cal

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About cal

  • Rank
    High mileage cruiser

Profile Information

  • First Name
    JJ
  • Gender*
    Not Telling
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis 2.0 CDX (LPG Dual fuel) Estate
  • Toyota Year
    2000
  • Location
    Norfolk

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  1. Your Hiace (H100 series) in your model year were available in other engine formats. Provided it is a Jap import, alternative engine choices were: 1KZ-TE Diesel turbo 3 litre auto/manu gear 1RZ-E Petrol 2 litre auto/manu gear 2RZ-E Petrol 2.4 litre auto only Now, the 1KZ-TE units were available in the UK mostly seen on Land Cruiser Colorado range, however other two petrol ones are very rare, to my knowledge, the 2.4 litre was never imported. The so called 'Hiace Power van', the early ones in the UK also came with 2.7 litre petrol 3RZ-E unit. This maybe an option for you if you could find one. However, you will need to have the unit couple with the gearbox for ease of transfer and will also need to do your own research on whether it will fit size wise. Alternatively, you may be able to fit a slightly smaller engine of the same family as the one you have, the 2L-TE diesel 2.4 litre engine which was available on the Hilux range. Another option is to source a second hand engine from Japan from these people. https://kaihosangyo.jp/english/ They may not be the cheapest but you get what you pay for.
  2. The first gen Alphard's fuel tank capacity is 70 litres and Ist's is 45 litre. Hope this helps.
  3. A little trivia... This mandatory requirement for all vehicles in Japan goes back to the times when Japanese cars were primitive and highly unreliable. Cars often stalled at railway crossings and flares were initially introduced to prepare for such instances but later, used for general breakdowns and warning other road users of any hazards ahead as mentioned by FROSTYBALLS. It is an MOT equivalent requirement and without one the car will fail the inspection. In general, there are many railway crossings in Japan and to this very day, I think they are still traumatised by past incidents despite the fact that stalling at the railway crossing is extremely rare. Almost all user handbooks supplied with a new car has a section on procedures if the vehicle stalls in the middle of a railway crossing. At a time when manual gearbox cars were still common, it was often suggested to place the vehicle in highest gear and turn the starter motor without depressing the clutch which allowed the car to move out of the crossing. But obviously today, most cars are automatics over there, this method cannot be used and this fact is clearly stated in bold letters probably aimed at those old skool drivers. Those traditional flares have best before dates on them but like any other, things have moved on and some come with LED flares instead.
  4. Yes, CVT has come a long way since both in terms of durability and performance. I would also like to recommend the petrol version with LPG conversion. LPG is a very good alternative to diesels and can always switch back to petrol with a flick of a switch if you happened to be in the area where you can't fill up.
  5. Well done for locating the relay. Some have a clip like flap where you press to release whilst others you got to wiggle it up and down, right and left, to pull it out. They are generally firm as you can appreciated, it got to withstand the vibration. Good luck.
  6. You should find the engine and chassis number details on the passenger side bottom bit when you open the door. There it should tell you what engine it has. From year 2000 Aug, all UK Avensis petrol engine has switched to VVTi, which is either ZZ series or AZ series engine, both of which are chain driven. Whoops!! I just got your new posting. : ) If your engine number starts with 1ZZ then, it'll be 1ZZ-FE engine which is chain driven. This engine is known for oil consumption once it hits certain mileage so I'll change the oil regularly than specified.
  7. Yes, you're right, in some instance the relay can be repaired. The common one would be a crack in the soldering. Having said that, it might be just as easy to grab a working one from the breakers. In any case, good luck!
  8. Ken, I think your 1.8 Avensis is 1ZZ-FE engine, which would be chain driven.
  9. No, it's not in your face. It's tucked in so you might need to crawl and put your head underneath the dashboard. Having a torch might also help.
  10. Yes, it is kind of behind the fuse box area. You may need to remove the bottom cover of the dashboard, the one which the bonnet release lever is attached to. By the way, the vehicle is RHD right?
  11. I thought you already checked that location as you've mentioned previously... You've obviously checked where I've circled in red in the photo right? It is tucked in quite deep...
  12. Hi, Have you checked behind the glove box where the ECU is? Depending on the model year, some relays have migrated there. From the above you've obviously checked far driver's side next to the accelerator pedal on the wall so behind the glove box is the only place I can think of...
  13. cal

    3s-gte Avensis For Sale

    It's a shame that this Avensis had to end this way... http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=139227
  14. Just saw this on auction site and had to come here to check out what happened, I did recognised it was Ken's motor. Like acstreet, it's been a while since I was on this site.
  15. Yes, this problem is a curse for the Avensis since it was first launched. I am pretty certain that the problem you have is due to warped discs. Warped discs can be cured by either replacing the discs or skimming the discs. However, replacing the discs with another genuine one will only cure the problem for a short while. The problem lies with the hardness of the pads and the quality of the steel. Unfortunately, the quality of steel is not what it used to... Once I was a high mileage driver and I had to go through couple of discs and pads to cure this annoying problem. Some of the discs including the genuine one had to be replaced within the course of 7000 miles. I will recommend replacing the pads and discs with the following; * Pads - Apec pads. * Discs - ADL blueprint discs. This combination seems to work wonders. Apec pads aren't too expensive but softer pads thus kind to the discs. The only drawback I found was it tends to dust a little more. Nonetheless they are good pads. The ADL blueprint discs are very well made with slightly different design to combat heat. So, to get to the bottom of this problem, insist on having the above combination. Hope it gets cured soon!