IanML

Thanks!

That bonding agent sounds good. What's it called?

Does the symptom change if recirculation is selected?

I wonder if it's deliberate? I have known some cars to have REDUCED air inlet pressure at higher speed. It sounds improbable, but poor aerodynamic design can result in the airflow creating suction at the air inlet. Rather than redesign the body, maybe they attempted a fix in software.

My not so fond memories include my Rover 105R with starting handle. Standing ankle deep in slush with snow falling in Northumberland, trying to start the b....y thing, because the battery had gone flat, because the voltage regulator had "gone funny". Luckily it did eventually start (without writing my thumb off!), and I then learned how to adjust the VR - it wasn't how it stated in the service manual 😬 And my Dad's 1936 Studebaker, with vacuum operated wipers. Just don't expect a clear screen if you're climbing a hill.

Can you turn the camera upside-down?

Hakuna Matata 😀

That'll be it 😳 In my defence, the last time I did it was on an Datsun Cherry, and that didn't need sanding, the metal was exposed. Thanks !

Most of the heater tracks in my HRW do not work. It's very hard to spot the breaks, and my attempts at repair with conductive paint have been unsuccessful - maybe I was not treating the actual breaks. Is there anything I can do, short of having the window replaced?

Good to hear 👍

Thanks - worked this morning 😎

Is that the right number - doesn't work for me?

Try resetting the system by disconnecting the car battery for say 10 minutes.

Judging by the number of posts on gearbox and clutch issues, and the lack of posts on auto box issues, I'd think it's very reliable. I believe it's made by Aisin-Warner, and their boxes are used in huge numbers in North America (where very few drive a "stick"). Mine never misses a beat. I'd say that, provided the fluid is clean and the box does not overheat, it will probably outlast the car.

Nice