Notoyboy

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Notoyboy last won the day on April 9

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About Notoyboy

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Martin
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla
  • Toyota Year
    2003
  • Location
    Merseyside

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  1. As regards steel/alloy, alloys will be more expensive and will suffer more from the salt on the roads. You could get plastic wheel trims for the steel wheels, if concerned about how the car looks, Also comes to mind that you'd need to check the wheel bolt requirements, as I know from the past that some Citroens had longer bolts for the alloys, and the bolt's shoulder was different. May be worth waiting for replies on the Forum, as to whether some other model of Toyota has wheels in the size (and bore) that you want, in which case you might pick some up second-hand. You might find that your winter tyres would be Ok on a slightly narrower rim. There are tables available which suggest what tyre width suits which width of rim. ET 40 is the wheel's offset on the hub. If you deviate from this, you need to check the wheel doesn't foul the suspension/brake calipers/wheel arch. On a previous car, I did deviate slightly, only satisfying myself that it was OK by fitting the wheel to the car to try it out.
  2. Can't help with most of your queries, but you need to read the 1/2J as 7 & 1/2J (7.5J) which is the 7.5" nominal rim width of your 17" diameter wheel. Wheel rim widths go up in increments of 1/2" (seeming to get wider and wider as the years go on!) Yes, the centre bore does matter. It's basically what locates the wheel centrally on the hub, and is in part a safety feature (as I understand it). This means the wheel nuts just bolt the wheel on to the hub.
  3. Notoyboy

    Mot failure

    12 volts doesn't mean the battery's necessarily fully charged. Best way to ensure spare battery is fully charged and ready to go is to have it connected to a Smart charger 😊
  4. The fact that you've achieved an improvement with bleeding suggests air is getting into the system somehow, so I think replacing the cheapest/easiest item first is a good plan. BTW, is it possible that air got into the reservoir because the fluid had run a little too low, which could occur as the brake pads wear?
  5. Hmmmm.... your suggestion in earlier post of an issue with the gearbox has some credence. Could be the gearbox, or even the diff which we tend to forget. When was gearbox oil last changed, and was there much metal debris. Is it worth checking gearbox oil level? Haynes suggests gearbox oil change at 40,000 miles. Any untoward noises when spinning the front wheels, with car jacked up, though I'm not sure how useful this check really is.
  6. Hmmm, I'm no expert, so casting around for other ideas.... so, if not the wheel bearings (you've done well, replacing them all), then a worn CV joint? A worn joint somewhere in the suspension? Seeing another of your posts, the car's done quite a mileage - is it possible the engine's dropped, and the rumble noise is the engine sitting on a failed engine mounting, and the engine vibration is being transmitted through the body? I assume the exhaust's not so close to the bodywork that there's contact when the engine moves slightly. Whatever the fault, I'd be reluctant to do more work until confident I'd identified the problem. Has the rumble slowly crept up, or did it seem to appear after some work had been done on the car? Never easy to identify, with having tyre noise, which can get worse as the tyres wear. OldCodger is very knowledgable with having a 1.6 Corolla, and I expect he'll have some wise words for you, Hopefully he'll be along soon ☺️
  7. Not always easy tracking down which wheel is the culprit. When you replaced the bearing for the first time, was the old bearing definitely failing? Wondering if you've been focusing on the wrong wheel, and it's another wheel bearing playing games. Did the replacement bearings give the same rumble as soon as they were fitted? Were the bearings supplied by Toyota? I guess there are bound to be fakes/poor copies around.
  8. OC's details show what I think is from autobulbsdirect, and look promising. However, a warning, that they might not be quite as small as the present 286 bulbs, so depends how much space there is round the bulbs/holders. Let us know how you get on 🙂
  9. Never heard of purge fluid. This fluid you've got: could you not just add it into the fuel tank?. Any fuel pipes you remove might, I say "might", actually allow air into the system, which you'd then have to bleed out. I used to use a Millers diesel fuel additive, which amongst other things, claimed to clean the injectors. It was added when filling up the tank.
  10. Unless you want to collect the new battery yourself for convenience, I've seen good reports of Tayna in Abergele, with competitive prices, even with P & P. That's a crazy Eurocarparts price, unless you can get a very good discount. I've noticed in recent times that ECP battery prices are way OTT.
  11. The bulb Gerg shows looks the same 1.2w capless that I fitted to my Corolla's heater controls (non-aircon) a few years back. Definitely helpful at night having at least 1 of the heater control bulbs working. IIRC it was a slight struggle getting at them to do the replacement (I used Haynes), and I think somewhere at the back of the mechanism, a small piece of the white plastic broke off (to no detriment it seems). No idea about the bulbs in the switches. On my previous much older Citroen, the bulbs in the switches were not replaceable. Not sure what the situation is with the Corolla, and some of us might consider that to be a new challenge 😀. Simpler to replace like with like, rather than try LEDs, unless a direct swap. Would LEDs cost more?
  12. Unable to say what battery my Corolla originally fitted with, but just before I acquired the car in 2013, the present Varta 3 year battery was fitted, & and still doing well. It is a Type 027, 60 Ah & 540 CCA. I suspect it is the same physical size as the OP's, but of much higher capacity.
  13. Don't think I'd bother to switch to a different fluid, particularly if it's not compatible with what you've presently got. Could be a lot of effort. I don't stick to the 24 months fluid change interval, although one benefit of regular attention is that the bleed nipples are less likely to seize up with regular bleeding.
  14. Having a Corolla of similar vintage, I'm interested in how you fix the problem, in case I should encounter something similar. In checking the wiring, I assume a check's also been made of plugs/connectors (if any), both visually and by disconnecting & remaking the connections to remove any corrosion of the contacts. The only thing that doesn't work on my Corolla is the average fuel consumption, which always displays 99.99 mpg (I wish!). Not sure if this has occured as part of the ageing process, or whether a wire could have been disturbed in one of the 3 recalls for the airbags.
  15. Another possibility is a very worn tyre, or a c*ap make of tyre with terrible grip. Are both the front tyres same make with similar degree of wear?