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Notoyboy last won the day on April 9

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  1. It will be quicker for the garage to replace the suspension arm, rather than just replace the bush, so it's a matter of balancing the extra cost of the arm against the extra labour needed to replace the bush. Dependent upon type of bush, it can be quite a struggle getting the new bush inserted, speaking as a DIYer. A long time back, copper brake pipe was available, but the modern pipe is Cunifer, which is an alloy of (mainly) copper & nickel. A lot easier to bend than steel pipe, although some OE steel pipes might be pre-shaped. I've only ever used Cunifer, which the garage will buy as a coil, and cut to length, and shape it as required. Cunifer will outlive the car!
  2. I hope the circuit board does the trick. Thinking back to Jason's original post, grandma @ 92 must be pretty fit and agile to have been pulled out through the window. Hope not too many bruises!
  3. Hi Sam, That's very interesting that you've got a noticeable improvement in the way the car's driving, with the new coil packs. Until now, I'd have thought the packs either work or they don't. Learn something every day. Might explain your poor fuel consumption (as long as you don't now drive it as if on steroids all the time 😁)
  4. Hal might be right, in that the bulb was poorly made. I find I have to replace the number plate bulbs on both my ageing vehicles something like every approx 3 years, with the 5w wedge or festoon bulbs going black and then ultimately failing. The number plate bulbs are mounted on the tailgate(s), which obviously suffer a good thump every time the tailgate gets closed, and I've always wondered if this vibration is part of the problem, as well as slight corrosion of the contacts as the vehicles get older. I wonder if the number plate bulbs bulbs aren't quite as secure in their holders as the bayonet type side/brake reverse/indicator bulbs, whether in the tailgate or on the rear wings. I suspect a poor electrical contact will also result in bulbs becoming black and failing prematurely.
  5. That's exactly what I would do. It will identify any glowplug out of kilter with the rest. If you're lucky and get infinite resistance (ie. a break in the heater coil), then you may have found the root cause of the problem. My last diesel the one busbar feeding all 4 glowplugs, but I modified it so each glowplug had it's own cable from the relay, making it easier to test the resistance of each glowplug in-situ. Not foolproof, but saved the hassle of removing the glowplugs, which can be fiddly, depending where they are on the engine, maybe buried under fuel pipes, wiring & ancillaries etc. PS. Worthwhile looking at the busbar itself, if you have one. Mine was a very heavy cable (supply was 80-90 amps peak), and I started to suspect the integrity of the lead off it to each glowplug, which was just crimped on to the busbar cable. Happy hunting in the colder weather!
  6. I assume your wife's laughter was because with the threat of being videod, the engine decided to be good and start up! In my ownership of 2 diesel engined cars in the past, I'd always first check the glowplugs whenever the engine became more difficult to start. On 1 occasion as winter approached, a long grind on the starter would be followed by very lumpy running for a few seconds, with much smoke (unburnt fuel). Turned out to be not just 1, but 2 failed glowplugs, which wasn't obvious until summer turned to winter and temperatures plummeted. Diesels need air, fuel and heat to start. If the glowplugs aren't doing their job, your giving the engine several spins before it starts will be helping warm up the compustion chambers during the compression strokes, which may be why it takes a while to start. Other consideration would be the fuel and injection system, and of course, one assumes the compression is good. I've no knowledge of your engine, so only able to make generalised comments. Start with the easy/cheap checks first.
  7. If the battery is the correct one for your vehicle, then I would expect your 2 year old Bosch should still be good, always assuming it's getting a good charge from regular use. The 12.3 volts you quote doesn't seem too bad - my car starts no problem with that sort of voltage. The fact that it spins the engine over suggests it's not the problem, although if it's the original starter & high mileage, there could worn brushes by now, so it won't be performing as good as new. However, it is spinning the engine, so I'd look elsewhere, not forgetting that the weather's now getting colder, which is more likely to show up any problems. My first action would be to feel the battery terminals immediately after start, easy enough to do - any warmth would suggest internal corrosion causing lose of power to starter. Then check the battery earth connection(s) to the body are nice and clean/bright metal. As Paul suggests, your problem probably lies elsewhere.
  8. In considering powder coating, you'll need to factor in the cost of having the tyres removed, and then refitted afterwards.
  9. A quick way to test if the glowplugs are receiving voltage on start up is to simply connect a voltmeter between the supply rail (or 1 of the glowplugs) and earth, whilst someone turns the key. This would confirm the relay/control is working, though not how worn the relay's contacts might be. Based on my experience with a Citroen diesel, I'd expect maybe 10-12 volts initially, dropping away to 9-10 volts (dependent on state of battery). The voltage drops as the glowplugs' resistance increases as they heat up.
  10. My Corolla (no aircon) started to suffer inability to clear the windscreen, and a new cabin filter sorted the problem nicely. It was dirty after 15,000 miles (could be longer if they missed it at previous service)
  11. I would second that 😊 Check the glowplugs are working before you dig any further - they don't last forever
  12. I can't comment specifically as you have an Aygo which I'm not familiar with at all, plus it's an automatic, and I can't explain what the brake pedal's doing, but for a manual gearbox car, I'd ask how old the battery is, and suggest the starter motor might be suspect (I've had one which sometimes spun the engine, sometimes just clicked - solved by replacing it). Might be worth checking the battery terminals, and earth lead connection(s) to body. A poor connection can create voltage drop, so the starter doesn't get the power it needs to spin the engine.
  13. Yes, a great sense of satisfaction, once the job is finished. Although a very tight fit, I'd be tempted to apply a smeer of an anti-seizure grease such as Copaslip, although I'd hope not to have to repeat the job! Well done. Great photos.
  14. Try clicking on the "attached data" - works for me