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Gerg last won the day on June 22

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About Gerg

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    Auris Hybrid
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    General Automotive

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  1. Just out of curiosity, to see what these look like, I googled that part number. It also fits an Aston Martin Cygnet (so, a heavily reworked Toyota iQ) for £3.22 + vat. Assuming that that is an up to date price, then it is way below half price of the Toyota dealer item. Who'd have guessed? Toyota price is dearer than an Aston Martin specialist?!
  2. As well as all the above, the driver/journey usage pattern probably has an effect on battery life as much as mileage, and this is very difficult to establish, understandably. Also, by way of further explanation as to the long life of the battery: the car in normal use will generally operate the battery between 45% and 65% of total theoretical battery charge (the whole dash displayed span of the battery charge is actually only 40%-80% of the total theoretical battery charge). This extends the battery charge cycle life enormously, see here:- When the batteries (eventually) do give problems, then it is down to one or more cells having different charge/discharge characteristics to all the others. When this goes beyond a certain threshold the car will post a battery error. The failing cell(s) are almost always in the centre of the pack, as these are the ones which run hottest due to the nature of the air cooling. The cells can be removed and replaced separately (not at Toyota), but the 'new' cell works best when it matches the existing cells' charge/discharge performance, or else the battery management will throw another error. That's how I understand it, anyway.. Anything that gets the batteries hot will shorten their life, Toyota have designed the electric assistance so it is never that strong (heat generation!), so as to prolong the battery life. As an example, on another forum there are very occasional posts from hybrid owners who live on the small French island of Réunion, near Madagascar. It is hot and very mountainous. The hybrid batteries last about a third as long as they do here!
  3. As well as being a tell-tale that the air conditioning is switched on unlike say, a heated window tell-tale, the air conditioning light is also an indicator that it is working satisfactorily - this aspect of the light's operation is not similar to all the other dash indicators. For example, if refrigerant the gas has leaked out, then the tell-tale will not come on at all - it's effectively a simple 'diagnostic pass' light.
  4. I would expect that inset piece in your picture to be an integral part of the bigger door panel, so no clips that you can buy and replace. If it was made like an Auris door panel, then the fabric-inset-piece is attached by hard plastic pins (that are part of the bigger moulding) that are subsequently melted to form what looks like a rivet head. Like this Auris panel :- I think you have broken one of these 'rivets' (arrow) - perhaps by striking that panel hard. If the door panel is removed (10-15 minutes?), then carefully applying some epoxy resin, or even some hot-melt glue with a gun, should be quite easy, particularly for someone who has removed this type of door panel before. But, the Prius door could be made differently......
  5. I have had the same problem on a Mazda MX5, and used toothpaste with reasonable success. However, the haze comes back faster the next time around, this will be almost irrespective of what you've polished them with - the polished plastic (it's polycarbonate, I believe) needs some UV protection putting on them to slow its reappearance. I think some available kits include this UV protection product. I'm not certain they all do, I've never bought one. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I notice that the car's previous owner has had a poorly-masked bumper respray done to repair some minor damage, and that some lacquer has been sprayed onto the edge of the plastic headlamp lens; this edge has not suffered any hazing at all, despite the unlacquered lens immediately next to it obviously fading. So lacquering the (previously polished) whole headlamp might be a longer term solution?
  6. No, I haven't gone ahead and had a tilt alarm fitted yet, although I would still consider it. I don't understand the price differences that people have been charged, apart from those stemming from the goodwill contribution itemised on my quote. That quote was from a branch of the Steven Eagell chain, which you don't have down your way (yet!). They have bought out just about every concession around north London, East Anglia and the South Midlands. The anti-tamper bolt caps, whilst I'm yet to see them, sound worthwhile. The ease of removing the two unprotected, 14mm hex pipe/manifold bolts is a major part of the Toyota catalyst theft problem, as I see it, (once you've looked past general lawlessness and police disinterest, of course) as they are too straightforward to remove as they are. Basically, the same two bolts and their under-car accessibility are common across most Toyota hybrid models (but Yaris hybrid has a significantly different catalyst location) - so the scumbags have the benefit of familiarity when violating some poor Toyota owner's car. At the moment I am using some home-brew anti-tamper bolts, as the official Toyota item was not remotely known about when I wanted to do something about these. For what it's worth, a German (Stuttgart) member on this very forum had to have the concept of 'catalyst theft' explained to him; he had no idea what people over here were talking about, and it doesn't seem remotely common in France, Belgium or Italy, as far as I can fathom - it has only been mentioned once (that I've seen) on the France-based Hybridlife forum. HTH.
  7. We have the heated seats on a 2013 Auris Excel. We bought the car privately and out of warranty. The seats have not been looked at by Toyota. The duration of of the initial warm up phase depends on the ambient temperature in the car, from our experience anyway, so in winter they stay on much longer before the thermostat kicks in. We have noticed that if both seats are being sat in, the two seats warm up, turn off, and then turn back on again (over a a few minutes) in almost perfect synchronization, and further heat cycles are similarly in phase. If your seats have just been 'fixed', then I would probably expect to be able to see where the technicians fingers have disturbed the (inevitable) dust, that will be around where the seat cover clips to the metal seat frame.
  8. Just as background: I have taken one of these seats apart apart just to see 'what is what'. The heating element is inside a fabric layer that sits between the seat foam and the seat cover. At its rearmost point, so not directly underneath where you sit, there are 2 circular thermostats - one for each temperature setting, as shown here :- The thermostats, once triggered by the correct rise in temperature, take too long to cycle back to an 'on' state, so the seat is allowed to cool off too much. Rather than change the 'faulty' thermostats only (which would be fiddly as they are soldered into the wiring), they are replacing the complete heater/thermostat arrangement. As far as I can make out, it seems as if the wrong thermostats have been specified or supplied to the seat manufacturer, rather than an electrical failure. As this is a standard sized component, I investigated if an 'off the shelf' thermostat would work in this application, but the on-off-on temperature range (hysteresis?) of generally available components is too great - they would give the same problem as the original thermostat, if I remember correctly. Perhaps someone else knows more on this? HTH.
  9. The Toyota tilt alarm was already available before the quote above as given, but the exhaust manifold bolt anti-tamper fitment was only just about to be delivered to dealers at that time. The quote was for a 2013 model, so should be the same as yours. HTH.
  10. Whilst you are waiting for some more replies, it might be worth me putting my interpretation on your fault. I have not heard of this problem in normal use on an Auris, I don't remember anyone reporting it before. It appears you have researched this problem already, so most of the following is probably already known to you:- On almost all modern cars, all the major computers (ABS, Vehicle Stability Control, Engine ECU etc.) communicate with each other via a CAN bus ( Controller Area Network (CAN,applications without a host computer.) This simplifies manufacture, and the wiring loom is reduced in complexity. The errors you are getting suggest that that this 'data highway' is intermittently not functioning. The problem could be due to a simple bad connection, or a poor grounding/earthing to the vehicle chassis. In the first instance, it is probably worth thoroughly cleaning/wire brushing/re-tightening all the earthing points, especially around the engine bay. This is especially important if the car is in salty, harsh environment e.g. northern European countries, or living near the sea. The dealership's suggestion sounds reasonable, but checking all the earthing (including the battery connection at both ends) would be an economical first step and something you could possibly do yourself. Has the car suffered any water leaks or had any accident damage? Is the engine under-bonnet area corroded much? Has there been any modification the the cars electrical system for new accessories, dash cameras or radios etc.? I have caused a vaguely similar problem, just once, in very specific circumstances, when I disconnected and reconnected a diagnostic tool into the car's diagnostic socket (OBD2 socket) whilst the car was in motion, this seemed to 'panic the bus' and caused a major, fleeting reset to the CAN bus. It has never happened since. There were not quite as many errors as you have had, but they were of similar nature. I put that problem down to my 'operator error' - don't plug anything into the car's CAN bus whilst it is moving - not that that is what you are doing, of course. Best of luck!
  11. I have driven the Corolla on test drives with both engines, but don't own either. As well as all the above, which I agree with, here are some other thoughts: At least initially, drivers often comment that during spirited acceleration, all the previous Toyota hybrids to varying degrees, have allowed the engine revs to climb quite high and the engine to be quite vocal (some have described this as 'mooing'). Some find this off-putting, at least at first. This is quite a contrast to 'normal' driving where the engine is very, very refined. The 1.8 engine an improvement over the older 1.8 engine that preceded it in the Auris, in this 'mooing' respect. But the 2.0 is sufficiently brawny that, even if this hybrid characteristic is at odds with the civilised character of the car, you won't be hearing so much of the noise, because the car will just get to your desired speed much faster, at which point you back off the throttle and peaceful progress is resumed. If you are well-used to driving a turbo diesel or turbo petrol car, then the extra urge of the 2.0 helps to make up for some of the effortless torque that you have given up when deciding not to buy another one. Having said that, the 1.8 is unquestionably enough, and as Autocar magazine highlighted in their long term test, getting good mpg out the car can be a very addictive game to engage in, and the car may change the way you drive and your attitude to driving in the future. Perhaps to the extent that you will no longer really need the performance that the 2.0 gives, because your driving has changed! This is all extremely subjective, and the road tests were a while back.....
  12. Gerg

    EGR Cleaning?

    Yes, I would agree with you. Perhaps a way to put that to the test might be to check an an engine that has not started burning oil, and see if the EGR carbon build up is proportionately (by mileage) less, or even barely existent at all. My spare EGR cooler allegedly came off a written-off Prius with 55,000 miles from a small, local breaker's yard, and it was a long way from blocking up, but it wasn't that clean either. I might have a picture of it somewhere, taken before I cleaned it. But the car breaker was able to quote the mileage of the car so quickly, you might question the accuracy of that mileage figure! On a bit of a whim, I have just contacted Shell UK technical department (now in Singapore, actually) about the use of V-power fuel, to see their opinions on it cleaning piston rings, especially oil control rings (they say they wouldn't expect it to, it's too far away from the combustion area), and also, if engine oil burned in an engine suffering poor oil control would be any less likely to produce soot if was using synthetic oil (over mineral or semi-synthetic), they wouldn't expect to see any difference in that, either. I also asked if using their V-power fuel would have any beneficial effect on EGR cleanliness at all, in a modern petrol engine, they said it would not help. The answers were what I was expecting, I was just interested to see the Shell official view on this. The chap was very friendly and patient with his answers, he was in no rush to 'get me off the line'. There were one or two questions he was a little hesitant on (but there was some time-lag on the line anyway) - he suggested I might like to try emailing -, I think this may have been because of his potentially overstepping the mark in some answers. He would not be drawn on answering model-specific queries, as he said that it was not for Shell to comment on other company's designs.
  13. Gerg

    EGR Cleaning?

    I don't think the EGR function sees any use at all until the engine is up to normal, (73 C+) temperature, so this shouldn't complicate matters at all for your car. I seem to remember that I read (on another forum) that Toyota went through several (3?) different part numbers of head gasket up until 2013. I have no idea why this might be, but I would guess that the newer designs were to make them more durable, perhaps someone on here knows? So yours will be the later (better, hopefully!) design. I have yet to take the EGR circuit apart on our car as the mileage is a little on the low side for that (72,000 miles, mostly brisk!), but I might have a look in the next month or so. Your picture shows significantly less carbon build up than the photos that I have seen, but those pictures are usually of bad-running examples on Priuschat, so you've likely seen them as well. Like this one, taken from the thread of Dan Latu's epic, complete, and extremely thorough, engine strip down (at 150,000miles?, I cant remember exactly). I have a cheap eBay endoscope, which I might try to put to good use on this. On the Prius gen3/Auris, the cooler is this brand:- So, certainly not badged Denso on these cars, unless this company is a subsidiary. This isn't my picture, this is an eBay UK one, but I have a spare one of these, (to swap in, when it eventually needs cleaning) and it is exactly the same as this one in every respect. An interesting article - you've done some serious reading on this! HTH
  14. In the event that you did need a coil pack, then it is worth shopping around. I have just bought one for our 2001 1.4 Corolla vvti (I think it is the exact same part as a Yaris, as it happens), I got an NGK branded one (made in China) for well under £40. It's a perfect fit and has cured the bad misfire (which, helpfully, did throw an ECU code up). I checked the Toyota dealer price, it is £168. This is the second (different!) coil I have had to change on this car in the last 2 years, the car's done 130,000 miles, for what it's worth. The previous coil I bought was an Intermotor branded one - there are plenty of choices, many I'd not heard of. Intermotor was a make of electrical parts I'd known about for decades. It was at the cheaper end of the price spread, it is still working fine. Off the internet, the Intermotor is available for under £29, if you don't mind the wait, and are happy that the coil is at fault. The price from a breaker is around £18, with a 30 day warranty. Not exactly a bargain.....
  15. Gerg

    EGR Cleaning?

    An interesting question! I would have expected the way the engine is used in the plug-in gen1 to make the EGR problem less likely or the same as the normal Prius, depending how much use you're making of its (rather limited) electric range. But I don't know how the plug-in gen1 fits in with the warm up cycle description listed in this thread:- The EGR carbon build-up is not something I've spent any time considering, but my idea seemed logical. The EGR gases in the Prius are not different to any other petrol engine, why do they seem prone to sooting up the pipes? It would be good to hear other ideas....