Notoyboy

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Notoyboy last won the day on April 9 2019

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About Notoyboy

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Martin
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla
  • Toyota Year
    2003
  • Location
    Merseyside

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  1. Notoyboy

    Winter tyres

    @ Agent Orange - thanks for the reply. I suspect we don't live that far apart ☺️
  2. Notoyboy

    Winter tyres

    Although I'm presently using winter tyres on my Corolla, I don't consider I really need them nowadays, especially with living on the west coast with the benefits of the Gulf Stream, so I'm considering whether to go for All-Season tyres when I next need the summer tyres replacing. Does anyone know whether the rubber used in All-Season tyres is the same as for summer tyres, or a half-way compromise towards winter grade?
  3. In the past, it was not recommended that the alternator be disconnected whilst the engine was running, and I've always managed to avoid doing it. Unless alternator design has changed, or we were all being misled, I'd go for doing something with the battery, along the lines of Nick (Yossarian)'s suggestions
  4. As you say, alternatively it's a special tool. Or, a length of hexagonal bar, but you'll only know it's 6mm once it's slotted in. Presume it'll be same size as the other alignment adjuster
  5. Would a 1/4" drive socket set provide enough reach, using the 2 extension bars they normally come with (in UK), plus a 6mm allen key to suit 1/4" drive which may or may not be in the same set? I've experienced awkward access to adjust headlights in the past, and it can be difficult getting to the adjusters.
  6. The LEDs are quite likely from China 😁 Hi Sam, is this bulb the replacement for the one you were telling us about at the beginning of your thread. If so, did you check that it's nice and secure in it's holder. A bulb that's not nice and secure with good electrical contacts, moves around, possibly causing fluctuations in the current to the filament, so it won't last so long. So, is it just the one bulb position that keeps blowing, or the whole lot!
  7. Hi Oldcodger, Sorry I can't offer any good advice re the whine. I'd do what you're doing, in flagging up the issue now, and weighing up what to investigate, whilst continuing to use the car and see how things develop. With the 120k mileage, and regular oil changes @ 40k, is it about to have another oil change, or just had it? Any reason the gearbox oil level not what it should be (thinking to the fact that it might have needed refilling when clutch done). When you say the very early Corolla gearboxes could be prone to failure, would this be the previous model to yours?
  8. Well, the battery volts aren't bad Konrad, but sounds from what you say as if the battery's not got the same ooooomph ((CCA or amp. hr. capacity) that it had when new. Batteries last a lot longer than they did in previous decades, but slowly loose their capacity, and also become less efficient when being recharged. I try to eke as much life out of batteries as possible, but there comes a time ........ ☹️
  9. In addition to Frostyballs comments, I would add that it's worth checking the wiring connectors, and also the earthing. Plus remove and refit any fuses a couple of times, in case they should be suffering. Corrosion can creep insiduously and slowly, so we don't notice lights deteriorating over the years. Not easy working out where earths are located on modern vehicles, but a way round this is to just run a new lead from a convenient point, to the lighting concerned, main attention being the headlights.
  10. The colder weather we're experiencing will find out any not so good battery, as the battery relies on internal chemical action which less effective the colder it gets, plus the engine oil has more drag as it gets colder, all transpiring against us. Battery being sluggish recently suggests it's not getting adequate charge, or maybe on it's last legs. If it were the original battery, then it's done very well. The EML coming on may be because the battery volts are low. Technology on cars nowadays is reliant on a well charged/good battery - a low battery can give weird warning lights/messages. I have a friend with an Aygo, maybe a year older than yours, and the recent low battery threw up a number of warning lights.
  11. I'd be suspecting the fuel level sender unit in the tank, perhaps it's sticking for some reason. I'd check out the wiring & connectors to it first. Can't advise as to which fuse to check, - presumably all other electrice are OK?
  12. It will be quicker for the garage to replace the suspension arm, rather than just replace the bush, so it's a matter of balancing the extra cost of the arm against the extra labour needed to replace the bush. Dependent upon type of bush, it can be quite a struggle getting the new bush inserted, speaking as a DIYer. A long time back, copper brake pipe was available, but the modern pipe is Cunifer, which is an alloy of (mainly) copper & nickel. A lot easier to bend than steel pipe, although some OE steel pipes might be pre-shaped. I've only ever used Cunifer, which the garage will buy as a coil, and cut to length, and shape it as required. Cunifer will outlive the car!
  13. I hope the circuit board does the trick. Thinking back to Jason's original post, grandma @ 92 must be pretty fit and agile to have been pulled out through the window. Hope not too many bruises!
  14. Hi Sam, That's very interesting that you've got a noticeable improvement in the way the car's driving, with the new coil packs. Until now, I'd have thought the packs either work or they don't. Learn something every day. Might explain your poor fuel consumption (as long as you don't now drive it as if on steroids all the time 😁)
  15. Hal might be right, in that the bulb was poorly made. I find I have to replace the number plate bulbs on both my ageing vehicles something like every approx 3 years, with the 5w wedge or festoon bulbs going black and then ultimately failing. The number plate bulbs are mounted on the tailgate(s), which obviously suffer a good thump every time the tailgate gets closed, and I've always wondered if this vibration is part of the problem, as well as slight corrosion of the contacts as the vehicles get older. I wonder if the number plate bulbs bulbs aren't quite as secure in their holders as the bayonet type side/brake reverse/indicator bulbs, whether in the tailgate or on the rear wings. I suspect a poor electrical contact will also result in bulbs becoming black and failing prematurely.