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Gerg last won the day on July 18

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About Gerg

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    Auris Hybrid
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  1. I don't know the trim specifications of the new Corolla or about the mechanics, so I'm guessing some of this:- Does the 2.0 come with a safety spare that the 1.8 doesn't have as standard ? That's 15+ kg extra, if the 1.8 doesn't have a spare wheel. The engine will need an exhaust that flows 50% more gas, so that'll be bigger. Also the radiator and cooling system must be upscaled for 50% more (potential) heat capacity. The rest of the transmission beyond the electric motors will be stronger. The inverter will probably be slightly bigger. The engine is direct and indirect injection, so doubling up of some components. The direct injection engine will have the under-bonnet sound absorbing mat, and maybe more soundproofing elsewhere as the 2.0 only comes in higher trim levels, doesn't it? And more electrical equipment as standard on the higher trims? With the dual (port and direct) injection, Toyota might have managed to avoid fitting a petrol particulate filter in the exhaust system, but if they haven't then more weight added here. The brake rotors, calipers and driveshafts will likely be larger. The 1.8 weight *might* be quoted with the smallest available wheels fitted, but the smallest wheels on the 2.0 will be bigger! Perhaps 10+ kg here. I think I have read somewhere that the 2.0 does have a bigger battery, it would make sense, otherwise the battery will presumably have to work harder in a higher output 'system', so the electric range would be less and the battery life shortened if it was the same size as the 1.8. 125 kg does seem quite a lot of extra weight.
  2. Just to add to the other responses, my 3 year old Techstream cable also shows exactly the same K and L errors on those 2 pins when the test is run (I returned my first one and bought a different brand when it failed this test, but the next one was the same!), but it works perfectly on our 2013 model cars. I think the early OBD technology worked over K-line protocol, which was a slower, serial method that was replaced by the Canbus protocol around 2001 onwards, (depending on the car and manufacturer?). For what it's worth, on our 2001 Corolla, our Techstream cable is completely useless, although its eBay listing specifically said it worked on K and L protocols on cars back to the 1990s. But other, completely different, code readers work fine on the Corolla.
  3. Are you aware that the dashboard end panel is easily removed to allow better access to the back of the switch? In this diagram the panel is shown as 55318C. It is held by plastic clips, you can use your fingers on the edge closest to the driver, or a plastic spatula, or a screwdriver with some plastic tape over it. It will be a little easier if the temperature is warmer.
  4. From what I've read, Toyota are not quite the biggest car company in the world, but they are the most profitable*. As a manufacturer, they are making almost 9% profit on each car, a figure that most major competitors still strive to match. And their Japanese-made cars still carry a 10% import duty here (for a while at least), but are still price-competitive with the European-made ones. In ensuring the former, and attempting to offset the latter, the cars do seem to end up more visibly penny-pinched these days than the competition. And the horns are usually a bit rubbish too. :-) Perhaps they're just very canny at not-quite pushing people away to the other brands with their careful cost control? [Sits back, and awaits flaming from other owners] *Source: Automotive News Europe
  5. The older model had 2 press-screw clips (a plug onto a threaded hole in the alloy valve cover) and 2 x 10mm dome-head nuts on the front two positions, if I remember correctly. Perhaps this changed later?
  6. In the unlikely event that the link above doesn't work, then you could try this one:- This ultimately leads to this page (link) for a door mirror parts listing:- It looks like the door mirror is comprised of just two separate parts: 1. The mirror 2. The painted cover If a brand new part was being considered - There is a Toyota dealer parts specialist on this forum (but quite a long way away from you) who can offer modest discounts on genuine Toyota parts, it is worth checking him out. He is called Parts-King (John), you can send him a personal message via this forum to see what he can do to help. He will need your VIN number or registration (if British registered). Alternatively, dealers will sometimes give a 10% discount on spares prices if you cheekily ask. Perhaps ask them for their 'best price'?? It might be worth trying 'Japanese Car Breakers' MK45 3JE just outside Bedford, so not too far from you. There is a chance they might have had one of yours through. It's quite a small business run by some Indian chappies. I would expect door mirror removal to be quick and easy, as you suggest. The alloy casting inside will probably have broken in two in your impact. Not an easy repair - I managed it on a Skoda once, but it took about 4 hours (and a lathe) to get it back together. Not really practical. Your post definitely doesn't read like that of a non-native speaker. Also, respect is due to your father for teaching you how to take a door mirror off!
  7. It's been a long time since I heard the problem that I described. The rev. range that the sound was apparent was a bit broader than you mention in your fault description, if I remember correctly. The noise was not what you might expect of a manifold - it was like two large pieces of hard plastic being bashed together very, very quickly - quite harsh. A classic resonant frequency effect, only at certain revs. But, it wasn't a noise that my wife picked up on. Conversely, I thought it ruined the drive! It wasn't until I heard the car with a different manifold that I really believed it was the cause! During an idle moment, perhaps it might be worth putting a narrow length of wood against the manifold and the other end against your ear (i.e. a stethoscope-type-arrangement) whilst the engine is revved, to see if you can hear the noise increase at the described rpm? That way it could be easily and cheaply ruled out. Usual warnings about staying well away from the moving alternator drive belt apply here, and no loose clothes, scarves, ties, long hair or excessively loose jewellery left unsecured...... so for safety's sake wear a tie-pin and your hair in a bun. :-)
  8. Try this video, yours must surely be like this:-
  9. There was a problem with the plastic/resin inlet manifold losing some of its internal welding, this caused a vibration at certain revs, a bit like you describe. But I thought that this had been fixed by the time 2006 models came out. As far as I understand it only some cars were affected, and it didn't get any worse with use. There were no chances of bits breaking off and damaging the engine, for instance. The fix was simply to replace the manifold complete (so take a chance on a manifold at a breakers?). This problem was a manufacturing defect. The manifold is quite heavy and a complicated shape internally. Replacement is straightforward, if it is indeed this, no other parts needed, about an hour or so. The vibration/noise could be heard when you revved the engine with the bonnet up, although hard to pinpoint, understandably. Or, exhaust heat shield loose (from rusting through a mount/support)? I'm sure there will be other ideas coming along shortly....
  10. Gerg


    Yes, tongue very firmly in cheek. I was just hoping anyone who didn't know the car would be taken in by my description. Is it possible one of your headlamps is misaligned left/right? This is a picture of our 2013 model with standard bulbs fitted, for comparison with yours - Your bulb will look like this - This is the inner headlamp arrangement (i.e. outer case removed) , notice solenoid shutter 'motor' underneath reflector - This is a bulb's eye view of the world, the high beam/low beam shutter can be seen, as can the beam pattern 'mask', I think - As it's such a new car, it would be very unlikely that someone has replaced the bulbs in an attempt to 'upgrade' them, wouldn't it? I've never tried this, but a 9006 bulb can be made to fit the HIR2 headlamp if its locating tangs are lightly modified (cut back). And Osram make a Nightbreaker Ultra, or something similar, in a 9006, but not a 9012. Although that is an upgrade path for the 9006, the 9012 is already a high performance bulb, so this is not necessarily the upgrade it seems for the HIR2 equipped cars. If this was ever tried (there are guides on how to do this on the internet) it could do weird things to your beam pattern. But this is an unlikely scenario. HTH
  11. This is a protective finish underneath the paint to stop stones from chipping away the colour-coat on the sills. It shows up more with your colour for some reason. Now you've spotted it you'll notice it on other cars. If it weren't there then you'd have cause to complain!
  12. Gerg


    Of course, you are entirely correct, 1940s! By some weird fluke, I came across this picture that I had, just this morning, whilst looking at something unrelated. Strange coincidence....
  13. Gerg


    I think it's a bit unfair comparing your Auris's headlights with those of a no-compromise performance saloon designed in the 1950s. In any case, you'd probably upgraded the Morris with some Wipac Quadoptics or similar. There are Toyota branded bulbs with a higher output (named OptiWhite) available from the dealer, but they won't change the beam pattern of course, just the intensity. And they'll set you back £50 a pair. And they don't last that long. Your Auris has an HIR2 bulb (Halogen Infra Red 2), also called a 9012, I think. They are used in some Auris, Yaris, Insignia, Amperas and others I can't remember at this moment. The bulb is high-output as standard, apparently. But it seems that many of the drivers of those models don't reckon that is very evident. There is only one bulb each side, it does both high and low beam via a solenoid operated shutter arrangement. So on low beam some of the light never gets to leave the headlamp, and you have a complete fail of both beams on one side if the bulb should burn out. On the other hand, the headlamps do look nice.
  14. Hi, assuming that the clicking noises are when you turn the key to the 'start' position, rather than just to 'on', then it sounds like a poor connection to the starter motor, or predictably, the starter motor itself. If there is a poor earth to the engine or the 12v supply hasn't the grunt, then the starter solenoid (built into the starter motor) will throw the starter gear into engagement and connect the starter windings (lots of current for this last bit, obviously). The poor connection will not support the current, so the voltage then collapses and the solenoid switches off, which causes the voltage to recover and switch the solenoid on again etc. etc. Hence the clicking. I don't know where the starter motor is exactly, but given the age of the car I'd be checking exposed earths to the engine block and the connections to the starter motor, although be very careful with the starter itself as the fat (red?) cable is permanently live and presents a potential shorting hazard if any spanners etc. go near it!! If you want to loosen or tighten that connector it would be best to disconnect the battery earth lead first! Note that when the battery is reconnected the car will instantly lock all the doors automatically, so don't leave your keys in the car when you do this. A duff battery/battery connection will give similar symptoms, but your lights would dim, as you mentioned.
  15. I spotted this website a while back. This site can quite quickly steal a lot of your time... Or for fans of seventies BLMC offerings, here's one of many on there: This isn't really car-related, but is up there with the best of them if you are of a certain age: This is probably all on Youtube, but at least there's no adverts on BFI Free.