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Supra_knight last won the day on June 26 2018

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  1. Hi there Supra conversation on here is all but completely dead I'm afraid. Bit of a waste of time posting here unfortunatly. Your best bet is to try the Supra Gurus on technical help sites like https://www.mkivsupra.net/ (UK) or https://www.supraforums.com/ (USA) In terms of your issue, unfortunately I think that's going to be very difficult. Specialist electronic repairers are really your only chance if the above links don't help. In all honesty though, my suggestion (if your going to be using the car) would be to upgrade. Most owners replace the radio very quickly for modern units, like a touch screen android head unit. The difference is laughably, astonishingly better, and its likely going to be the same price as repairing a 24 year old radio I'm sorry. If you do upgrade, do NOT throw the old unit old, keep it as its worth a pretty now for the purists who restore supra's. LASTLY: If your looking for things to do with the car, try joining this group below (or just message me). Were aiming to revive the supra social scene, (so its not as dead as you see on here.) https://www.facebook.com/groups/982345662639315/
  2. I Think it's a good idea to go on the MKV forum(link below), and double check with the MKV gurus in the UK section. The US guys each have unique launch numbers,(see picture) and yours sure sounds like a some kind of edition. Based on the numbering system Toyota uses, you may actually have #1 of some 90 car subset. https://www.supramkv.com/threads/le-supra-registry-thread-launch-edition-what-number-are-you.2001/page-13#post-53128
  3. Holy crap that's brilliant if it's actually #1 of 90. Is it one of these? https://hypebeast.com/2021/3/2021-toyota-gr-supra-jarama-racetrack-edition-limited-uk-special-collectible Either way, it's special, and really worth re-considering what you do with the car, because I suspect it could be worth truckloads in the future, especially if you keep the milage down. I'd have a chat to a few professional valuers, and get their opinion. Especially given the supra will end production relatively soon, and EV's will take over. Plated Limited editions always do well, and #1 is always the gem of the lot. Usually the #1 gets reserved for something or someone very special. If you've got it, you've scored big time!! 😄
  4. Hi there "i want the 2jz gte, the original spoiler and a manual gearbox (maybe the 6-speed one) do you guys know if its possible to swap both of those items and make the 1996 supra be like a stock 1998 toyota supra 2jz gte 6 speed manual?" Yes, this is entirely possible, and has been done a lot. There is no real difference between a 1996 and 1998 model. There were some minor differences between pre 96 and post 96 models, but not many. Its only when you compare UK, US, European and Japanese models that you some more significant differences in terms of options and turbos for example. The spoiler is an easy swap. literally 10 minute job if the spoiler holes exist already ( 4 Bolts). 30 min if drilling is required. The gearbox however is a massive problem to swap, simply because its not cost effective. "Supra-Tax" is real, and anything for a supra has a high price these days. So the original gearbox ("Getrag 6 speed" - V160 and V161) is very, very expensive. Most people are now using much cheaper 6 speed gearbox's from BMW's which are just as good or better, and a 1/5 of the price. Its also a huge job because its not just the gearbox, but anything that's connected to it like the the pedals, dash, driveshaft, difff and some electronics as well. If your getting a mechanic do it, it will be very, very expensive, especially if you want original parts which are becoming very hard to find these days. Also remember original parts might make the car worth more, but they are very poor in comparison to modern counterparts. I strongly recommend using modern alternative parts wherever possible. Suspension, Brakes, Turbo, Fuelling, Electronics, Cooling, Etc, etc. It devalues the car, but it will be a hell of a lot safer and miles faster. An original, all factory Supra just isn't that fast in today's world. Lastly, this forum is a dead end for supra's. There no interest or activity on them. (God knows I tried years ago) The best place to ask this stuff is actually on the dedicated Facebook groups such as https://www.facebook.com/groups/1067056863389384. Alternatively, there is a Supra UK 'Club', (MkIV supra Owners Club - https://www.mkivsupra.net/) which is great for online technical advice and help. It has very detailed build threads by people who have done exactly what you are planning. However, the 'club' offers nothing else and is usually not very welcoming, so you have to put up with a lot of very bad attitudes when you interact with it.
  5. Jumping Jesus! ..... There's someone else in here? ..... Alive? ...I blame kids today, they have no respect for the dead forum sections! Lol
  6. ECHO........ Echo ....... echo. ...... .......
  7. Fellow Supra owners are actually a bad bunch to ask this question, as we are usually the hardest ones the car and pulling down prices, and often really badly to our own expense. This site is also a dead end for supra's. You never see anyone one here, nor are they interested (god knows I've tried) If you were to ask on the general UK supra forums(like mkivsupra.net) or the supra Facebook sites, you will prob get told 18-20, which I totally disagree with. Just look at supply and demand in the market, and I think it's 25-30 easy, or even a fair amount more if you can bring a bit more info into the equation. You have the advantage of a twin turbo, 6 speed with Very low milage and which appears in excellent condition. I'll assume there is no rush to sell, plus there's astonishingly few of those cars around in a supra market that's continuing to grow in demand. You hold an easy 3 aces in a poker hand. Against you will be the question of - why does a 1994 car have vvti engine from a 1997 model in it? It's not a bad thing at all, its just need the story either way. I suspect the car is actually 1997 or newer model which also gives the car more value, but then you have to explain that roof damage, which I would actually get fixed first. If you have the original removed parts, then that just adds more value, as will any and all documentation. Remember Many people buying supras are outright hypocrites who will put it down for the body kit and modifications, and say it devalues the car. These are usually the same people who buy OEM cars only to modify them to hell themselves, and don't tell you how easy it to fix all that. Don't let low ballers con you about difficulties in retro fitting that interior or body kit. Those wheels are also fairly desirable. If I were you, I wouldn't sell at all unless you really want the money, if it's emotional painful (just lost my mother, so I know the felling) or if cars bore you. If it appeals to you at all, I'd get the roof sorted, keep what is one of the best weekend touring toys you can have, and drive the hell out of it. (Trust me, I'm about to do another 1000 mile GT tour of the UK in mine) You've got real world supercar performance, with supercar looks, arguably the greatest tube-ability of any car, virtual pre-invites to all at shows you want, a reliability level the envy of every other sports car there is, in a manual, low milage, high performance car, with a market where price is continuing to appreciate for these cars. There isn't much to match it unless you get into the supercar brands and cars such as an Aston DB9 or higher. If you have to sell, get it all sorted by making it mint condition and documented, then start at 30-35 I say. That milage alone is a winner against most others at 150+ with 25k price tags.
  8. Welcome aboard, nice car :) Unfortunately these days, I think our kind of cars (performance and or modified) are lost on many of the active members on here. I've found it hard just to get people here interested in a new sports car from Toyota, even when its all over the auto news, let alone high performance or modified cars. I don't know much about the 3zz platform, but i know they have a strong following for a reason, so It should be a good setup you have there, as I have very similar brands(mods) on my Supra. (APEXi, Recaro, Michelin). For the injectors and manifold concerns, If you not planning on going too far down the modification road, then i would think piggyback ecu's might be a solution that will allow you to map for the changes. But again, i know very little about your chassis to say for sure sorry.
  9. It shattered? Just out of curiosity..... was someone perhaps having a little too much..... um..... fun?... say in a car-park?,... late at night? 😉 Might be worth checking your tires and handbrake aswell 😄
  10. Thats awsome. The most impressive thing was it looks as though it didn't actually fail, it was end-to-end complete. I only saw one or two blips, none of which stopped the main fall. It was pretty much perfect. Too many of the giant setups stop halfway, and they they edit out the restarts. That just looked like gold the whole way through :) Whats even more impressive is how no one stole the biscuits .. If id have been there, i so would have so done a biscuit binge running along side, homer Simpson style :)
  11. So admittedly I've only been on here a fraction of the time that others have, but I'm getting dismayed by what it seems to be so far. From my perspective, it feels less like an owners club of any kind, and really just a free technical support website for Toyota owners who have a problem. - Owners who do a once off "punch in, punch out" - "solution please?" post. I'm not saying that it shouldn't have that, that's an important component, but it should command a lot more of itself than that. All I've seen to date is mountains of posts seeking technical help. There's no discussion on almost anything else. There is no sign of club meetings or club events. Any news about Toyota and its cars goes through seemingly unnoticed and uninterested. - And this is from a club which could potentially have one of the largest national membership bases. From the viewpoint of a club initiate, I'm struggling to remain interested in it. Was it always this way?
  12. Unfortunatly thats means things have to get more serious in consideration. Water doesn't just dissapear. Its getting out somehow, and there is really only 3 main ways. 1- Evap from the expansion tank, 2 - Leaking from a pipe, part, connector, etc...., or 3 - its getting into the cylinders and being passed out the exhaust. 1 -The cap is now ruled out, next step 2 - Leaks - If the cap is ruled out, you want to start looking for leaks. They can be very hard to spot , as if its small slow leak, it could be evaporating off before showing any clear signs. If you have red coolant, you should see some sort of pinkish staining somewhere if this is the case,. If you cant find any leak in or around anywhere, such as the rad itself, poor connections, water feed lines, water pump, etc... and your absolutely sure there is none -then its onto the next step. But believe me, those leaks can be damn hard to find, and you WANT to find this ...because its much better than the next step. Professional Mechanics are usually excellent at finding leaks quickly because of their experience. Home mechanics like me take forever to find them. 3- If Leaks are ruled out - now you have to start looking at the possibility of water getting into places it should not, in particular the head gasket. If its a "small" head gasket leak(if there is such a thing) it will very likely get worse soon. You may not notice much water vapor out the exhaust now, but it could be an emerging sign and getting worse. Also look for emulsified oil. Thats when oil and water have actually mixed. Looks like a off white milky sludge - Thas BAD. Look in the oil cap and the dipstick for signs. Also start the engine without the rad cap and look for bubbles in the coolant, which could indicate gas is also escaping and passing into the coolant chambers. A head gasket is an urgent fix if identified, so you shouldn't even start the car if looks to be the case. Its also a horrible job to do as-well, hence the high labor costs for it. The only other freak/fluke chance I can think of is what I've sen before back in Australia. Someone I know flushed their Coolant system out for maintenance, and didn't put anywhere near enough back in. How the hell the engine ran and didnt overheat I don't know, but they were complaining about topping up the expansion tank for weeks until they realized. by then it had the correct amount in it, and the expansion tank was no longer emptying itself and running dry all the time. Had it been an Aussie summer, Id say it would have been a lot worse for them.
  13. Assuming your not loosing fluid though a leak somewhere else, (and assuming your exhaust isn't showing signs of water vapor during combustion), double check the RAD cap(even if new). If its the wrong pressure rating, faulty, or an ebay-china special, it could explain it. Not all caps are equal. Quite the opposite. I just had nearly Identical problem on my car that i solved with a new and better rad cap - Granted my car is world and lifetime apart from a avensis, the principle and rad tech is still the same. Phil from the MKiV supra owners club explained the basic problem quite well (12 Years ago!?!? so depressing 😞 ) Name: Losing coolant from the reservoir bottle Also known as: Losing coolant Overflow bottle is always empty Expansion tank What is it? The overflow tank of the coolant system isn't in fact an overflow tank - it's the expansion tank or coolant reservoir. When all components of the cooling system are functioning correctly the level of fluid in the reservoir will rise and fall a small amount as pressure in the system fluctuates. Once the engine has stopped and the water pump ceases to move water round the system and the forced cooling effect of the radiator ceases, there is a temporary rise in the fluid level in the reservoir bottle. As the system cools, coolant is drawn back into the system and the level of coolant in the reservoir will return to its original position, usually the max mark on the bottle. If you are losing coolant, each warmup-cooldown cycle will empty the expansion tank further until it's dry. Usually caused by: The most common cause of fluid loss is a faulty radiator cap. Why? If you have a faulty cap it cannot sustain the pressure of the system and allows extra fluid to be transferred to the reservoir bottle. Under driving conditions the cooling effect of the radiator may be sufficient to counteract the reduction in pressure caused by a minor fault in the cap. However, once the car is stationary the radiator may not provide enough cooling to prevent the coolant level from getting so high in the reservoir bottle that some coolant is vented off from the reservoir cap. In a hot engine with the stock fan running any released coolant will fall onto the under tray and will quickly evaporate. When the ignition is switched off, no further forced cooling is possible with the stock fan. With a faulty radiator cap and the vehicle park on level ground or facing up hill, any vented coolant will not be visible as it will fall on to and be absorbed into the tray. With a mildly faulty cap this venting of coolant will continue at each period of use until the cap is replaced. If the cap is not replaced the coolant the in reservoir will fall to a level that is below the mouth of the return feed to the radiator and air will be dawn into the system. However if the reservoir is checked when the vehicle is warm the level of coolant visible may look normal as it takes quite some time for the system to cool sufficiently to draw coolant back from the reservoir. Left unchecked the system will continue to vent fluid when ever the pressure in the system becomes higher than the faulty cap can sustain. Visual checks of a hot may lead the owner to mistakenly believe all is well. How bad is this problem? If you overheat your car due to lack of coolant, it can reach new-engine-time levels of seriousness. However, just having an empty reservoir tank isn't the end of the world. No damage is done until the car actually overheats, so fill it back up and replace the rad cap sooner rather than later. Other possible causes: There are other more serious reason for the car to lose coolant, a leak at the head gasket or a failing or loose hose connection. By checking your cold coolant level regularly you will soon spot a sudden change and prevent more potentially serious engine problems. -Phil
  14. On Friday, Toyota UK (@ToyotaUK) and Toyota Europe (@toyota_Europe) invited the Supra Owners club to a facility in Gatwick, for a special access event to the new supra. I was unable to attend unfortunately, but from what I can tell, those who did attend, had more privileged access than the media had at Goodwood. (The event will NOT be repeated elsewhere 😞) I wont go into detail about the car, as there is enough discussion allready, on places like the owner forums, Facebook and so on. Also floating around is a lot more photos and videos. Here is two pics though to give you an idea: Picture credits to Mike cattle and JB Branners.
  15. I would go with frosty's post above, I think his answer is on the money. Check to see if you have that package. It could (but not necessarily) be stamped on the car's build plate, suspension components, or more. If not, it might just be one a line in the purchase agreement or the service manual etc, etc. Worse case you may have it, and only an inspection of the parts can tell.
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