clips from the usual "car maintenance" Channels: ChrisFix: How to Find AC Leaks in Your Car (UV Dye) Chris Fix: How to Properly Recharge Your AC System Ratchets And Wrenches: How a Car AC System Works - For Beginners AC Avalanche : Auto Air Conditioning 101 Made Easy I don't have a vacuum pump or a manifold gauge set so it'll likely to be a professional job. But I guess I can check the basics such as the compressor kicking in and injecting UV dye for leak check. Yaris has already been to a local and trusting garage for this earlier this year, but it just came back with "we couldn't find anything wrong" and not much else so I got the message that they weren't really interested in spending their time diagnosing it. I will search for a local aircon specialist. It looks like there's no Toyota specialist within our locality. Many thanks once again!
  4. Good evening fellow forum users, In this recent heatwave, we would like to get the A/C sorted for good! I’m fairly competent with car mechanics on VW/Audi vehicles, but less knowledgeable with Toyota and A/C function in general. My wife owns Yaris (Mk2 French 2006 SCP90R-CHMGKW 1.33L 2SZ-FE? Engine) which has been in the family since new. The A/C has never worked in her ownership (approx. 8years) so it’s probably a long shot but I’d like to troubleshoot and see what could be at fault. The centre console loos like this: The A/C button is at the centre of the middle circular control (vent control). Then pressed, the green light goes on, but there’s no change in the vent air temperature. Just the ambient air coming out. So, my questions are: Where do I start with troubleshooting lack of A/C function? Do any fellow forum users know a Toyota specialist in Hampshire area (specifically between Winchester and Southampton), please? Many thanks as always! Happy motoring!
  5. defever

    Retrofit AUX input on Mk2 Yaris

    Hello rytoff, Hmm how odd? Just checking that yours is not the model with CD changer. Ours worked perfectly fine without any set up like having to keep CD in the player. Keep us posted on how you get on with this.
  6. defever

    Alternator belt: Mk2 SCP90 2SZ-FE

    Fantastic, thanks very much cookie-monster! As you exactly described, the squeal only occurs in cold & wet morning, when started up first thing, especially when the power steering kicks in. And only for few seconds. Then no problem afterwards until the engine is restarted after being sat for all day (after-work), but only for a few second. Also, you're right about the pulley at the top front of the block. The diagram above shows power steering pulley, but on the engine it's just a pulley anchored on to the block; I don't see anything connected to the pulley. But general layout is very similar to the diagram. When the snow goes away, I might adjust the alternator and add some tension to the belt. My wife says she can live witht the occasional squeal. The squeal is not constant so I may leave it at that until the belt shows some significant sign of wear or if the squeal becomes constant. Thanks again for your post, it gives me some confidence that it's not an urgent matter. Happy motoring!
  7. defever

    Alternator belt: Mk2 SCP90 2SZ-FE

    Bingo. I found a Russian forum with the exact engine and how to replace the belt: Toyota Ractis ラクティス › Бортжурнал › Замена приводного ремня 2SZ-FE Google Translation of the link: Toyota Ractis ラ ク テ ィ ス > Bortjournal > Replacement of drive belt 2SZ-FE This is how the alternator is mounted and it seems that the long bolt adjusts the tension of the belt at the alternator: I checked the belt (though quickly, she wanted to get in complaining that it's too cold outside...) by 90degree test and checking for cracks. Only goes upto 80 degrees and I couldn't see any cracking. Looked fairly new, so it must have been done at some point. I will check again tomorrow (at my leisure) and see if I can check thoroughly. Google is very powerful, it knows anything! Safe motoring in the Baltic weather tomorrow!
  8. defever

    Alternator belt: Mk2 SCP90 2SZ-FE

    Thanks very much Alan, The layout on the link seems to be the one (I will double check when she's home this evening): Thanks very much for the YouTube link. I watched one of his clips on the "VVT-i" engine with the alternator at the front (but fixed, not on the slider guide). He's quite good and thumbs up for explaining in English. I'll look for some sort of lever to release tension on the belt this evening and will report back. Many thanks!
  9. Good morning fellow Yaris owners, My wife proudly owns Yaris (Mk2 French 2006 SCP90R-CHMGKW 1.33L 2SZ-FE? Engine), just hit over 115,000miles and passed MOT (only fail: hazy headlamp!) earlier this month. It's been very much maintenance free (had clutch done last year and nothing else major!). It’s been very reliable and trusty companion. With the recent cold weather, the alter belt seems to squeal for few seconds when driving off from cold engine. It’s nothing more than the usual alternator belt symptom but being 115,000miles and my wife not recalling the belt not being replaced for the last 8 years of her ownership, I'm wondering if the belt should be changed, or at least tension the belt. I'm quite competent with basic mechanical stuff (I'm more familiar with VW / Audi cars) so I went out to search on YouTube and UK / US forums on how to tension / replace alternator belt for 1.3L engine. All I can find is "VVT-i" engine with he alternator at the front of the engine (which looks super easy to adjust the tension / remove the belt!). I thought VVT-i signifies Toyoya’s technology on engines, not a specific engine code. Her Yaris has the alternator at the back of the block (I believe it's 2SZ-FE engine code?) and also has A/C pulley at the front. I cannot find any "how to" video / instructions or even an image online for this engine. I can’t seem to find where the tensioner is and it seems that I would need to get underneath to remove the belt, due to the engine mount obstructing at the top? I would like to ask if there is some instructions online for 1.3L engine or whether a generous soul can point me briefly where I should be looking for the tensioner and how the belt is usually replaced on this engine. Many thanks in advance, and safe driving in this Baltic weather!
  10. defever

    Retrofit AUX input on Mk2 Yaris

    Got connects2 interface, installed it fairly easily and it works perfectly. Only niggle is that the Aux cable length from the interface box is quite short (probably 50cm) so there's not much reach from the back of the stereo out to the front to connect to a device. I just routed the cable under the black plastic trim by the passenger seatbelt warning signal on the left side of the stereo. When I have the time, I might make a little whole somewhere more convienient or guy a longer Aux cable (two round red & black plug end). Thanks frosty for your suggestion. Happy motoring!
  11. defever

    Retrofit AUX input on Mk2 Yaris

    Thanks frostyballs. I've heard of connects2 so I ordered one. I'll see how it goes. Happy motoring!
  12. defever

    Retrofit AUX input on Mk2 Yaris

    Hello fellow Yaris owners, I would like to ask if there is a way to retrospectively add AUX input on factory stereo on Yaris Mk2, please. We have Mk2 Yaris ('06, 1.3L SCP90) with factory stereo. Also, the steering wheel has multifunction buttons for radio channel and volume. The head unit has CD function but without CD changer. It looks like this (image from Google): Obviously there’s no 3.5mm phone jack or AUX function at the moment, but I wonder if there is an interface / adapter / emulator that can be connected on the factory plug at the back of the unit to feed AUX input. We used to have those FM transmitter on another car but it didn’t quite cut it for us. If there is a possibility, I’d like something that is connected directly to the unit. I’m sure a fellow Yaris owner would have thought about doing this or in fact has a solution / product recommendation so I wanted to ask on here. What do you think? Happy motoring!
  13. defever

    Double lock troubleshoot

    Has anyone experienced this or help me give right direction to troubleshoot? Many thanks and happy motoring!
  14. defever

    Double lock troubleshoot

    Hello dear Yaris 2nd generation owners, I am very new to the forum and I would like to ask for your help on my wife's little Yaris (detail on my signature), please. She's having some issues with double lock mechanism; the O/S rear passenger door sometimes becomes stuck on "lock" when double locked with remote key. The lock button by the door lever on the inside seems to be stuck on lock even all the other doors are unlocked via remote central locking. I managed to release it with forcing the button to stay "unlocked" while I pressed lock/unlock button on the remote key repeatedly until it eventually released the lock. I tried to troubleshoot what is actually happening, and since I unlocked the door in question, every time I double lock the doors there is a horrible "GRRRRR" noise from the inside of the same door, as if something is grinding or a gear not engaging. This doesn't happen on single lock, only happens on double lock. It's just the O/S rear door that's faulty, other door locks are perfectly operational (for now). I'm not familiar with Toyota (I'm familiar with VW/Audi Group), but I'm assuming there is a fault in some sort of door lock actuator or pump/motor. It would be very helpful if I can ask for advice or suggestion on how I can go about troubleshooting/diagnosing what might be a suspect, whether it is DIYable fault, and where people usually source Toyota parts. Many thanks in advance and happy motoring!
  15. oh, thank you very much for the photographs! Yes, I also considered Octavia and Passat, as I am familiar with VAG car now. VW, Skoda, Seat and Audi are all under VW group so I can competently work with VW or Skoda (some parts are interchangeable amongst different makers). They both are good estate with good MPG. But I want to try a Japanese car next, and considering other Japanese cars (Honda, Mazda, Nissan, Mitsubish, Suzuki...), Avensis gets my top mark. Thank you everyone for all the information so far. I learned plenty in the last 24hrs and have some homework to do now. I will update every now and then to keep everyone in the loop. I do like a bit of older cars, they are simpler to work on and certainly have some character!