Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


oilman

Members
  • Content Count

    624
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

12 Good

About oilman

  • Rank
    Guru Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Guy
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    n/a
  • Toyota Year
    Non
  • Location
    Cornwall

Recent Profile Visitors

18,575 profile views
  1. Hi, Chances are the oils never been replaced, you may find doing a service on this should help the cause with your gearchanges. I would go for the Sintofluid FE 75W. Link below for you. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-976-fuchs-titan-sintofluid-fe-sae-75w-synthetic-manual-transmission-oil.aspx Regards Jack
  2. I'm not saying that Toyota don't know what to use in their engines, I'm saying that 5w-30 is listed as an alternative (it might have been added as an alternative after your handbook was printed), that would be sensibly used if the car is burning oil or gets hard use. If your car doesn't burn oil, great, but some do. Cheers Tim
  3. Fair enough, but it also probably lists the 5w-30 as an alternative recommendation. Either is fine to use, but so often people want the cheaper option and it costs more to make a 0w-20 as it takes good quality ingredients to make such a thin oil that still protects well. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-650-0w20-engine-oil.aspx 5w-20 isn't a bad option as it doesn't get cold enough in the UK to need a 0w oil and it will be the same as a 0w-20 when hot. Also, it's becoming more of a popular grade now, so better pricing than the 0w-20. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-651-5w20-engine-oil.
  4. Hi, We recommend going with the 5w30 as you'll find with the 0w-20 or anything between will burn through it quite quickly, options are listed below. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-653-5w-30.aspx The best ones there are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Motul 300V, Mobil ESP, Castrol Edge, Shell Helix Ultra ECT, Millers XF, Fuchs GT1 and Red Line, but the Motul Eco-Energy, Mobil Super 3000, Shell Helix HX7 AF/AG and Fuchs XTR are good cheaper alternatives. Cheers Jack
  5. Thanks for the mention and kind words. Realistically, you can get away with a lot of different oils in there - my mother in law's 107 was using a 10w-40 as it was knackered burning loads of oil, if she used a 0w-20, it would have used as much oil as fuel. My data lists the Aygo as using a 5w-30 up until 2014, then 0w-20 for the 2014 onwards models, but also lists a 5w-30 as an alternative recommendation for them. Bob, I would stick with a 5w-30. It's the standard grade, it's well proven in that engine, it's easily available and relatively cheap (depending on what you go for). 0w-20
  6. I generally wouldn't use a flushing product unless the engine is a really mess with a lot of sludge. The detergents in a basic oil should clean it out fairly well and be a lot more gentle on the engine. Cheers Tim
  7. Hi It's fine to use a mineral oil to flush it, it's not in there long enough to be an issue. If it was me, I'd put it in, get it warm, leave it overnight to give the detergents time to work, then get it warm the day after and drain it. Cheers Tim
  8. Hi In most cases with a modern engine, a 0w is fine in place of a 10w, but in something older, like a ST205, or where the engine is worn or there it's a forged build (meaning the tolerances are larger), they can be quite loud and rattly on start up. Also, there aren't many 0w-40 oils and the UK doesn't get cold enough to need a 0w, so usually, I'd recommend a 5w-40 over a 0w-40. Cheers Tim
  9. Engine Oil Viscosity Viscosity is the most misunderstood aspect of oil and yet it is the most important. Viscosity is the force required to shear (break) the oil at a certain speed and temperature. Oils work because they have viscosity; the drag of a rotating part pulls oil from a low-pressure area into a high pressure area and “floats” the surfaces apart. This is called “hydrodynamic lubrication” and crankbearings depend on it. Oil must be capable of flowing at low temperatures, so that it gets around the engine in a fraction of a second at start-up and must protect engine components at hi
  10. I had a look earlier and couldn't find anything that would cover both cars, so you'll need a different oil for each car. It may cost a little more to have different oils, but it costs a whole lot more for a blocked DPF. The Ford 913B spec that you mention the Morris oil meets is a fairly standard Ford spec that suits most of their cars since about the late 90s. It's quite different to the 934B spec that the Jag needs. Cheers Tim
  11. Hi Either of these is fine for the Jag, it takes a Ford 934B spec oil. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-1300-wss-m2c-934-b.aspx And any of these are fine for the Rav4 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-791-acea-c2.aspx All of the oils above are good oils, so go with any brand/price preference that you have. Cheers Tim
  12. Hi American forums by any chance (or perhaps it was a UK forum, but with info based on what someone has seen on a US forum)? As far as I know some of the oils over there differ from the European variants and from what I've been told before, the Edge is a group III oil in the US. To my knowledge there are no 0w oils that are group III based, they are all group IV or a blend of group IV and V. To be a genuine synthetic, an oil doesn't have to be ester based, PAO (group IV) oils are genuine synthetics. Basestocks are classified in 5 Groups as follows: Group I These are derived from petroleum and
  13. Hi Castrol Edge and Mobil 1 ESP are genuine synthetic oils, unless something has changed and we have not been told. Castrol Magnatec and Mobul Super are the hydrocracked oils. Cheers Tim
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership