IanML

I doubt it will work as well, because the engine will not be doing sufficient work to get the temperatures up to burn off the combustion products which are causing the issue. I would make an appointment for an MoT at a suitably distant garage, and do the necessary as you drive it there. It will need the trouble code cleared to extinguish the lamp, and the Italian tune-up should prevent it returning.

The problem does not have to be the gauge. The transmitter in the tank is a float on the end of an arm. That may be defective.

I had exactly the same, and was advised that it was caused by an excess of very gentle driving, so I gave it an "Italian tune-up" by driving it for 5 or 6 miles in 2nd gear at 3 to 4,000 rpm. Problem solved - see this thread.

The keys have transponders in them, which reply to interrogations transmitted by the car. The key which has stopped working will be due to a transponder problem. Either the transponder itself has developed a fault (perhaps the old battery has leaked and damaged the electronics), or the car has "forgotten" that key, which can be fixed by reprogramming the car - see here. It would be best to fix the issue, so you would not be reliant on a single key.

The plip key may need a functioning battery to make the immobiliser transponder work.

Not familiar with your model, but older design headlamps move the beam left and down by the pattern in the glass. If this is your type, and the problem is only the nearside, compare the pattern to the offside. If they are "mirror-image", the nearside has a LHD headlamp fitted. If you think this is unlikely, it isn't. I had a SAAB which had two LHD headlamps fitted The dealer was in denial at first, but I made him compare to others in the showroom, and SAAB paid for RHD replacements..

Afaik there are no manuals for programming the keyfobs. Toyota expect you to hand the problem to the dealer, but this is not necessary. Independent car locksmiths can do the job, or you can DIY. You will find the information you need in the links provided here.

And I take yours. It arrives tomorrow, so fingers crossed 🙂

Well, that's disgraceful - the Toyota dealer in Jersey quoted me £56, as I said. So I saved, but in the UK, I would not.

Here you go: link

In Jersey, I'd pay the 5% sales tax if the consignment was more than £240 incl carriage, so in this case, none. In UK I'd pay 20% VAT plus £10 clearing, so about £54 in all, But the UK cost, incl. VAT would be nearly £78. Check If you'd care to, the part no is 75722-42020

Had an argument with a stone pillar yesterday. I now need a new moulding for the rear door (the one which follows the wheel arch). I tried the local (Jersey) Toyota dealer - £56 plus sales tax of 5%. Would be a lot more in UK because VAT is 20%. I then tried eBay - local offerings much the same, plus delivery costs, but Partsouq in the UAE for only £36 including Fedex delivery (genuine Toyota part). The actual cost of the part was only £19!!! Why pay more?

Try swapping the plugs ,etc around to see if the problem migrates with the move. Otherwise, I'd suspect the EGR.

Ouch 🤯🤯 How will they fix that with self-driving cars, I wonder?

On the contrary, If my car had radar CC and the situation called for it, I would be very pleased to use it, provided the autonomous acceleration function were disabled. I think it should be an option to disable it, using either one of the "hokey-cokey" methods, or maybe with Techstream.