Conor-Mr2

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About Conor-Mr2

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  1. Hehe ah Im gutted as it is a bargain. I would have snapped it up at that price but saw it too late. Indeed Im not that bitter!!! And I say fair play to you and it was sold too cheap. fortunately Im an optimist so there'll be more at that price. Its just keeping an eye out.
  2. And for those of you that want to know how much this actually sold for just a few days ago you can visit http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=50067 aka £7000
  3. Conor-Mr2

    Epc Question

    Thanks for the help. I went back and spent some more time with it and managed to find what I was looking for. It was called a vacuum transmitting valve that i was looking for. For what its worth theres on online parts epc at http://www.elcats.ru/toyota/. granted its in russian at the start but you could still navigate through it as the part descriptions are in english.
  4. Conor-Mr2

    Epc Question

    Hi all, Ive got the two toyota epc disks for the japanese cars. Now from what I gather the sw20 mr2 is only on the first disk. Last night out of pure curiosity I was trying to look for the part number for the rear sway bar. (Its not broken on my car, just as an example!!) and i couldnt find it. Do the epc contain all the part numbers for the mr2?? As another example I am looking for the part number for what I belive is called the Vacuum Switching Valve. This is a small cylinder object that is situated in a "clamp" in front of the BOV. IT is a one-way diaphragm valve as far as i can see and has a small hose coming in one side and out the other. Ive been trying to find the part number for this on the epc but to no avail. Any thoughts. Cheers
  5. Enjoy that good feeling that everything is ok!!!
  6. More than likely it is the oxygen sensor. And you certainly cannot live without it. Id question why they have to do one or the other.
  7. This happened to me today Jimlad so you are not alone!! Make sure you have fluid in the reservoir!!! Basically for me today it was the power steering relay. If you lift up the front bonnet then put the key in ignition and turn it to one before actually starting the engine. You should hear a click noise. That is the relay switch. Now it can happen that the contacts get corroded or dirty. What people are saying here is quickly turn the key from off to the "one before starting engine". Do this really quickly for about 20-30 times. This should help clean the contacts in the relay and hence allow the power through to the power steering pump. Failing that as said its diagnosis time. This is the second time my p/s light came on.Last time I had to get a new power steering pump!! A bitr more expensive so Ive had lotsa expereince with the power steering area in my car!! :(
  8. VHT paint. you can get it in any decent motor store. I got the spray cans in motorway.
  9. Very easy job. Use Very High Temperature paint. Remove wheel. Give the brake caliper a good clean. Now put masking tape on the areas that you do not want to get paint on, the disc etc. Spray liberally on the caliper. It took about 7 or 8 layers per caliper before i got a good deep finish to the them. Looks good though. Sorry no pics!!
  10. Conor-Mr2

    De-cat Question...

    It would be cheaper than getting a new one of course but the question is what are you actually looking to do? The catalytic convertor is a restriction to the exhaust system. Essentially it looks like a polystyrene honeycomb structure. I removed my cat. It took me a good days job to do. The hardest part were the bolts/nuts that were on the turbo outlet. There are 7 of them and by ***** they were tough to get off. Also tough was taking the actual cat out once all the bolts were off (including the 3 attached to the b-pipe on the exhaust). Its fidgetty and requires lots of pulling and manuevering. The cat was being replaced by an Aussie downpipe. This made a very good/marked improvement to performance. If you want to decat there is a cheap option..... Remove the 3 bolts that attache the b-pipe to the cat. This is under the car by the way. Now you should pull the b-pipe out of the way so you can look up into the cat. You will see the honeycomb structure. Get a screwdriver or the like and start poking the structure so it starts breaking. This takes a while but you should be able to break the honeycomb apart and have bits fall out. Thus you are left with no actual cat. Reconnect the b-pipe. Voila you have gutted your cat. HTH
  11. Hi, I reckon its time for me to move away from the stock and get a decent set of alloys. Im looking at either 16" or 17". Do people think 17" are too big and could compromise handling? Also I have a black mr2 and would like to get a set of gold alloys. Any recommendations? Are kn alloys any good?? Cheers Conor
  12. Conor-Mr2

    Ct20b

    Money,money!! Anyway I had previously forked out for the Aussie downpipe. I had great fun removing the catalytic convertor, believe me!!
  13. Yup two places for them. www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/ come.to/BGB HTH
  14. Conor-Mr2

    Ct20b

    how much do you reckon a ct20b would go for? I have the ct26 and im wondering if its better to spend my limited money on upgrading it or simply buying the ct20b turbo and boltong it on instead. Sorry for hijacking post!!! :(
  15. All jap spec cars have a speed limiter limiting to 180kph. The trick is to make the car think it is going slower than it actually is. You can purchase a speed delimiter which will delimit the car. Alternatively you can get a kph to mph speedo conversion. This usually does the trick of delimiting the car aswell. Give fensport.co.uk a buzz. They can help you out.