Lorc88

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Everything posted by Lorc88

  1. Auris is being dropped, Corolla is back and yes there is a touring version too, no 3door hatch as yet, but a 128bhp (1.2turbo)petrol/hybrid and a 2.0 178bhp petrol/hybrid will be available
  2. Passenger side? I had that go on my 07 hatchback, shaft cost me €100 + €65 to fit it, only thing is though when mine went some of the splines went into the gearbox and that was expensive to replace €500 for reconditioned unit
  3. Do you know anywhere that might sell the SR front lip? And T-Sport Compressor rear bumper insert?
  4. If you still need it check out, DoneDeal.ie or go to Mcg.ie I'm sure you'd find it on either website
  5. Have you tried trc-tuning.com? That car looks like it's Irish, so try ice tronix.ie redpower.ie mcg.ie or as an off chance try DoneDeal.ie that's like buy and sell. If none of the above works try searching on American sites as that model is still fairly popular, last hope would be and use Google translate upgarage.com it's Japanese
  6. Stp boost restorer and fuel injection cleaner, can be found in Halfords as a twin pack for roughly €15-€20 sometimes as tri pack too as the 3rd will clean the cat out too, it does cause the car to run a little lean for about 1 or 2 tanks of petrol, but the results on a MOT or NCT are worth it, diptane will also clean the engine out but I don't think it's as good as STP I left my Corolla sitting for one year and had the same problem, drive the car daily for about 20+ miles and occasionally let her out in 2nd or 3rd to red line. This sorted out my car.
  7. Lorc88

    Wandering

    Have you made sure your steering wheel is straight along with the wheels? I once had a Seat Inca and had a similar problem, when the steering wheel was in position for straight ahead the wheels were slightly turned right, like yourself I changed all bushes, anti roll bars tyres brakes d whole lot only for it to be that the steering wheel wasn't aligned correctly with the wheels
  8. Lorc88

    Car trouble

    Could be a head gasket fail, looking at your picture your car is 2000-2003? The early T-Sport engines were known for oil pump failure, have you maintained your engine correctly over the years? Also drop the sump and look at the oil pick up, if it's clogged or has gunge on it your engine could be completely buggered
  9. If your talking about the pins on the carriers, I only done mine a couple weeks ago, on the front brakes both pins had rubber on them and the pins were identical in every way, I've a e12 3dr hatch 2007 it's a 1.4 linea strata which I think is the same as your t3. I can say from using my brakes, (new discs, pads and reconditioned calipers and new carriers) I've not noticed any un even braking or wear
  10. Would you know if the 2zz-ge throttle body, intake manifold and injectors would be a direct fit to a 4zz-fe motor?
  11. I haven't been on for a while, family issues and other personal things going on, after four trips for the alternator I've finally gotten rid of the flashing battery light on the dash, turned out the repair shop was using Chinese parts, the black plastic on the side of the alternator had no markings the first 3times now it has a few codes and says made in England so no more battery light, as for the idle issue I ran STP octane and boost restorer in the petrol for a week followed by a slightly more than recommended amount of diptane the following week and now she idles at roughly 850/900 rpm, needless to say I feel I may have had a bad fuel line or blocked injector but all seems well now, also I learned to never ever leave a car sitting up for too long as I needed to replace brake calipers and carriers as they siezed up over time. Happily I can report that my Pride and joy is once again roadworthy and putting a huge smile on my face when I drive it. Thanks to everyone who offered me help and advice on this thread I greatly appreciate it, thank you all so very much ☺
  12. I've the alternator back twice now, I've been shown it voltage and amp readings they've assured me that it's working perfectly, the battery when in the car is at its correct voltage, I'll try and change the connector from the car to the alternator to rule that out as being faulty. I'll also check the batteries output to make sure it's doing its job. Your help and advice is greatly appreciated oldcodger.
  13. A garage done the chain, the alternator packed up after one week from the chain being done, as I was driving the symptoms were, power steering struggled and the light came on for that (P/S) quickly followed by (ABS) before the car struggled to continue to stay on then battery light came on and within seconds she stalled and it was game over. Since having the alternator reconditioned the poor idle came about, I fixed this by cleaning the sensor in the air intake and cleaned the butterfly on the carb. I've also replaced a small rubber hose that is near the intake as it was kinked and perished looking. I've cleaned up the battery terminal wires and the earth under the battery tray. I've also cleaned up the small wire that connects to the alternator. As the battery light on the dash is flashing its also not fully illuminating its a dull red, the only thing that happens is the lights hav a small pulse in them and the fan for the air inside the car struggles a bit other than that the car runs fine I've driven it 200 kilometres. When I disconnect the electric connector from the alternator the light comes on strong and upon reconnecting it the light stays out for about 5mins before flashing again
  14. Sadly this is not the case, there's still a fault with the alternator, it's charging the battery but it's behind the flashing light on the dashboard, perhaps it's because it is a reconditioned unit and not an actual genuine Bosch part, I'm going to get an alternator from a salvage yard and see does it turn off the dash lights
  15. Thanks, I'll try this and let you know how I get on with it
  16. It looks fantastic, good engine choices too, will Europe get the same SXE trim as the US version?
  17. Can't wait to see if the Irish copy this, we usually try copy good stuff from the UK but ultimately %$( it up in fantastic fashion
  18. Hi everyone, I have a 2007 Corolla e120 3dr hatchback it's a 1.4 vvt-i The timing chain had stretched and the car struggled for power. As I couldn't afford to fix it I left the car sat up for a year on the driveway. I've now had the timing chain fixed along with new oil and filters and a water pump. A few days later the alternator gave up the ghost do I had it and the battery replaced, (new battery, reconditioned alternator). Now after a few minutes after start up the car idles at 1100rpm and revs up to 1400rpm by itself an then drops off, it does this constantly even after driving it. When I stop at traffic lights I look like a pleb that keeps revving it. Anyone else ever experience this sort of thing? Any help would be greatly appreciated I've attached a video I took, ignore the battery light, this is most likely to be a bad earth point as the alternator does charge the battery. VID-20180326-WA0020.mp4
  19. From what I've been told by some enthusiasts and performance places, my engine can take a maximum of 160hp b4 it starts running into trouble, my aim is to achieve 135-145, a new ecu is definitely on the cards along with a performance fuel pump, I'm not daunted by the huge road ahead of me nor the challenges on it, I appreciate the help/advice and tips from this forum
  20. I picked up a reconditioned Turbo for €250 from a reputable company in Dublin, I'll b dropping out the current 5speed box for the 6speed t-sport box, I'll be looking into a better clutch ideally a twin plate clutch so it's not too heavy, as for the intercooler I've to measure up the space I have and then look at my options. As for just going and getting a t-sport/compressor, there's not many of them in Ireland and when they come up for sale people are looking for far too much and on d flip side of it, to put a 1.8 t-sport on Irish roads is ridiculously expensive particularly when you're under 30, whereas with my 1.4 an all the mods my insurance won't change. Thanks for your help and insight.
  21. Hello to all Corolla drivers/owners, I own a 2007 Corolla 1.4 vvt-i, I am seriously considering modifying it with TD05 turbo, intercooler and K&N cold air intake. The only current modification on the car is a Magnaflow cat back twin exit exhaust system (y-band) fitted by Souhan in Co.Meath (Ireland) I would appreciate all advice, hints and tips on how to achieve this. Please don't suggest an engine swap as this is not a viable option for me. The car in question is below in the picture:
  22. Great list :) I used the castrol website to determine the best oil for my car, 0w30 was recommended I assume this is safe for my 1.4 vvt-i corolla 07 hatch? I've been using this for the last 5yrs replacing the oil every 10thousand k's religiosly
  23. Congrats on the new car :) for your first Toyota the Celica is a great place to start :) I wish u a million happy and safe miles of driving 🚘
  24. I had this issue too, I ended up changing the hid kit a couple of times, u don't need to remove the headlight, space is tight particularly on the passenger side where the battery is, I used a long nose pliers to grab the connection within the headlight (original wire) make sure all your connections are clean and pressed all the way into position, I found that once this is done turn on ur side lights (t10 bulbs) then start ur car before turning on ur dipped lights (H7 bulbs) problem solved, seems to be the driver side suffers a power surge when turning the ignition and causes hid kits to not power the headlight. Let me know if this works for you, to remove your headlight you need to remove the bumper or u can remove the plastic within the wheel arch, this is because there are 3 bolts holding ur headlight in position 1St 2 are easy you'll see them when you open d bonnet 3Rd bolt is a pig because it's awkward and well hidden