Gerg

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Everything posted by Gerg

  1. A bit late to put this link up as you've probably seen the TPMS sensor close-up now, but anyway, here's a picture of one in case you didn't:-
  2. I have an idea that the hybrid transmission (which I have recently drained) uses the same washers as the manual box, if so, the hybrid/manual transmission uses an aluminium washer that is 2mm thick. There is one on the drain plug and one on the fill plug.
  3. Was this picked up at a Toyota garage? Are you able to detect any steering irregularities when driving - looseness, clicking, wandering etc.? On two different 2013 Auris hybrids I have had steering column parts replaced to fix the same type of steering 'click' that was occurring, but at much lower mileages than yours. There exists a Toyota technical bulletin for 'steering clicking' but the bulletin is only acted on whilst under warranty. The fix doesn't include replacing the rack. On these 2 cars the problem was caused by too much play in the steering column splines that allow the in/out steering wheel adjustment. One was fixed under warranty, the second I did myself as the warranty had expired. Many Toyotas seem to suffer from loose clamp bolts at the base of the steering column on the flexible coupling (a quick, easy fix). I have not suffered that fault, but many on the forum have, although that tends to be on slightly older Aurises than yours.
  4. Your car will definitely have the blanking plate.. You can drill this yourself to suit the CC, but the factory part has a flexible rubber/plastic to finish off the hole. It's about £6 iirc. The spring you are trying to operate to remove the airbag is basically 'U' shaped. The difficulty comes from you pressing the spring half way up the side of the 'U' to detach the wire from an alloy overhang that is near the end of the 'U' clip - the leverage is all wrong. It is hard to get enough movement on the clip and you start wondering if you are pressing the right piece. I doubt it will come off anything like as easily as the Yaris in your video. As that video suggests, it becomes clearer if you remove the blanking plate (which you will not be re-using because you've bought the new, different part?) so you can see inside a bit more as to how the clip operates.. When you remove the blanking plate from the outside (as opposed to pushing it out from the inside if the airbag was already off) you will probably bend its securing tangs more than is ideal, but they won't actually break off. You can see the (squared- off) U clip around the edge in this picture. This is shown upside-down from how it sits on the steering wheel. Once when I was removing it I used a clean tent peg as it was the right size to go through the access hole in the steering wheel. A narrow flat-blade screwdriver works almost as well. You might end up pushing the spring clip quite hard, it's a bit disconcerting. And there is a completely different style of clip (so, a 3rd one) near the bottom of the air bag, this is just a plastic dowel with a bulbous head that has been pushed into a slightly undersized hole. This just pulls out. There is no real need to disconnect the airbag from its loom, as long as you are happy to delicately park it on top of the steering wheel.
  5. I have fitted cruise control to exactly the same car, but 6 months older. There were no problems. Just so you know, the airbag can be very stiff/fiddly to remove due to the design of the locking clip - the clips don't have a very positive detent when attempting to remove the airbag. It just takes you longer than it ought to. There is a Toyota part number for the new section of trim that the control sticks out through, it's a bit further up this page if you've missed it.
  6. Gerg

    parts catalog

    For just the part number only you could try this:- https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Toyota
  7. Unfortunately not. I have only taken one apart as far as these pictures show.
  8. If you mean the one above, then I've no idea why the bulbs are difficult to remove. I think it would make your job easier if you were able to take the whole light out of the roof first, perhaps, so you can see it more easily? Removal is quick and simple. If you decided to do this, you need to press on each of the copper-coloured clips (with a very thin flat blade screwdriver or the end of a steel ruler etc.) whilst gently pulling down on the light. You don't necessarily have to press them all at the same time. I have taken the light fitting out, but not removed the bulbs on this light. The cable is secured with the usual press-in tang.
  9. So, the roof lights. Front or back? I know this isn't really what you are asking, but, the front looks like this if you end up having to remove the fitting completely:- The four white clips in the picture look similar, the ones at the front are really stiff. The back ones are easier, but the plate they attach to is not solidly fixed to the roof, so it bends slightly as you attempt to remove the light fixing. I would carry on trying what you are doing rather than remove the whole lot, it's very stiff to remove. It was a pain to get this one out. I've not removed the bulbs, so I cant offer much as a suggestion, what about some rubber pipe slid over the bulb?. In the first picture the bulbs sit in the black plastic caps which come out after a quarter turn, but from the front they must simply pull out.
  10. Gerg

    Auris Back Light

    It is odd that this is happening on both back lights. When a bulb fails it is normal to expect it to be permanent, but if the the two ends of the broken filament touch together (vibration) they can temporarily weld themselves back together again for a while. I have seen this happen whilst a plugged-in 'dead' bulb has been in my hand - a tiny spark and the bulb comes back on for a while. That was a 15w bulb though, but on that size it was quite common to fail that way, this confused many owners as that car had a bulb failure warning which it would trigger, but when you stopped the car and checked at the bulb it was lit. Perhaps yours are the failing in a vaguely similar (but weird) way? In that situation changing the bulb stopped the problem completely. Also worth looking at the bulb holder and bulb contacts for surface corrosion whilst you're in there. A tiny amount of WD40 into the bulb holder wouldn't go amiss. I would put the applicator pipe into the holder and put a cloth over that it to stop squirting WD40 into your face! For ease/cheapness, I would be tempted to change the bulbs for new ones anyway, at least they can then be ruled out. The tail light is probably a W5W, also known as a 501, but worth checking that as I don't have your car. They are cheap and widely stocked.
  11. I'm not an expert, but:- I don't think the VVti has anything to do with it, and those five-sided bolts suggest removal/dismantling that unit is a real no-no. And it might even be impossible to reassemble without factory tools/gauges etc. As I'm sure you know, the crud under the valve cover is not in itself a reason not to start, but an possible tell-tale of other more problematic crud elsewhere e.g. piston rings. The compression readings are pretty grim, but with a little oil into the bores, the engine starts. So, I think the dilemma is what technique do you use to unstick the rings without damaging the catalyst. After reading through this post again, I'd put my money on your problem being low compression through sticking rings. If the engine was running, then that might be an engine flush and an extended 'Italian tune-up'. With a follow-on of shorter oil change intervals with a synthetic oil, which is very widely regarded as having a much better detergent performance. I don't think semi-synthetic is a big step up from regular mineral oil, as was suggested by an automotive engineer who did regular engine oil analysis as part of his job. With the engine not running at the present, I think a cheap improvement (enough compression to get it running) might be through bathtub tom's 'diesel down the spark plug holes' suggestion. Most of it will end up in the sump after leaving it overnight. Diesel is underrated as a dismantling fluid. I am very happy for someone to disagree with any of the above. This is an interesting puzzle when it is someone else who is getting their hands dirty. My sympathies! Did you improvise when connecting the scope leads to the car's connectors? Or did you have dedicated leads? I've never done this, my old scope sits in the garage unused! For what it's worth, the latest instructions for Wynns engine flush tell you to add the whole tin as normal oil, then let the engine tick over for 20 minutes. Stop the engine, then drain the oil, replace the filter and refill with your regular oil.
  12. I agree with your comment above. My reference to the Ford/Vauxhall problem was partly to highlight that something that sounds so serious could be fixed with just an oil viscosity change. An engine flush (Wynns, perhaps?) is not very feasible as the engine doesn't run properly. But, I have tried this brand of flush in our 120,000 mile 1.4 vvti Corolla, it definitely dissolved quite a lot of crud, as suggested by the following fresh oil going off-colour very quickly. The oil consumption halved as well (was a poor 1200 miles/litre), but only for 1500 miles or so. I have done this a second time a year later with the same results. Bathtub tom's suggestion sounds worth a try, but just as background - Redex petrol treatment was reformulated about 10 years ago and is now a fuel system cleaner, not an upper-cylinder lubricant etc. as it used to be. I rang them a few years ago just to check this. I guess it's the catalyst and O2 sensors that might not much like that procedure, though. I'm sure there is a modern product that does this and is stated as catalyst-safe. Just as an aside, what oil do you use?
  13. You mention several times about your sticky oil deposits under the cam cover etc. Back in the early days of the Ford Puma, Vauxhall Tigra etc, (so, 16v small petrol engines), I seem to remember that both those manufacturers changed their oil recommendations for their respective engines to a thinner grade than was first specified. The reason for this was to cure 'sticking valve problems', they said. I don't know what the symptoms were, but that such a fault could exist on a 'modern' engine surprised me, as did the fix. I wonder if, given your demanding use (short journeys) and visible, sticky deposits inside the engine, that you have some 'sticky valves'? I would go for ring/bore wear as more likely, but given that the fix for that is so involved, I thought I'd chuck the above idea in for discussion.
  14. I have a stripped-down 2013 Auris front seat in the garage at the moment, (until I work out what to do with it). If there was some aspect of the seat skeleton etc. that you wondered about (shape, size, construction etc.) then I might be able to post a photo to better illustrate what it is that you are sitting on and against. If I remember correctly, for the Derby-built Auris the seats are made for Toyota by Adient in Burton-On-Trent. https://www.adient.com/products . I don't find the Auris seats that comfortable. Perhaps these are from the 'budget' end of their range? Just like many other systems in a car, I think it is the case that just a few companies make the car seats for most of the major car manufacturers. It would be interesting to know how much the final part is supplier-suggested or manufacturer specified? French cars are always said to have soft seats, whilst German cars are generally reckoned to have firmer seats. But many VW cars have their seats made by Faurecia, which is a french company that was once owned by Peugeot. Which sort-of answers the above.
  15. I'm sure it's been noted that the original poster is from New Jersey and is driving a 2015 Corolla (maybe a bit similar to an Auris?).
  16. If your wiper motor is similar to the 2012 -2018 Auris, then it will look like these pictures. If you zoom in on the second picture, you can see that it has some sealant on its top cover, But also a screw and some built-in clips. If you were keen then you might get the cover off without damaging it. This link might give some extra insight: https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6226/how-to-fix-your-windshield-wiper-motors/ I don't think you'll find a separate switch that you can replace on its own. It'll be more likely needing a clean up and grease, if the wiping contact hasn't worn away.
  17. Or this repair kit. You have to be able find the hole of course. A temporary repair, but seems to work. https://www.amazon.co.uk/TYRE-PUNCTURE-REPAIR-STRIPS-BESTSELLER/dp/B00ISFIN4Y/ref=pd_sbs_263_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ISFIN4Y&pd_rd_r=855a9573-80b6-11e9-9ff2-d5fd6dee570d&pd_rd_w=xmBoL&pd_rd_wg=fXIDX&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=1E39T4KJ6WB1XN6S5KPR&psc=1&refRID=1E39T4KJ6WB1XN6S5KPR
  18. Gerg

    Paintwork

    Also, while you're looking at the all other bits, the nearside driveshaft has a rubber damper about half way along its length. On older Toyota models of similar design, corrosion forms directly underneath the rubber damper and the driveshaft eventually shears in half after the effective diameter of the shaft is reduced. This happens to other makes of car as well, of course. The drivers side driveshaft has a damper as well, but this doesn't seem to corrode as quickly. You are years away from this happening, if it even happens at all. But if it does, it could really ruin your morning.
  19. I've just done one of these a few days ago. Two things stand out as minor problems that could slow you down: 1.The trim clips on the undertray fill with road crud and then become tedious to remove, especially the ones at the back edge. And the 10mm bolts at the front edge like to rust up. 2. The 10mm hex key that is required to undo both plugs has slightly limited access. To save on swearing, I would make sure that you have a tool that can get a good torque on it in a space that is a little short of room. I used a 3/8 drive click-stop torque wrench and a socket to suit the plug, this was ideal for me with the car not lifted that high, but the initial effort needed to 'crack' the seal on the plug is surprising, the torque wrench length was useful to get the leverage - It almost releases with a bang. Just trying to use an L-shaped hex (Allen) key will make the job so much harder.
  20. Hi Peter, I have not been in this situation, so please feel free to discount this suggestion: What about a cheese cutter type-arrangement? You could try a ready made up one (artist supplies for clay etc?). Or, perhaps make your own with fishing line and some dowel for handles? You wouldn't be able to use it across the entire sump, of course, but maybe across the corners, and/or one flank at a time? If the fishing line gets trashed, you could just remake the cutter, fishing line is quite cheap from what I've seen, and comes in a variety of load ratings and thicknesses. It could be that there is a good reason why this won't work, perhaps the sump has an internal lip.
  21. Maybe there is some official Toyota advice on this, which I have no way of knowing, but I can't see why a normal 16" safety spare for a Yaris won't fit your one. Unless Toyota have fitted oversize front brakes or wheel hubs to your model, which I very much doubt, then the dimensions should still all work out. The difference in circumference between the normal 16" tyres and your 17" tyres is small (2.5%?), so not a big deal for a temporary measure. All the more so since it is good practice to put the safety spare (if needed) onto a back wheel by shuffling the wheels to suit. There is no chance of your (GR) back brakes being too big to fit a 'normal' Yaris safety spare. So, if there is a safety spare for the 16" wheel car then I can't see why it won't fit yours, but I'm happy to be proved wrong. But the difference in grip between your 17" tyre and the puny safety spare will be bigger than with any of the other tyre options available, maybe that's what Toyota was thinking of when they said it wasn't recommended. I wonder if the differences in grip cause a problem with the VSC etc. in a 'critical' situation?
  22. You will be delighted to know that your car is not fitted with a timing belt, it has the alternative, a timing chain. This is not a service item. Provided the car has regular oil and filter changes, this should last the life of the car with no maintenance. Only the Corolla diesels of this era have timing belts.
  23. The Torque Pro app is correct - I don't think there is an EGR on that engine. In general, I don't think petrol engine designers from that period needed to resort to an EGR system to get emissions to the required levels; the Suzuki is the anomaly here. It would be interesting to see why they went to that effort and expense. Perhaps someone knows? Perhaps the engine was designed principally for the US or Asian markets which had different requirements, and it was simpler just to leave EGR on?! I think, given the age of your cars, that it was Euro 3 standards that needed to be met when new.
  24. Might be the part getting removed in this video? Not your year of Corolla I know.
  25. Over the last few years I have tried changing the tyres and wheels on several cars - as the tyres get narrower the steering becomes a little easier to turn. For example, a 195/65 x 15 is an easier steer than the exact the same car on a 205/55 x 16. Are the cars you are comparing fitted with the same tyre sizes?