IanML

This is the remote entry programming I used successfully with my Rav4: REMOTE/CENTRAL LOCKING Procedure: 1. Start: Driver's door open and unlocked. Key not inserted in the ignition. 2. Insert programmed master key in ignition and then remove it, without turning it. 3. Do the following with the driver's door: shut, open, shut, open, all within 40 secs. 4. Insert key in ignition and then remove it, without turning it. 5. Repeat step 3. 6. Close driver's door. 7. Insert key in ignition 8. Turn key from Lock to On and back to Lock with a 1 second interval. The number of times you do this will select the desired programming mode: Once for ADD key, twice for REWRITE all keys, 3 times for CONFIRMATION, 5 times for PROHIBITION. 9. Remove key from ignition. 10. As verification of mode selection (except in Confirmation mode), the electric door locks will lock and unlock a number of times corresponding to the mode chosen in step 8. (If Confirmation mode is selected, the doors will lock/unlock a number of times corresponding to the number of remote controls programmed into the system.) 11. For ADD and REWRITE modes: within 25 seconds after the locks have confirmed the selected mode: (11a) Hold down the LOCK button on the new remote control whilst at the same time pressing UNLOCK 5 times. (11b) Release and press LOCK once. (11c) if the procedure has been performed correctly, the door locks will go from lock to unlock. If not, start from 1 again. (11d) To enter additional remotes, repeat from step (11a). 12. Open driver's door to complete the procedure. Quite a tedious procedure but I reckon the best way is to read and learn the process so you can complete all actions within a matter of a few seconds - any delay will 'time-out' the procedure.

If we were talking about the alternator, I'd readily agree, but the starter has such a low duty cycle that I question whether it would be a problem in the absence of any other starting problem.

It's not too surprising, if the 11.8 miles started with the battery charge high and ended with it low. These "tests" are only valid if the battery charge were at the same state at start and finish.

The other services fed by the Dome fuse are the map light, the ignition key cylinder light, the boot light and the lamp on the dash which indicates whether a door is open.

The dome light is the interior light. It could be water ingress (do you have a sunroof?) Open it up and inspect for water ingress. Thoroughly clean and dry (iso-propyl alcohol aka propanol is good for that). With everything clean and dry, measure leakage again.

I have the Toyota Techstream software and suitable cable to plug into the car's OBD2 socket (bought it on eBay). That should give some indication of the nature of the fault.

It sounds like the radio receiver of the keyless function may be defective.

You would expect the hybrid advantage to predominate if you do a lot of stop/go town driving - the energy recovery from decelerating and operating the engine mainly as a generator at best rpm. If you do mainly long motorway trips, do not expect much advantage.

There may be a leak from the exhaust manifold gasket. It is normal for the idling revs to be raised when the aircon compressor is running. What rpm does the tachometer show when the engine is warm and the aircon is on?

Further thought... If you think it is not using 1st or maybe 2nd, try driving off from rest with the transmission shifter in L, move it to 2 at about 2500 rpm, then D (with the overdrive to off), then overdrive on. Did you get four shifts as evidenced by the rev counter? If not, that would definitely point to a transmission problem.

Have a look at this thread. Apparently the TRC can come on for a variety of reasons not connected with traction control. I'd advise you read the fault code(s).

I live in Jersey, so its pretty well all local stop/go stuff - five miles is a long run! I get about 22 in winter and 25 in summer, but as the miles/month are very limited, it doesn't make a bit dent in the wallet. You haven't mentioned service history, but things I'd check are spark plugs and air filter. Mine is pretty sprightly if the throttle is booted, so yours could be out of tune. As for as the clonking in reverse - is the transmission fluid up to the mark, and when was it last changed?

Doesn't say why 4 hours to reboot! Even a Windows 10 update is faster than that.

Before you pay for new shocks, why not just remove the current ones and see if that restores the level. If it does not, it's not the shocks.

It will adversely affect the 4x4 if the center diff is locked (assuming your RAV4 has one - mine does not) and the tyres are not the same outside diameter. Nothing else that I know of.