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Everything posted by Gerg

  1. As it happens, I've just cleaned up our back brakes. The car, as above, has done 82k. The outer brake pad was still sliding Ok-ish, but the inner one was not moving as it should at all. But the handbrake and braking generally were still fine. The brakes were still over 6.5mm on both pads. Are you happy that the MoT history, service history and condition of the car matches the mileage? The original equipment brake pads are Bosch on our cars - you can sometimes make this out if the road wheel is in the right place, as per this picture, with the Bosch logo in the centre.
  2. I've not had anything remotely similar happening in the two Aurises that I sometimes drive. As has been said above; on light to moderate braking the car will use battery regeneration to slow the car. As you brake harder the l/h dash gauge will go to maximum deflection (so, anticlockwise) on the 'CHG' segment. This is maximum regeneration, if you brake harder, the car will start to use the regular brakes as well to slow the car more rapidly. Once the car slows to around 5 mph, regardless of how gently you are braking, but assuming you still are, then the regen is replaced by the mechanical (conventional) brakes, at which point the general quietness of the car can make the brakes sound a little rough, like they're grinding even, as you come to complete halt. With familiarity you can hear that 5 mph transition - a soft 'clunk' will come from the brakes, if you are braking gently anyway. The brake pedal effort, and its 'feel' during all of this, is calculated/interpreted by the braking computer and the pump assembly that lives just behind the brake pedal. It's a kind of engineering 'con-trick', so you can drive the car as a normal automatic with no adaptation on your part. As Tony mentions above, perhaps you need the brakes checking/dismantling, maybe the dealer has had them apart and not got discs and hubs cleaned down properly (rust/crud!) before reassembling them, so that the discs don't run flat to the hubs. I've never heard of this either, but that doesn't mean that your local dealer hasn't done it whist they were trying to service the car. How many miles has the car done? I can't remember if you said it's got full service history. The brakes wear very slowly, but they do seize up and rust as they don't do much work and get 'nice and hot' occasionally. One of our cars has done 82,000 miles, the brakes are only just half worn, if that, and most days it's driven by people who are interested in economy!
  3. I don't think that fan problem is common, but the seat heater problem is.
  4. I think that your over-fill by the dealer is not going to do any harm. Just as background, a very similar predecessor to your engine had a problem diagnosed by Toyota as partly to do with the engine oil running too hot. Part of the fix for this was to increase the amount of oil in the engine by creating a new, higher 'upper' dipstick mark. See the posts in this thread (which is only put here to inform about oil levels - not the oil burning) by Devon Aygo and Sproutdreamer. Sproutdreamer is experimenting with a deliberate 12mm overfill, with no problems reported. Just as more background, we have an Auris that, when I bought it privately, secondhand, had recently had a full Toyota service. I extracted over half a litre of oil to get the dipstick down to the 'upper' level on that car. It's very common problem. IIRC, the dipstick on that car was showing an over-fill twice as big as yours. I did this as I was curious as to the volume involved. I used 6mm OD plastic pipe and an equestrian syringe (just a big syringe - 80ml). Perhaps you've got something similar in the lab?
  5. I had some Toyota warranty work done on our Mk2 Auris (for a suspension noise), this was replacing the strut top bearings, as per a TSB. Even though the car was low mileage and about 4 years old, the main dealer cut the anti-roll bar drop links off with a gas torch, as they couldn't get the nuts off (or maybe they couldn't get them off easily enough?). So new drop links had to be sourced (from another dealer) before the job was finished. If you can get some penetrating oil on these fasteners a few days beforehand, then this may not be such a problem for you. Getting the old drop links off, especially if intending to reuse them, could take time and a bit of patience. The dealer missed off a part (a weather-sealing washer) on reassembly. I noticed this just as I politely asked to see the old, replaced parts - the washer was still attached to one of them! It was easier to do the job again myself, rather than go through all the faff of booking, waiting, courtesy cars etc. It was quite easy, but all the 'difficult' fasteners had recently been undone once by them, so that wasn't any surprise.
  6. I had a similar problem on a 2006 2.0 petrol Mazda 6 (electronic throttle body) some years back. But I had no definite conclusion as to the fix. The 'flat spot', once it started, was there all the time and slowly got worse. The previous day, I had filled the car up at the local large, busy petrol station. I noticed that a tanker was doing a routine fuel delivery at the same time. Some people suggest that fuel deliveries can disturb the crud that accumulates in the underground fuel tanks at garages, and that this can be delivered to your fuel tank. I had never seen this problem myself. The next day I had a 160 mile trip to do. At around half way, the car started to present the symptoms you describe, just without the going-up-hill bit being very evident. I got the car home, but the point at which the car hit the 'flat spot' got slower and slower as the journey progressed. By the time I got back it would barely reach 30 mph. I complained to the petrol station about the car's problem, but they denied all knowledge, and said there fuel handling procedures met the relevant British Standards. Whatever. The next day, I removed the back seat cushions and removed the in-tank petrol gauge and pick-up filter, which was a thoroughly unpleasant and potentially dangerous job. I dismantled the unit as much as I could when it was away the car, but found no muck at all, or any obvious problems. The filter on that car was a simple, and fairly crude, nylon mesh. When I reassembled everything the problem had completely disappeared, and didn't come back while I had the car (5 months?) Nothing else on the car was disturbed, and there were no warning lamps showing at any time. HTH
  7. Good question. It goes a long way. I'd expect that tube (80ml) to do, er... at least 20 calipers (40 pins)? Probably more.
  8. I think the rubber sleeves that you refer to are designed to reduce the caliper moving excessively. If the caliper has got excessive movement, it usually results in a 'clunk' that can be heard inside the car. I've never heard of someone leaving them off. I've used silicone grease in that part of the brake caliper to good effect over many years, on many different cars, whenever I'm lubing those pins during a service. The silicone grease is very kind to the rubber (any rubber), and is highly water repellant. I'm using a general purpose silicone grease from Radio Spares (because I got it for nothing), but silicone grease is probably easily obtained from a local boat chandler etc. Or the usual eBay, Amazon sources etc. Like this one, that is the first one to come up on a random Amazon search: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverhook-SGPGT90-Silicone-Grease-Tube/dp/B00W6Q3B1G/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Silicone%2BGrease&qid=1633981813&qsid=261-1110736-5946547&sr=8-5&sres=B00W6Q3B1G%2CB086QBNSRT%2CB088361TCJ%2CB000GISJ9A%2CB08VWBXDZ5%2CB0058223PU%2CB07JP4RV7J%2CB00295DBQE%2CB07VZ6746G%2CB01M8MBEV4%2CB01M9GVQ8F%2CB006O7HTDE%2CB0882YFGWR%2CB00S1CB22O%2CB000GIQIKM%2CB01N7VUCZ3%2CB00PDFDPIG%2CB07XZDY64P%2CB008HI0O6W%2CB081B4XK8T&th=1 Notice the third review down on this product has had a problem that might be similar to yours! But, be careful not to get it in your eyes, as being water repellant it'll sting a lot. Also, over the long term, silicone lubricant can cause some hard plastics to age and crack - not relevant to brakes at all, obviously, it's just not suitable for lubing everything!
  9. ....Also, on this forum, official Toyota dealer/forum member "Parts-King" might be able to offer a modest discount on a new genuine part, if you send him a private message of what you are after, with your reg. or VIN number included.
  10. Perhaps this site might help you for the part numbers: http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2013/avensis/ As a guide, a new one (complete, unpainted) from the dealers is likely around £350. The painted cover is available (unpainted) separately from Toyota (around £40-ish) The cover will quite easily unclip (if it's reusable), for putting on a secondhand mirror. If buying secondhand, the wiring socket could be one of two different types, depending on if it electrically folds or not (well, it is on an Auris). Worth bearing that in mind. I have a strong suspicion the available parts from Toyota will simply be:- mirror glass, painted cover, the rest of the mirror. So your missing bits will have to come secondhand. A picture of the damaged mirror mechanism might help here. Perhaps someone can correct this if it's wrong?
  11. I have a good idea the pipe runs along the drivers side sill and then up the 'C' pillar into the roof. The plastic sill covers pull off, but you might need to pay attention to the boot and petrol flap release levers; as they may get in the way a little. I don't think grit is always the problem, it is often down to weird bacterial growth in the plastic reservoir getting drawn into the pipes. If you need pressure to dislodge foreign bodies in the pipes, you could always try a regular foot pump, or bicycle hand pump, with a plastic, tapering, soft-toy-inflator adapter fitted. Some caution required, obviously! It could even be crud immediately behind the rear washer jet, as this is probably the biggest restriction point.
  12. What a terrible situation to be put in. I'm sure you've considered going to another Toyota dealer. I imagine that the dealer you have been to is one of the Steven Eagell chain. I have no knowledge of them except as a customer, but I have met/chatted to people who have met the man himself - he exists and is still very much in charge! There seems to be a consensus that he is actually a decent bloke, and takes letters and emails sent to him very seriously. You might try explaining the situation directly to him. I don't have an email address, but I'm certain it could easily be found. He runs the biggest Toyota dealer network in Europe now, fwiw. I suspect that you're the guinea pig here, there will probably be a TSB when enough people report this problem, but you've caught all the cr@p whilst this problem is established/logged at Toyota GB. I think the silencer itself is a very low grade of stainless steel (type 409 is normal across brands, I understand)), but what good is that if the welded-on brackets fail after 2 years!?
  13. Just the two bolts that need protecting. There are other identical bolts further along the exhaust system, but they are left untouched by thieves.
  14. No, your problem is much, much more obvious than mine. On our car there was only a click at the extremes of steering wheel rotation. The noise never came back on that car; I still get to drive it occasionally. I'm no expert on suspension noises, but I'd be looking at an anti-roll bar drop link having failed (having play in the knuckle). It's not mentioned on this forum as a regular failure at all, though. But first, I'd empty the car of all my belongings just to see if that helps! Or, it could be the strut (shock absorber) being loose at its top attachment (but this is unlikely if nobody has touched the car since leaving the factory). This thread has similar symptoms to yours, but I don't think Fostel (the original poster) has found a fix yet!?! So might be worth seeing what he has done so far, maybe? c
  15. As well as all the above; The hybrid battery usually lasts around about 15 years. The engine is an 'off the shelf' Toyota design, apart from some mild modifications, which don't affect it's maintenance - it's just a 'normal' engine. The big changes from a conventional car are in the transmission, which sits on the r/h side (viewed from the front). The electric motors, inverter and independent cooling system for those all live on the right of the engine bay. There are no service items/wearing components (brake bands, clutches) that you might find in other types of transmissions. The hybrid transmission is very durable; it is extremely unlikely to give you any problems. The cooling system for this is separate from the engine's - its own small radiator lives above the air conditioning radiator (condenser) - it's hard to spot where one ends and the other begins. There is no maintenance requirement for the transmission, apart from eventually changing the coolant, just as you would the engine cooling system. Some people do change the transmission oil, it's an easy job, but definitely not scheduled. They probably just like the idea of the oil being 'as new' - some owners become quite attached to these hybrid Toyotas. The 12v battery doesn't crank the engine, it just runs the car electrics up until the time high voltage battery takes over; when the 'system' is on. i.e. when the car is ready to drive off. (So that is not the case in 'accessory mode', when the 12v battery is supplying all the load, *flat battery alert!* ) The 12v battery is charged/monitored all the time the car is 'on' (ready to be driven), regardless of whether the engine is turning or not at that time. Detecting that the 12v battery may be low on charge is difficult without a voltmeter, but easy with one - the engine is started by the hybrid battery(high voltage) always, and the car never shows classic battery-low symptoms. It works perfectly up until the time it doesn't, this is part of the problem of it running low - there aren't any clues! Most of the problems have been thrown-up due to COVID-19 driving habit changes, in normal use you don't need to think about this much at all. As far as I can see, the hybrid battery (which lives directly under the back seat) weighs around 40-45 kg, and the extra weight of the transmission over a manual model is about another 45 kg. Eventually, you will turn on the air conditioning with the engine (temporarily) shut off, without the background noise of a petrol engine to mask it, the sound of the A/C pump and the radiator fans is alarming, but maybe not now.... You have likely discovered most of this already, but, hope that helps!
  16. The modified headlamps, which are what would come by default if you had new ones for some reason, widen the beam close to the car. There is also a different, known problem, with these original, (factory fitted) headlamps - the polished coating on the reflector can start to peel off. This is much rarer. To the OP, you've probably seen this thread, if not, it's worth reading from the beginning, but page 2 is relevant about reflector peeling. In addition, have you had your headlamp beams checked recently? The MoT will flag the car if the headlamp beams are too high, but if they are too low, nothing is reported. We had a pair of headlamps changed at our Toyota dealer in Hertfordshire (the TSB related replacement), amongst the many badly reassembled and broken bits the technician caused on other parts of the car, the headlamps were set up really ridiculously low! (I'm not referring to the dash thumbwheel adjustment, btw.) You could consider going to a friendly MoT centre and asking them if the headlamps could be adjusted as high as they can be legally set, it is a very quick job - it only requires the MoT headlamp alignment tool and a No.2 point Philips screwdriver. If your car is a 2016 model, as per your profile, you have the facelifted version with different headlamps.
  17. I'm assuming you mean 'Fuse Box Cover' that has fallen into the engine bay. But I'm not sure I know what you mean now...... If it is the fuse box cover, what about..... Unbend a dry cleaning coat hanger so that it is straight, then bend a hook into the end, so as to hook the catch on the fuse box cover? Or, use duct (gaffer) tape to attach a short length of garden hose onto (into) your vacuum cleaner hose, and then use the vacuum cleaner suction to 'attach' to the cover and pull it up. Or, see if you are covered for this type of event with your breakdown recovery. I'm sure some better ideas will come along....
  18. My commiserations about your headlamps. The headlamp shutter is indeed operated by a solenoid. Unfortunately, you can only get to it after you have split the headlamp outer shell open, which it is not designed to do (clips, mastic type sealant). Removing the headlamp is a bumper off job, by the way. As it the headlamp tucks into the bumper void, a bit. If all else is lost, then there are some things you could try. I have to rush out now for a while - I could elaborate on this a little later. Which side is it on, btw? This thread has some photos of the back of the headlamp, but this headlamp has been in an accident, so was already broken open. The solenoid is at the bottom of the last picture. and attaches to the shutter via a couple of spring steel loops. If more pictures of the mechanism would be of use, then I have plenty!
  19. I was under the impression the a rear tyre losing grip (aquaplaning?) would cause a more serious loss of vehicle stability than the same happening on a front tyre, so the tyres with the best tread should go on the back, so yes, definitely a consideration if the wheels get rotated.
  20. I take it you were using 5w/30 beforehand? Do you have any figures for how much an improvement the grill block offers? What percentage of the grill is blocked? I have tried similar on other cars, but never got to work out mpg improvements. Sounds interesting! TIA
  21. Gerg

    Bolt size

    Ah, I see! Your car has steel wheels with wheel trims. From your photograph, I'd say the wheel nuts were different to the one I showed (which is the normal fitment for Toyotas with alloy wheels).
  22. Gerg

    Bolt size

    Hi, I don't have a Corolla Verso, but, does your wheel nut look like this one? If it does, were you looking for the maximum width (arrowed), or some other dimension? Across that washer shown, which is built-in, it is 30 mm in diameter.
  23. Gerg

    Aircon smell

    Ah, I see. So this cleaner:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/MANNOL-9971-Air-Conditioning-Cleaner-Anti-Bacterial/dp/B00S6BNFP2 Do report back on how long the smells are gone for!
  24. If you ignore the title of the post, then a few entries lower within it is a link to a copy of the workshop manual. That might help you after you tried all options to get this fixed with the supplying dealer. Unfortunately, the image for the relay in the manual above is exactly the same as the one you've got in your other post.
  25. Hi, Locking the car with the physical key stops the alarm from being armed. If you wish the car alarm to be armed, but want to turn off the interior sensors only (say, if you wish to leave someone in the car whilst you lock it), press the button in between the front map reading lights (in the roof), then lock the car with the key fob. The use of his button is detailed in the owners manual. It would appear that insects, especially spiders, inside the car can cause false alarms - have you taken any garden rubbish to the tidy tip recently? Maybe there is an escaped spider wondering around? Just sometimes, a failing 12v battery can cause a false alarm as the battery voltage level changes, which the alarm detects as an electrical load switching on (e.g. a door opening). This is very rare.
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