Notoyboy

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Notoyboy last won the day on April 9

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About Notoyboy

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Martin
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla
  • Toyota Year
    2003
  • Location
    Merseyside

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  1. A good bodge. Surprising what an old tin can can do. I trust it was a Heinz Baked Beans tin 😁
  2. I think it's worth trying what "The Fox", Brian, says above, about seeing what happens if you let the coolant find it's own level, rather than topping up to Max. My Corolla sits well below it's Max level on the reservoir (normally cold when I check it), but I never have to top it up. Good luck.
  3. Thanks for sharing your thoughts with us. I've not come across an oil fliter drain plug like you describe. It's certainly a possibility that it was the culprit, and I guess only time will tell. Fingers crossed that the engine now runs just like it always did ☺️
  4. The older the car, the more likely something is to go wrong, so I think the less technlology and attendent sensors it has, the less there is to go wrong! The simpler the better - keep the manual/analogue system 😊
  5. I certainly enjoy the benefit of remote central locking that we've all become used to in recent times, but I gladly put up with having to find the keyhole in the steering column (becomes natural after a while), rather than have to tolerate modern day technology which means cars are no longer secure without Faraday bags etc. IMHO, we are being fobbed off by car manufacturers with car security which isn't fit for purpose, whatever the value of the car.
  6. Rather like Mike, I'd concentrate on the oil side/aspect. IMHO, I don't think your towing a trailer had anything to do with the problem. There was no increase in engine temperature, which would have suggested the engine was working harder, and even if it were, the fan(s) would come on, or you'd ultimately stop to allow things to cool down. Questions: Regular oil changes? I'm wondering if somehow an oil line could have become blocked, or the pressure relief valve was misbehaving somehow. When did you last check the oil level prior to the fateful trip - any possibility of fuel leaking past rings causing increased oil level and higher pressures in the crankcase (although I can't see how this could cause the oil filter to burst). What was the oil level after you'd switched the engine off, as you lifted the hood, or had most of it been lost? Good luck with tracking down the problem
  7. I'd be wondering where the bottom end's gone, and is it OK where it is. A year or so ago, someone with a similar problem on this forum was asking how the bottom of the dipstick could be removed. I don't recall we ever heard the final outcome. In answer to your question, you could try scrapyards but could be wild goose-chase. I'd suggest first contacting a Toyota dealer to see if any available. Worth contacting Lindop Toyota (Parts-King) who you'll find elsewhere on the Forum.
  8. i can't recall whether it was a high pitch squeal, but on a previous car, I had a noise which turned out to be the dust shield coming into contact with the brake disc on turning one way whilst driving. Judicious application of a lever eased the dust shield away from the disc. I guess the problem happened as the wheel bearings devoped more play (nothing obvious) than when they were new. It was a cheap & simple remedy. Wish all car isssues were like that!
  9. IIRC there are rules about what can be repaired with such as resin, also dependent upon whereabouts the damage is located, and it's severity. There's certainly an area of windscreen in front of the driver where there are restrictions on repair, but the OPs description suggests this won't apply in his case. There was a small filled repair on a 3 year old car I bought, still there causing no trouble when car was scrapped 17-18 years later.
  10. Also check/clean the earth leads. Don't run the engine with the battery disconnected - you risk damaging the electrics.
  11. I assume the 2 batteries are connected together, in parallel. Presuming both batteries are down, then charging just the one may or may not get the vehicle started, the problem being that as soon as you put the charged battery back in circuit, it loses it's charge as it tries to charge up the other battery (the low charge battery drags down the charge in the good battery) There may be reasons why the vehicle has to have 2 batteries Is it possible to replace with just fitting 1 new one, buying the highest capacity battery you can physically squeeze in? May be that the sort of use the vehicle was designed for warrants 2 batteries, or maybe it's just not possible to fit 1 large battery anywhere in the engine compartment.
  12. The symptoms you describe do tie in with a flat battery. Batteries don't last for ever, and how they perform is partly dependent on how often and how much charge they receive. If you don't use vehicle very much, then the batteries may never get fully charged. 2 batteries?
  13. Surprised this should happen after only a month. Did you leave the car parked with the handbrake on? I would guess that the handbrake mechanism on 1 or more wheels has rusted up/seized, and I'd jack up each wheel in turn, starting with whichever wheels the handbrake operates on. Inspect each in turn. Can be a bit fiddly stripping to access the handbrake shoes, but I don't know anything about your model. Handbrake mechanisms don't wear much, and therefore don't get regular maintenance. Does the vehicle have handbrake cables, and could it be they've rusted up? I had this on a Citroen many years ago. It's possible the pads have seized in their calipers on the disc brakes, but would be very surprised, unless car's not had much maintenance
  14. This tapping sound you get. Is it a metalic sound? My first thoughts were a fault with a tyre, perhaps a tread delaminating which wouldn't be obvious on visual inspection, despite you saying the tyres have been checked. If the problem has been going on for a long time, then presumably the noise/vibration was there even with the previous set of tyres? Have you checked the wheels for damage? Are they the genuine wheels for the car?
  15. My commiserations to Robin, OP. We've been conned/hoodwinked by car manufacturers and the SMMT, into buying modern cars with security which to my mind is "Not fit for Purpose". Decades ago , some vehicles needed a Krooklock to secure the steering wheel, & it seems car manufacturers haven't really improved security since then. I've read that a "Faraday" Box is recommended to store one's key/fob. Why should anyone have to buy or carry such a device to make their car secure? Absolutely ridiculous! Good luck with your insurance, Robin.