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Gerg last won the day on January 24

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About Gerg

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    Auris Hybrid
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  1. On the early gen 3 Prius cars (2009 - 2010?), there was a recall for a software update that related to the inverter, I believe. If I understood this correctly, owners reported that they noticed that low-speed electric performance was weaker after the code had been updated. On another forum I read that the code upgrade was to prevent some early life failures that were occurring on the inverter. Perhaps it is to protect the inverter or extend the battery's life? The gen 4 engine (2016 Prius, C-HR, new Corolla) has reduced the 'mooing' that you mention that the gen 3 engines descend into when accelerating with any spirit. This gen 4 engine is largely the same as the gen 3, I believe, but the transmission is all-new, and now uses two internal shafts instead of one. This has allowed different internal gearing, and perhaps different electric motor dimensions (and therefore safe rotational speeds?). The net result is that the 'mooing' is reduced, and the electric drive will work up to a higher speed etc. The drive is better, the economy is better, yet the total 'system' horsepower is less. Odd. I wish I knew.
  2. Just as an update:- I was working on another 13 plate Auris with the suspension creak. It was worse than the first one and was particularly prone to creaking whilst braking over bumps, even light braking caused it. No work had been carried out to cure this beforehand. The car had done 54,000 miles. I sprayed silicone oil over the suspension bushes located at the front of the suspension lower arms, one on each side of the car. This improved the situation but definitely did not stop it completely. A week or so later, I applied more spray to the front bushes, but the noise persisted. A week or more later I sprayed the silicone oil over the rearmost bushes on the front lower arms (these ones are a much more accessible rubber disc, lying horizontally). This has stopped the noise, I have not heard it at all in the last two weeks. I have not applied any oils or greases to the anti-roll bar rubbers or the rubber strut top-mounts. HTH.
  3. I have found this website useful for finding out wheel sizes:- But as Catlover says above, there is usually a stamping of the wheel size. I'd look on the front, near the bolt holes. It'll say something like 5.5Jx15 ET45 or 5Jx14 ET39 But there are other sizes listed on that website.
  4. Re: aftermarket filters. I don't buy Bosch oil filters for our 2001 Corolla 1.4 vvti. (the same oil filter as yours?) I bought a Bosch oil filter from ECP, it only went on about 1 1/4 turns before it was fully tightened up. Looking at the thread, it's set further away from the sealing face. I told Bosch technical dept. of the problem, but they didn't seem interested. All Toyota and Mann branded ones ones have been fine on the previous 13-odd oil changes on this car.
  5. Yes. Sadly, in my experience, this is normal.
  6. This is a picture from an American Youtube video about fitting extra anti-roll and chassis strengthening gubbins to their version of a Yaris. Ignore all that, it has a great lump of...? hanging from the wheel well. Perhaps some anti-smog, exhaust evaporative thing for US markets, similar brackets would never have been put on a French made body, would they? Just a thought.
  7. Gerg

    Auxiliary Lights

    Perhaps something like these MINI lamps:- The wiring should be very straightforward. Where to bolt them though? On the original Mini, was there not, as well as bolt on lights, an aftermarket radiator grill/spotlight combo available, where the lights were sunken right into the grille??
  8. You are right about the unsprung weight. The Excel 17" wheel/tyre weighs about 20.6 kg, the 16 inch wheel/tyre is around 18.5 kg and the 15" wheel/tyre that used to be fitted to some Auris up until 2015 is about 16.5 kg. The Toyota safety spare is 12 kg, for what it's worth. I have driven with the 15" and 17" in the last few days, and I am 'settling-in' some 16" wheels/tyres currently to see how they fit in the scheme of things. These were all different brands of tyre and different degrees of wear, though. On an Excel, the larger front brakes stop you experimenting with 15" wheels, but the 16" wheels should fit, if you so choose, but they are fairly snug. Its a big enough gap to fit wheel balancing weights on he inside of the wheel without any problems. On the Prius (so Auris too?) the different wheel sizes, when fitted at the factory, result in Toyota coding the ABS/stability control ECU with slightly different values. There is a number in there for tyre 'performance', which may include wheel inertia. If I remember correctly, the standard dampers are made by Japanese company KYB (Kayaba) in Spain. I am not aware of uprated dampers being available, but then I haven't looked too hard.
  9. Our (replacement Toyota Optibrite HIR2) bulbs failed nearly together after 15,000 miles use. I had to go and rescue the car (no lights) when it happened, as the spare bulbs were not in the car. I was amazed. I'd go for the bulbs as the failing items!
  10. In the UK you can arrange for custom-made springs from these people:- Perhaps of no use to you in your part of the world. Nothing to do with dampers, but what trim level/tyre size does your car have? Depending on your model, you could always fit the bigger wheels/lower profile tyres from the next model up, assuming your insurance company agrees, of course. Your mpg will drop and the ride quality will suffer, but the car will feel sportier!
  11. I haven't studied your wiring diagram, but I think you'll find the high beam/low beam is done by just one bulb. A solenoid operated mask cuts off some of the beam for dip operation. If you listen carefully you can hear it 'clunk' when you operate high beam. So a designed-in single point of failure. Wow. Worth keeping a spare in the car!
  12. Your problem sounds like this one in the link:-
  13. I think the 380 stop/tail P21/5w bulb (the bulb that is used here?) was definitely always an offset bayonet. I have seen it before where someone has managed to get them in the wrong way round. It's easier still if the bulb holder is a bit loose to start with, then the bulb can 'bayonet' with only one lug engaged and the other one squeezed against the inside of the holder.
  14. Further to Aaron's post, I think that there were a few modified piston, ring and head gasket part numbers in the first year of Prius production, 2009-2010. In this link :- a Canadian owner, Mendel Leisk , lists the part numbers from 2010 onwards in post no.20. But just to confuse, by convention, the Americans call a 2009 car a '2010 model year' . So the exact year starts to get a little vague. This table is for US and Canadian market Prius, but I don't know why this shouldn't also apply to European Prius and Auris. Whilst any likelihood can be discounted in this case, just for reference, the OP's friend's car's mileage could be confirmed as genuine by reading estimated mileage total (in kms, actually) that exists in the engine ECU and is viewable through Techstream etc. This cannot be changed easily, unlike the speedo/odometer. It would be an easy car to clock as they hide their mileage so well.
  15. I've just re-read the original post. I take it that all this repair work has been completed? I was reading 'bill' as 'future bill', i.e. a bill that will be coming after the work has been agreed to. My misunderstanding was that you were looking for advice on whether the garages diagnosis was correct and that their price is fair. Whoops.