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Gerg last won the day on May 2

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About Gerg

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    Auris Hybrid
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  1. I would imagine that if there was a big enough overfill (2+ litres???), then I think the oil would overwhelm the crankcase breather piping and then find its way into the inlet manifold. Not least because the crankshaft would be thrashing around in the oil, rather than above it, so the oil would likely become a mist or spray in the crankcase. Also the air volume under the pistons would be reduced, changing the way the crankcase ventilates e.g. the smaller volume of air has less 'give'. And the take off point for the crankcase breather is on the side of the crankcase, if I remember correctly (on the gen 3 it is anyway), so even more prone to problems than a rocker cover ventilation system. If enough oil was being put into the combustion chamber, I think some would pass through unburnt into the exhaust to some extent, where it would probably get burned off under the heat of acceleration. The gen 4 Prius are becoming available as a private import from Japan, so if this was one of those it could be out of warranty and getting serviced independently. I look forward to seeing a post on this forum soon from the driver......
  2. I think you may well be correct about the valve lifters being the likely cause. In your video the odometer shows 40,000 miles covered. Does this means the car has been doing plenty of short journeys? If so, this can lead to the rocker cover/camshaft/tappet area getting a bit crudded-up as the engine and its oil doesn't get properly up to temperature. And running the engine at normal temperature certainly helps in keeping the engine insides clean, the rocker cover is especially prone to running cold and getting condensation inside etc. This engine has hydraulic tappets, they would normally 'pump up' upon engine start up, as you know. The holes that allow the oil to enter the tappet (and thence adjust) are quite small and may be slightly obstructed by deposits, perhaps. In which case they would take longer to settle to their correct level, hence the noise? Whilst the badly adjusted tappet(s) sound a bit rough, it's best to remember the old confucian wisdom 'a loose tappet is a happy tappet', especially if it's just at start-up, anyway. As a suggestion, you could try using another engine flush (different brand? Wynns do one specifically for noisy lifters, for example), or if you want you could replace the hydraulic lifters themselves (aggravation/cost alert!), but just because they are noisy at start-up doesn't necessarily indicate impending failure - your car could go for years or more like this. I would leave it as it is. For more insight into the camchain (if you haven't googled it enough already) you could watch bits of these two Youtube clips - just dive in randomly, no need to watch the whole lot. Top marks to this bloke for videoing this, even if he is a bit heavy on the silicone sealant!
  3. There might be a typo in those figures - I think the above gives 58.9 mpg, or am I missing something?
  4. Perhaps that was a typo, but that pressure sounds a bit high. (I should add that I don't own one of these.) The Auris hybrid ran 2.3 bar, if I remember correctly. It might be useful to know if you are all running the same brand of tyres when you are making noise comparison, I would expect they are the same, but who knows? I'm sure you have already experienced this effect, but, when certain types of noise (e.g. engine, transmission) are reduced in comparison to a regular car, then the remaining, lesser, noises become more obvious, annoying and subjectively louder. I have experienced this as a before/after situation when attempting to soundproof other cars. Could the car's general quietness be making your 'side' noises more obvious? Although the Corolla doors close with a good 'clunk', I doubt that there is any more soundproofing on the metal part of the doors than on the Auris before it, which was two tiny squares (8 x 8 cm) of butyl on the sheet metal, so not very much. Apart from the door card there isn't a lot to stop external noises getting in. No doubt this is due to weight reduction, it will be said. I'd rather have the sound proofing. I notice that the 1.8 engine has no bonnet-attached sound proofing at all, where as the 2 litre has the regular fibre sheet attached via plastic clips. Perhaps this is due to the extra noise from the direct fuel injection on the 2.0? Or, as some suggest, the 'sound proofing' is actually for heat insulation to stop the bonnet getting too hot (?). Either way, some fine tuning has been going on here, it seems. I picked up a new-at-the-dealer Corolla brochure yesterday (actually printed April 19) to see what the factory fuel figures are. Despite the usual fuel consumption/CO2 disclaimers on the back cover, there was no reference to fuel consumption, or indeed anything remotely technical, contained in it. Just pictures of the usual 'beautiful people' visiting bars etc. etc. And pages of accessories and 'packs', without much detail on those either. Perhaps there's a more comprehensive one on the way?
  5. Gerg

    Check Hybrid System

    The warranties and long-term manufacturer liabilities are so different there, even if the cars are basically the same. The way Toyota operates their warranty in the UK is, by and large, considered to be very generous. From my experience, it's often quite difficult to get through to the 'right' people on the phone at customer services, many of them sound like they have no real knowledge about anything technical at all, but they are very polite. I think anyone at Toyota offering you cash support for this repair would be setting a precedent for this type of fault, so the defences would go up long before they did do that! But what have you got to lose? This forum is not viewed by Toyota, but two of the regular posters are staff at dealerships, just so you know!
  6. Gerg

    Check Hybrid System

    I think that link is directly related to your issue. I had seen the earlier version of this report a few months ago. As an aside, no mention of battery cooling fans getting clogged in that article....
  7. Gerg

    Check Hybrid System

    This is the point I was making. This sounds as if the diagnosis has been misunderstood by the customer service personnel, and then given to you. There is the potential for an (accidentally???) inflated bill being drawn up here unless the exact nature of the fault is clearly defined beforehand. The fan mentioned is at the back of the car, the inverter is at the front, they are connected electrically, but, just to repeat, I've not heard of one damaging the other, so far anyway. But, 'There's always a First time for everything' etc. etc. I don't think that you are being punished for not having a full Toyota service history, but Toyota UK might have offered to offset some of the bill if you had got all the services done by them, not least because this is an unusual fault and this part is not a 'wear and tear' item, but their goodwill gesture is not by any means certain at all. If it's of any consolation, the inverter module could be said to be taking on the role of the clutch (as well as lots of other functions) in a conventional car (this is not quite correct, there is no clutch in the HSD transmission etc. etc.). A bill of £1300 for a dealer clutch replacement for a conventional car is not unrealistic. Excuse the cheekiness of the suggestion; if and when the repair does go ahead, I would be pleased to collect the defective parts from you to see if anything can be learned by taking them apart and inspecting for wear or damage. I can quite understand that you might not wish to do this and it might be impractical. For what it's worth, under European consumer law, if a major fault develops within 6 years of original sale, it is viewed as being not fit for the purpose sold. If your car is (just) new enough you might have some recourse there. It is not a commonly used course of action.
  8. Gerg

    Check Hybrid System

    Hi, I've just re-read your original post, for some reason I mistakenly thought the repair had not yet started. (Too early in the morning for me!). If I understand correctly, the car is now repaired after the inverter has been replaced. How many miles has the car done? How long ago was it bought from the dealer? Does the car drive correctly now? If you are able, it would be interesting to see a list of the parts that were used in the repair, especially the inverter and/or water pump.
  9. I would be interested to know the Techstream option that needs changing, I had a quick look at this a couple of months ago and it wasn't obvious which option was the correct one, so it got left as it was. If I remember correctly, there were 2 or 3 potential candidates on the Auris Techstream menu.
  10. Gerg

    Check Hybrid System

    Just as background information:- The cooling fan mentioned (that fills with dirt and hair) is fitted under the rear seat, on the left hand side, close to the back door. From what I've read of other people's experience, when the battery cools down after an overheat/error light display (this is the traction battery fan, not the inverter), the problem goes away until the battery gets hot again, but this won't happen if the vent grille has been cleared. To date, I have not heard of any lasting damage caused by this. The repair is simple and takes a few minutes. The fan doesn't seem to fail. It is made in Japan. I always understood that there is only one inverter (could there be a small secondary one next to the traction battery to keep the 12v battery charged - but I assumed that was integral to the main one under the bonnet). That lives under the bonnet, on the r/h side when viewed from the front of the car, it's a big, flat, aluminium casting with orange cables running into it. This has no fan. It has an electric water pump that runs continuously when the car is in a 'ready' state. It uses a conventional radiator at the front of the car to keep cool. If the water pump fails (this can happen at higher mileages, say, beyond 120,000+ miles), then this can ruin the inverter as it overheats, but not always. The pump is straightforward to replace, I believe, and is probably £250-300 for the part, perhaps someone knows for sure. The inverter is a very expensive part, that is the part/price mentioned by the original poster. I don't believe fitting is very difficult for this. Dirt and hair does not have any affect on this item - there is no service requirement, apart from changing the coolant. If I remember correctly, this is done after 10 years, I would have to look it up to be sure. Your fault sounds like the first one, but the diagnosis sounds like the second one. If it were me, I would want to get this clarified (a lot!) before the repair was started. I have no recollection of anyone having the first problem causing the second, but then I'm just an owner/occasional driver. Perhaps someone else knows more....?
  11. I don't think it could make **that** much difference, but, have you compared your tyre pressure gauge against some others? I have tried this on quite a few gauges/pumps. The digital ones I have tried are usually very good, or way out if they are bad (very rare). The analogue ones are a very mixed bag. My old PCL (Pneumatic Components Limited) brand 'pencil' model is accurate, and always gets good results in magazine tests over the years, but they aren't that widely available any more. On the Mk2 Auris, the brochure fuel figures for a 15" wheel was 78 mpg (combined) and for 17" wheel it was 72 mpg. I think the differences between tyres sizes quoted in the Prius gen 3 and gen 4 brochures were slightly bigger (10 mpg?). The usual caveats apply when talking about the govt. figures, of course. I have seen a paper brochure for the Corolla at the dealers, so they do exist now. (There was nothing when they first launched). That should make mpg comparisons between wheel sizes a bit easier. If, by some quirk, the tracking was out, that would impair the mpg slightly. The check is normally free at tyre specialists, but I had it checked once and was advised of small adjustments required when I had only just had it done somewhere else! As the mpg figures get higher these small differences make a bigger (numeric) difference, as I'm sure you know.
  12. On the sensor I've got the batteries sit in a space filled with potting compound, which I've always taken to be an epoxy-type of filler (Can you confirm, Mooly?). It's certainly *very* tough. The battery itself looks to have spot-welded connections. I think that removing the epoxy-like stuff would involve plenty of heat, so far from ideal. Also, soldering attachments onto the button cell can sometimes cause them to overheat and burst open. I imagine that their priority at the factory was trying to make the unit completely waterproof and damage resistant.
  13. A bit late to put this link up as you've probably seen the TPMS sensor close-up now, but anyway, here's a picture of one in case you didn't:-
  14. I have an idea that the hybrid transmission (which I have recently drained) uses the same washers as the manual box, if so, the hybrid/manual transmission uses an aluminium washer that is 2mm thick. There is one on the drain plug and one on the fill plug.