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About Lorc88

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  • Toyota Model
    E120 1.4 vvt-i 3Dr hatchback
  • Toyota Year
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  1. Auris is being dropped, Corolla is back and yes there is a touring version too, no 3door hatch as yet, but a 128bhp (1.2turbo)petrol/hybrid and a 2.0 178bhp petrol/hybrid will be available
  2. Passenger side? I had that go on my 07 hatchback, shaft cost me €100 + €65 to fit it, only thing is though when mine went some of the splines went into the gearbox and that was expensive to replace €500 for reconditioned unit
  3. Do you know anywhere that might sell the SR front lip? And T-Sport Compressor rear bumper insert?
  4. If you still need it check out, DoneDeal.ie or go to Mcg.ie I'm sure you'd find it on either website
  5. Have you tried trc-tuning.com? That car looks like it's Irish, so try ice tronix.ie redpower.ie mcg.ie or as an off chance try DoneDeal.ie that's like buy and sell. If none of the above works try searching on American sites as that model is still fairly popular, last hope would be and use Google translate upgarage.com it's Japanese
  6. Stp boost restorer and fuel injection cleaner, can be found in Halfords as a twin pack for roughly €15-€20 sometimes as tri pack too as the 3rd will clean the cat out too, it does cause the car to run a little lean for about 1 or 2 tanks of petrol, but the results on a MOT or NCT are worth it, diptane will also clean the engine out but I don't think it's as good as STP I left my Corolla sitting for one year and had the same problem, drive the car daily for about 20+ miles and occasionally let her out in 2nd or 3rd to red line. This sorted out my car.
  7. Lorc88


    Have you made sure your steering wheel is straight along with the wheels? I once had a Seat Inca and had a similar problem, when the steering wheel was in position for straight ahead the wheels were slightly turned right, like yourself I changed all bushes, anti roll bars tyres brakes d whole lot only for it to be that the steering wheel wasn't aligned correctly with the wheels
  8. Lorc88

    Car trouble

    Could be a head gasket fail, looking at your picture your car is 2000-2003? The early T-Sport engines were known for oil pump failure, have you maintained your engine correctly over the years? Also drop the sump and look at the oil pick up, if it's clogged or has gunge on it your engine could be completely buggered
  9. If your talking about the pins on the carriers, I only done mine a couple weeks ago, on the front brakes both pins had rubber on them and the pins were identical in every way, I've a e12 3dr hatch 2007 it's a 1.4 linea strata which I think is the same as your t3. I can say from using my brakes, (new discs, pads and reconditioned calipers and new carriers) I've not noticed any un even braking or wear
  10. Would you know if the 2zz-ge throttle body, intake manifold and injectors would be a direct fit to a 4zz-fe motor?
  11. I haven't been on for a while, family issues and other personal things going on, after four trips for the alternator I've finally gotten rid of the flashing battery light on the dash, turned out the repair shop was using Chinese parts, the black plastic on the side of the alternator had no markings the first 3times now it has a few codes and says made in England so no more battery light, as for the idle issue I ran STP octane and boost restorer in the petrol for a week followed by a slightly more than recommended amount of diptane the following week and now she idles at roughly 850/900 rpm, needless to say I feel I may have had a bad fuel line or blocked injector but all seems well now, also I learned to never ever leave a car sitting up for too long as I needed to replace brake calipers and carriers as they siezed up over time. Happily I can report that my Pride and joy is once again roadworthy and putting a huge smile on my face when I drive it. Thanks to everyone who offered me help and advice on this thread I greatly appreciate it, thank you all so very much ☺
  12. I've the alternator back twice now, I've been shown it voltage and amp readings they've assured me that it's working perfectly, the battery when in the car is at its correct voltage, I'll try and change the connector from the car to the alternator to rule that out as being faulty. I'll also check the batteries output to make sure it's doing its job. Your help and advice is greatly appreciated oldcodger.
  13. A garage done the chain, the alternator packed up after one week from the chain being done, as I was driving the symptoms were, power steering struggled and the light came on for that (P/S) quickly followed by (ABS) before the car struggled to continue to stay on then battery light came on and within seconds she stalled and it was game over. Since having the alternator reconditioned the poor idle came about, I fixed this by cleaning the sensor in the air intake and cleaned the butterfly on the carb. I've also replaced a small rubber hose that is near the intake as it was kinked and perished looking. I've cleaned up the battery terminal wires and the earth under the battery tray. I've also cleaned up the small wire that connects to the alternator. As the battery light on the dash is flashing its also not fully illuminating its a dull red, the only thing that happens is the lights hav a small pulse in them and the fan for the air inside the car struggles a bit other than that the car runs fine I've driven it 200 kilometres. When I disconnect the electric connector from the alternator the light comes on strong and upon reconnecting it the light stays out for about 5mins before flashing again
  14. Sadly this is not the case, there's still a fault with the alternator, it's charging the battery but it's behind the flashing light on the dashboard, perhaps it's because it is a reconditioned unit and not an actual genuine Bosch part, I'm going to get an alternator from a salvage yard and see does it turn off the dash lights