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About kissinger

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    West Midlands

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  1. This is interesting. I wonder if it would be worth buying a scan tool and doing it at home rather than taking it to a garage, if all they're going to do is a forced regen?
  2. Ah, I see. That's actually quite reassuring. Not that hard to keep the car doing 40 for 10 mins. I thought it needed a lot more than that to kick-in, so I was worried about blocking it with doing less long-distance driving lately. My old Octavia and my partner's Hyundai were both slightly different, but both needed a lot more driving at high revs. But do I need to worry about stopping after the regen kicks in. How long would it usually take for the regen to complete after it initiates? And do you still need to keep it at min. 40 until it's finished.
  3. I’m concerned about this because the car manual doesn’t say, and the only bit of vague guidance I can find online is a Toyota press release that states “Quite simply, this means regularly driving the car at speeds above 40mph for a period of at least ten minutes.” I’d like to know the exact parameters so that I can take the car out and guarantee a DPF regen every once in a while. 10 minutes about 40 mph is also a lot less than my partner’s ix35 DPF guidance, which requires 20 mins at 2k revs.
  4. I will, but eBay seems to sell cut keys that you can program yourself that are a lot cheaper than even a Timpsons. Are they best avoided?
  5. I bought a 2010 RAV4 recently, but it only has one key. I’d rather not pay dealership prices for a replacement spare. Is there a cheaper way to get one? From what I can tell you can get a cut key online that you can programme at home, but would that be for both the remote locking and immobiliser, or would I need to get the immobiliser done at a garage?
  6. Thanks. I really appreciate it. This will help me make sure the dealer does the required work. Are these tests any garage can do or would only Toyota have the necessary equipment?
  7. So I bought a RAV4 last week from a dealer near where I live and today on my morning commute I got a check engine warning. Had it diagnosed roadside and it threw up a "DTC: P062D,No. 1 Fuel Injector Driver Circuit Performance error code." Does anyone have any experience with these? What work typically needs doing and is it usually expensive? The dealership should cover it, but I want to make sure they do a proper job and don't do just enough to get it running again for the duration of the warranty.
  8. Thanks, I did end up buying the car, and I think I'll take advantage of this offer. However! Major problem with it. I got it yesterday afternoon and checked the oil this morning before my first commute and it's well over the fill line! I'm hoping it's just because of an overfill at the recent service, but I'm worried that it's a much worse problem (maybe the turbo failing). Is this a common problem with RAVs? Not sure whether to try to return the car, because other than that I think it's great.
  9. That sounds pretty decent. I'm looking at getting the D-4D diesel manual though. Not sure if that one is more expensive to maintain. I also won't be able to purchase the extended warranty because I'll be just over the 100k mileage limit.
  10. I've been on the hunt for a new car for a couple of months now. I've found a facelifted 2010 RAV4 that I really like, but I was wondering if it's going to be really expensive to maintain compared to, say, a similar age Avensis or Auris? I read that the RAV4 service interval is 5k miles, which seems really low (and really expensive)! Do you guys recommend sticking to that, or can you get away with 10k safely? Is it expensive to maintain in other ways as well? I'm expecting tyres to cost, but can't really think of anything else that will be out of the ordinary.
  11. I've been looking for a car for my weekly long motorway commute (about 300 miles round trip). I'm on a tight budget and my main priority is reliability. For those reasons, the Avensis seemed a sensible choice. I was hoping for a 2.0 D-4D, but I haven't been able to find one I like. I have, however, found an immaculate condition 2.2 D-CAT version, with full Toyota service history, at the right price. It looks like it's a good buy, but is there anything I should be wary of? What is a realistic MPG figure on this car? Is it as reliable as the other versions? How much hassle is the DPF/DNPR?
  12. That's what I was hoping. I put £25 petrol in after the £2.50 of diesel, and the tank was already 10% full with petrol to begin with!
  13. So yesterday when I was filling up I foolishly put a small amount of diesel in my '06 Prius (the meter got to around £2.50 before I realised). I thought I would be okay if I just filled up the rest of the tank with petrol (which is what I did), but I've just went to start it and it's dead. It did start at first just now, but I think it was running on the residual battery charge because the engine didn't kick in and the fuel gauge showed empty. I drove it around 10 miles home from where I filled up and then used it again later that evening. What should my next moves be? Is draining
  14. I topped up when cold and then checked when it was cold-ish (i.e., I had driven around 5 miles and then left it for an hour).
  15. So bad news on this one. I filled the coolant to the max level yesterday and it's already gone down by at least an inch and a half. Surely that can't be normal? I still can't spot any leaks on the driveway, but I did notice some steam on the outside of the front windshield, which is a bit unusual (although this was after I stopped midway through a journey to look under the hood). Any ideas what could be wrong and what it might cost me? I will be annoyed if I have to take it back to my local Toyota dealer/garage already. I only had it serviced 2 months ago.
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