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  1. Hi, Chances are the oils never been replaced, you may find doing a service on this should help the cause with your gearchanges. I would go for the Sintofluid FE 75W. Link below for you. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-976-fuchs-titan-sintofluid-fe-sae-75w-synthetic-manual-transmission-oil.aspx Regards Jack
  2. I'm not saying that Toyota don't know what to use in their engines, I'm saying that 5w-30 is listed as an alternative (it might have been added as an alternative after your handbook was printed), that would be sensibly used if the car is burning oil or gets hard use. If your car doesn't burn oil, great, but some do. Cheers Tim
  3. Fair enough, but it also probably lists the 5w-30 as an alternative recommendation. Either is fine to use, but so often people want the cheaper option and it costs more to make a 0w-20 as it takes good quality ingredients to make such a thin oil that still protects well. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-650-0w20-engine-oil.aspx 5w-20 isn't a bad option as it doesn't get cold enough in the UK to need a 0w oil and it will be the same as a 0w-20 when hot. Also, it's becoming more of a popular grade now, so better pricing than the 0w-20. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-651-5w20-engine-oil.aspx Cheers Tim
  4. Hi, We recommend going with the 5w30 as you'll find with the 0w-20 or anything between will burn through it quite quickly, options are listed below. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-653-5w-30.aspx The best ones there are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Motul 300V, Mobil ESP, Castrol Edge, Shell Helix Ultra ECT, Millers XF, Fuchs GT1 and Red Line, but the Motul Eco-Energy, Mobil Super 3000, Shell Helix HX7 AF/AG and Fuchs XTR are good cheaper alternatives. Cheers Jack
  5. Thanks for the mention and kind words. Realistically, you can get away with a lot of different oils in there - my mother in law's 107 was using a 10w-40 as it was knackered burning loads of oil, if she used a 0w-20, it would have used as much oil as fuel. My data lists the Aygo as using a 5w-30 up until 2014, then 0w-20 for the 2014 onwards models, but also lists a 5w-30 as an alternative recommendation for them. Bob, I would stick with a 5w-30. It's the standard grade, it's well proven in that engine, it's easily available and relatively cheap (depending on what you go for). 0w-20 is designed to give a potential fuel economy increase, but the increase in fuel economy by reducing viscosity is generally pretty small. It's also quite a thin oil, so there is the potential that it will burn off relatively quickly and as 0w-20s are often quite expensive and can be a pain to get hold of, it's not that convenient. Cheers Tim
  6. I generally wouldn't use a flushing product unless the engine is a really mess with a lot of sludge. The detergents in a basic oil should clean it out fairly well and be a lot more gentle on the engine. Cheers Tim
  7. Hi It's fine to use a mineral oil to flush it, it's not in there long enough to be an issue. If it was me, I'd put it in, get it warm, leave it overnight to give the detergents time to work, then get it warm the day after and drain it. Cheers Tim
  8. Hi In most cases with a modern engine, a 0w is fine in place of a 10w, but in something older, like a ST205, or where the engine is worn or there it's a forged build (meaning the tolerances are larger), they can be quite loud and rattly on start up. Also, there aren't many 0w-40 oils and the UK doesn't get cold enough to need a 0w, so usually, I'd recommend a 5w-40 over a 0w-40. Cheers Tim
  9. Engine Oil Viscosity Viscosity is the most misunderstood aspect of oil and yet it is the most important. Viscosity is the force required to shear (break) the oil at a certain speed and temperature. Oils work because they have viscosity; the drag of a rotating part pulls oil from a low-pressure area into a high pressure area and “floats” the surfaces apart. This is called “hydrodynamic lubrication” and crankbearings depend on it. Oil must be capable of flowing at low temperatures, so that it gets around the engine in a fraction of a second at start-up and must protect engine components at high temperatures without evaporating or carbonising and maintain adequate (not excessive) oil pressure. Many people think that the thicker the oil, the better the protection, but if the oil is too thick, it will not flow properly, leading to reduced protection. The numbers on every can of oil indicate its performance characteristics when new but there are many misconceptions on what these numbers actually mean. For multigrade oils you will see two numbers (for monograde oils only one). The first is followed by a “w” and is commonly 0, 5, 10, 15 or 20. The second number is always higher than the first and is commonly 20, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The first and second numbers ARE NOT related. The “w” number (0, 5, 10, 15 or 20) When multigrade oils first appeared, a low temperature test called “w” (meaning “winter” not weight) was introduced. Using a “Cold Crank Simulator", the test measures the oils ability to flow at low temperatures. ALL oils are THICKER at low temperatures than at high temperatures but the lower the “w” number, the quicker the oil will flow at low temperatures. The second number (20, 30, 40, 50 or 60) This number is known as the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) number and is measured in “Centistokes” (cst) at 100C. Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the thicker the oil. An oils cst at 100C determines its SAE rating within the following parameters. SAE 20 = 5.6 to less than 9.3cst SAE 30 = 9.3 to less than 12.5cst SAE 40 = 12.5 to less than 16.3cst SAE 50 = 16.3 to less than 21.9cst SAE 60 = 21.9 to less than 26.0cst ALL oils labelled 40 must fall within the SAE parameters at 100C so everything from a monograde 40 to multigrade 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-40 or 20w-40 are approximately the same thickness at 100C. Some oil companies label oils as SAE 35, 45 or 55, but as you can see from the above figures, there isn't a SAE 35, 45 or 55. This "could" be because they are approximately on the boundary of the two grades, but as we don't deal with any of those I can't really comment further. Summary Cold start. A 5w-40 will flow better than a 10w-40. A 10w-50 will flow better than a 15w-50 A 5w-40 is the same as a 5w-30 At operating temperatures. A 10w-50 is thicker than a 10w-40. A 15w-50 is thicker than a 5w-40 A 0w-40 is the same as a 10w-40 If you look above, you will see that the figures quoted do not indicate at all as to whether the oil is synthetic or mineral based... Well except for 0w oils as synthetic PAO basestock is required to acheive this viscosity. Generally the oil you use should be based on the manufacturers recommendation found in the owners manual, but then modifications, climate and the type of use can affect that recommendation. If you are unsure of what is the correct recommendation for your car and would like to know more please contact us here oilman@opieoils.co.uk With thanks to John Rowland of Fuchs/Silkolene Cheers Tim and the Opie Oils team
  10. I had a look earlier and couldn't find anything that would cover both cars, so you'll need a different oil for each car. It may cost a little more to have different oils, but it costs a whole lot more for a blocked DPF. The Ford 913B spec that you mention the Morris oil meets is a fairly standard Ford spec that suits most of their cars since about the late 90s. It's quite different to the 934B spec that the Jag needs. Cheers Tim
  11. Hi Either of these is fine for the Jag, it takes a Ford 934B spec oil. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-1300-wss-m2c-934-b.aspx And any of these are fine for the Rav4 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-791-acea-c2.aspx All of the oils above are good oils, so go with any brand/price preference that you have. Cheers Tim
  12. Hi American forums by any chance (or perhaps it was a UK forum, but with info based on what someone has seen on a US forum)? As far as I know some of the oils over there differ from the European variants and from what I've been told before, the Edge is a group III oil in the US. To my knowledge there are no 0w oils that are group III based, they are all group IV or a blend of group IV and V. To be a genuine synthetic, an oil doesn't have to be ester based, PAO (group IV) oils are genuine synthetics. Basestocks are classified in 5 Groups as follows: Group I These are derived from petroleum and are the least refined. These are used in a small amount of automotive oils where the applications are not demanding. Group II These are derived from petroleum and are mainly used in mineral automotive oils. Their performance is acceptable with regards to wear, thermal stability and oxidation stability but not so good at lower temperatures. Group III These are derived from petroleum but are the most refined of the mineral oil basestocks. They are not chemically engineered like synthetics but offer the highest level of performance of all the petroleum basestocks. They are also known as “hydrocracked” or “molecularly modified” basestocks. They are usually labelled/marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and make up a very high percentage of the oils retailed today. Group IV These are polyalphaolefins known as PAO and are chemically manufactured rather than being dug out of the ground. These basestocks have excellent stability in both hot and cold temperatures and give superior protection due to their uniform molecules. Group V These special basestocks are also chemically engineered but are not PAO. The main types used in automotive oils are diesters and polyolesters. Like the group IV basestocks they have uniform molecules and give superior performance and protection over petroleum basestocks. These special stocks are used in all aviation engines due to their stability and durability. Esters are also polar (electro statically attracted to metal surfaces) which has great benefits. They are usually blended with Group IV stocks rather than being used exclusively. Cheers Tim
  13. Hi Castrol Edge and Mobil 1 ESP are genuine synthetic oils, unless something has changed and we have not been told. Castrol Magnatec and Mobul Super are the hydrocracked oils. Cheers Tim
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