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About Countrylad

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    Auris Touring Icon Plus
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  1. I'd be inclined to drill a couple of tiny holes through the plastic on both sides of each break, and then stitch them together with fine steel wire. You have bags of space, and it shouldn't take more than a few minutes, and it won't ever break. Epoxy would be a good reinforcement, though. Make sure it's all scrupulously clean.
  2. Wot oldcodger said. SGS did me proud for my Focus. Not necessarily the cheapest, but good quick service ,and quality was perfect. WRT the tailgate, the broom should be okay as long as it's long enough to lift it high enough. I have my doubts. 🙄 A couple of lengths of two by four, one at each side, would be a better idea because then you've got a backup in case one slips. Can you get a mate to standby in case of need? Even with one strut working, I wouldn't have wanted to cop the weight of that tailgate crashing down on my bonce.
  3. Thanks for the prod. I just went to change the batteries on my 2014 Auris key fobs, which have done 5+ years of good service - but I found that they they weren't the same as the ones in the video, and they needed to be opened in a different way. They also needed 2016 batteries, not 2032. Does yours look like this? (The square corner tag is chromed, in my case) Bit of a struggle, but I eventually found this Youtube video, which covers it as an Aygo key (and for the Peugeot 108 and the Citroen C1, both of which are Aygos under the skin): Doddle, anyway. There's a slot for a screwdriver under the square corner tag, which pops off the cover from the fob. You won't see the slot until you've removed the keys from the fob. And like I say, the fob needs a 2016 battery, so best to get one in advance. 😏
  4. Two units in a row that don't work won't be a coincidence. 🤔 Somewhere or other, you've got a leccy bit that isn't delivering the juice. Could be a lot of things, but most likely to be a dicky connector somewhere - assuming, of course, that other parts of your mirror assembly work. (Adjuster motor, mirror demister etc. I'm assuming you've checked those?) Of course it might be a failed flasher unit, but that's for the future. I don't know the Auris's wiring diagram - I never needed to tangle with it! - but I'd doubt that there's very much cabling between your mirror indicator and the relay. Happy to be corrected. 🙁
  5. Shurely a bit of aluminium sheet, the size of a matchbox, with one big hole for the pivot and two small ones to take a couple of small fixing bolts (or pop rivets)? You've probably got something suitable in your garage. Or a mending plate, perhaps?
  6. DON'T TOUCH IT!!!!!!!!! Ejector seat. 😜
  7. Installed my piggyback this afternoon, using the official Nextbase kit. (Only £11 on Ebay, bargain. ) The Auris owner's manual was as good as a chocolate teapot on describing where the fuse box was and how to access it, but I got there in the end. Yes, the two 15 amp fuses (for cigarette lighter and for boot 12v socket) are both suitable. Although I had to trim some of the plastic off the fuse before the very short tangs on the fuses would fit the Nextbase adapter. I can also confirm that the fuse box cover doesn't fit once the piggyback is in place. I just wedged it in nearby so that it's there for future reference. Everything good so far, and working well, with no rattles.
  8. My 2014 Auris Touring has just had a dealer service @ 62K, and the report said that I had 8mm left on my front pads and 9mm left on the rears. All these pads (and discs) were the originals. Quite impressive. Then again, half my mileage is on the motorway, and I rarely do any city driving. Driving style is paramount in these matters.
  9. I replaced both the HIR2 bulbs on my Auris after one died. From memory, it cost me about £20 for the Osrams, and the job was quick and easy. A small mirror and an LED headtorch from Poundland can make a difference to visibility. Now, if you want a really hard bulb change, try doing the nearside headlight on a Ford Focus! It helps if you've got a double-jointed four year old around the place.
  10. Summary of the Toyota diesel head issue: I had a blown head gasket once on a diesel Ford Focus TDCI. As you say, the problem was (temporarily) manageable if I depressurised the coolant reservoir from time to time. It cost me about £700 in the end to get it replaced at my local indy, but that was because everything else was clean and tidy inside. (No EGR issues, for instance, and the head hadn't warped from the overheating.) I am sure you fessed up to the prob at trade-in time? Hope the new car serves you well.
  11. Don't spend too much time worrying about this, but the shield is also there to stop the heat from the cat from setting fire to long grass in the laybys. I have a distant memory that some Jaguars used to be prone to that problem. Either way, the shield isn't a critically complicated piece of technology. I've had to bend the shield on a Volkswagen into shape when it rattled. If it needed more, I reckon my local indie garage would put my car up on the ramps and wire it up for a couple of beer tokens. Don't use plastic coated wire…...
  12. If the door's open while the key is in the ignition (but with the engine not running), you'll get a beep. With the door closed, it shouldn't be happening. Leastways, that's the way it is on my 2014 1.6 petrol.
  13. Ouch, commiserations. Agree with others, that's more than a dent-pulling number because of the crease at the top. Should be within the abilities of a small outfit, though, and they charge punters a lot less than they charge the insurance companies. Get a few quotes, and good luck.
  14. Countrylad


    If you're changing the gearbox oil, it doesn't hurt to have the box properly flushed out while you're at it. I'm a great believer in changing transmission oil, it rarely fails to improve a notchy box.
  15. After nine years it isn't unreasonable to need a regas. Five years would be considered pretty good on most cars. My wife's VW only managed two years on its first charge! (Although, to be fair, VW did recharge it under warranty ,and it was still good five years later when we sold it.) The issue, as I understand it, is that the refrigerant gas molecules are small enough to slip through the tiny microscopic pores in every flexible joint, no matter how tightly you seal it. So, over the years, a fair number of them are bound to get away. Nothing particularly suspicious about it.