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Everything posted by tooSavvy

  1. Welcome, from Tyneside m8 2sav
  2. Yesterday I found the car to have a fuel leak. It is the small bore tank return, from the mech pump. Thismorning, I dropped in to A V Taylor, Byker, 9AM... 3ft 3/16" flexi fuel pipe £3.50 2x 12MM screw clamps £1.50 MOT garage @9:15 >> 20min wait +£10 *'xmas fund' £15 and home 👍 Opinions were the old rubber hose was goosed. *and no, not DIY job as I hate fuel up my armpit!! 2sav
  3. ..... hope it was Toyota 🤔
  4. Good little linkkie, here..... For some body parts & wheelarch repair sections. I have not found any of these in other GoogeFu 🤔 2sav
  5. Welcome, friend 😬 Spoken like a man in two minds whether to sell his horse, having heard newfangled 'petroleum' was not easily sourced and then only in small tins from the chemist! I *wonder what happened to grooms?.... *they all drive everywhere now 2sav
  6. So then..... Is this you? Have you figured out any spares/similar pump assy - for another Toyota, about the same production period? 2sav
  7. Hi..... From a 'big bruvv' 2sav
  8. Weyy, gann canny m8... ATB from 'up the road' @Wallsend - Aye, on the Big River 👍 2sav
  9. YaY..... FerPrime BLACK Rust Converter arrived today! I was wondering if I might stretch my tub a little, as my purchase is 500g. "FerPrime Black can be thinned down with water if required, to enable its use in spray equipment. The amount of water that should be added will depend on the type of spray equipment being used." Well.... That makes me feel SO much better 🙂 *a 20% dilution, on my first application [decanted into a narrow neck container] will give me some confidence. 2sav
  10. Is the plastic part (pump assy) leaking = remove part and leak is gone?/or.. Tank is leaking (where pump assy is located) and you need repair to tank?? .... or do you need help getting just a new part/salvaged part. 2sav
  11. Well...... I haven't tried it >> BUT >> the tech description (brush on & leave it!) has got to beat all that Acid/Rise off palava 😵 2sav
  12. .... and dreaming of the 'return of summer'..... THIS >>>>> £9.95 + £3 post Amazon A little dab'll do ya OK.... I'm starting to get a bit paranoid over *potentially slightly 'frilly' nether regions.... I have bodywax/internal preserver but this stuff will be under the floors, sills and all suspension steelwork 😃 2sav
  13. The 'sealant track' profile - in a *perfect world - is to run inside of all the bolt holes punched through the sump tin pan. I imagine the thinking is no oil passing freely into the bolt hole zone/potential leaking up threads.... A good old 'lashing it well on/thick' approach is more than enough** **deffo how I would be doing it 🙂 GR8 going m8 2sav
  14. ...... aye, every 'hopped up/traffic light terrorist' you see has done it in 'WRC Scoobie' blue 😕 2sav
  15. I found this vid... Very interesting the fact we have a 'water jacket link', flowing under the carb to aid warming/anti icing, but [I imagine] should you remove the carb/upgrade, then antifreeze will well up and down into your inlet.... None of the 'fit a Weber upgrade' vids refer to this circumstance, though 🤔 2sav
  16. Quite the spaghetti twizzle, all the old rubber hose. I still have to do under the carb! I have fitted the dizzy cap/leads & rotor. Need to check timing and clean/tune carb...... 2sav
  17. I have now modified the Vac Gauge to suit connection to my Inlet, using std 4mm pipe. I forced a steel nipple into the main body with a piece of old Morris 1000 dizzy rubber elbow (never throw anything away!) Here is the new 4mm red silicone pipe I will re-do my carb and dizzy with (nice tight fit onto the gauge) 2sav
  18. Winkers Sorted **Winnah** 🎱 ..... the bit of tinplated brass that slides across the pips was 'worn bright' = should have a matte tinning finish. The piece from eBay, my MR2 switch slider is mint... So just swapped over and I 'lightly scuffed' the surface of the pips with the edge of my jewellers screwdriver. Re-smeared everything with the excess/clean grease from under the cover and clipped everything back in place. .... sharpie pen mark to keep wheel back in correct spot! The nut was finger tight - likely years of folks heaving out.. Fitters arm crank retighten! NaaPraablem 😉 2sav
  19. My MR2 switch assy arrived today.... And my 19MM socket.... And my Wingnuts 😁 I'm clearing a space to strip it down (carefully) to see what is what with the 'winker' contacts... What these s/hand ones look like and how, hopefully, I might fix/swap 'in-situ' my faulty ones. Like a nice mystery, me.... Bring It On! 2sav
  20. I'm not sure I have a 19mm socket in my box... So bought one for £2 off Amazon. Should arrive around the same time as the Stalk assy. Not at home atm so can't look.... 2sav
  21. Well well well.... Nothing new in the World.... We have [to quote Blackadder] "A Plan".... 2sav
  22. I'm sure one of the car makers used 'nut retained' spherical pins (on the body bracket) not simply welded in. Finding such a piece would allow the Toyota bracket you have to be modified to 'spherical clipon' either end. The devil is always in the detail, nuff sedd 2sav
  23. Just popped for a wiper/turn cluster, on eBay, to lash up a fix to the 'Right Turn Signal' cluster contacts... Attempting to indicate Right has the cowling emit a sound not unlike stick-welding!! When you put the indicator/lights arm forward [full beam] the winker flashes great = No Wear on the pips. I need to strip down the switch and replace (from the spare) a fresh/little used pip contact. Later models have a 'modular' design, with the swich assembly is simply a plug-in c/w arm. Mine (and similar age MR2) have a complete alloy do-nut going around the wheel... So its a strip n scratch about fix.... I forgive it after 27yr 😬 2sav