QuantumFireball

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QuantumFireball last won the day on February 19

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About QuantumFireball

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  • First Name
    Aaron
  • Toyota Model
    Prius Plug-in
  • Toyota Year
    2012
  • Location
    Cork

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  1. I've also had an OBDLink LX for a few years and it works great with Hybrid Assistant and other apps. The cheap scanners are fine for just reading fault codes, but for Hybrid Assistant you need something that can reliably provide real-time data in a consistent manner, which is a lot more demanding. I didn't know about the firmware updates, and never use the OBDLink app - must check that out!
  2. How steep and how long is this hill? I, and other owners of the Gen 1 Plug-in have noticed that during a long ascent, the ICE will kick in after a while despite it not meeting the normal conditions (throttle position, SOC, cabin heating, etc.). It may be something to do with temperatures somewhere, or the battery current discharge limit meeting a certain threshold which changes dynamically based on temperatures and other factors. I know of a hill climb near me, about 2.3 km long with a 5% incline, where the ICE will engage during EV mode with only moderate throttle input. I guess the Gen 2 PHV has similar characteristics.
  3. It will start in EV mode whenever there is sufficient charge. However, if you left the climate control on when you last turned off the car, and the temperature is set in a way that requires heat, the ICE will start. If you want no ICE, you need to start the car with the climate control already off. You can potentially do this by going into accessory mode before "Ready" mode, if you forget to turn it off after your last journey.
  4. AGM batteries are a type of lead acid battery, so the two terms aren't mutually exclusive. The traditional type are "flooded" lead acid batteries, but they are rarely described as such.
  5. That sounds the same as my Plug-in - the switches are under the centre console, but the 12V socket is in-between the two. They require reaching a bit but it's never been a big issue for me.
  6. In my Gen 1 Plug-in with aircon and recirc on in Eco mode, it struggles to keep the windows clear. "Eco" mode certainly does reduce the duty cycle of the aircon compressor, and also makes the climate control heating/cooling threshold more lenient. Normally I just set it to Auto, with that also controlling recirculation - when heating it always switches it to fresh air, and I rarely have trouble with the windscreen fogging up even with aircon off, unless it's freezing or very wet weather.
  7. One would hope that coolant leaking all over the place would make the job maybe look a bit too conspicuous. If the coolant pipes aren't in the way of the cat, they're very close by.
  8. As I said previously: The Gen 3 onwards has an exhaust heat recovery system, and going by diagrams (I haven't had a good look physically) it looks like access to the cat is obstructed by this as there are coolant pipes and all sorts around that area. It doesn't look like an easy roadside job to remove the cat.
  9. I'm not 100% certain, but I think the exhaust heat recovery system on the Gen 3 and newer obstructs access to the cat. The Gen 2 is a popular target because access is very easy with minimal tools. Catalytic converters were essentially required on every petrol car sold in Europe from 1993 - and many sold before this had them too. I'm not sure when they became required on diesels, but my '02 Peugeot 406 had one (but no DPF).
  10. I think examples sold in cold climates may have a battery heater, like Canada and Scandinavia, but I'd be surprised if it's available on UK spec cars as we're talking about -30C when that becomes relevant. Any battery will generate heat while being charged, just like your phone does - it's recommended to set your charging timer so it finishes soon before you start your journey, assuming you have a regular commute in the morning.
  11. The displayed range after a full charge is not directly proportional to your battery capacity, it is based on previous journeys and other data. Your efficiency will be down during winter due to lower ambient temperatures. The battery will generate heat while charging, but that's not enough. Li-ion batteries like operating temperatures closer to 20 degrees.
  12. It's stated in the manual that reduction in capacity is expected over time and use, and the warranty also states that this is not covered - unlike other manufacturers (maybe Nissan?) who do state a specific loss in capacity that will be covered by the warranty. I don't think the health check really takes loss of capacity into account. One thing I would suggest is to check your brake calipers are moving freely and lubricate the guide pins (slide pins?) at least every 2 years, especially the rear brakes. I gained nearly a mile in range after sorting out mine, though I had to replace all the rear pins as they were badly corroded. Regarding fuel consumption in its current state: I'd recommend starting the ICE during some higher speed/low traffic section to avoid any unnecessary idling during the startup phase. @altocumulus I'd say your observed reduction in range is down to the change in ambient temperature and road conditions in winter. It should go up again in the coming months. I don't know how you're putting up with no heat up there!
  13. That is the 2ZR-FXE I speak of, and it does, at least up until some point in 2014-2015 - and it would be the same engine in Auris Hybrids of that era.
  14. I hear about piston rings leading to oil consumption all the time with Gen 2's and early Gen 3's from owners in the US, though usually only after they are well over 100k miles if not double. There was a redesign of the piston rings and pistons in the 2ZR-FXE (Gen 3) at some stage, but I'm not sure when this was introduced. Certain other Toyota engines are known for similar issues - some early ZZ engines had serious oil consumption problems (some were replaced by Toyota), and the 4E-FE (1.3 common in the Starlet and Corolla for most of the '90s) are not unknown for burning oil with high mileage.
  15. It sounds to me like it's designed for max 550W, and 2kW will just blow the fuse immediately. Inspecting the fuse/breaker would confirm this if you have access to it, I imagine it's only rated for 2.5-3A. You won't be able to charge any PHEV off of that.