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Notoyboy last won the day on January 20

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About Notoyboy

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  1. Corolla Brake Pipe Flares and Unions

    Thanks OC, Seen your other posts, so good luck with the aircon. My Corolla is T2 so doesn't have aircon, which I think is a PITA as a car gets older, as sooner or later the aircon will give trouble. A nice to have item, but I've driven for 50 years without it. Mind you, could be useful in winter which is when I primarily use the Corolla with it's front wheel drive. Seemed to be misting up a lot, more recently, so have changed the pollen filter - not sure if that might improve matters.
  2. Corolla Brake Pipe Flares and Unions

    Hello OC, Presume you fixed the rear brake pipes' corrosion. How did you get on? Did you renew the full length front to rear? (just in case I have to do the same one day!)
  3. hybrid tyres

    Only my personal opinion, but I'd expect tyres to become noisier as they get older, due to the rubber compound hardening with age, and the tyre wearing.
  4. I had a similar problem after my Renault 5 was vandalised (a long time ago) . Like your Corolla, it had hinged rear quarter-lights. However, the base model had fixed glass with a different seal, and I was able to find the fixed glass and seal in a scrap yard. Just wondering if that's applicable to your Corolla, in which case gives you another option.
  5. Underbody Rust

    Yes OC, I agree that use of waste oil for protection isn't so long lasting, in those areas that get the splash and road grit thrown up, but there's only the labour cost, and that's free For that reason, I tend to smear grease on the steel brake pipework in vicinity of the wheels. @ OC: Re your rusting brake pipework, depending on how far along the pipe(s) the rust goes, could you consider just cutting out the affected length and using a coupler to connect back into the existing, assuming there's no handy connector in a convenient place. I say this without knowing whether the main runs front to rear are each in one piece.
  6. Underbody Rust

    Back in the 80s I used to use Waxoyl, but I only now use it close to rubber bushes & seals. I used to use it on my Reliant Scimitar's chassis etc, but gave up when I found the lovely thick build-up of waxoyl coming off because the rusting had continued underneath (despite the adverts), and was flaking off. Since then, on the 2 Citroens I ran for some 30 years, and on the present Corolla, I've just used waste engine oil, primarily on those areas which are showing signs of rust. It's good in that it creeps, useful if you can't get the old paint brush into the nooks & crannies, but has the drawback that it must be applied sparingly, otherwise it drips, making a mess of the driveway. Drips are no problem if you have a bit of rough ground where the car can be parked for a couple of days afterwards. Used to do the oil application annually, but now more like 6 months if the opportunity arises (eg. car jacked up for other work). I've tended not to bother trying to protect the heavier thicker suspension items, as there's so much metal there, and I don't want oil anywhere near the discs.
  7. Corolla d4d burning smell and whine

    If you can smell burning, then something is getting too hot. Has anything become loose and now touching the exhaust? Is it a rubbery burning smell? I had initially wondered if a too loose auxillary belt was slipping and getting hot, but you've presumably now checked tension seems reasonable. Regarding the whine, could the auxillary belt be overtight - not sure if this is possible on your car, but I had a whine on another car when I'd set the auxillary belt tension too tight. Might be worth removing the auxillary belt to see if whine disappears. Of course, the whine might be nothing to do with the smell, and is a separate issue. My 1.4 petrol has a chain driven camshaft, but just consulted my Haynes which suggests your diesel is belt driven. Haynes also says you have 2 auxillary belts, 1 for the aircon (if you have it), and 1 for the alternator & water pump (not sure about the power steering - mine's electric).
  8. Corolla d4d burning smell and whine

    Firstly, I'd not want to use the car until problem identified. Have you stuck your head under the bonnet? First off, have a look at the auxillary belt with engine off. Is it slack or disintegrating? Otherwise, with engine running, see if you can establish by ear as to where noise is coming from. Any work been done in the engine bay recently?
  9. Timing cover oil leak

    If it's only a minor oil leak/weep, why bother, especially if it really will take 12 hours to fix - just live with it. Suggest you need to have a look yourself to see whether it's worth worrying about. Always nice to have no leaks or other faults, but one has to be philosophical with cars as they get older. That said, oil leaks can be a nuisance if they are such as to leave marks on the driveway.
  10. Play in front Hub/CV joint

    False alarm then You haven't told us how the MoT went!
  11. Play in front Hub/CV joint

    I recollect finding rotational movement of that order on a previous FWD car, despite there being only just detectable movement in the out CV joint. I then realised that most of the rotational play was actually play in the gearbox/diff, because I'd been turning the jacked-up wheel with the car in gear, and the other front wheel sitting on the ground.
  12. Bottom Suspension front ball joint

    MK3 Cortina? Hmmmm.... Only once have I had to do a bottom joint, this being on a Renault 5 about 30 yrs ago. I well recall drilling/grinding the rivets out and fitting the machine screws, but don't recall it being a PITA job. The new joint fitted snugly into the lower wishbone's recess. At that time, I think I'd have fitted genuine Citroen parts, and I don't recollect removing the wishbone, or upsetting the wheel alignment. 30 years on, suspension design may be a little different, and every vehicle's different. Good luck
  13. No keys

    Here's hoping that you come across the owner's keys sometime soon, and save all the hassle of replacement
  14. 2005 Corolla heater fault

    Has the heater failure happened since you did some work on the cooling system (eg. thermostat replacement)? My initial thoughts would be that there could still be air in the heater matrix circuit.
  15. Have a leak coming from passenger side floor vent

    "Is there not a heater radiator that can leak" That's what I'd suspect. More commonly known as the "heater matrix" Don't think I like your garage. No properly fitted new radiator would lose coolant, unless the air had not been bled correctly from the system when the garage fitted it. Unfortunately some modern cars have cooling systems which can be difficult to bleed.