IanML

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IanML last won the day on October 23

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About IanML

  • Rank
    Guru Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Ian
  • Toyota Model
    RAV4.2 XTR 2 litre VVTi Auto
  • Toyota Year
    2005
  • Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Interests
    Literature

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  1. IanML

    2005 XT5 Advice

    My 2005 petrol auto does 24-26 in Jersey, which is mostly slow driving, with a fair bit of start-stop, and lots of short journeys, a bit less in Winter. If I drive very gently, I can stretch it to 27-28 in warm weather. For the journeys you described, I would expect at least 32 in a manual in warm weather.
  2. The most likely cause is the self-parking switch in the motor. Try for a replacement motor from a breaker.
  3. I think ICE hybrids (both types) are just a temporary stop-gap on the road to full electric, which will predominate as charging facilities multiply and battery technology and costs improve. For long distance use, I expect hydrogen fuel-cell to come into its own, and we may even see hybrid fuel-cell/battery models.
  4. I suggest you get prices from Parts King (Toyota dealer), and then compare with Partsouq (Internet dealer in Dubai)
  5. Was that settings guide from the Toyota UK site? If it was from the US site, it may not apply. Toyota seem to use different key/alarm designs for the US.
  6. If I didn't already have mine, I would go for the 2nd on the list. I agree the petrol is a better prospect, because of reliability and repair costs of the diesel.
  7. It sounds like a short to earth on either the wiring or one of the bulbholders. A rare alternative is a short within one of the bulbs - check this by removing all the bulbs and replacing them one-by-one, checking the fuse each time. If the fuse blows before any have been replaced, it's the wiring, otherwise it's the bulb you just replaced. You can confirm a wiring/bulbholder short by removing the fuse when the bulbs are removed, and measuring the resistance between any of the positive bulbholder terminals and earth. Test with the light switch on and off. If the short vanishes with the switch off, the short is located between the fuseholder and the switch (could be in the switch itself). If it doesn't vanish, you have to break the circuit down branch-by-branch to locate the offending point.
  8. Now one begins to see the advantages of a plug-in hybrid. Just had a thought - with a PHEV, it should be possible to programme it to pre-heat the cabin in the morning. And if it's below zero, heat the windscreen, back windows and mirrors if needed. Just unplug and go!
  9. The shocks don't set the height - that is done by the springs. Chances are one of the rear springs is not correctly seated (top or bottom, but probably the bottom). Probably all it needs is to jack the car up enough to remove the weight from the spring on the high side, than waggle/rotate it a bit and you should be able to feel it shift into place.
  10. I don't know that it's the same noise, but I had something that turned out to be rusted covers over the rear brake disks. They rot and eventually fall off. They are not necessary, and can be removed (they are attached to the handbrake drums so very expensive to replace, and not worth it.
  11. Remove each fuse in turn and test; check for signs of overheat, e.g. discolouration of the metal contacts.
  12. I doubt it will work as well, because the engine will not be doing sufficient work to get the temperatures up to burn off the combustion products which are causing the issue. I would make an appointment for an MoT at a suitably distant garage, and do the necessary as you drive it there. It will need the trouble code cleared to extinguish the lamp, and the Italian tune-up should prevent it returning.
  13. The problem does not have to be the gauge. The transmitter in the tank is a float on the end of an arm. That may be defective.
  14. I had exactly the same, and was advised that it was caused by an excess of very gentle driving, so I gave it an "Italian tune-up" by driving it for 5 or 6 miles in 2nd gear at 3 to 4,000 rpm. Problem solved - see this thread.
  15. The keys have transponders in them, which reply to interrogations transmitted by the car. The key which has stopped working will be due to a transponder problem. Either the transponder itself has developed a fault (perhaps the old battery has leaked and damaged the electronics), or the car has "forgotten" that key, which can be fixed by reprogramming the car - see here. It would be best to fix the issue, so you would not be reliant on a single key.