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About Countrylad

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    Auris Touring Icon Plus
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  1. My 2014 Auris Touring has just had a dealer service @ 62K, and the report said that I had 8mm left on my front pads and 9mm left on the rears. All these pads (and discs) were the originals. Quite impressive. Then again, half my mileage is on the motorway, and I rarely do any city driving. Driving style is paramount in these matters.
  2. I replaced both the HIR2 bulbs on my Auris after one died. From memory, it cost me about £20 for the Osrams, and the job was quick and easy. A small mirror and an LED headtorch from Poundland can make a difference to visibility. Now, if you want a really hard bulb change, try doing the nearside headlight on a Ford Focus! It helps if you've got a double-jointed four year old around the place.
  3. Summary of the Toyota diesel head issue: I had a blown head gasket once on a diesel Ford Focus TDCI. As you say, the problem was (temporarily) manageable if I depressurised the coolant reservoir from time to time. It cost me about £700 in the end to get it replaced at my local indy, but that was because everything else was clean and tidy inside. (No EGR issues, for instance, and the head hadn't warped from the overheating.) I am sure you fessed up to the prob at trade-in time? Hope the new car serves you well.
  4. Don't spend too much time worrying about this, but the shield is also there to stop the heat from the cat from setting fire to long grass in the laybys. I have a distant memory that some Jaguars used to be prone to that problem. Either way, the shield isn't a critically complicated piece of technology. I've had to bend the shield on a Volkswagen into shape when it rattled. If it needed more, I reckon my local indie garage would put my car up on the ramps and wire it up for a couple of beer tokens. Don't use plastic coated wire…...
  5. If the door's open while the key is in the ignition (but with the engine not running), you'll get a beep. With the door closed, it shouldn't be happening. Leastways, that's the way it is on my 2014 1.6 petrol.
  6. Ouch, commiserations. Agree with others, that's more than a dent-pulling number because of the crease at the top. Should be within the abilities of a small outfit, though, and they charge punters a lot less than they charge the insurance companies. Get a few quotes, and good luck.
  7. Countrylad


    If you're changing the gearbox oil, it doesn't hurt to have the box properly flushed out while you're at it. I'm a great believer in changing transmission oil, it rarely fails to improve a notchy box.
  8. After nine years it isn't unreasonable to need a regas. Five years would be considered pretty good on most cars. My wife's VW only managed two years on its first charge! (Although, to be fair, VW did recharge it under warranty ,and it was still good five years later when we sold it.) The issue, as I understand it, is that the refrigerant gas molecules are small enough to slip through the tiny microscopic pores in every flexible joint, no matter how tightly you seal it. So, over the years, a fair number of them are bound to get away. Nothing particularly suspicious about it.
  9. I have this feeling that your insurance company may want to be told about the mod? Shouldn't be a complete blocker, but if it affects handling then that could be an issue if they found out after they'd dug you out of the hedge? Suspension and tracking is a many-splendoured thing. Just saying.
  10. Quick way. Find out (by experimentation) how far away from the car you can be standing and still get the doors to work. Then hold the key so that it touches your head, and try the test again. (I kid you not. Your cranium acts as an additional aerial.) It should make a difference of a few yards. If it's much more, consider a new battery.
  11. Oh yeah, don't touch the turbo unless it's good and cold. Those things spin at 150,000 rpm, and they can glow orange-hot even when they're working normally. Nuff said.
  12. Agreed, sadly, it's very likely that the bearings and/or the oil seals on your turbo have gone. If you wind down the driver's door window while passing a brick wall, the chances are that you'll hear the "police siren" wail. If so, don't ignore the sound for too long. The wailing you hear is the sound of the titanium turbo blades colliding with the edge of the turbo casing, because the bearings are no longer keeping them in line..And if the blades do break up you're looking at a top-end rebuild to get all the metal junk out of your cylinders. But OK, it's a ten year old car. The Toyota replacement will cost you upwards of £1600 by the time it's fitted; but a remanufactured turbo from a reputable source will be about half that. Your oil feed pipe will probably need to be replaced because it's full of deposits - indeed, that'll be the reason why the turbo has failed in the first place - and your intercooler may be full of oily junk which will have to be flushed out. (No big deal, but not to be forgotten.) These guys ( were good to me when my Ford's turbo went. Turbo was £300-odd, and indy garage charged £250 to fit. Good luck!
  13. Countrylad

    Low mpg

    Give it a proper high-speed run so as to burn off all the carbon and other crud that's clogging up your engine. A diet of low-speed urban traffic will do that sort of thing to any car. 70 miles up the motorway at 75mph, and 70 miles back at the same speed ought to be enough. (Keep it down to fifth or even fourth gear if you can't go that fast.) An Italian tune-up like this will also do wonders for your emissions in the MOT test. But obviously, do make sure that water, oil and tyre pressures are all OK before you set out on your carbon-busting run. Returning to your point, I have a 64 reg Touring Sport 1.6, about 60K on the clock, and my normal mpg varies between 38 and 44. (More in summer, less in winter.) If it's doing city stop-starts, it might only manage 33 mpg. But the Italian tune-up will always add 3-4 mpg, sometimes more. On long journeys in France, the car might average 46 mpg. That isn't very good in comparison with more modern engines, which is why Toyota have stopped making it now - but the 1.6 is a simple old charmer - no turbo, no gimmicky electronic tricks, just an honest to goodness lump that will still be running when all the 1.2 turbos have whizzed their little bearings off and left their owners at the mercy of their dealers. You also have better rear suspension than most other models in the range, and it'll have improved the ride more than somewhat. Nice reliable car, enjoy it.
  14. I generally try googling something like "Auris (or Corolla) rear light wiring images", and as often as not I get the info I need. Some of the results will be circuit diagrams, and others will be photo shots. Good luck!
  15. What kind of bad changes are you experiencing? Loud crunchy ones, or difficulty snicking into particular gears, or trouble changing up, or down? Or even a complete refusal to enter 2,4,6 (or 1,3,5), or just the upper gears? You've got two linkage cables, one of which does left/right and the other one does up/down. It's possible for those cables to get out of line, in which case they need adjusting either at the top or the bottom of the linkages (it can be either). I haven't had trouble with my Auris's linkages, but on my old VW Passat I had some stiffness/refusals when engaging certain gears with the engine hot. It turned out to be caused by water getting onto a ball joint and creating muck, down where the linkage meets the gearbox. My independent garage stripped and cleaned it, and it fixed everything. Cost me about £80, which was great because I was half-expecting a new gearbox. If your change is crunchy, it could be a clutch issue. But it never hurts to replace the gearbox oil - it worked wonders for my noisy old Focus.