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Mark O

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    RAV4 T180
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  1. Some progress. I have nothing at the brake switch so it suggests a poor connection between the fuse and the switch. The only thing in that circuit is the connector itself. I have a diagram of where the connector is, but it is not at all clear - connector a38 I think. Any help most appreciated as to how to proceed.
  2. It is not clear if I have a fault on the ABS. It is clear however that I have no brake lights, and also clear that if there is a fault there then that affects the ABS warning lights as the shared circuit detects an open line and warning lights come on if there is an open line. I checked the voltage at the pins from the pin across to the negative of the battery, but for sure it could be a poor earth - somewhere!
  3. I have a 2008 2.2 DCAT T180 diesel. One of the best cars I have ever had. Very reliable - sadly now an electrical problem - but I can forgive it that after 7 years or so of trouble free running. I think the engine thing is misplaced. For sure a few folk may have had issues, but in has to be taken in context to the vast majority that have not. Nothing particular to say about it except it does everything pretty well. Personally I would look out for excessive rust underneath, particularly suspension arms and cross members, a smokey exhaust - usually turbo on its way out, knackered shocks, and any DPF issues. I would also bin any horrible run flats and exchange them for proper tyres. Saves unsprung mass also. Rubbish side hinged rear door - for Yanks - and a bit plasticky inside, but other than that a hoot to drive, economical for its size, good in snow and lots of toys - all of which still work.
  4. Perhaps a complex problem so bear with me here please! Essentially the brake lights do not work. I also have the ABS and brake warning lights on at the dashboard. I believe the ABS or VSC - anti skid??? share a circuit with the brake lights, and that when an open line is detected the ABS and brake warning lights come on. I have managed to acquire the fault codes 46 and 49 which seem to indicate that it is brake light fuses, brake light switch circuit, brake light relay, brake switch, ABS/traction control actuator. So trying to proceed logically Fuses 2 x 10A ---OK Bulbs - both OK Brake light switch - OK Brake light/stop light control relay - basic 5 pin relay in box- does not seem to check out. As I understand things, there should be pretty much no resistance between pins 4 and 3 as voltage feed normally comes in from the brake switch to pin 4 of the relay and out to pin 3 and then to the lights. There is actually high resistance or an open line. Aha I hear you say, and therein may lie the fault - BUT- there is only 2V at pin 4 when the brake switch is actuated. I assume - maybe incorrectly - that this should be 12V for the lights? There perhaps should also be 12V at pin 5 - when the ABS energises the relay - again less than 2V. I am confused! I have ordered up a second hand relay ( £2.50 ) so that may answer - I refuse to pay the 100 quid the stealers were asking! If the relay does not cure things, any advice as to where to look next would be most welcome.
  5. Mark O

    Wiper fault?

    Ian Thanks for this - Is this the trim under the seat height - sort of under the level of the seat and to the right - on the frame as you say
  6. Mark O

    Wiper fault?

    Rav 4 08 T180 - Bit of an odd one. Leaving the car overnight, then starting, the wipers won't work. After running about after 10 minutes or so, they kick into action. Linkage is free, fuse looks OK.
  7. Heid Servicing....That does not seem at all bad from Mr. T - especially if it includes the cost of the fluids. May be tempted myself for 130 quid!
  8. "I could live it just being a head gasket which I could fix myself but full engine replacement is crazy" If you can do that, then it suggests you are able to discern a dodgy engine before buying - which in turn mitigates some of the risk. Thereafter, personally I think you would be very unlucky if the engine went bang, and as no-one appears to be able to quantify just what percentage went bang previously, then I would suggest the risk of that happenning is no more than any other similar engine. DPF on mine seems OK - afer 95K. I use decent fuel and force/frig a regen now and then, but I freely admit that replacement is hideously expensive. As you suggest however, there are alternative cheaper measures one can try - and personally I would - before shelling out for a replacement. Fine car, and a fine engine. Excellent low down torque, easy cruising, lots of useful toys. Servicing - decent local independent all the time for me. Far cheaper, far more forthcoming, and I get to poke around underneath.
  9. I have a an 08 T180 which is similar. OBC suggests around 35 for a combination of town and country for my commute, similar on motorways. Of course, that drops away if using for town alone and this time of year certainly sees a further drop. I would suggest the following however. Use decent diesel - Shell also seems good for me and I use the expensive stuff every 3 or 4 fill ups Clean out the EGR and the hard pipe. Check tyre pressures, and test to see if the brakes are not binding. Moderate your driving style. Don't floor it or accelerate uphill. Gently does it. I find that driving in light trainers helps as I then become less heavy footed. The DPF regen/clean can be frigged on mine by keeping it above 3000 rpm in 3rd or 4th for around 15 mins. and simultaneously loading the electrical system - rear windscreen heater, A/C, lights, seat heater on etc. during this time and thereby working the engine hard. You can see resulting successful plume of smoke easily enough from your rear view mirror! Perhaps yours has become overly clogged by not reaching the parameters required during your normal driving. I would agree that manufacturer's mpg figures are practically worthless.
  10. Mark O

    Poor starting

    Ian Thanks for that - useful stuff. I am not completely ruling out the battery, but I would say that on trying to start first time yesterday, the car had done 300 miles the day before - giving ample time for it to charge perhaps. Could it be that the battery is simply not taking charge as it ought to? Employing a charger in these circumstances therefore may not be of much use.
  11. Mark O

    Poor starting

    Oil change 1K ago, EGR cleaned @8K ago, always use the best Shell fuel, 90+K miles total. Even at minus 8 it started fine last week.
  12. Chaps 2008 T180 with smart start has aways started first time every time. Push button, wait a few seconds or so sometimes if cold, crank, then instant start. All fine until a couple of days ago when it began to crank over but no start. If this happens, I simply turn off, try again, and it fires up. However, it is a concern. I don't think it is the battery as the cranking seems healthy. Anyone know any better - glow plugs perhaps? Solutions welcome. Cheers Mark
  13. It is not so much the electric vehicles themselves - though if you have ever taken one apart you will perhaps understand better - it is everything else required to make them a viable means of mass transportation. As aforesaid, I think the issue is something of a red herring in any event, and is simply being used as a vehicle (literally) with which to tax us even more.
  14. You just know what they are softening us up for.....even more tax to pay for the "privilege" of driving those nasty, polluting internal combustion engines of course.....The fact that electric vehicles arguably present a greater environmental threat - how the extra electrical energy required is generated, infrastructure required, use of precious metals in electric motors, disposal of nasty lithium batteries, etc. completely eludes HMG - possibly deliberately - and unfortunately, many of the folk that vote for them. The mantra is electric good, ICE bad, and therefore presents a great excuse for HMG to tax all who drive ICEs as they will have the mandate from thicko Joe Public who knows no better, believes the hype, and simply falls into line unquestioningly.
  15. Mr T actually makes very fine diesel engines. Like many other manufacturers though, reliability and efficiency of the engine is undoubtedly hampered by the ill-thought out legislation relating to the emissions equipment required. In addition, whilst a turbo is a very worthy performance addition, it is also detrimental to reliability. In my experience, turbos have expired in one way or another long before the useful life of the engine.
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