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Gerg last won the day on November 15 2020

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    Auris Hybrid
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  1. Except, is this just for fleet buyers any more? With the huge rise in PCP deal take-up, a great chunk of new car owners don't have to care, too. Are they not in a similar position to the fleet managers when it comes to arranging a new car: they are only concerned with how much the monthly payments are? If I am understanding the popularity of PCPs correctly, we have a vast number of people who don't own the cars they drive, so good maintenance and longevity may not have to figure highly in the choosing of many of them (I would expect members of this forum to be excluded from this broad generalisation!). And, as a side issue, the thoroughness of main agent servicing is less likely to be scrutinised when the car you drive is only in your 'possession' for a few years - as long as there's a stamp in the book to show the service took place, who's bothered if something gets missed off?
  2. This thread from some while back is still valid, I think. I have done just as you are intending to do on a couple of Aurises of the same model and age. Just occasionally, some one will sell all the parts you need on eBay, as they sell on their Auris. A 'safety spare' (narrow tyre) is all you can fit in the boot space of the hybrid, I've tried a full size wheel just to check, it doesn't work! Basically, you need a safety spare wheel, a clamp bolt to secure this to the boot floor, a modified plastic boot trim panel that fits around the boot lock area and your existing tools and jack. It doesn't fit together that well as a package though - the facelift Auris after 2015 has all this properly incorporated into a redesigned boot floor trim.
  3. Whilst it's not going to affect your car's reliability, when I considered buying the same car some years back, I noticed that plenty of those I visited had damaged or missing parcel shelves - it would seem they won't suffer rough handling, and they're surprisingly expensive! If I remember correctly, the plastic reinforced pivot point gets broken away from the rest of the shelf. Also, the T-Spirit alloys are very prone to kerbing damage. Every car I looked at had some degree of this, and a few were horrendous.
  4. I certainly haven't. But I've seen a few Prius gen 2 on eBay and Autotrader a few years back (when I last looked) that were sold as 'spares or repairs' with dead traction batteries in their description, these were usually around 15 years old, and sometimes a little more. On the Lexus Owners Club website, some owners of GS450h have had battery problems, sometimes at a little less than 15 years (13?), if I remember correctly, anyway. On the HybridLife website (mainly continental western Europe) I think I have now seen an early Prius gen 3 or two with problems. And just a few French gen 2 owners have travelled to UK Toyota dealers for a traction battery replacement, and made a short break of it, as there are some reasonable savings to be made from that! In every case where I've seen a battery failure diagnosis, it is almost invariably the cells in the middle of the pack (that get the least cooling) that cause this. The worst location for short battery life seems to be the French island of Reunion, near Madagascar (that is the same island that caused our UK government to close our borders with mainland France about 18 months back, because of the poor Reunion Covid-19 statistics; the government did not realise that it is actually in the Indian Ocean). Anyway, it's very, very hilly, hot and humid there. The batteries are sometimes failing after around five or six years, again if I remember correctly. Their owners pop up on HybridLife forum with battery problems, but when they report where they are from, there is no longer any surprise from the other posters. Don't buy a secondhand Toyota hybrid from Reunion Island - today's Top Tip. Slightly off-topic here - Wednesday's Fun Fact: Plague (both types) still regularly occur in Madagascar. As does Ebola, I think. This wasn't accurately reflected in those Dreamworks cartoons. Shame. Excuse the long post.
  5. I wouldn't expect any maintenance problems with the car, it's catalytic converter theft that should be your biggest concern. If this vulnerability hasn't already been attended to, then I would make plans to fix this. It doesn't have to be a particularly expensive task, starting from ~£30, unfitted. The official Toyota Catloc 'solution' (I think they do one for your model) is at the upper end of the pricing scale, at around £250, fitted. The hybrid batteries seem to last around 15 years, but your extremely low mileage makes that a little harder to estimate. There is a lot of engineering idiosyncrasies in the Toyota hybrids, but you don't need to know about them - you can just drive it like any automatic. Having said that, if you are watching the hybrid battery gauge on the dash, don't expect it to fill right up in normal use, they're not supposed to! That's normal. It'll generally top-out at 3/4 full, unless it's especially hilly where you live. Best of luck with the new car!
  6. That the Yaris is the smallest Toyota hybrid, might draw you to question if the downsizing has caused the various hybrid parts to become less durable. Whilst I don't own a Yaris, I've yet to see any evidence of that at all! The engines themselves of all Toyota hybrids are not especially different to their normal petrol cars, and the transmission, which is completely different (!), is ultra-reliable, and has no special or expensive maintenance requirements. But the average mileages of Yarises in general are relatively low in comparison to Priuses and some Aurises, where the cars are often worked quite hard. Also, importantly as the economy goes down the pan, the theft of the Yaris's catalytic converters is almost completely unheard of. This is arguably down to a different design/location of the exhaust pipework; making 'scumbag access' much, much harder. Nothing to do with reliability but, It might be worth seeing how a Yaris hybrid fares with your Cumbrian terrain - it might get a bit noisy on some of those inclines...
  7. A good many years back, a large, local tyre and exhaust centre offered wheel balancing on the car. I wonder if doing this type of wheel balancing (which may not exist any more) might show up an out-of-balance brake disk? I've never heard of brake disks being out of kilter that way, but counterfeit spare parts are a problem; perhaps they have been changed before you owned it...
  8. There is no easy way of changing the DRL LEDs. Certainly, from a dealer point of view, a new headlamp would be fitted, which would be in the order of £400 for the part. (The bumper has to be removed to allow access for the headlamp to come out, by the way.) Was the car's last service done at a Toyota dealer? If it was, then the car may be covered by the 10 year Toyota 'Relax' warranty, but there is a mileage cap on this, I think. How many miles has the car done? The headlamp's shell is in two halves, clipped and glued together with a mastic sealant. If the halves are split open, then the faulty electronics are then accessible to attempt a 'specialist' repair. This has been done on Avensis headlamps, using a domestic oven to soften the sealant and allow it to be prised apart. But this all requires good DIY skills and a handy and willing electronics bod - plus there is some risk this can all go wrong! New electronic parts have to be identified and sourced too. I think in so far as this forum is concerned, you would be the first Auris owner to go down that repair route...
  9. No and yes. With the dealer replaced column, it took three visits to fix the problem, although they were working from the Toyota TSB. Regreasing was the thing they did on the first visit, although they didn't explain specifically what they greased. I'd made the assumption that it was the lower splines. As it was under warranty I didn't want to get involved with this. On the second one I tried all other options first, to no avail, obviously. The breaker supplied (eBay) steering column was low mileage and quite cheap at around £50 IIRC. For what it's worth, on the Auris, the column is made by a company in Wales; JTEKT, who are part-owned by Toyota. Aurises made after 2015 don't suffer this problem, it would be nice to know how the column manufacture was updated. I have an idea that the Toyota price for the whole column was around £900.
  10. I have two cheap cigarette lighter voltmeters; bought at different times and from different sellers, but both through Aliexpress. They have a simple digital display, so not like your one. On one occasion, I was trying them 'back to back' as I was getting readings that were a little unexpected on several cars. I had the use of an adjustable, table-top DC power supply, so attached them to that. What I found was that their displayed reading on a slowly rising voltage differed by as much as 0.15v over that displayed on a slowly lowering voltage. This was on both plug-in meters, and confirmed with a standalone conventional DVM at the same time. Whilst this a very small mis-measurement, and not on the same type of meter as yours, with the level of accuracy you are working with I thought this was worth mentioning as a possible small variable. Similarly to you, on my daughter's Auris hybrid, after a having a variety of long drives in daylight, a CTEK MX5 charger was used on the 12v battery, just as an experiment (that charger is quite new to me). It took 4 hours to report that it had finished charging. Pre-charging, the battery sat at 12.2 volts. But, the battery is 9 years old, so maybe that is not representative! Although that battery has never failed to start the car.
  11. I've had this problem on two Aurises. One was under warranty - which took several trips to the dealer to fix (complete new column fitted in the end). The other one was out of warranty. In that case, I bought a secondhand Auris Mk2 facelift steering column (which is known to not suffer this 'clicking' problem), and tried fitting the top half of the 'new' column to the existing lower half; because it was an easier job than replacing the whole assembly. That difference between the two (old vs new) column splines was enough to reduce the spline clearance sufficiently to stop the clicking. Although this difference wasn't remotely visible, understandably, and I didn't try measuring it. The grease on the telescoping splines (in the pictures) is as the car came from the factory - not especially thick. That seemed to do the trick for me. Your Yaris column will be a different design, but not by much, I'm sure. These pictures might give you an idea what yours probably looks like, and where the splines live relative to the dashboard. In the last picture, the gently tapered end piece and narrow splines, is where the steering wheel fits.
  12. I had a very similar problem on an Auris Mk2 mirror when it was hit by a large bird. In that situation the part that you are intending to glue was probably too highly stressed for glue to help repair it. While I looked into finding a new mirror, I did repair it with a hollow, modified bolt that I had had made by a local engineering company, to repair another mirror on an different car some years earlier! That bolt fitted down the middle of the hollow tube that has snapped in your mirror base. The flexible cable (wiring loom) went inside the bolt. (Lower picture) Obviously, you won't have this bolt and don't want to go to these lengths. I'm mentioning this as an example of how awkward it is for the mirror to be put back together. The spring that squeezes the two parts together in normal use (the two parts that you want to glue together) is very strong indeed (red arrow is pointing to this). On the Auris there is a lower decorative cover (blue arrow) that can be levered off, so that you then have access to the top and bottom of the snapped plastic part, so you could try clamping them together. But you are sharing space with the wiring loom that goes down the same hole. But you'll need a selection of washers and bolts to find the 'correct' size to make the temporary repair! In our case this repair lasted for a few months until a good secondhand part was available. Perhaps the C-HR mirror is similar?
  13. In the Prius (and so the RAV?), on a warm startup, the engine turns two revolutions with no ignition/injection, then starts two cylinders up, then (how long after? I can't remember exactly, one revolution? It was a while ago when I read it...!) fires on all four cylinders as per usual. This is done for a smooth startup, I read in a technical description somewhere, but also presumably for lubrication reasons.
  14. From flash22's video and diagram it looks like there are two fans. FWIW, I am responsible for the maintenance of a couple of Auris hybrids, so I am just an interested owner. Our cars have never given any problems in this area, and are a much, much simpler design with easier access to the battery and even more so the fan. This area of your car (the console) is where the high voltage batteries live, clearly. The voltages exposed under some of these battery covers will be over 200 volts, so potentially deadly. The bloke in the video is wearing insulating gloves to give an extra level of personal protection! At a dealers that would be mandatory equipment, no question. You would need a pair of these too. After seeing how the battery pack is located and constucted, I would think very carefully where you go with a DIY fix. If you're not completly comfortable with your skills and/or training in this type of area, then an electrical specialist should get involved. I would expect a toothbrush, a regular, narrow paint brush and a vacuum cleaner should be enough to clean the fans, but that will be the easy part of doing this, I now see after watching the video!
  15. [Flash just beat me with his reply to this!] The Estima does have a more complicated cooling air path than almost all other Toyota hybrids! Interesting video, the battery isn't in the boot. So forget about looking for any grilles there. Might be worth getting the error codes checked after you've looked for obvious blockages around the centre console air intakes; as the fans are so inaccessible.
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