IanML
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The risk arises only if a very old "non-intelligent" charger is used. Modern chargers, such as a CTEK or NOCO are perfectly safe, as they monitor the battery state, reduce the charging voltage accordingly as the charge approaches the 100% mark and stop charging when it gets there. I use a CTEK MSX5, and have never had a problem.
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Paraffin, I understand. Wear rubber gloves!
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Maybe the EGR needs a clean?
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Toyota do keep computerised records. Of course, they are only updated if the servicing was done by a Toyota dealer.
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So I would think.
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I wonder if that wire could be from a current sensor, which is used to shed the EV charging load if the total load is approaching the premises supply limit?
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Out of interest, in which part of the supply chain was the open circuit?
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Well, my theory is a broken ball in the CV joint. When the torque being transmitted reverses (i.e. when you brake) the joint is jammed and can no longer allow the rotation. When you manipulate it, the broken part moves into the correct position, so it's ok till the next time.
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Damaged CV joint?
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The box works perfectly (but I haven't created an earth fault to test it!). You just hear the relay click when it powers up. I haven't heard a hum. Maybe the mounting has an effect? Mine is firmly screwed to a massive wooden garage door frame (mounted inside the garage).
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Yes. I was lucky to find that my consumer unit had a free double width space to take the required RCBO, so the installation was straightforward. I did not want to mess around with an earthing rod, so I wired via a Matt:e box, which detects earth faults and opens the circuit as required.
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I have some sympathy with that view. My absolutely basic EVSE (the only control is a rotary switch to vary the charging current) just works. I don't need the bells and whistles. If anyone is interested, it's a QUBEV. I gather current production has an internal dip switch setting, instead of the rotary control.
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It isn't always the EVSE. I had a problem, which turned out to be that the Type 2 socket on the EVSE required one of the pins of the cable plug to project more than it did. I could not discover what the design spec for that parameter is, so I can't say whether plug or socket is at fault, but I was able to open the plug and "engineer" a greater projection, and haven't had a problem since.
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Sounds right to me.
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Was the glass roof at the front removable?
