Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Established Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Gerg

  1. It would be useful/informative to other Auris owners if you would be so good as to list what work has been done. Also, is yours an >2012 (Mk1), or a 2012> (Mk2)? 2012 was the model changeover year, most were Mk1, but which one is yours? Ta.
  2. I agree with what you've said. But, contrary to what I expected, WD-40 brand Silicone Spray does list mineral oil as an ingredient! I did try to ring them a few times over the last couple of weeks about this and some other stuff; their enquiries/helpline number goes to a voicemail, which tells you that it is full and no further messages can be accepted. Cool! I've only got a very old can of the WD40 Silicone, so old that it has no ingredients on it. I've been using other brands over the years which don't list mineral oil as an ingredient, as it happens. The WD40 Silicone spray I've got does seem to have a scent added to it to make it smell fragrant (!?). The one in the photo has 'aromatics' as an ingredient. Just an FYI really! This is an up-to-date picture of one in Homebase:-
  3. Ah, OK, thanks! As an actual owner, you are the man! Before this Toyota Corolla, I'd only seen manual adjusters.
  4. There is no similar protrusion that I've ever seen on Toyotas. The bolt head on top of the suspension strut (arrowed in blue) is the popular point used for an earth connection on many other Toyotas. I'd use that. And your NOCO charger (linked to) is rated at 1 Amp, so there is no likelihood of your connection being overloaded! HTH
  5. As well as all that posted above, the characteristic of the Toyota hybrid system is that with regards the 12v battery charge, it will start perfectly, right up to the occasion when it can't start at all. The tell-tale laboured chugging that comes with a 'flattish' battery on conventional cars isn't there on the hybrid, so you don't get given audible warning regarding the charge of the 12v battery. It is much more binary. All the hard work spinning the engine is being done by the 'traction' battery. Having a multimeter or similar to check your 12v battery can pay dividends.
  6. I have a vague idea that your car has an automatic auxillary belt tensioner, the VVTi models that preceded it did. Our much older, but still VVTi Corolla, definitely has. If you have a look around the drive belt area, (with the engine off, obviously), see if you can spot something like this, which is an automatic, spring-loaded tensioner that might be the one fitted to your car, it'll be fitted fairly high up, at the windscreen side of the block/head: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174692395435?fits=Car+Make%3AToyota&hash=item28ac7a69ab:g:vEYAAOSwTvZgVDNN I don't remember hearing of a tensioner failing, fwiw, but then I'm not looking that hard. There are some on eBay, so someone is replacing them... But the squealing could be the alternator, water pump, air conditioning pump or guide pulley bearings getting stiff (i.e. failing), causing the belt to slip. I've never looked at one of your engines, but if it follows 'Toyota VVTi form', the auxiliary belt is easy and quick to remove, so that the pulleys and belt can be checked for wear etc. The hardest part of all this checking is replacing the belt into the correct pattern to refit it. I'd take plenty of photos of where the belt goes before you start, maybe even draw a simple picture! The belt tension is released by twisting (and then holding against its spring, whilst you remove the belt) the prominent aluminium hex head in the eBay pictures, the one with the hole up the middle of it. Hopefully, it's just the belt itself that is worn. I should think that around 10 years is the recommended change interval, but they can go on for much longer, depending on your mileage/usage, of course.
  7. I did some simple measurements of the parasitic load on the 12v battery of an Auris hybrid a while back on another thread. I was using a UNI-T 210e clamp on current meter. The currents we're talking about are very small, so the meter readings are not to be taken as especially accurate for that device, but they were very repeatable, and do give a guide! My maths isn't that great, but anyway... Car locked, Keyless locking enabled - 0.050A Car locked, Keyless locking disabled via dash - 0.028A But, the Keyless locking is supposed to go to 'sleep' after 7 days of being unused, so the parasitic load will likely become 0.028A after 7 days. But let's assume this doesn't happen, for the moment - err on the side of caution. Assume the 12v battery was fully charged up, and it is a 35A/hr battery (I don't know the Yaris's size, so this is a guess). 0.050A x 24(hrs) = 1.2 A/hr of battery capacity per day to power the car when parked. So assuming 100% battery efficiency and an as-new battery (a bit of a tall order, but still), 35A/hr divided by 0.050A = 700 hours of 'parked-up' before your battery is completely flat. Just over 29 days. A good idea would be that you only want to discharge your battery to 50% capacity (as a very intermittant happening), so you have just over 14 days of parking to reach that 12v battery charge of 50%. If you turn off the Keyless locking before you park then this becomes greatly extended. Knowing that you are leaving the car with a fully charged 12v battery is a big variable in this, and something you can help with! To start the car's systems (computer, contactor, pumps etc.) takes a short burst at 20 A from the battery. I'm not sure all that helps you though! Or am I missing something in the maths above?
  8. Does the steering pull to the left? If you are driving on the left (are you in the UK?), then the effect of negotiating lots of roundabouts can eventually cause a particular wear pattern, I have found on our cars. I have suffered similar steering bias (not on a RAV), and found swapping the front tyres across the axle fixes it. I think that tyre wear from, in this case, clockwise roundabouts, wears the outer edge of the front l/h tyre. If you were to massively exagerate this wear effect, for illustration, then imagine that the tyre wears into a 'slice' of a cone, with the top of the imaginary cone pointing towards the nearside kerb. The effective contact area of the tyre will have then moved slightly towards the centre of the car, affecting the steering neutrality. But, this is all up for discussion! That theory worked for me when I thought of it a long while back! Or maybe your car pulls the other way...
  9. In terms of getting a competitive price-match, ATS often have decent promotions if buying two of four of various brands of tyre, but especially Michelin (who own them). Similar promotions are at Costco, but probably not relevant to you from a 'Toyota will match a local quote' point of view. I generally fit the Goodyear/Dunlop mentioned above (owned by the same company in this part of Europe) or Michelin, for me, these are in 195/65x15 or 205/55x16 sizes (to suit the particular car).
  10. As the Ulez regulations are at the moment, the T-Sport is probably compliant, isnt it? Our 51 reg Corolla is. I was so surprised, I checked twice.
  11. The CTEK charger often comes with this cable in the box - as an alternative to the usual crocodile clips. This could be attached to your battery if you've still got it. And the CTEK 2.5m extension cables are currently sitting in the clearance section of my local Halfords, priced at £9.99. Note that that 2.5M cable is extremely stiff though! (Slightly off topic, all the CTEK charger boxes are gone in the local Halfords. When I rang CTEK UK a few days ago with a question, both numbers I tried were set to the out-of-hours message, but it was 14.00. Something odd going on here?)
  12. Back in the 80s and 90s, there were some delightful Japanese grey-import 'Kei' cars that weren't that expensive. I thought they were almost all quite fantastic. Top of that pile for me was the mid-engined Mazda AZ1, which had the 660cc turbo three-pot DOHC, 9,000 rpm Suzuki Capuccino engine. And gull-wing doors. The closest I got to ownership was just sitting in one. Maybe it's just as well, I drove a Cappucino (which was an impressively-specced 3/4 size Maxda MX5), but, on the day, it didn't grab me as much as I wanted it to. Autozam-AZ-1-special.avif
  13. Hopefully this isn't going too far off-topic. Oil changes every 3000 miles? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sItz5ZO2b9Y&ab_channel=BritishPathé
  14. It's a free Android app. http://hybridassistant.blogspot.com/?m=1 You'll need a OBD2 elm 327 Bluetooth dongle to allow it to connect to your car. If you go to the linked site I think they have a demo page to show a simulation of it working. No adverts - it's created by hybrid enthusiasts in Europe. Definitely worth a look if you're interested in what's happening under the bonnet!
  15. This picture (courtesy of eBay), allegedly shows the rear of a 2006 Yaris airbag. Perhaps this helps show where your three clips are located.
  16. I had this on a Skoda some some years back, When I complained the dealer took the car in and put it on the workshop lift. 'Ah,' he said, ' there's no trace of brake fluid because we've used brake cleaner afterwards'. I'm just pre-warning you for that workshop line! Naturally, that was instantly judged to be cobblers. They did agree to bleed them again whilst I watched them, which didn't take any pressure from me at all - a sign of guilt? That brake nipple in your picture has not been touched in a good long while! Also, after bleeding, the rubber nipple will be quite easy to move, nudge, rotate - after a few years of inactivity, they tend to bond to the brake nipple. Also, I've taken to writing on the air filter and pollen filter the date they were installed, with a marker pen. Mind you, that's for my own benefit, as I'm the only one who changes them on our cars...
  17. I don't know what the answer is to your black paint question, but if you wanted to remove touch-up paint entirely, then you could use cellulose thinners (250ml tin from a motor factors/Halfords) or isopropanol (aka isopropyl alcohol, chemists or eBay). The cellulose thinners is an powerful solvent and noxious, so care is needed. The isopropyl much less so - used for general degreasing, it's also anti viral/bacterial, and was formerly used in surgery just prior to having an injection. Useful stuff to have around.
  18. The thermal fuses come in 10A and 20A, maybe bigger?, but I've not seen bigger. I would be surprised if yours wasn't the 20A. The fuse size in the car fuse box will give the clue. It's a popular fuse/resister arrangement on say, Peugeot, Citroen and Mini. A repair kit (fuse and two small crimps) is available (eBay) for those cars, but would obviously need to be checked that it was the same temperature and current rating as your one, the values on the fuse are usually barely legible, sadly. IIRC, on a Mini, the fuse is rated at ~ 180 degrees and 20A. I can't see why yours would be much different. On the Mini I looked at, after replacing the blown fuse, some months later a slight fan motor squeak became evident (not my car btw), and the fuse blew again. Bearings!
  19. In the Yaris the 12v battery is fitted underneath the rear seat upholstery, right alongside the hybrid (AKA traction, or high-voltage) battery. It's an unusual location - the back seat base on the Yaris has to be removed to access it, which luckily is quite quick and easy.
  20. Whilst I broadly agree with that, is it not the case that the forums can also give you an idea as to the type of problems a brand of car can suffer, and also the variety? The Citroen XM is an interesting illustration as to Citroen's quirky French charm (I am actually a bit of a Citroen fan, btw). Didn't the early XMs suffer electrical problems because the wiring looms were made too short? All that superb automotive design, but it seems the wiring loom was signed-off on a Friday afternoon?! Problems with Toyotas generally don't prompt the classic 'rolling eyes' response that other car brands can do. The Japanese obsessive attention to detail (particularly the homemade products) and mastery of everything electrical, has really paid off for them, but the rest of the world, especially the Koreans, have narrowed the gap enormously. I get the impression that the Japanese industry is thick with engineering and maths graduates - everything is all very logical and neat. Unlike, say, the Italians. I'm of an age to remember just how far ahead of the rest of the world Sony Trinitron colour tvs were, for example. The electronics ran so cool! And they showed how something as complex as a video recorder could be made to be reliable - I remember stripping down an early Philips (so from the Netherlands) VHS video recorder, it was absolute rubbish in every respect compared to a Panasonic. I used to sometimes work on Fujitsu mainframe computers - the design, from a maintenance point of view, certainly, was just so thorough!!! The IBM competition (US and to a lesser extent European designed/made) was innovative but badly thought-through. Excuse the nostalgia trip... These products are really just an extension of the culture, inevitably.
  21. On my HIR2 headlight, which is a r/h one, there is just one connector shared for the HIR2 bulb, daytime running light (DRL) and shutter arrangement. The headlight solenoid is connected to the two pins shown with the arrows. Their conductors, on the short length of headlamp loom before they dissappear into the enclosure, are green and yellow wires that are visible in one of the pictures. The resistance of the solenoid is 24 Ohms. But, if the solenoid is jammed in one position, it will still read 24 Ohms! If 12 volts is applied to these pins, then the shutter can clearly be heard to operate, but, I would expect that this is fiddly to do (access) when the headlamp is on the car. It might be much safer to monitor those specific pins in its female counterpart, and look for 12v to arrive across them when high beam is selected. Note (in the earlier pictures) that the headlamp protrudes into the bumper cavity - removing the headlamp requires removing the bumper first.
  22. The solenoid (assuming that yours follows the UK design non-HID model!) is inside the outer headlamp enclosure that you can see under the bonnet, but outside of the 'inner chamber' (optics, reflector etc.). I have a spare headlamp somewhere in the garage, if I get time I'll have a look to see if there is an obvious dedicated solenoid electrical connection. The top photo (not my picture, this is from eBay) is an Auris Mk2 pre-FL headlamp removed from the car. The next pictures are of the solenoid (which you can not see without breaking open the outer headlamp cover - don't do this!). So these pictures are just for you to see what is not working on your car - you can't access these parts. It's at the lowest point of the assembly with a couple of wires visible. This one was from an accident-damaged headlamp which the outer shell had been smashed. The shutter assembly that is being moved for high beam/low beam operation, is shown by the green arrow. This part may, just may, be visible when looking into the headlamp from the back through the bulb-fitting aperture, but you'll probably need the skills of a keyhole surgeon to spot this. Hopefully, this de-mystifies it a little...
  23. Perhaps I am missing something? According to the Mobil website they don't offer an oil for our 2013 Auris hybrid. I just get this panel displayed: Looks like a phone call is needed.
  24. I had a similar failure, but on the final, short length of pipe that exits the back box on a Corolla, so not a load bearing pipe in that case. It had just fallen off somewhere. I measured the internal diameter of the pipe, and bought a short length of stainless pipe of the same outside diameter It might have been this seller on eBay, but there are others. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293229037890?var=592093916358&hash=item4445d00942:g:6I8AAOSwltNdfMuW&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoLP6ZFvIFaKuCl2zhI9uXH8sn7WrBTlgcKOSnmuqfijOdae4Dv5ccm68BuPLhNm3j5Mgc0xbRb44zvfehRpsMiA15io51eesgB4JAk1dAizpAunFrouJrd4n8g8yqpfqwnGo0J45SMBrFPHmS3DZ1JlXybA%2FwtmMIe1tpVOvb1o5NSLnV5aB0i1QCB4ofJMMqVHR7pX1UbcWWHjNOez%2BpgQ%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5DTiuKOYQ As an attempt for a short term fix whilst I considered my options, I fitted it a few inches into the remaining pipe in the back box (a very snug fit in this case) with some high-temperature epoxy for good measure. It is still there five years later. Perhaps I got lucky with the dimensions being 'just-so'? I guess if you were to go down this route, then getting the new pipe inside both existing pipes would involve seperating them at the break lengthways, which might be an aggravation.
  25. In the few times I have ever had anything similar happen to me (never in an Auris), it has been caused by some weird bacteriological growth in the washer bottle, descending to the washer pump inlet and getting pushed through to the jets on the bonnet, or blocking the inlet pipe from the tank. A lack of washer fluid additive might have be the culprit for me. In an MX5, I was deliberately not putting screen wash additive in, as with the roof down some of this additive fluid would end up on your face. The sizeable black blob that eventually grew months later, surely on account of no additive to keep in check, was like something from science fiction - amazing! With care, a bicycle hand pump, when fitted with the tapered attachment to inflate a lilo or beach ball (orange plastic thingy?), might fit into the pipes or fittings to help you to push the liquid flow into reverse to temporarily unblock it, or assist in clearing a pipe out - or proving a section isn't blocked!
  • Create New...