Gerg

Registered Member
  • Content Count

    241
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Gerg last won the day on April 14

Gerg had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

67 Excellent

About Gerg

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Gerg
  • Toyota Model
    Auris Hybrid
  • Toyota Year
    2013
  • Location
    Bedfordshire

Recent Profile Visitors

1,479 profile views
  1. Gerg

    Check engine Auris 2010 1.4D

    As I understand it, the car going into a limp mode for certain errors is mandated by government. This is in order to prevent the driver ignoring failing emission control function and driving on, regardless, allowing the car to pollute excessively. It is natural to think the car loses power directly because of a fault, but this isn't necessarily so, it is written into ECU code to 'strangle' the problem car. The directive came out around 2001, I think, and became more stringent later. Just to state the obvious, the DPF collects soot, the regeneration burns the soot into ash. The ash has a much, much reduced volume compared to the soot, but it has nowhere to go; the DPF is an 'overshoot' filter with deliberate 'dead ends'. On many cars the ECU will calculate (mathematically) the current weight of ash in the filter, and when the DPF has exceeded the design limit of ash (say ~150,000 miles, depends on driving style etc., etc.?) it will post an error. The DPFs are not designed to be cleaned/emptied, but many independant companies claim they can clean them out, but the exhaust needs dismantling to do so, if I understand this properly. HTH.
  2. Funny you should mention Poland. A quick internet search shows someone in Poland selling a new one for 2500 Zloty, which is just over £500, but then there's postage, currency charges, no regular guarantee etc. to count against that idea. At least there's no duty if you buy before March 2019. If you plead poverty at your local dealer you could get 10% off, maybe a bit more. But don't forget that it's not a given that this is at fault. The second error code you list is perhaps on account of the device re-referencing itself due to the invalid sensor reading earlier. These *could* be down to a datum point (an endstop?) moving or changing (a foreign body? binding or slack in the mechanism?). But this actuator is probably Japanese, so the likelihood of opening it up and finding some crud inside it, removing it and fixing it is that bit less, as the original design and quality control was probably good. If you do take it apart to fix it and it breaks then you have no car, so a responsibilty there. In the first instance, I would still go for a battery disconnect and check all earth connections to the battery, engine and chassis (as any poor connections could do weird things to the digital electronics in this), It's not *that* likely to be the problem, but as it's free to do, why not? Could do with some input from members Mooly (Hall effect sensor theory), or Konrad (petrol VVTi experience), who might actually know a bit about this topic. For me this is all a bit hypothetical, I've never seen one. So, Delphi Gillingham? (formerly Lucas CAV?), I've been there.
  3. Gerg

    If the unthinkable happens

    A pop-off cover on the driver's door handle that conceals a normal door lock underneath ?
  4. I have not had any experience with these engines, so judge the following accordingly! I'm just looking at your pictures! You may have already worked this out from your googling: The position sensor I would understand to be the 'Hall ICs' shown in your valvematic cutaway picture. These are 'hall effect sensors' (Google?), so no maintenance can be done to them, and they are buried quite deeply in the actuator, so you can't see them. These are critical, (this is the electronic throttle; if they sensors don't know exactly how the shaft is set then then the engine power is no longer being controlled properly!). This looks to be an entirely electronic system, no oil pressure used, and the £850 actuator has a controller piggybacked onto it (EDU), connected via a 'CAN' (Google?) bus (shown on the Spanish diagram), this would indicate that lots of data can go to and from this module. If there is any question of the hall sensors not doing exactly as the ECU expects, the module will put out a fault code (i.e. the two you've listed). Whilst there is a good chance it will not fix the fault, it would be a good idea to disconnect the car battery for 30 minutes or so. This will cause all the electronic controllers to re-learn the engine parameters (i.e. a reboot of everything). Your engine may behave a little strangely for a short while when you next start up whilst it does the re-learn (and you will lose all your radio presets etc). If you can reseat the connector to the valvematic actuator then do that as well, but the release tang will be stiff; care needed! Also, I notice that your battery terminal cover is off. Have you had any other battery/electrical problems? If you had a bad earth connection to the engine it could easily give false error codes, so look out for loose or corroded electrical earth connections (although the engine looks quite clean). It's worth just loosening and tightening those bolts if you can. The VVTi (i.e. not the valvematic system) shown does rely on oil pressure to offset the camshaft positions, but your fault seems like something seperate to that. Unless there is an underlying problem, changing from 5w/30 to 0w/20 won't make any difference apart from to your fuel economy. No harm in doing your oil/filter/sludge cleaner plan though. Your error codes may be a 'known' problem with these engines with a specific fix, I'm just suggesting trying the easy stuff before you start spending anything. In the error code description you can ignore the 'Bank 1' part, your engine only has a Bank 1, if I'm understanding this correctly. No one from Toyota GB ever reads this forum, btw. Of course, I am happy to be corrected on any of the above if someone with some actual experience of this comes along!
  5. Gerg

    Reverse Camera - Water Ingress

    I'm not sure how much detail the manual goes into regarding the trim removal, as I don't have one (I would be interested to know what you are using - the Toyota pay-as-you-go online manual?). But, I did have to tidy up all the mistakes that my local dealer left when they borked my car - just damage limitation, really. So, it's worth knowing that the boot pull-down handle can be removed without tools just by gently distorting the rim along its longest length whilst pulling it out. It takes a little dexterity. It certainly doesn't need the screwdriver or claw hammer that had been used in several places on mine. The clips that the parcel shelf cords hang from are detached by popping the top 1.5mm or so out (along an almost invisible join), this allows the 'conventional' base to collapse slightly in its hole, so it can be pulled out. There are four small, white intermediate trim clips that fit on the l/h and r/h of the window surround trim, they are easily lost, and just as easily pushed into the door void when refitting the trim. If left there, they will audibly tumble the length of the door every time it is opened. And closed. It took the best part of an hour to extract these from inside the door on arriving back from the dealer. The cameras on the facelift mk2 Auris have a slightly convex outer glass, I have no idea why. When my camera was replaced it was for an identical item that had an almost flat lens, I wonder if the later design is more weatherproof?
  6. Gerg

    Reverse Camera - Water Ingress

    Did the water get in by itself or has the car been pressure washed? The water ingress on mine was a problem after it had been into the dealer, and been pressure washed by them - I only use a bucket, sponge and normal hosepipe, so I didn't suffer this until just after a service. That's not to say the camera isn't defective; when the seal around the lens looks grey then I am thinking that's because the seal is no longer pressing tightly against the back of the lens. In summer, you could've let it dry itself out (mine did eventually) and then applied some flexible plastic glue (I have no recommendation as to brand) to the edge of the lens over the joint. But at this time of year it could take ages heating the camera with a hairdryer to get rid of the moisture. Removing the camera would require all the boot interior trim coming off, as well as the exterior boot handle. A bit of a PITA.
  7. Gerg

    Gearbox dead

    I would contact Toyota GB customer service and explain the situation to them. Your 18 years of Toyota ownership must carry serious weight there (but your non-Toyota services on this car will work against you, of course, from a goodwill point of view). Apart from your time you have nothing to lose and everything to gain by ringing them! Worth mentioning that you are looking to get your next Toyota soon, too. I think I am correct in saying that Toyota GB will instruct the dealer what to do in this situation, and if they have failed to respond to a problem whilst under warranty, Toyota may look to the dealer to provide a contribution to the repair on account of their earlier lack of action, as well as Toyota picking up the rest of the balance. Of course there are no certainties in this type of situation. It would be useful to know if there is a technical bulletin for your problem, as I think this would make it more likely for Toyota GB to put their hand-up on your fault when it is just out of warranty. My guess is that the dealer, 18 years ago, was called Richard Tebbutt? If so, their recently not being able to find a fault would fit in with expectations. HTH
  8. Gerg

    Paint damage caused by goalkeeper gloves!

    Looks like a perfect job for T-Cut in the first instance. Farecla do a range of abrasive polishes if you want, say, a finer abrasive (Farecla G10, for example), but it's more expensive and not so readily available.
  9. Gerg

    Changing headlight bulb

    Press the piece of the connector marked with a star. It is unlikely there will be a 'click' or anything useful to tell you that you have pressed it hard enough. You are causing the hollow square above it to lift off the corresponding square tang on the bulb via a pivot that is half way along its length. This sometimes works better if you press the clip (star) whilst pushing the connector further onto the bulb, to allow the plastic piece to lift and disengage, before then pulling down and off. It will be stiff - it has a rubber sealing washer inside that will stop it coming off easily. Be prepared for it to come off suddenly (knuckles losing skin on something near?). Unless it is different to the one in this picture!
  10. Gerg

    4.2 D4D - hot start issue!

    As G says above, I remember reading that on some diesels, if the engine doesn't exceed a pre defined cranking rpm, the value of which is held in the ECU (if the Toyota engine follows VAG practice - which it may well do), then the injectors will likely not operate. On a cold start, this cranking rpm number might be lower, if it exists at all. On a Skoda forum, it was suggested that this is to stop the engine accidently restarting (when hot) after an accident. On VAG diesels, it was worked out that if the battery was not in very good condition, cold starts were fine, but hot starts could be a problem. In those cars replacing the battery made a miraculous difference to hot starting, (but could just as easily be a starter problem/poor connection on your car). I appreciate that this is a question about a Toyota diesel. But thought this might be of use.
  11. I've not had a reason to remove one yet, I downloaded all the relevant 'how-to' guides when I found them, just in case I needed them later. The diagram shows four 'pull' clips on the outer case, and two clips and 2 screws on the instrument module. This is roughly the same as any Mazdas or Nissans I've taken off. I didn't disconnect the battery on those, perhaps I got lucky, they worked fine afterwards. Perhaps someone knows the official line. On some cars there is enough loom-slack on the instruments to get behind it without disconnecting. Months ago, I was at a Toyota dealer when they had parked an Auris in mid-repair into the used-car-for-sale car park. The car had its dash part-dismantled, but had been put back together without the top of the dash. It would have been awkward getting in the car to take pictures of it, not least because the keys were in and the ignition was left switched on... Maybe these pics through the windscreen might be of use. The last picture shows the power steering motor (shiny cube) with the instruments on the left, not very clear, I know.
  12. This is a screen shot from the Toyota guide to upgrading the radio, the original is available on the Toyota GB website for free if you search hard. The document title is at the very top of the picture. These guides are all picture-based, there is no relevant text to go with this screen shot. Looks like there are some screws on the instrument cluster. As the car isn't with me currently, I can't remember what '3' looks like when fitted. There is some access available by removing the r/h dash end panel (the one that gets hidden when the door is closed). This pops off quite easily, no screws. Perhaps that might be enough if your hands aren't too big. Don't forget to update on how you get on! HTH.
  13. Gerg

    Auris Car Seats

    I have had similar problems with seat comfort. There is some scope to fit a fixed DIY lumbar cushion inside the seat, to try to mimic the lumbar adjust that is fitted to some models. I have recently stripped down the whole seat, so can give some suggestions or pictures if that is of any use. I have ended up retro-fitting an original (factory) electric lumbar adjustment from a breaker. This has helped somewhat. Renault 16. Surely the softest seats ever!
  14. How odd... My 'DIY silicone spray fix' still appears to be working. I applied some more spray as a precautionary measure whilst the wheels were off and the brakes were being cleaned about 2 months ago. HTH.
  15. Hi Peter, Diagnosing a noise remotely can be difficult. I'm making a few assumptions here and I'm happy to be corrected; I'm not a mechanic btw, it's just a vague interest! My thought was that the engine has suffered a build up of carbon inside the EGR circuit (and also the engine as well) that is beyond normal for a hybrid of your mileage, and that it might be down due to your usage. Slow driving with frequent turn off (e.g. for verbal instruction?), will not get the engine fully hot. Engine deposits will more readily form in that situation, I would think your routine is badly suited to preventing this e.g. not much fast or motorway driving or heavy acceleration (understandably). The noises might be due to engine pre-ignition or detonation. If the car detects these (it has a dedicated sensor) it will rapidly adjust the ignition timing to stop this from happening to protect itself, the engine output will drop a little while this happens, maybe aggravating or even causing the poor running. I would suggest using a Tesco Momentum or Shell V-Power type fuel to see if the problem is helped, this should happen as soon as it gets through to the engine. It is the higher octane rating of these fuels that is desirable here, rather than any detergent additives. If it makes no difference then the problem lies somewhere else. I'm assuming you haven't tried this already, and that your driving patterns are as described. Does it use any oil btw? Has the car always been used for driving instruction? The EGR cleaning is straightforward, the engine is worked on from above. The hardest/longest part is getting the crud out the cooler, this is best left to soak (Mechanic's time cost alert!) for some hours. In an ideal situation, overnight. Goodness knows what your dealer might charge for something left cleaning overnight. No special Toyota or hybrid knowledge is needed for all this repair, finding out where the taxi drivers go for repairs could save you loads here. Dishwasher powder and a wine bottle cork are what works best for cleaning the cooler. As a DIY proposition (i.e. no labour cost), just to give you an idea, I would look at the expense as being: some anti freeze, any exhaust type gaskets that get damaged (maybe none), some dishwasher powder, 2 x spray cans of brake or carburettor cleaner, a suitable bottle brush, plenty of rags. In the next generation of this engine (Prius 4, CHR, soon-to-be-released Auris) this EGR circuit is completely redesigned for better 'efficiency' say Toyota. The EGR is now fed from after the catalyst so all the gunky hydrocarbons will have been burnt off before they can foul things up in the EGR circuit. Problem solved. Hopefully it won't be any of this, and it turns out to be something simpler and more interesting.