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Mark O

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Everything posted by Mark O

  1. Some progress. I have nothing at the brake switch so it suggests a poor connection between the fuse and the switch. The only thing in that circuit is the connector itself. I have a diagram of where the connector is, but it is not at all clear - connector a38 I think. Any help most appreciated as to how to proceed.
  2. It is not clear if I have a fault on the ABS. It is clear however that I have no brake lights, and also clear that if there is a fault there then that affects the ABS warning lights as the shared circuit detects an open line and warning lights come on if there is an open line. I checked the voltage at the pins from the pin across to the negative of the battery, but for sure it could be a poor earth - somewhere!
  3. I have a 2008 2.2 DCAT T180 diesel. One of the best cars I have ever had. Very reliable - sadly now an electrical problem - but I can forgive it that after 7 years or so of trouble free running. I think the engine thing is misplaced. For sure a few folk may have had issues, but in has to be taken in context to the vast majority that have not. Nothing particular to say about it except it does everything pretty well. Personally I would look out for excessive rust underneath, particularly suspension arms and cross members, a smokey exhaust - usually turbo on its way out, knackered shocks, and any DPF issues. I would also bin any horrible run flats and exchange them for proper tyres. Saves unsprung mass also. Rubbish side hinged rear door - for Yanks - and a bit plasticky inside, but other than that a hoot to drive, economical for its size, good in snow and lots of toys - all of which still work.
  4. Perhaps a complex problem so bear with me here please! Essentially the brake lights do not work. I also have the ABS and brake warning lights on at the dashboard. I believe the ABS or VSC - anti skid??? share a circuit with the brake lights, and that when an open line is detected the ABS and brake warning lights come on. I have managed to acquire the fault codes 46 and 49 which seem to indicate that it is brake light fuses, brake light switch circuit, brake light relay, brake switch, ABS/traction control actuator. So trying to proceed logically Fuses 2 x 10A ---OK Bulbs - both OK Brake light switch - OK Brake light/stop light control relay - basic 5 pin relay in box- does not seem to check out. As I understand things, there should be pretty much no resistance between pins 4 and 3 as voltage feed normally comes in from the brake switch to pin 4 of the relay and out to pin 3 and then to the lights. There is actually high resistance or an open line. Aha I hear you say, and therein may lie the fault - BUT- there is only 2V at pin 4 when the brake switch is actuated. I assume - maybe incorrectly - that this should be 12V for the lights? There perhaps should also be 12V at pin 5 - when the ABS energises the relay - again less than 2V. I am confused! I have ordered up a second hand relay ( £2.50 ) so that may answer - I refuse to pay the 100 quid the stealers were asking! If the relay does not cure things, any advice as to where to look next would be most welcome.
  5. Mark O

    Wiper fault?

    Ian Thanks for this - Is this the trim under the seat height - sort of under the level of the seat and to the right - on the frame as you say
  6. Mark O

    Wiper fault?

    Rav 4 08 T180 - Bit of an odd one. Leaving the car overnight, then starting, the wipers won't work. After running about after 10 minutes or so, they kick into action. Linkage is free, fuse looks OK.
  7. Heid Servicing....That does not seem at all bad from Mr. T - especially if it includes the cost of the fluids. May be tempted myself for 130 quid!
  8. "I could live it just being a head gasket which I could fix myself but full engine replacement is crazy" If you can do that, then it suggests you are able to discern a dodgy engine before buying - which in turn mitigates some of the risk. Thereafter, personally I think you would be very unlucky if the engine went bang, and as no-one appears to be able to quantify just what percentage went bang previously, then I would suggest the risk of that happenning is no more than any other similar engine. DPF on mine seems OK - afer 95K. I use decent fuel and force/frig a regen now and then, but I freely admit that replacement is hideously expensive. As you suggest however, there are alternative cheaper measures one can try - and personally I would - before shelling out for a replacement. Fine car, and a fine engine. Excellent low down torque, easy cruising, lots of useful toys. Servicing - decent local independent all the time for me. Far cheaper, far more forthcoming, and I get to poke around underneath.
  9. I have a an 08 T180 which is similar. OBC suggests around 35 for a combination of town and country for my commute, similar on motorways. Of course, that drops away if using for town alone and this time of year certainly sees a further drop. I would suggest the following however. Use decent diesel - Shell also seems good for me and I use the expensive stuff every 3 or 4 fill ups Clean out the EGR and the hard pipe. Check tyre pressures, and test to see if the brakes are not binding. Moderate your driving style. Don't floor it or accelerate uphill. Gently does it. I find that driving in light trainers helps as I then become less heavy footed. The DPF regen/clean can be frigged on mine by keeping it above 3000 rpm in 3rd or 4th for around 15 mins. and simultaneously loading the electrical system - rear windscreen heater, A/C, lights, seat heater on etc. during this time and thereby working the engine hard. You can see resulting successful plume of smoke easily enough from your rear view mirror! Perhaps yours has become overly clogged by not reaching the parameters required during your normal driving. I would agree that manufacturer's mpg figures are practically worthless.
  10. Mark O

    Poor starting

    Ian Thanks for that - useful stuff. I am not completely ruling out the battery, but I would say that on trying to start first time yesterday, the car had done 300 miles the day before - giving ample time for it to charge perhaps. Could it be that the battery is simply not taking charge as it ought to? Employing a charger in these circumstances therefore may not be of much use.
  11. Mark O

    Poor starting

    Oil change 1K ago, EGR cleaned @8K ago, always use the best Shell fuel, 90+K miles total. Even at minus 8 it started fine last week.
  12. Chaps 2008 T180 with smart start has aways started first time every time. Push button, wait a few seconds or so sometimes if cold, crank, then instant start. All fine until a couple of days ago when it began to crank over but no start. If this happens, I simply turn off, try again, and it fires up. However, it is a concern. I don't think it is the battery as the cranking seems healthy. Anyone know any better - glow plugs perhaps? Solutions welcome. Cheers Mark
  13. It is not so much the electric vehicles themselves - though if you have ever taken one apart you will perhaps understand better - it is everything else required to make them a viable means of mass transportation. As aforesaid, I think the issue is something of a red herring in any event, and is simply being used as a vehicle (literally) with which to tax us even more.
  14. You just know what they are softening us up for.....even more tax to pay for the "privilege" of driving those nasty, polluting internal combustion engines of course.....The fact that electric vehicles arguably present a greater environmental threat - how the extra electrical energy required is generated, infrastructure required, use of precious metals in electric motors, disposal of nasty lithium batteries, etc. completely eludes HMG - possibly deliberately - and unfortunately, many of the folk that vote for them. The mantra is electric good, ICE bad, and therefore presents a great excuse for HMG to tax all who drive ICEs as they will have the mandate from thicko Joe Public who knows no better, believes the hype, and simply falls into line unquestioningly.
  15. Mr T actually makes very fine diesel engines. Like many other manufacturers though, reliability and efficiency of the engine is undoubtedly hampered by the ill-thought out legislation relating to the emissions equipment required. In addition, whilst a turbo is a very worthy performance addition, it is also detrimental to reliability. In my experience, turbos have expired in one way or another long before the useful life of the engine.
  16. Excellent news for VAG dealers and garage mechanics then......Considering the detrimental effect on combustion efficiency and the increase in fuel consumption caused by even a partially clogged DPF (and now a GPF) I think the any net advantage in fitting these abominations is spurious to say the least.
  17. Many manufacturers were encouraged to manufacture diesels by various governments. Not an unreasonable premise as diesel engines are a very efficient form of propulsion and have many advantages over a petrol engine. What governments failed to appreciate was the increasing levels of debatable emissions equipment required of a diesel - notably from the EU - such as DPF, EGR, etc which by fitting to a diesel engine negates many of those advantages over the petrol.
  18. The DPF on this vehicle is much like any other - an utter PIA. Essentially IIRC regeneration takes place when the engine is hot and after a certain amount of running time - which in turn is governed by the ECU. Clearly then, it depends how you use the car, but if predominantly used for short journeys, then the regeneration may not activate, the DPF will subsequently become clogged up quicker than if you used it for predominantly longer journeys, and you may be faced with prematurely large bill for replacing it. However, if used for shorter journeys, there are a few ways to postpone clogging up of the DPF Use the best low sulphur fuel Use a low ash oil Give the thing a blast every week or so - constant 3000 rpm for at least 30 mins with all electrics on should frig the ECU into a forced regeneration. You should see bluish smoke from the exhaust. Certain garages offer in-situ DPF cleaning services when the warning lights of doom appear on the dash. Cannot verify their effectiveness, but may be worth a punt considering the price of a replacement DPF. Pity really as otherwise a fine diesel.
  19. Emission controls are nonsense when they fail to work effectively - which is what happens when EGRs and DPFs become slightly blocked let alone clogged up. They are even more nonsensical when that partial blockage results in increased fuel consumption and thus even more emissions. Besides which, the premise that particulates and NOX are somehow more harmful than the increased CO CO2 and HCs that petrol engines kick out is spurious to say the least. Diesel is easier to refine from crude as it is the heavier fraction. The fact that currently more gasoline is produced from crude is not due to ease of production but supply and demand.
  20. Basically if diesels were not burdened with all the emissions nonsense, then many of the problems seen on the forums would disappear and there would be little or possibly no disadvantage to undertaking short runs - though a good blast now and then would be beneficial, as it would be with a petrol. It should not be the case that drivers should be so penalized in their driving habits when using a diesel - rather they should be encouraged to drive diesels - largely due to the better efficiency, ease of refining, economy, robustness and lower CO, CO2 and hydrocarbon emissions. Yes, particulates are an issue, but it is highly debatable whether their disadvantages outweigh the many advantages.
  21. I wasn't questioning the validity of it, I was questioning why it seemed to be posed as an argument against the comment that there is a preponderance of problems on this forum with diesels.
  22. Then again people only tend to post on a forum when they require help with a particular issue - be it petrol or diesel. One doesn't hear from the owners who don't have issues and who probably far outnumber those who do. If diesels, and petrols, from yesteryear were in today's cars, pollution would be much worse. Not hearing from owners is not helpful. We don't know if they have problems or not. What we do know, is that on the forums, there does tend to be a disproportionately large number of issues with diesel cars - particularly with the ancillary components of the engine which in turn suggests there is an intrinsic issue - which there is. I think the yesteryear comment was perhaps in reference to the reliability of the engine without the troublesome ancillaries rather than a comment about pollution. Today's diesel, even without these ancillaries, is far cleaner than yesteryear's diesel and it is debatable whether EGR and perhaps even DPF are truly effective in combating emissions.
  23. Moot point perhaps but the term "engine" does not normally include the DPF and EGR nonsense - which is why i said what I said! I concede that it normally includes the turbo though. Agreed that older diesels were the way to go. It is a great pity that such an efficient, robust and economical ICE has been strangulated by so much ill-considered opinion.
  24. There is no intrinsic problem with the diesel engine. It is more efficient than a petrol engine by some degree, is not reliant on any separate ignition system and thus far simpler, and is generally far more robust. What kills it is are the ill-thought out pollution control measures introduced over the years by our dear friends in Brussels - particularly EGR and DPF - both of which have spurious benefits, and to an extent, the addition of turbos - which for most of the time are unnecessary.
  25. To consider replacement of the turbo a temporary measure is something of a reductio ad absurdum. Is the entire car thus a temporary measure until a replacement car is purchased? A replacement part - especially like for like - is more accurately considered to be returning the car to original specification, which presents the best - in engineering terms at least - solution to your problem. If you are able to strip the turbo and clean it out, then I would argue that comes a close second to a replacement part in terms of best engineering practice, but probably first in terms of presenting the best overall solution for you - considering the cost of the replacement turbo and your free labour. Purely in terms of best engineering practice, in-tank cleaning agents IMHO are last, Mr Muscle applied via a hose to the turbo third - as even if it does work, the time before failure is very likely to be shorter than the first and second methods. However, for those who have to pay to have the turbo to be stripped and cleaned, it may offer the best solution provided it works albeit perhaps temporarily - as one has to factor in the labour costs of the strip and clean. if looking to reduce carbon build up in future my advice would be to use decent fuel, try and run the car at optimum revs, use a decent low ash oil, and don't switch off immediately after a long run - allowing the turbo to cool by idling for a couple of minutes.
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