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Notoyboy last won the day on April 9

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About Notoyboy

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  1. Try clicking on the "attached data" - works for me
  2. So has the front been adjusted, and resolved the problem?
  3. Have you checked that the exhaust is secure and not fouling the bodywork somewhere?
  4. Although I understand why you wrapped the wood in kitchen foil, not sure it's a good idea except as a "get you home a short distance" temporary fix. The foil, being metal, will conduct the heat to the wood, albeit more slowly than no foil at all, so there's still a fire risk. If it's difficult/expensive going to Toyota, then I expect you'd find a suitable hanger from an exhaust factor/supplier
  5. Hopefully someone will be along who can reply more specifically, but with my very limited knowledge of the Verso, does it have analogue or digital heater controls? If it's digital, then maybe it doesn't have a flow control valve at all, relying on the flaps to control the heat output. Flaps have motors/gears, and maybe your problem lies there? Not sure whether flow control valves are a relic of the past. I remember them, as that's what cars were fitted with when I learnt to drive!
  6. I would have thought dry lube would do? Don't do what I did on an ignition key a few years ago, which was to try WD40. Made it worse, maybe it washed out any remaining lubricant. IIRC, I then tried a touch of light oil (3 in 1?), and it worked. I think the secret if using light oil is to only apply it sparingly.
  7. Are you sure the yellow "tint" is on the inside? A lot of modern cars have plastic covers with a surface treatment which degrades over the years to make the headlamps look yellow. This degraded film can be removed with a bit of DIY/elbow grease, and you should be able to find a few threads about this on the Forum.
  8. No-one will be able to comment, unless you give more information, such as what mpg you are getting, and the type of driving. Presumably you have done the obvious like checking for fuel leaks, including telltale signs under the car.
  9. Alternatively, look for another engine same as you already have. As OC says, there's a risk with the condition of any replacement engine, but it would be a much simpler swap, if you can find one, that is. Even such as the driveshafts could be different. A change to the later engine is not something I'd contemplate. Out of curiosity, how many miles has the present engine done?
  10. Notoyboy


    And not the first time. Perhaps the New Corolla could have it's own section. Please Admin? What do you think?
  11. A click from the starter motor doesn't mean it's fine. Does it spin the engine? If not, then the solenoid built into the starter could be the culprit
  12. @ Craig Would Sway Bar be what we know in the UK as Anti-roll Bar?
  13. A good bodge. Surprising what an old tin can can do. I trust it was a Heinz Baked Beans tin 😁
  14. I think it's worth trying what "The Fox", Brian, says above, about seeing what happens if you let the coolant find it's own level, rather than topping up to Max. My Corolla sits well below it's Max level on the reservoir (normally cold when I check it), but I never have to top it up. Good luck.
  15. Thanks for sharing your thoughts with us. I've not come across an oil fliter drain plug like you describe. It's certainly a possibility that it was the culprit, and I guess only time will tell. Fingers crossed that the engine now runs just like it always did ☺️