mickburkesnr

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mickburkesnr last won the day on June 15

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About mickburkesnr

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    Guru Member

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  • First Name
    Michael
  • Toyota Model
    Toyota Corolla E11 1.3
  • Toyota Year
    1998
  • Location
    West Midlands

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  1. Successful first day commuting! On the way home I stopped off at the petrol station and used their jet wash, only the lance not the mop, and got 2 years worth of crud and dirt off of the car. Also a close up of the wheel in situ. I then hit some of the grey primer bits with a rattle can. Only a temporary thing to keep the wife happy (although, in fairness, scrapping the car would make her the most happy - fat chance!). But it's the first time I've stood back and looked at the car since, well I can't remember. I'm quite chuffed really with what I've got, and it's no where near finished but the idea I had in my head is 90% there really. I've ordered two 13cm 3-way Pioneer speakers and two 10cm 3-way Pioneer speakers which are going to come this week, and I'll fit them over the weekend. They'll match the Pioneer head unit I bought at the weekend (as the JVC unit I had from the Subaru doesn't have DAB, I thought it did). And it'll all match the Pioneer AV stuff I have in the house - I think Pioneer might be my favourite AV brand!
  2. Ok so an update on this. After posting it on friday, I spoke to a mate and he said he was getting his MOT done on the Saturday in Birmingham (so about 14 miles from the house), so I headed down there on a mix of roads (fast and slow) and it passed on emissions - just. But the previous MOT guys had failed to spot a leak on the brake line, so that was picked up but sorted out. Anyway, it has a full MOT and the cleanest MOT it's had in over 10 years. I've done 130 miles on it over the weekend, and this morning driving in to work. I've driven it in the soaking wet, and in the bone dry. I've driven it around town, in the country, and on dual carriageways. It's great to be behind the wheel of it again. The car is pinpoint in the turn ins, doesn't oversteer doesn't understeer. I can go around a roundabout at 30mph and it have acres of grip and the car is planted and balanced. Suspension is a lot firmer especially on the rear because of the new shocks. Only issues are that cone air filter has to go, I need to get the exhaust welded together, and there is an odd knock from the suspension on the drivers side. The air filter does nothing, if anything it's made the car feel completely gutless. The exhaust is also blowing at the join. But when you have like a foot of space under the car and no lift it's going to happen. The knock itself is strange because in the two MOT tests the suspension is solid. There is no play at all on the front or underneath. I may try to tighten the top mounts just to make sure they're tight, as everything under is sorted. I've got to drive it to work all week, so I'll find out more about it that way.
  3. Well, here is Paddy outside the MOT station: And here is the MOT fail sheet. It failed on emissions, down to the lambda. The nearside rear has some play, but after discussing it with the tester we think it's the top mount, so I need to tighten them up. The emissions though really, really annoyed me. I think the threshold is 1.03, and the lowest it got was either 1.04 or 1.05. The traffic was bad round there so I was revving the hell out of it in traffic but no joy. And it also has near enough a full tank of VPower in it. From speaking to a mate, high lambda readings mean either too much air at the intake or along the exhaust. He has a proper lift so I'm going to take it to him, then put it in for an MOT again. Maybe tomorrow, but more than likely next week. Aside from all of that, it drives like a new car. The ride is firmer like a new car, possibly too firm, as there is a knock at the front although all of the suspension is tight as a drum. From reading up on it, it seems like harder poly bushes (which on the front are, racing ones) they can tend to knock a little. Steering feels heavy, but then again the power steering fluid is darker than Guinness so that'll want changing at some point. But he goes, and he stops, and he sounds good. Not chav loud, but there's a good rumble from it. Dissappointed that it didn't pass, especially on something that isn't dangerous, but my homework was marked and a few loose nuts isn't a bad first project.
  4. The car is booked in for a check and an MOT tomorrow afternoon. I've told them that the wishbone bolt needs tightening and just to give it a check. But last night I drove it a little further and that really is the only knock I can hear and it's under me where the bolt was a bit troublesome. The number plate came in the post today, the guys did a grand job on it. The wife is less impressed with her tribute however...
  5. If you look at the belt, is it shiny? If it is, the belt could well be old and should be changed. If it's a dull colour, or has been changed recently, then it could just be something as simple as tightening the belt. But if it hasn't been changed then it'll definitely need changing, as with it squealing its your indication that it should need changing.
  6. I had this 3 times. Just so happens on the 3rd time I got it on without too much of a problem. Like @oldcodger has suggested, you would be well to suspend the gearbox and engine and use the trolley jack to help manipulate it. On my 3rd attempt I used an engine crane, the first two times I used a scaffolding pole and ratchet straps. The key, I think is to make sure your engine is level, and that the gearbox is level too. That's the first part. The second - and you may need a helper now - is that you could/should have a breaker bar on the crankshaft on the other side of the engine, and rotate that while you wiggle the gearbox. This will move the clutch and pressure plate, and while you do that you should wiggle or twist the gearbox. Once it aligns it'll just fall in together. But really do be careful about getting too carried away with it and having your hand in between the engine and gearbox. It hurts! I would also suggest against trying to draw the gearbox in using the bolts. You should only do that once the shaft has made it in to the clutch/pressure plate.
  7. Funny you should ask that! It didn't. Ran out of time due to the rain and a wedding I had at the weekend. But, yesterday I did a few things. I had ordered some bolts from Amazon for the car just to see what they're like. I've fitted them to the front but not the rear. I fitted a rouge bolt to the lower bell housing on the engine side as well. But yesterday the car was dropped off the jacks, and then this happened: The eagle eyed amongst you will notice that the car is no longer on axle stands. The more eagle eyed amongst you will notice that the car is facing the other way. Once I took the stands from under it, I drove it 200 yards down the road and back again. The furthest it's been driven in 2 years. And it was nice! Not at all far enough to enjoy it, but long enough to know if there's anything majorly wrong with it. There is a knock under the drivers feet which is from the suspension bolt I struggled to tighten, and the drivers side wiper goes off the screen. But the brakes, after the new master cylinder, stops as it should I think. The discs are obviously rusty, the pads and discs are brand new, so they need to be bedded in. But all in all, for what it's worth, it's moving and mechanically alright. It's ready for an MOT. I'm awaiting a new rear number plate as the old one broke off (and it's funny, you'll see why soon). Once that comes, which I think it'll be today, I'll fit it and drop it to the garage where I was going to get it MOT'ed. I'm going to get them to give it a check, basically check my homework essentially, and have them sort out the suspension bolt. With all the work I've done, I feel good that (at the moment at least) that's the only job I've outsourced. But I'm happy, not so happy at the clear up I've got to do now emptying the car and sorting out the garage as it's become a tip again, but it's just a bit of paper away from being driven every day!
  8. From memory I think the faceplate clips on while the backing plate screws on to the door.
  9. Yeah I have it booked in for Saturday, but I've another car that needs an MOT anyway so I'll just swap them around and bring the other one instead. I could just unplug the sensor and drive it and have the fan on all the time but then that'd cause problems with the emissions I would think - as the ECU wouldn't know how hot or cold the engine was. Ordered one off eBay this morning anyway. Either way I wouldn't get it until next week even if I went to Mr.T. Will go to a breakers tomorrow and get some proper alloy wheel nuts as well.
  10. Champagne is on ice, as it were. While I was sorting out the boot lid (in terms of paint) I let the car run. Again, the fan didn't kick in, so I checked the gauge and it was near the red. So the engine was turned off after that. I had a look at what could be wrong. I don't think the relay is blown, the fuse isn't blown, and there's no damage that I could see. So I unplugged the temperature sensor from where it sits in the thermostat housing and the cooling fan kicked in. So I'm going to have to change that. On the flipside I'm missing a wheel nut, so I'm going to go to Toyota tomorrow on my lunch break and see if they have a sensor (doubtful) and get a wheel nut.
  11. Nope, it doesn't have OBD2, only the diagnostic port in the engine bay which (I think) is OBD1. In fairness the car was up on jacks, the bonnet up so plenty of air was going to it so it would probably keep the temps down. Plus the top water pipe was hot so I know the thermostat is working, or at least failing open so that's not too bad. I'll book it in for the MOT so it'll have a good run. Like I said, the temperature gauge didn't go above half way (and I know from the time I drove it without coolant that the gauge can go further than that!) so the run will at least give it a good test. Quite excited to drive it now!
  12. Driveshafts were refitted tonight, subframe bolted on, everything but the wheels and the splash guards under the car are now on there. So I started the car and after a shaky start it idled alright and the temperature gauge went from cold to halfway - and never in the 15 minutes the engine was on did the fan kick in. Saw some steam, like a wet patch on the radiator under the radiator cap. I didn't take it off because I didn't fancy getting burnt. Now yesterday I noticed some coolant on the floor, but that was because I didn't screw the cap back on properly so part of me thinks the wet bit is from yesterday. But yeah, it's a bit odd that the fan didn't kick in at the halfway point isn't it?
  13. You should've treated your Carina to a stainless steel exhaust 😉
  14. Can't say in the 8 1/2 years of my Peugeot 107 with the same drivetrain as the Aygo I've had this clunk? Only clunk I hear is when I'm idle and I move from 2nd to 1st and I can hear it. But it's always been like that and I think it's a combination of the linkage and the gearbox really. Nothing that makes you think it's about to blow up. And for the record, hard acceleration I change at about 4,500rpm, normal around town is between 2,500rpm/3,000rpm. I remember reading that the peak torque for these engines are around 3,500/4,000 rpm
  15. It's a 1mm/2mm steel plate that bolts on to the engine and from what I've read on other sites about different engines is that it's used to locate the starter. Yours probably does have it? Anyway, spent the whole of bank holiday monday dropping the gearbox out, realigned this plate, put it back together and Paddy spluttered in to life on the first go - with the help of a battery booster anyway! Got to refit the subframe properly but I'll do that tomorrow. I'll book it in for an MOT for Saturday as well.