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Gerg last won the day on May 2

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About Gerg

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    Auris Hybrid
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  1. 16v is too high, I would look to 14.7v. I would be very careful about the liquid on the battery, when you overcharge a battery it will get too hot. Also, if there is an AC charging issue (yet to be measured/shown) then overheating the battery is the outcome for that too. Best assume it is acid, and as the battery is now charged the acid will be at full strength! A bigger hazard! Disconnecting the earth strap is fine, but 0.5 amps is 6W, did you have the door/interior light on? That seems a bit high for no-load....
  2. I have just checked on our car, this car had WD40 sprayed all over the fuse box when it was almost new (wifey's car), so corrosion ought not to be an issue. Those fuses are stuck firm, if I was to use any more force then I would be in the realms of cracking the covers. So I've left them as they are. The Haynes manual (actually one for the next model) offers no advice at all. I think the white plastic bit stays put. I'd completely forgotten there was an alternator fuse on this car. As Furtula mentions, in these circumstances, I would disconnect the alternator at the alternator itself. I've just checked the connections, they are much easier than I remember them - just the one nut under the rubber boot, and a multiwire plug. I still think it's worth dropping off the battery earth first, though. I think that when you disconnect the alternator the parasitic drain (4Amps!) will go with it, and the other fuses won't matter. This one has a Bosch alternator, it has never been replaced (124000m).
  3. On the topic of code readers, I just noticed this bluetooth dongle for sale with an unusual disclaimer: "Please Note This Device Will Not Clear ABS or Airbag Faults For Safety Reasons " I've never tried doing that with my (very similar) tool, but I guess mine will only display, not clear, ABS error codes too?
  4. Yes. When you get your battery charged and your meter to hand, set in on the 20v dc range as above. Check the exact voltage with the battery disconnected from the car. As soon as a load is attached, the reading after the decimal point will lower a small amount. It would also be useful to know what voltage reading you get across the battery on the 20volt ac range with the engine running, and also with the engine at 1200 rpm. A second person needed here to open the throttle. If it's not the alternator draining the battery, then there isn't much that could flatten a battery that quickly. A faulty boot light, for example, should stay on for a day with no problems at all. As background, when disconnecting the battery, it is best to disconnect the earth wire first, that way, if your spanner touches the body accidentally, nothing happens. And if you then disconnect the positive terminal, an accidental short to the body etc.with the spanner does nothing I don't think that disconnecting the fuses will highlight anything, so it might be worth starting with disconnecting the alternator, which has bolt-on wires, if I remember. If you want to disconnect these then you must disconnect the battery first, if not done already, to avoid the (very real!) chance of an accidental short. And the disconnected wires should be insulated to prevent them touching any part of the car if the battery is to be reconnected afterwards. Perhaps an old glove or very thick bag cable-tied over the top of them??? If you intend pulling fuses then don't forget to photo the fuse layout before you start. It is easy to put your meter onto the dc current range and fit it in series with the connection to the battery to help fault find. But this carries a greater chance of damaging the car or meter if you then try to measure a voltage with the meter still set to the current setting. It's easily done. So I'd avoid doing that until you become familiar with the meter. On the 'current' setting the meter probes are effectively a shorting wire! If you do use the current reading on the meter, then an acceptable drain with everything off should be less than 40mA. If you post back here what the voltage drop/difference is with or without the alternator connected, that might be meaningful as well. HTH
  5. Hi, unfortunately my dongle came from Amazon. I've never seen them for sale in any motor factors or car shops, but then I wasn't looking out for one. Does the ABS error ever clear by itself? For non-critical errors (so probably not ABS-related ones) the errors can clear after a certain amount of time and/or ignition key cycles. But ABS and airbag errors generally won't do this. Just because the light stays on doesn't necessarily mean the fault is still happening, but it can be. If the ABS light did go out (as with your battery disconnect earlier?), you could very briefly run the car with the alternator belt off to see if this stopped it coming back on, as there would be no 'dirty' supply. But, this leaves the water pump not driven as well!!! So only try this very briefly, and in any event, say, 15 seconds absolute max. , before letting the engine cool off again. Also note, the power steering won't work. The alternator belt is tensioned by a sprung-loaded pulley, so apart from a spanner to quickly unload the spring there are no tools required, apart from a camera to note how the belt was routed. Let me know if you need more information on that job. I would only do the above as an extreme money-saving effort. Getting the belt off is easy, but getting it back on can take a while, and your hands and arms will probably get pretty dusty/dirty. Also, if the belt is old (original?!?!) it may split! I replaced our belt a year back. I've just checked EuroCarParts, they list a conventional 'Streetwize' (so a bit cheap and crude) code reader for £17.50 (+discount code?), it's in branches. I don't know if this works for your Corolla. It's similar to one I used successfully, but that was on engine ECU codes. I have no idea if that one, or this one, works on brake ECU codes - I've never had any!
  6. We have the same car, The OBD2 port looks the same as any, but the OBD2 connection at this age uses a different protocol. This works along two different pins of the connector using the K-line protocol, if I remember correctly. I have 4 completely different OBD2 readers; the oldest and the newest (an ELM327 dongle + smartphone) will read codes on this car, the other two (pc-based) will not connect to the car at all, although they claim to be backward-compatible with the earlier protocol. I think the Kwik-Fit man probably just knows the limitations of his equipment. As to the fault, you didn't mention why the battery was changed in the very first instance. What was the original problem and circumstances? Just as a theory, I wonder the alternator is defective? It is providing some charge, but maybe also putting through some AC current to the battery due to a defective regulator/rectifier. This 'noisy' power with 'voltage ripple' could cause the ABS ECU to falsely report an error condition above 1200rpm (when the alternator starts to really generate some output?) - the ECU is designed to work off a smooth, steady supply. I don't know what the ABS ECU would do if there was a noisy power feed - I've not heard of a problem like this one before. When checking an alternator, I don't think many people check for AC ripple voltage. The Green Flag man might have checked for this, if he'd come out. To that end, I think you have been running on the new battery's charge for the last two weeks with little proper charge coming from the alternator, and the battery has finally run out. Also AC charging is a disaster for car batteries and will knacker them. Just to confuse things, if the engine has been run without the battery connected at some point, then that was always said (from the early days of alternator fitment - 1970s) to be a sure-fire way of rogering the regulator and/or rectifier in the alternator, a real no-no! So was the alternator failing from before this, or was it killed by the battery terminal coming off in use, afterwards? As I mentioned above, this is just a theory! And I don't know why the red warning light is coming on. Also, why no 'charge' warning light showing, or is that the red light described above? I would expect the brake warning light to come on for a low-brake-fluid error, or the handbrake left on, not so? And with a car of this age there is plenty of potential for corrosion-related bad earthing points to factor in as well. A day in the life of owning a classic car..... :-)
  7. An interesting picture. I think on the regular Yaris the lump would extend to about the front (r/h in the picture) of the battery and have some carpet put over it - I'm sure you knew that. I'm surprised that the tank isn't a bit smaller than it is (36l), unless they've moved some other bits around to give the tank more space in another direction. But that would be more expense for them, but then, they've already made a different shaped fuel tank and floor! I'd forgotten that they've put the 12v battery in there as well.
  8. On the current Yaris hybrid the petrol tank is smaller than on a normal one - some bits have been changed to accommodate the batteries. I think there is a different floorpan for the hybrid to take some petrol tank space and give it to the underseat/battery space. The back seat of a Yaris will normally sit on a big bump in the floor, so not like this picture (of an Auris hybrid, but yours will certainly be similar). The petrol tank figures are 36 litres vs 42 litres. HTH
  9. Thanks for the complete response, good to know what the future might hold! I thought £120 for the 12v battery was the Toyota fixed-price for any Auris battery, but I haven't looked for ages at the fixed-price menu When I looked last year on eBay for the same battery as you've bought, they were much more.
  10. Gerg

    Water in boot

    I had a very similar problem on a Mazda 6. I used a digital camera with 'macro' and 'flash' enabled. When I looked at the images of the seam blown-up, I spotted a pinhole in the seam mastic that you couldn't see normally. I had spent hours looking for that leak (which was behind the light, coincidentally). Just sayin'!
  11. That's really useful information. Was it the engine or inverter water pump that failed? Were there any early warning signs of it going? (Noises, leaks, error codes.) Did you get any idea what it would have cost you if it wasn't under warranty? I have replaced pads where the new ones are just too large. It's difficult to believe that the dimension of the new part could be wrong, but the backing plates look to be a simple stamping and the metal can look a bit 'approximate' underneath the paint. I've just used a hand file to get them 'just so', and then some copper grease. I have never had any problems in the months or years afterwards. Sometimes, when I'm cleaning out brake calipers, I lift the rubber dust boot lip and put some silicone oil spray into the void (using an applicator tube) to reduce the chance of any corrosion problems later on. But when I did the Auris fronts, (not done the backs yet), that space was already very well greased from the factory - never seen that before!
  12. Ah, OK, that sounds like a particularly good reason to want an ECU picture. I wish I could help you.
  13. I have fitted this to a similar age of Auris (2013) and the all the wiring was already present, apart from a short 13cm piece of cable that fits between the cruise control switch and the steering wheel connector. But this cable normally comes included with the cruise control switch - but not when you buy from a a Toyota dealer. Is there any reason why you think you will need to connect a wire to the ECU for your car?
  14. I put the two into a small jar and shook it like heck. I hoped it might turn into an emulsion, but mine wouldn't, just red blobs in a clear liquid. No one mentioned that on the websites that the recommendation came from. I already had the acetone and the ATF, so it was no great effort to try this out. If you are ever over Henlow direction, then I can give you some Morris Liquimatic D2 ATF, or bring a jar if you only want enough to experiment with.