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QuantumFireball last won the day on February 19

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About QuantumFireball

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    Prius Plug-in
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  1. In the manual for mine:
  2. In HV mode it will still use MG1 to charge the battery in order to maintain the state of charge to an extent, not just regen. "HV Auto" mode will make more use of the battery until it is depleted to HV-only levels. There are no separate "parts" of the battery as such, there are just two modes of how the car displays the SOC - the "EV" showing around 30-80% SOC, and the "HV" showing around 20-30% SOC (equivalent of a standard Prius). It only displays the latter once the battery is near the lower range of SOC. For longer journeys, assuming you're starting with a full charge, it'll more efficient to use HV mode and switch to EV for low-speed sections. It's even recommended in the manual in my Gen 1 Plug-in (probably same for the Gen 2). Charge Mode does not seem like an efficient solution to me. I think the intention is for using before entering strict LEV/ZEV zones if such things exist somewhere (or maybe they will in future), and you didn't have an opportunity to charge off the mains.
  3. I usually stick to Eco mode, I find I get slightly better EV range (Plug-in) and I can get better fuel economy while driving around town. It's also tied to the heating/aircon control in the Gen 3 in Auto mode (I know newer Toyotas have a separate "Eco" mode for HVAC), which I find reduces aircon and (when heating) ICE usage. Blocking the grille probably made a bigger difference with fuel usage though.
  4. As others said, a single button press while driving shouldn't do anything - you either need to push and hold, or stab the button three times. So unless there's high probability of either of those happening, I wouldn't worry too much.
  5. Mine's a 2012 with about 110k km, still going OK though it's probably lost a bit of EV range over the years. I wouldn't consider that particularly high mileage in your example. I don't know where you are, but in Ireland and the UK Toyota will maintain the battery warranty up to 10 years with annual inspections. PS Toyota's nomenclature is to use separate generations for the plug-ins, so 2012-2016 is the Gen 1 Prius Plug-in, not Gen 3 🙂 Or ZVW35 if you want to get technical.
  6. Left side looks like a mount for a standard trailer connector, so yes probably a bike carrier.
  7. I use Rain-X and like it a lot, though it's more effective at higher speeds. The problem is it wears away fairly quickly from using the wipers, though you can get away with using them less. And once it starts wearing off it may cause smearing, and I'm too lazy to apply it frequently enough. The new Bosch Aerotwin blades I got seem to smear and squeak badly, and I'm not sure how much of that is due to some remnants of Rain-X (maybe applied a month ago). They're awful compared to the OEM Gen 3 blades.
  8. I'm not sure about the Gen 4 wipers specifically, but I found Bosch Aerotwin blades worse than OEM.
  9. Yes, it's always been like that, the yanks have to be different, as usual 🙂 Though those numbers are a bit off: "Regular" there is 87 AKI, which is about the equivalent of 91 RON, as I said. And that's what Toyota recommend for the Prius in countries where it's available. The standard "Unleaded" in the UK and Ireland is 95 RON, which is around 90-91 AKI. The fancier petrols (V-Power or whatever) in the UK are usually 98-99 RON, which is around 93-94 AKI.
  10. Yes, any Type 1 to Type 2 cable like the above should work. Don't bother with main dealers, there are plenty available online.
  11. I wonder if the different fuel affects the piston rings differently? "Regular" petrol in the US is the equivalent of 91 RON, so is lower octane than the 95 RON we get over here. I've heard that the piston ring design was modified some time around 2015, so any 2ZR-FXE engine up until that point (Gen 3 Prius, Auris Hybrid, CT200h, Prius+) could potentially run into oil consumption issues. Regarding head gasket failures, I've seen evidence on PriusChat that a blocked EGR cooler can lead to this due to excessive heat. Some suggest cleaning out the EGR valve pipe and cooler around 100k miles. Again, I've only heard of this in the US.
  12. My 2012 Plug-in logs the EV Driving Ratio too, which is currently around 38% - but this doesn't take into account when running in HV mode (like a normal Prius) with the ICE off. At 100k miles I think it might be good to clean out the EGR valve pipe and cooler, as these tend to get blocked up and have been known to lead to head gasket failure if they're seriously blocked (due to excessive temperature in that area). Probably worth checking the intake manifold too as they can get fouled with oil. It's fairly well known that these engines suffer from poorly designed piston rings (fixed sometime around 2015), so keep an eye on oil consumption. I see a lot of American Prius owners talk about changing the transmission fluid - does anyone bother over here? Toyota claim it's good for life, but many are not so sure about that...
  13. Sounds like it's in limp mode, you'll need to read the fault codes to see what the problem is. Could be 12V battery is knackered, though judging by the age the traction battery could be on the way out too. I wouldn't recommend driving it in this state until it's sorted out. If the traction battery is bad, the cells can go pop...
  14. Sounds fishy to me. A cat could be damaged by too much oil or unburnt fuel getting through to the exhaust, but there'd have to be something else significantly wrong with the engine or fuelling to cause either of those. The ICE just running more shouldn't do that, unless it's already burning a load of oil (piston rings tend to go on these). Has the 12V battery been changed recently? If it's bad it can cause various spurious issues, and I've seen it lead to various mis-diagnoses in the past.
  15. Yes, I've confirmed (via Hybrid Assistant) if you put it in D with the parking brake applied then it does waste battery power as it's trying to drive the wheels, though it does not if you hold the service brake with your foot.