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gezhenry

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About gezhenry

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  • First Name
    gez
  • Toyota Model
    Toyota Celica
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Cheshire

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  1. Was thinking maybe if it was a smallish area trying to fill it with something strong like an epoxy or something similarly strong as opposed to maybe welding, if it was still safe, and then painting the whole subframe so it would all look like a new frame? Are there any other of the same cars in breakers yards in your area of the world you could try and take a frame off, and then clean up, to see if a swap would be a diy-able proposition for you first?
  2. I don't think the recommendation against using Lpg in petrol engines is surprising or isolated. I'm not sure about the valvematic engine's, but Toyota's I think have softer valve seats, and aren't as easily adjusted. However valve seat wear can be mitigated against by several means and running Lpg can be kinder to engines in some ways as it burns as a cleaner fuel. You would have to weigh up the costs/benefits with regards your particular car and engine whether the chance/likelihood of engine wear over the time and mileage you do as opposed to the cost of remedy and value of your vehicle
  3. I've converted my 1.8vvti (140hp 1zzfe engine but not valvematic) last year and it seems to run v well I've looked into this with other previous owners with the same engine with pretty good reports over reasonable mileage s on this engine before I did it. There are pro's and con's of it, the biggest +ve being that equivalent mpg can go right up, it's quite hard to work out and it's only early but I reckon I could be getting equivalent 70mpg+ now. Is this something you're considering, and whereabouts do you live cos it can be a factor now if you don't live in a city. There is a s
  4. If it's only localised rust, but still structurally sound, could you not remove the rust, fill it with something appropriately strong, then hammerite/paint over the whole frame, then take it somewhere else for re-testing?
  5. I think the mot rules re:heatshields have got a bit more strict recently and maybe there isn't the same adherence everywhere, it sounds like the mot tester was a bit lenient with you, however if not reattaching the heat shield they should at least have returned it to you. Those 'health checks' are really good, was it from a Toyota dealer, I've had a few, but bare in mind they're going to be notoriously ruthless in trying to find prospective work, not everyone mite know there's one missing. I'd go back to the mot station and see if they've still got the heatshield, or when taking back
  6. That's interesting that Tony and some good info there, my 'procedure' is when it's time for a service I remove the plugs give em a clean/replace/gap them (running Lpg I think I've seemed to notice that running a narrower gap seems to improve mpg on petrol too but I'm not sure too), I put oil flush type stuff through into via the cylinders and let it sit (sometimes I just use acetone/nail varnish or similar) then after a couple of runs and letting it sit, change the oil/filter. I also sometimes put it in through the pcv hose which is also easy. Can't say for certain if it works but it's ch
  7. I'm not sure but I think you can just clean the ICV valves out and you might be able to get aftermarket backing plates that may be interchangeable with other Toyota's not tooo expensive on the likes of eBay might be worth checking
  8. During this unused lockdown period I wonder if you removed the plugs etc and leaving like a seafoam solvent to sit as a piston soak for a while might have a little benefit? (I've had a little success at this) And regarding the battery, well done there sir 11yrs out of your oem battery is impressive, aren't those battery 'reconditioners' supposed to be effective? I've thought about getting one to use on my old battery I replaced I'm keeping for emergency s, but I don't know the lowdown on them?
  9. Lol, yes you are certifiably 'mad' considering changing your car cos your window wipers need changing lol!! Only joking there I'd be all up for getting a newer better car when the bills start getting big, however I think yours could be the exception there. It's a case of cost benefit analysis, how much and go easy to get another car at mo without much work needing doing to it, the 'emotional' cost and guarantee of provenance of your current car against the cost of getting your car back up to scratch, it doesn't sound like your car has yet got to the stage where everything's gonna fai
  10. I think Stivino brings up a good relevant general point here, apart from buying an oil that "as long as it meet the specs for your particular car", which most can anyway, how do you insist on not buying a "cheap oil" ie. how do you differentiate between a "quality oil" and a "non-quality oil" when the price is just dependent on where you get from and on offers. Also, most oils will have a lot of blurb on them about them, the expensive ones probably more so, and branding is also a feature of that. I just get, and pretty much insist on a fully synthetic, usually just the supermarket br
  11. Looks good, nice project, they're becoming collectable, think yours may have had one of the more expensive 'pack's added on purchase the only later special editions had coloured seats, one and only first thing to do is get it well jet washed underneath and try and nip in the bud any rust in the spots they go pre winter ideally. Looking at the mot history it seems like a pretty reasonable one, good purchase well done!!
  12. I know on my Toyota if you spray some grease under the rubber cover on the slave cylinder it cures the creaking.
  13. Brilliant I'm glad to hear you've made progress keep on top of it and an eye on the oil level, remember it's only a prob if it gets really low or runs out, beware that if you go on a long spirited drive that can be the problem as it burns a lot more at high rpm, so that 'll be when the risk is. I always give mine a good flushing just in case cos it's cheap and easy (I just use diesel and the like), despite the advice on some models of cars they argue against it. And regular oil changes using only fully synthetic. Oh and really high prolonged engine temperatures can cause oil bur
  14. Yeah keep using the premium juice and some of the other tips I suggested, and can you keep us posted and report back on how much or what difference they make, that'd be interesting Thanks and good luck for now G
  15. Sounds like you've got a great car and well worth keeping and treating, however it does suffer from the 2 main Achilles heels of the earlier models. Generally the oil burning probs, bar the engine/change work you could always do in the future, potential things you can try, keep a regular eye on the oil level it only becomes a problem if you run out or v low, bear in mind high revs will burn more oil, run premium fuel, additives in fuel, regular oil changes and good flushes, seafoam (or water) sprayed into the throttle body or through the pcv hose, a piston soak ie. leaving seafoam etc to
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