Phil T

TOC Supporter
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Phil T last won the day on December 8

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About Phil T

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Philip
  • Toyota Model
    Prius PHEV
  • Toyota Year
    2018
  • Location
    Staffordshire

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  1. Phil T

    PHEV

    Not quiet, they priced matched, THEN they added the vat and fitting, so quite expensive total price. I thought when they quoted me the price, great, get them ordered. When I asked if that was the total it was actually nearer £400 and that may have increased as fitting depended on how easily they went on ! I had mine from Blackcircles, fitted locally at Mr Tyre, there this morning at 8.30, home by 9.30. Great service. They are slightly louder, slight humming, but it does not change over different surfaces like the Toyo's did, over concrete it was drowning out the radio. Bit slippy going, fine coming back, but the temperature had warmed a bit.
  2. Phil T

    PHEV

    Yes there is no real advantage over plain glass unless you keep your valuables in view, and it looks better. I tried for a winter discount on tyres at my garage and the best they would do was matched Blackcircles price plus fitting and vat. So much for matching the competition. I have opted for Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Gen-2 for £269. Michelin Cross climate + were hard to find any in stock or the next few weeks. In the tests they were very close. Im inclined to bin the Toyos, I cant believe anything can be much worse, after reading some peoples comments on their driving behaviour and my own experience.
  3. Phil T

    PHEV

    What happens to those who bought the car based on the brochure specs, but got a pup! When I had a similar problem with a Nissan Xtrail the brochure specified "Privacy glass to the rear and tail windscreen". It came with clear glass in the rear screen. After much argument, the dealer said there was no comeback from Nissan, but was prepared to tint it themselves. I notice on the web that Toyota state specification may differ in your region, so I would imagine Tough Shite, we have a getout! It's a bit like the Toyo tyres they fit. On one German tyre test site I found their stopping distance was 14 metres longer than the best in test. That's longer than a London bus, frightening. And on noise, Toyo have across the range many tyres that drivers complain about the tyre noise, on concrete and course asphalt, I have to turn the radio up loud , other drivers often likening it to a knackered bearing. I frequently spin up the tyre in the wet so have no confidence in them at all, which brings me to the Winter Tyre debate. Geoff. How are you doing with changing your tyres.
  4. Phil T

    PHEV

    At about 25 metres the beam moved about 10-20cm that proved a big difference. At 3 feet you would hardly see any difference. I think it could still go up some more but it's good enough for me now.
  5. Phil T

    PHEV

    Don't they know bends are for practicing your drifting
  6. Phil T

    PHEV

    Oh no it's not. People round here slow for a kink in the road not just for oncoming cars. I thought it was an age thing, apparently not
  7. Phil T

    PHEV

    Auto wipers that need constant adjustment . Ah yes, yet another Toyotism, the rear screen. It's fine at speed, just dont stop! Mind, on the Gen4 I found the wiper was great for a left hand drive, hardly cleared much at all for a right hand drive. Unusual for a Japanese car, that is normally a European modified for right hand drive quirk. As for RainX I found that builds up and yellows, then starts to peel. It looks as though the rear glass is treated like the side front windows to repel water, just need stronger gravity for it to work! Dictionary explanation of Toyotaism. It's reliable for a long time, just does not work as you want it too.
  8. Phil T

    PHEV

    Yet another Toyota quirk, the auto windscreen wipers. On my last Nissan and VW cars that had auto wipers, there was only one setting on or off. When on the wipers would start when there was enough rain to limit visibility through the screen, and would speed up or slow down as and when the rain got heavier or reduced. With Toyota that happens when on the minimum time delay, ie getting more frequent with heavy rain, but less frequent settings hardly have any effect as to the frequency when rain increases, and you still need to switch to fast if it is really heavy rain. If you start off with a dry screen and the wipers on auto, and it starts to rain, I can hardly see out before the wipers start. Is this yet another car fault or is it Toyota's version of how they think it should work.
  9. Phil T

    PHEV

    On my extended run last night the S-flow display never changed. despite trying the dual button with S-flow on or off. In fact the display stayed showing both temperature displays. But the headlights were a great improvement.
  10. Phil T

    Gen 4 Horn change and Plug in

    Some before and after sound clips. Factory.mp3 FIAMM.mp3
  11. Phil T

    PHEV

    I had notice it's not consistent, I will have to take more notice of the settings and report back. I thought it was just me The new horns are now fitted and making much noise. The interior lights tomorrow. Such an exciting weekend.
  12. Phil T

    Gen 4 Horn change and Plug in

    Right Don't forget to replace the black cover, if the clips don't go back in the holes warm the lugs with a hair drier or heat gun (don't melt them !!!) One fat one two warmed ones the lugs contract
  13. Phil T

    Gen 4 Horn change and Plug in

    Right and Left
  14. Phil T

    Gen 4 Horn change and Plug in

    additional photos Left side with better shaped bracket
  15. Tools needed. 12mm spanner, 10mm spanner, something to crimp or solder the connectors, vise mole grips or pliers to bend the bracket, small screwdriver or blade to pop up the clips. Some grease. The Prius has a horn relay and 10A fuse. The original horns are about as loud as a scooter horn and on test draw just over a 3 amps each. The FIAMM's I replaced them with draw 4.5 amps each so should be ok as a straight swap. You are safe to up the fuse rating to 15amp but it shouldn't be necessary. I fitted the FIAMM AM80SX high and low pair, there is little in it between the AM80S combination sound level wise, but they are a little smaller. FIAMM are superior to the offerings from Hella, Bosch, PIAA and Stebel. Stebel's Nautilus air horn IS loud but that draws 20 amps and needs a separate relay, and there are loads of look a likes out there, beware. I have bought all of the other makes and they were either binned or passed on, stick with FIAMM. You need to remove the black plastic radiator cover held in with 7 plastic pop up clips. Push a small screwdriver or blade down under the centre cap, it will pop up and can be lifted out. Once all removed the cover lifts up. The plastic clips push back into the hole and the centre cap pushes back down, don't loose them! The factory horns are easy to see, held in place by a 12mm nut, a ratchet spanner is the best tool to remove them with, when you have loosened them remove the connector. You will see a square hole on the left side looking down on them, push it in and pull the bottom of the plug down. Now remove the nut being careful not to drop it or the horn, as the radiator is close. The factory horn has a small extension bolted to it, leave it on the old horn. The original horns use a locking spade connector (6.3mm) and you will need two short leads make up of a male to female spade (red insulated spades are ideal size for this) for the live feed and Female to ring terminal for the return (the ring needs to fit the 12mm bolt) Both leads about 7 inches long.( If you get horns with only one terminal you do not need the spade to ring lead) The FIAMM's come with a straight bracket, this needs bending into a question mark ? shape (see picture) this will allow the new horn to sit in a similar position and pointed slightly down so any water will run out. Bend the bracket and test fit, when you are satisfied, fit your leads to the horns, grease the connectors, they sit in a lot of weather down there. ACF50 or Waxol or whatever. Also grease the connector on the car and your bolts and nuts. Now bolt your horns to the original car fixing using the 12mm nut,don't forget to put the ring connector on the nut, place the horn, put the bolt in the bracket and offer it up. Three hands help here!! Get the bolt threaded in and before you tighten it push your connector (male spade) into the car connector the male will just push in, make sure it goes all the way in and no part of the spade is bare connector or wire, if it touches the chassis member it will short out. You can zip tie the wire but if it's not too long it will sit in mid air. Tighten up and test, if ok do the other. All working remove any spanners and other tools (count them in count them out), they will rattle and bounce around till they drop out doing all sorts of damage. 1st picture Fiamm AM80SX left AM80S right 2nd Original horn and AM80SX bent bracket. You are aiming to get the new horn about the same height and pointing down a little. This was bent up a little more.