Gerg

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Everything posted by Gerg

  1. Hi, I don't have this model but, just to clarify, the car a Multimode automatic model, isn't it? I have the Mk2 Auris, but the fuse box design seem different to yours. Does the manual list what fuse AM1 is linked to? In a Mk2 it is a 5A fuse (so, not 7.5A), and relates to the 'IG1 RLY' and 'ACC RLY'. Whilst the problem may well be much more complicated than this, in the first instance, I would locate and remove the each of those relays above to see if it stops the fuse blowing. But you've probably tried that already. Hopefully, you have plenty of spare 7.5A fuses to hand now!? Also, do you have a dashcam installed, or an aftermarket radio or parking sensors? i.e. an accessory where some of the factory wiring has been modified? Although, I would have expected the RAC man to have checked all the above and discussed it with you before leaving.
  2. Does it remotely fit in with this? I don't think I could feel the noise that we had in our car, but it sounds like you ought to be able to, if that makes any sense!
  3. Hi, Just a few ideas spring to mind - On our Auris the plastic chassis undertrays that run along the length of the car are prone to filling up with gravel and fine grit - on our car there was about 0.5 kilos of crud in each side when I looked (at 6 years and 60,000 miles). When this is disturbed (bumps) it will make a noise against the undertray. I have removed these trays and washed them out, the car does seem more refined, although this could be my imagination. There is no reason to remove these trays in normal servicing, as far as I know. Or what about this obscure one:- the front and rear bumpers are secured by a mixture of small bolts and plastic clips. With mileage (general vibration), the plastic clips fret and become looser. If the bumper suffers any impact then these clips will probably get looser still. Perhaps your bumper is no longer securely connected to the body at all points, and has some small movement available? (These clips are quite pathetic in my opinion and I am trying to replace them with something better.) From underneath, the shape and size of the bumper might mean it is able to catch air if the body suddenly moves down or up, giving the noise you hear? What about loose heat shields on the exhaust, i.e. rusted securing fasteners - especially given the age of the car. I'd have suggested loose rear brake pads, but the sound doesn't fit, does it?
  4. Gerg

    corolla 2019

    With a great deal of care. If it's of any use, this is an (eBay) picture is of an Auris electrically-assisted steering column, I doubt the Corolla is much different. The left hand end of the assembly clamps directly to the, traditional-style rack, the r/h side attaches into the steering column height/length adjustment (not shown). The motor, pointing diagonally upwards, is in the lowest part of the picture, it is geared to the shaft through a worm drive gear, it's at 90 degrees to the steering shaft. HTH.
  5. Gerg

    My New PHV

    This link refers to a conventional Prius gen. 4, and it's a French website, but if you allow Google to translate it for you, then it does give some extra insight on what is under the skin of that car (and your car?) from a sound deadening point of view. The Google translated version might eventually end up giving you a headache - or you might find the occasionally idiosyncratic text charming! https://hybridlife.org/threads/toyota-prius-4-2016-insonorisation-dorigine-details-et-photos.1408/ I did put this next link up a while back, this is a Czech soundproofing/audio-upgrade company website. They have thoughtfully taken photos of their upgrades as they take place. There is no gen. 4 Prius, but plenty of Toyota hybrids and others to examine - if you have time to spare! https://www.ahifi.cz/autohifi-montaze-do-vozidel-toyota/
  6. Years ago I had a creaking noise (in a Nissan), but it was only when going slowly over bumps. After removing a suspension strut and even installing a microphone under the bonnet, it turned out to be the bonnet itself, groaning on its rubber mounts along the edge of the wings as the body slightly flexed. I doubt your problem is this, but just in case, does it do it if the bonnet is not fully down?
  7. I wonder if these suggestions are relevant to your car? https://www.justanswer.com/toyota/483p9-toyota-camry-ce-hello-i-2007-camry-con-not-open.html
  8. Automotive News Europe produced this supplier breakdown for some of the major components in some current popular cars. It's not a comprehensive list, but still...... https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/crain/ane_8394843321MIRSB_supp/index.php#/1
  9. I would be agree with that sentiment, the corrosion woes of the eighties and before had been sorted out, and from a Jap-car perspective, cost considerations did not seem to be such a ever-present concern (they probably were, but it didn't show as much to me). The Japanese cars built in Europe were still using local content made to Japanese designs, rather than vendors being invited to submit their own 'solutions', largely for cheapness (efficiency?), and the Japanese were still closely tied to their long-established suppliers, so designs were more evolutionary, with the result of reliability and simplicity. I used to work in the computer industry back then, and the ease of maintenance and reliability of the Japanese products (esp. mainframe computers) was almost astonishing when compared to everybody else's, they were only ever replaced because they had been rendered obsolete by new technology, not because they had ever become unreliable. At the same time I was a regular visitor to SKF, then the world's largest bearing manufacturer, they had set themselves the new quality goal of a specific set of tight tolerances in some of their bearings, they considered these to be a 'super-high' spec. that would need more expensive manufacturing equipment for them to make, but this level of uniformity and tight-tolerance was apparently completely routine for the Japanese bearing manufacturers at the time, this was acknowledged by their own engineers. I think it was in 1999 when Eiji Toyoda, then head of Toyota, made his ' We engineer our little cars the same way we engineer our big cars, we can not afford to continue doing this any more.' speech. And at our local Nissan dealer, the chatty parts dept. bloke said to me, (in about 2009), that the warranty costs for Nissan vehicles had gone up four-fold since their tie-up with Renault had come about. But then Nissan was a loss-making concern for several years before Renault stirred it all up, so changing the 'partner' arrangements with long-standing suppliers (Calsonic? Koito? etc.) was inevitable, or they would sink. Also, in the nineties the Japanese domestic economics were going down the pan into a 20 year period of damaging 'stagflation', if I remember correctly. I put mega-miles onto a few, secondhand, Japanese cars of that era, they just went on and on! I think in many ways the Koreans have maneuvered themselves into the position the Japanese car makers once had, certainly a lot of their cars seem to have a thorough, OCD-style, element to their engineering. I'm just surprised they don't dominate the reliability tables, they look like they ought to.
  10. I have not used this specific kit linked to below, (but I have used a nearly identical one several times), but at the price it could be part of your puncture-mitigating items, and get-you-home strategy. Some tyre depots may be unwilling to repair a puncture properly that has had one of these up them because of any residue left, but then selling you a new tyre is a much quicker, more profitable job for them. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Slime-20464-Tyre-Plug-Kit/dp/B00C5TJ1MM/ref=pd_sbs_263_6/259-8595893-0389313?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00C5TJ1MM&pd_rd_r=85a56a41-4d65-43c0-9903-7348dc049fd6&pd_rd_w=hbLuq&pd_rd_wg=ve1Vu&pf_rd_p=7f9048ad-9bda-4493-8578-13e4eff8da65&pf_rd_r=ZA6Q2EH34XCRSAR35VP4&psc=1&refRID=ZA6Q2EH34XCRSAR35VP4 The part you poke into the puncture itself has a very,very tacky bundle of fibres running along its length. It is probably best used for screw and nail type damage, but for me that is almost always the cause of my punctures. Dropping self-tappers on a road should be a custodial offence, they will always end up in someone's tyre. Of course, you will get dirty using this whilst you locate exactly where the puncture is, and it is meant as a temporary repair. You've really got to get the car somewhere safe to investigate the puncture and fit one of these, so maybe of limited use for some, but I'd thought I'd put this up just to show it exists - I only spotted them a few years ago. I've had 2 professionally puncture-repaired tyres leak quite seriously (at the exact point of the repair) over the years, perhaps others have, too?
  11. Gerg

    Front Struts

    So, in English, something like this:- "This is the damper mount. A classic on this car. Not serious, but fixing is not difficult to achieve."
  12. Your detailed insight into longer-term 'bangernomics' is interesting. Is there any story as to how you needed 2 catalysts? Also, did you get any brake pipes replaced? How was the gearbox at the end mileage, any whines? If it had it, did the aircon need much work? Did the fuel consumption vary much as it aged? How was the final oil consumption rate? Apologies for all the questions. Cheers.
  13. I did think that Eicher were an ECP or CP4L 'own brand', but recently I have seen that they do exist outside of ECP. They are an Indian company, not Chinese as I thought. Not that this helps your brake squealing...
  14. I haven't even sat in a new Camry yet, but it would be very interesting to now how it compares to the LS400. I appreciate that the Lexus was selling into a different market, but the comparison of their transmission refinement (and everything else) would be intriguing. It would be interesting to see how much the design and technology has bridged the gap (if at all) between the two classes.
  15. Further to Konrad's post, I can send you a picture of the equivalent plastic cover on an Auris seat, to give some idea how the plastic cover is attached to the seat frame. The clips that are used won't be in the same place as your car, but they will very likely be the same type, so you have an idea what to look out for.
  16. Hi, This online manual has some specifics that might help:- http://www.autocats.ws/manual/toyota/auris_corolla_zze-zr-nde-ade/rm04f0e/index2.html?utm_source=ToyotaOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks If your car has an undertray then removing the 10mm bolts and the plastic clips that secure it will likely take longer than draining the oil. Best not to be tempted to cut the clips - they are usually about £1.50 each. The 10mm bolts will usually come out with a tremendous amount of to-ing and fro-ing to dislodge the rust on the threads. If you are looking to buy new drain washers then expect around £2.20 each. On the gearbox, don't forget to loosen the fill plug first, just in case you can't remove it after you've already drained the oil! HTH
  17. That does seem a bit mean of them on the power socket front. On a different tack, I noticed that if you don't have the air vents in the centre console for the rear seat passengers (Excel only?), then you don't get heater vents installed for the rear passenger's feet either. Perhaps an opportunity for a 'rear passenger winter socks' pack? Maybe they were thinking that poorer people don't notice the cold so much. :-)
  18. There are some minor problems that feature on Mk2 Auris that might be worth knowing about. Some may have been fixed under warranty, but some owners will not have noticed these faults and so have not reported them to the dealer. Off the top of my head:- The steering exhibits a 'click' when turned to either limit and then turned back (even when done gently). This is not dangerous and apparently there are no MoT implications. It is entirely down to the individual as to if this hacks you off a lot. Both our cars did it. The reversing camera seal to the lens will fail, allowing a seepage of water into the camera if splashed, this is especially apparent after a service when the Toyota garage will pressure wash the back of the car and the camera will be near-useless until it dries. As far as I can tell all cars will have this happen, the 2015 has a slightly different camera, so better? If the black seal around the lens is grey then it has probably already failed. A new camera was (is?) £440 for the item, and the hatch door has to come apart to fit it. The camera does dry out, but watermarks get left on the inside of the lens. Some carefully cut greenhouse repair tape can help to prevent further leaks (Wilko £1.50 a roll, enough for about 300+ applications). The driver seat can 'click' as it moves slightly during acceleration and braking, this is due to excessive play in the height adjust mechanism. No easy fix, not all cars do it. The headlamps, if requested by the customer under warranty, were replaced for identical-looking models (free-of-charge) that offer an obviously wider beam spread i.e. to the immediate left and right front of the car. The headlamps aren't the best bit of the car, and the bulbs are rather expensive (HIR2) The middle exhaust box seems prone to having a hanger rusting off - this maybe more on the earlier model, and maybe just hybrids. This is ok from an MoT perspective, as long as the other one doesn't do the same. Apart from the exhaust, there are technical bulletins about all these, I believe. There are certainly posts about all these on this forum. I have only noticed LED headlamps on one car ever, it was a very late facelifted model, maybe a 2018? HTH
  19. I haven't had good reason to look at many used catalyst cores, but that one does look a bit dark. Here is one I took a picture of off a 45,000 mile 2007 Mazda 6 a few years back. The core isn't in focus (that's not what I was taking the photo of), but the core colour is still very apparent and it's quite a bit cleaner looking than your one. I don't know if your cat. will get cleaner with general use? Hmm. The oil deposits are awful. If you were using the car in the same pattern as you were with the old engine, then I think a fully synthetic 5w/30 would be a good investment. Great that you documented everything in such an orderly fashion - much more to be learnt that way by other owners from your pains.
  20. Obviously I have no knowledge of where you live but, would it be worth doing some simple tests local to your home to establish how far you have to travel for the door locking to start working again. Then, try this in other directions if you can, to establish where the edges, and thence the centre, of where the disruption is? Hopefully your scanner will sort this out without needing to do this when it arrives. For what it's worth, there was a situation similar to Mike's above that was reported on a motoring website some years ago. Basically, when any Land Rover Discovery was parked in a specific area of particular Italian town, it could not be opened on the fob or started - the cars had to be towed to somewhere else to get them to work. It was eventually discovered to be a radio system at the local police station nearby that was the cause.
  21. Hi, you have my sympathies. Just to get an idea of how this is happening, where was the car parked? Some Auris hybrid owners on this forum have had cat. thefts recently, as well as some Prius. Is yours a hybrid model?
  22. No, the engine will overheat quite quickly, that would likely prompt a head gasket failure and a big bill, so best not to. Even if the pump is only partly seized or intermittently failing, then I wouldn't want to risk it. I've never had this failure or replaced one, perhaps someone else has personal experience of this?
  23. Hi, just edited the post before you replied. ECP say £320 but out of stock, for an AIS brand (?). German,Swedish and French (GSF) are asking for £900 inc.for a 'Premium' brand(?) A online discount code usually works for both these web sites, note. That's quite a span. There will be other potential suppliers, of course.
  24. Hi, I have just googled this to check for you. It would seem that your engine water pump has a fault. On the Prius this is electrically driven. as opposed to being driven off the 'fan' belt or camshaft drive belt as it would be on other, conventional, cars. This fault will not clear without the pump being replaced, as it is likely the impeller shaft has seized. There is another electric water pump that is dedicated to the cooling of the inverter. That pump can be checked for its operation by removing the top from the coolant container on the passenger side of the engine bay (after the engine has cooled down!) and looking for turbulence in the tank when the car is turned on, just to check. This is a popular enough part for there to possibly be other suppliers for the pump apart from Toyota themselves. Replacement could be done by any competent mechanic, I would expect - there are no special hybrid tools or skills required. The EuroCarParts price is £320 inc., as a guide for the part. How many miles has the car done, by the way?
  25. Hi, Welcome to the Toyota Owners Club. Just to get a better idea, what were/are the engine, model types and approximate mileages of the two cars mentioned? Have they always exhibited these problems since you have owned them? Have you any other details about when and how the fault manifests itself?