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Gerg last won the day on April 14 2018

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About Gerg

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  • Toyota Model
    Auris Hybrid
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  1. Gerg

    Looking for PID codes for Auris hybrid 2010

    You are welcome. 'Hybrid Assistant' is a must-have if you are at all interested in what's going on beyond the limited dash info. There's so much there you'll want someone else to drive the car whilst you study the displays, so as not to get distracted! Hybrid Assistant seems to work fine with the ELM OBDII adapter that I bought for 'Torque', the Dr Hybrid app seems a bit more picky, it complains about the adapter, but seems to work anyway. I believe that it is the middle cells of the pack that are most likely to age first, they get the least cooling effect from the fan and consequently run a little hotter. Hybrid Assistant allows you to test out the battery fan, as well as showing the overall battery temperature.
  2. Gerg

    Looking for PID codes for Auris hybrid 2010

    I don't have an answer to that question, but, you might like to try the apps 'Hybrid Assistant' (free) or 'Doctor Prius' (free - but payment for further features). The second one offers battery testing as well, but at extra cost.
  3. Gerg

    White residue near battery

    This wouldn't get delivered soon enough to be of use for this problem, but this is quite handy (if your cigarette socket is easily seen), and barely more than £1 including postage from China:- I have one of these, its reading is consistantly 0.1v down against a 'proper' digital voltmeter. So probably accurate enough for this kind of job.
  4. Gerg

    2013 Auris - Lost Smartkey :( replacement?

    I had a look at this a while back. If I remember correctly, the smartkey has a unique code that stays with the smartkey. You use Techstream to configure that code into the cars list of smartkeys. But I think it is the case that you have to delete all smartkeys before you can make a new list that would include the latest key. If this is true, that must lead to a fairly tense few minutes whilst you have no keys assigned to your car. You would have to make sure your laptop didn't run out of battery etc, etc.! Perhaps someone could confirm if this is the case?
  5. Gerg

    electric/pneumatic lumbar support died.

    On an Auris, I have recently made up one seat from two 'bad' ones. The pneumatic-style lumbar adjustment mechanism (air pump and bag and switch) was in the 'new' (breakers yard) seat, but not the old one, and was transferred across. So I have seen some of the Auris lumbar mechanism close up. I would expect it to be the same design in your car as both cars are from the same Toyota plant, and almost certainly the seats are made by Johnson Controls for Toyota, probably nearby (expensive to transport otherwise?). The inflate/deflate valve and pump are wrapped together in thin grey, vinyl wallet and live at the base of the seat back on the r/h side, on the inside of the major steel side support. On the Auris you can just see this module if the rear seat panel is unzipped completely (the Auris has two vertical zips on the seat back). Just follow the air tube back from the bladder in the seat back. I had no reason to look inside the vinyl bag to get a view of the motor/valve, as I had tested the unit out of the car before fitting. The unit is quite small and a label says it is made in Poland. It is almost completely silent in deflate mode, by the way, just a single click. It has three wires going to to the pump/valve, I imagine these are 12v. to air pump, ground, and 12v. to air release valve. Dismantling the seat is actually quite straightforward. Getting the seat out of the car is very tight, but you may not have to! Expect to find some rust on the seat frame, and look out for sharp edges on the steel pressings! I have no idea of the cost of this part, but this is a Toyota, so I would expect around £1bn + vat. But you may get a small discount if you ask nicely (10%). This picture is of the seat back without foam etc. as seen from the dashboard point of view. HTH
  6. Gerg

    Handbrake Light Coming On.

    This is very likely to be a warning of low brake fluid in the master cylinder. Inspecting the brake fluid level is the first thing to check. Obviously, topping it up will stop the warning light coming on, but, the bigger question is, is it leaking out from somewhere??? As you almost certainly know, the brake fluid level will gradually drop down as the brake pads wear. Topping up isn't usually necessary. Close monitoring of the level would be good!
  7. Gerg

    Poor headlights using HIR2 bulbs confirmed?

    Yes, it does. If you look at the following two pictures (which are as the headlamp would sit in the car) the first is with the shutter down (main beam), the second is with the shutter up (dip beam). Fwiw, the picture I put up in the previous post was upside-down to make the beam cut-off more self-evident. The shutter operating solenoid is being held open against its spring (by my fingers) in the first picture. It's the same Auris Mk2 facelift headlamp as before, this headlamp has had some accident damage; the rear outer case was broken, so easily removed to take these pictures and get to the solenoid mechanism. The headlamp internals looked completely undamaged. This headlight belongs to a breakers, fwiw. The shutter doesn't move anything like as much as I had expected. The darkened circular centre of the shutter is presumably there to reduce reflections that might come directly from the filament, perhaps. It might be interesting to hear from someone who understands these things to explain what is good design here, or not. The last picture is just a side view with some of the shutter solenoid and its connector visible.
  8. On the Auris the reverse light is on the hatch as well, and the loom then passes through a rubber boot into the headlining. It then drops down to behind the left hand boot liner before heading the forwards past the l/h rear seat squab. I think the liner is going to have to come out anyway to find a home for the control unit that the sensors need. If you can do that on a warm(er) day it might make the trim clips easier to pop out without damage. If you think you have found the correct wire, you could carefully ubik the wire with a fine needle so you could meter that conductor to the back light fitting. Don't forget that when testing for the reverse light, it may not get powered when the car thinks the boot lid is up. You could sort that by putting a (philips no.2?) screwdriver blade sideways into the lock to simulate the latch being engaged. Just don't close the hatch until you've released/opened the lock again.
  9. Gerg

    Poor headlights using HIR2 bulbs confirmed?

    Except I don't remember being headlamp-dazzled, I mean really badly blinded, as much in the past as I do nowadays. (Obviously I have to make allowances for my aging eyes here, of course). It's not just from d-i-y HID 'upgraded' reflector-type headlamps in older cars either, it's also the latest cars, usually with LED lighting. Special mention to Nissan Qashqai and Juke, Mazda CX5 and Range Rovers here. If I understand it correctly, in the HIR2 type headlamp the bulbs are themselves high output, but the light is then blocked off by the bi-halogen headlamp design (see photo of Auris Mk2 headlamp, the view forwards from just behind the bulb fitting). Blocking off so much of the source output might be ok when you have plenty of light to start off with (i.e. bi-xenon headlights), but with a halogen bulb there's just not enough when facing an onslaught of LEDs, especially when caught underneath their beam cutoff e.g. approaching a humpback bridge etc. I assume that the beam is blocked off in this design (rather than efficiently reflected back into the headlamp) as otherwise it would be a cause of glare, this by virtue of it not originating directly from the bulb and its first reflection. At least with a conventional (i.e. old technology) reflector headlamp all of the light produced is usefully directed out the front with no mask, apart from the cap fitted to the end of the bulb (e.g. H4). Our old Corolla headlamps (E11 - 2001) are quite large by comparison to the Auris's, so wouldn't they fit in with the modern design 'theme', but their output makes the newer ones look quite poor by comparison. despite the newer car having upgraded bulbs.
  10. Gerg

    Poor headlights using HIR2 bulbs confirmed?

    They use HIR2 bulbs in some Vauxhall Insignias and all Amperas. Here are some owners' thoughts.... Not very different to your own thoughts, Mick.
  11. Gerg

    ride quality

    Perhaps one of the wheel balance weights has been knocked off the wheel when it has been offered back up to the hub after brake work, maybe it was accidently hit against the brake disk or the dust shield when the wheel went back on? If so, the wheels now need re-balancing. I think the 'Gold' service includes a brake caliper dismantle/clean, doesn't it? That would make sense for the locking wheel nut key requirement.
  12. Gerg

    Automatic gearbox problems

    The second link does not seem to work reliably, if it just takes you to an oil guide, then try googling this:- " previa transmission fluids"
  13. Gerg

    Automatic gearbox problems

    Hi Roland, this Youtube video might help you locate the transmission dipstick. I can't help with your other questions I'm afraid. This link has some excellent technical information as well as oil specifications:- As well as lubricating and cooling the transmission, the transmission oil pressure is valved to control some transmission functions in other parts of the mechanism, if the level is much too low these can't work, which can give some strange problems. Best of luck!
  14. Gerg

    MPG issue after service and tyre change.

    I'm sure this is a case of teaching my grandma to suck eggs, but just in case, as you're mpg chasing, how about these long shots.... Have the servicing dealer dropped the pressure in your tyres at the service (maybe you were running them at slightly elevated pressures or your gauge doesn't agree with theirs)? Has the tracking moved out of spec. after a pothole etc.? (I believe this is checked during a major service, (but adjustment is an extra cost), so should be good). Have you got the heating controls set differently to how you had them when the car was new? Does the hand(foot) brake feel like its been adjusted during the service (i.e. could it be dragging sightly)? FWIW, the 'factory-fill' oil could be from a different manufacturer to the Toyota dealer supplied oil in Europe, although this must surely be of miniscule relevance. But it could benefit the cars during official emissions testing and road tests if a slightly thinner (or running-in?) oil was used during the original build. Just wildly speculating here!
  15. Gerg

    Does anyone know what has caused this damage

    Insert other media The bumper has been hit and deformed as it is hollow behind. Eventually it has struck part of the bumper reinforcement which is steel and sits an inch or so behind the plastic skin. But, this is secured by four sizeable bolts with protruding heads (on each side), part of the plastic bumper has been forced to adopt the shape of the bolt head behind it, as it has pressed hard against it. The bumper has sprung back after what ever has hit it has moved away, but the portion that has been stretched over the bolt head still bears the mark. That's my guess anyway.