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Notoyboy last won the day on April 9

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About Notoyboy

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  1. Unless you want to collect the new battery yourself for convenience, I've seen good reports of Tayna in Abergele, with competitive prices, even with P & P. That's a crazy Eurocarparts price, unless you can get a very good discount. I've noticed in recent times that ECP battery prices are way OTT.
  2. The bulb Gerg shows looks the same 1.2w capless that I fitted to my Corolla's heater controls (non-aircon) a few years back. Definitely helpful at night having at least 1 of the heater control bulbs working. IIRC it was a slight struggle getting at them to do the replacement (I used Haynes), and I think somewhere at the back of the mechanism, a small piece of the white plastic broke off (to no detriment it seems). No idea about the bulbs in the switches. On my previous much older Citroen, the bulbs in the switches were not replaceable. Not sure what the situation is with the Corolla, and some of us might consider that to be a new challenge 😀. Simpler to replace like with like, rather than try LEDs, unless a direct swap. Would LEDs cost more?
  3. Unable to say what battery my Corolla originally fitted with, but just before I acquired the car in 2013, the present Varta 3 year battery was fitted, & and still doing well. It is a Type 027, 60 Ah & 540 CCA. I suspect it is the same physical size as the OP's, but of much higher capacity.
  4. Don't think I'd bother to switch to a different fluid, particularly if it's not compatible with what you've presently got. Could be a lot of effort. I don't stick to the 24 months fluid change interval, although one benefit of regular attention is that the bleed nipples are less likely to seize up with regular bleeding.
  5. Having a Corolla of similar vintage, I'm interested in how you fix the problem, in case I should encounter something similar. In checking the wiring, I assume a check's also been made of plugs/connectors (if any), both visually and by disconnecting & remaking the connections to remove any corrosion of the contacts. The only thing that doesn't work on my Corolla is the average fuel consumption, which always displays 99.99 mpg (I wish!). Not sure if this has occured as part of the ageing process, or whether a wire could have been disturbed in one of the 3 recalls for the airbags.
  6. Another possibility is a very worn tyre, or a c*ap make of tyre with terrible grip. Are both the front tyres same make with similar degree of wear?
  7. @ Konrad: Interesting that your shields are of aluminium. The shield i had to repair on my 2003 Corolla was galvanised (electroplated?) steel, and I assumed all shields were of steel. Maybe aluminium used in the search to save a few ozs and achieve a minimal emissions improvement. Easier bending aluminium to the required shape.
  8. Nice work, well done tracking down the problem, and an easy solution. Always very satisfying ☺️
  9. I think what this really means is that it may be necessary to apply a drop of sealant where the new rocker cover gasket crosses the bead of existing sealant between the timing chain cover and the engine block.
  10. Theft of Cats (from what I read in the press) was a problem a few years ago. I thought the problem had died down more recently, but obviously not. Perhaps the value of the "rare metals" has increased? Does this mean we should be avoiding cars with Cats, or do most modern cars have them? Note to self: keep with my Corolla, even if they again vandalise my wing mirror - ****ards!
  11. I was thinking that battery would be a bit down if you're not using car very much, but if the engine's spinning/turning over as fast usual, then doesn't sound like the battery's the culprit.
  12. As Paul says, we need more information. Based on the little you've given us, it could be either the battery, bad battery connections, or starter motor playing up before finally giving up. I'll throw in another less likely possibility of a suspect ignition switch, but more info please 🙂
  13. @Saints: For a relatively new good make battery, that's quite a mess around the top of the battery, as if it's leaking. Never seen anything like that before, although the white deposits are common. I wouldn't expect a newish battery to be gassing and causing this. First thought was overcharging, as someone else has suggested, which would cause more gassing, but the voltages you quote don't confirm this. Maybe check the voltage is stable when the engine's revved? A good suggestion's been made about fixing a breather tube to the vent, although this doesn't sort the cause of the problem. I expect the battery's got a vent each end, though one may have a plastic plug insert, which can be switched around dependent on the battery orientation in the vehicle. Despite being a Bosch, it's very unlikely, but perhaps it's been overfilled, so the electrolyte level is too high? Bit of a long shot really. This would leave less space above the electrolyte for the gasses to "recondense", and so more gases are veningt out to atmosphere than normal. Difficult to check this, as batteries are sealed nowdays. In the past, with some batteries, you used to be able to see the electrolyte level through the plastic sides, and there'd be Max & Min levels marked, but this probably goes back to when batteries were top-up-able. Another long shot: I assume the battery earth cable is good, with good connection at the battery terminal, and to the body?
  14. It's decades since I had any alignment check. I'd only consider it necessary if I'd hit a bad pothole, or there was some odd tyre wear pattern
  15. As a past diesel owner, I'd say in general terms that failure of 1 out of 4 glowplugs might not be noticeable, especially in the summer months, though there might be a touch more smoke on start-up, and perhaps a little more uneven tick-over for a few seconds. A second glowplug failure would probably be noticeable, but might not give real starting problems until winter time. Driving an older generation diesel with indirect injection, I found my 2 diesel cars a pig to start in cold weather with 2 failed glowplugs, but I suspect modern diesels, which tend to be direct injection, are less reliant on glowplugs for starting. As Byzii says above, you can open a can of worms trying to remove a glowplug, and my suggestion would be to leave well alone. Just keep an eye on things, so it doesn't come as a shock and let you down at an inconvenient moment. By keeping an eye on things, I mean such as noting if it's more awkward to start, smoke etc. You can't beat passing a current through a glowplug on the workbench, and seeing the tip glow red, but I found second best was to measure the current (12-20 amps) drawn by each glowplug in-situ, but how accessible this is on your car I don't know, and I modified the wiring to the glowplugs of my second diesel car to make this test easier for me to carry out. I'm sure I read a while ago, probably on another Forum, of a small/medium diesel hatchback running with either 1 or no glowplugs working. It might not have been in this country of course! So I think I'm saying "Panic Not!" ☺️ PS. In answer to your PS, I'm not sure you'd get any waring of glowplug failure on the dashboard