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Everything posted by Notoyboy

  1. @ Konrad, I've read all about the cut-outs in your previous posts. Your above photos provide the best explanation of the problem, thank you. I read your posts in case I end up with an Avensis one day! Martin
  2. i do the same as Furtula. The only problem for me is that I use old engine oil which tends to be black, so makes marks on the drive if I don't apply it sparingly ☹️
  3. So in summary of what's happened , and what's been checked, you're saying that at random the car just won't. When this happens, is the starter motor turning the engine over when you turn the key? If not, are you getting a click from the solenoid (not always easy to hear), which I guess is mounted on top of the starter motor? From my understanding of what you've said, I'd first suspect the starter motor. The brushes wear over time, and I've had experience of a starter motor which began to play up, not spinning the engine from time to time. A few turns of the ignition key and it would then decide to spin the engine. I swapped the starter, which included the solenoid, and no further problems. Could it be as simple as the ignition switch?
  4. As Flash says, may be time for a new 12v battery, especially if it's the original
  5. The general manufacturers' recommendation is to connect the charger's +ve lead to battery, and then the -ve lead to any suitable earth point away from the battery. Probably a bit of a Health & Safety requirement. This is because there is a very minimal risk that when making the -ve connection, there could be an explosion if the battery has been gassing, when it gives off hydrogen. Same applies when jump starting from another battery, when there could be a spark if both leads from the good battery are made to the flat battery, hence the recommendation to make the (second) connection to an earth point away from the battery. I think many of us make both connections direct to the battery, and we are still here to tell the tale 😀
  6. Not a good advert for Toyota!
  7. Notoyboy

    Winter tyres

    @ Agent Orange - thanks for the reply. I suspect we don't live that far apart ☺️
  8. Notoyboy

    Winter tyres

    Although I'm presently using winter tyres on my Corolla, I don't consider I really need them nowadays, especially with living on the west coast with the benefits of the Gulf Stream, so I'm considering whether to go for All-Season tyres when I next need the summer tyres replacing. Does anyone know whether the rubber used in All-Season tyres is the same as for summer tyres, or a half-way compromise towards winter grade?
  9. In the past, it was not recommended that the alternator be disconnected whilst the engine was running, and I've always managed to avoid doing it. Unless alternator design has changed, or we were all being misled, I'd go for doing something with the battery, along the lines of Nick (Yossarian)'s suggestions
  10. As you say, alternatively it's a special tool. Or, a length of hexagonal bar, but you'll only know it's 6mm once it's slotted in. Presume it'll be same size as the other alignment adjuster
  11. Would a 1/4" drive socket set provide enough reach, using the 2 extension bars they normally come with (in UK), plus a 6mm allen key to suit 1/4" drive which may or may not be in the same set? I've experienced awkward access to adjust headlights in the past, and it can be difficult getting to the adjusters.
  12. The LEDs are quite likely from China 😁 Hi Sam, is this bulb the replacement for the one you were telling us about at the beginning of your thread. If so, did you check that it's nice and secure in it's holder. A bulb that's not nice and secure with good electrical contacts, moves around, possibly causing fluctuations in the current to the filament, so it won't last so long. So, is it just the one bulb position that keeps blowing, or the whole lot!
  13. Hi Oldcodger, Sorry I can't offer any good advice re the whine. I'd do what you're doing, in flagging up the issue now, and weighing up what to investigate, whilst continuing to use the car and see how things develop. With the 120k mileage, and regular oil changes @ 40k, is it about to have another oil change, or just had it? Any reason the gearbox oil level not what it should be (thinking to the fact that it might have needed refilling when clutch done). When you say the very early Corolla gearboxes could be prone to failure, would this be the previous model to yours?
  14. Well, the battery volts aren't bad Konrad, but sounds from what you say as if the battery's not got the same ooooomph ((CCA or amp. hr. capacity) that it had when new. Batteries last a lot longer than they did in previous decades, but slowly loose their capacity, and also become less efficient when being recharged. I try to eke as much life out of batteries as possible, but there comes a time ........ ☹️
  15. In addition to Frostyballs comments, I would add that it's worth checking the wiring connectors, and also the earthing. Plus remove and refit any fuses a couple of times, in case they should be suffering. Corrosion can creep insiduously and slowly, so we don't notice lights deteriorating over the years. Not easy working out where earths are located on modern vehicles, but a way round this is to just run a new lead from a convenient point, to the lighting concerned, main attention being the headlights.
  16. The colder weather we're experiencing will find out any not so good battery, as the battery relies on internal chemical action which less effective the colder it gets, plus the engine oil has more drag as it gets colder, all transpiring against us. Battery being sluggish recently suggests it's not getting adequate charge, or maybe on it's last legs. If it were the original battery, then it's done very well. The EML coming on may be because the battery volts are low. Technology on cars nowadays is reliant on a well charged/good battery - a low battery can give weird warning lights/messages. I have a friend with an Aygo, maybe a year older than yours, and the recent low battery threw up a number of warning lights.
  17. I'd be suspecting the fuel level sender unit in the tank, perhaps it's sticking for some reason. I'd check out the wiring & connectors to it first. Can't advise as to which fuse to check, - presumably all other electrice are OK?
  18. It will be quicker for the garage to replace the suspension arm, rather than just replace the bush, so it's a matter of balancing the extra cost of the arm against the extra labour needed to replace the bush. Dependent upon type of bush, it can be quite a struggle getting the new bush inserted, speaking as a DIYer. A long time back, copper brake pipe was available, but the modern pipe is Cunifer, which is an alloy of (mainly) copper & nickel. A lot easier to bend than steel pipe, although some OE steel pipes might be pre-shaped. I've only ever used Cunifer, which the garage will buy as a coil, and cut to length, and shape it as required. Cunifer will outlive the car!
  19. I hope the circuit board does the trick. Thinking back to Jason's original post, grandma @ 92 must be pretty fit and agile to have been pulled out through the window. Hope not too many bruises!
  20. Hi Sam, That's very interesting that you've got a noticeable improvement in the way the car's driving, with the new coil packs. Until now, I'd have thought the packs either work or they don't. Learn something every day. Might explain your poor fuel consumption (as long as you don't now drive it as if on steroids all the time 😁)
  21. Hal might be right, in that the bulb was poorly made. I find I have to replace the number plate bulbs on both my ageing vehicles something like every approx 3 years, with the 5w wedge or festoon bulbs going black and then ultimately failing. The number plate bulbs are mounted on the tailgate(s), which obviously suffer a good thump every time the tailgate gets closed, and I've always wondered if this vibration is part of the problem, as well as slight corrosion of the contacts as the vehicles get older. I wonder if the number plate bulbs bulbs aren't quite as secure in their holders as the bayonet type side/brake reverse/indicator bulbs, whether in the tailgate or on the rear wings. I suspect a poor electrical contact will also result in bulbs becoming black and failing prematurely.
  22. That's exactly what I would do. It will identify any glowplug out of kilter with the rest. If you're lucky and get infinite resistance (ie. a break in the heater coil), then you may have found the root cause of the problem. My last diesel the one busbar feeding all 4 glowplugs, but I modified it so each glowplug had it's own cable from the relay, making it easier to test the resistance of each glowplug in-situ. Not foolproof, but saved the hassle of removing the glowplugs, which can be fiddly, depending where they are on the engine, maybe buried under fuel pipes, wiring & ancillaries etc. PS. Worthwhile looking at the busbar itself, if you have one. Mine was a very heavy cable (supply was 80-90 amps peak), and I started to suspect the integrity of the lead off it to each glowplug, which was just crimped on to the busbar cable. Happy hunting in the colder weather!
  23. I assume your wife's laughter was because with the threat of being videod, the engine decided to be good and start up! In my ownership of 2 diesel engined cars in the past, I'd always first check the glowplugs whenever the engine became more difficult to start. On 1 occasion as winter approached, a long grind on the starter would be followed by very lumpy running for a few seconds, with much smoke (unburnt fuel). Turned out to be not just 1, but 2 failed glowplugs, which wasn't obvious until summer turned to winter and temperatures plummeted. Diesels need air, fuel and heat to start. If the glowplugs aren't doing their job, your giving the engine several spins before it starts will be helping warm up the compustion chambers during the compression strokes, which may be why it takes a while to start. Other consideration would be the fuel and injection system, and of course, one assumes the compression is good. I've no knowledge of your engine, so only able to make generalised comments. Start with the easy/cheap checks first.
  24. If the battery is the correct one for your vehicle, then I would expect your 2 year old Bosch should still be good, always assuming it's getting a good charge from regular use. The 12.3 volts you quote doesn't seem too bad - my car starts no problem with that sort of voltage. The fact that it spins the engine over suggests it's not the problem, although if it's the original starter & high mileage, there could worn brushes by now, so it won't be performing as good as new. However, it is spinning the engine, so I'd look elsewhere, not forgetting that the weather's now getting colder, which is more likely to show up any problems. My first action would be to feel the battery terminals immediately after start, easy enough to do - any warmth would suggest internal corrosion causing lose of power to starter. Then check the battery earth connection(s) to the body are nice and clean/bright metal. As Paul suggests, your problem probably lies elsewhere.