Supra_knight

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Supra_knight last won the day on June 14

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About Supra_knight

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  • First Name
    Simon
  • Toyota Model
    Supra
  • Toyota Year
    1994
  • Location
    Lancashire
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
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    Motorsport & Racing
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  1. Supra_knight

    hole in air intake

    Might be easy to just use a black plastic bung/plug and glue/tape it over on the outside. With the right size plug and re-drilling to clean it up, there would be zero risk with a good strong seal, and make it look absolutely factory finish - Toyota themselves would think it normal. You might even be able to find a screw in plug to avoid the glue/ tape. I'm thinking anything like these, which can be trimmed to suit:
  2. Supra_knight

    Hard wiring a dash cam

    Between those two, Id be looking at the drivesmart one. However I cant stress enough to check your dash cam will work with the output of any hardware kit first.(yes this is my disclaimer :) ) Drive-smart says: "Our kits all come fused with a 12 -24V input and 5V 2A Output" - so just make sure your Dash cam will be OK with the 5 volt 2 amps it will get . Its VERY likely it will, but i cant promise you it will work sorry. Also make sure your fuses are mini blades (small ones). My Reasons for the drivesmart: 1 - Its 2 amp, so it can charge/power 2amp devices as well (My galaxy note phone is 2 amp for example) whilst the other which is 1 amp only. (Most dash-cams will work fine as they will only draw one amp anyway, its just that this kit can provide 2 amp, so if a device need that, its got it) 2 - It comes with the fuse adapter / aka fuse tap. - below is a good video of what these are and how to use them, (again, just got to make sure your car has micro/mini fuses to tap into) - If you were to buy the other kit your just going to be adapting it to do almost exactly this anyway, either buying an adapter, soldering, taping twisting, etc, etc. The Tap is a nice clean easy way to do it, and this kit already has it. 3- Its cheaper with a better rated and higher powered seller who delivers faster :) The only thing I see the other kit being better for is that it appears to be actually from Cobra themselves. (Id want to double check that to be sure), where as the drivesmart one is a different manufacturer. If it were a genuine cobra kit, it means it has tested zero risk to a genuine cobra dash-cam, and may even get you some support assistance from them, possibly warranty, etc,etc.. you would need to ask them first of course. I don't know how far drive-smart would help for installation. Again, I wouldn't listen to me, or any of the above... I'd get a professional installer to do it :)
  3. Supra_knight

    hole in air intake

    Tape it up with gorilla tape - its very, very probably this 😞 https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/index.php?/topic/12181-drilled-airbox/&page=1 Yes - people actually do this and call it modification😞 : "Drill holes in your airbox/intake-pipe (after the air filter) to get the sound of an induction kit and increase the horespower" I'm a fan of modification, I believe all cars should be modified. Most wont agree with me, most wont understand it, and most don't know facts from myth when it comes to modifications. But this is not modification, its just taking a drill to an air-box because they think a 10mm hole or two will actually do something for performance and/or sound - for a car not designed for performance and/or sound. Even if there is a very slightly provable gain(I call BS), I can tell you what it definitely will do - allow in hot unfiltered air - Don't go driving in conditions where rain, dust, dirt, condensation, or other foreign material could get into the engine bay - because then its going in your engine. Its bypassing your intakes protection system with a hole like this, and over time your engine will learn to hate you with a passion, measurable in credit card debt. It would have been better for the previous owner to just get a proper high flow cold air kit and filter, which can even be done stealthily, professionally and cheaply. It will do a better job, actually provide some very minor gains, and prevent unfiltered air getting into the engine. See below for a bad example.. very bad... "A-YANK-Murica" bad - Might as well disconnect the filter than destroy the airbox: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51179 "Here's basically what I did...goes all the way around the lower portion of the intake box "
  4. Supra_knight

    Long stops in traffic- Best practice

    I do agree with you overall. If I don't need to have my brake lights on, I don't. However, its important to recognise that the MUST NOT RULES are general, whilst the attached SHOULD section is being implied specific to stationary traffic for a reason. Yes the MUST NOT Rules ALWAYS override it, ALWAYS. But the whole reason for having the "SHOULD" section for "stationary queuing traffic" at all, is to allow for the understanding that there may be known exceptions, otherwise you wouldn't even have it in there, you would leave it out or change it to MUST. They(department for transport) obviously foresee some, albeit rare, situations where by there is an allowance for constantly displaying your brake lights while stationary. -Perhaps they were thinking that in very heavy weather, where visibility is so poor that the driver will behind benefit from seeing your brake lights. -Or perhaps they believe that under certain road conditions, surface, hazards or other measures that the Handbrake isn't considered satisfactory enough to safely restrain the car. -Perhaps it was for mechanical reasons to cover vehicles who's handbrake wont operate in a certain fashion or conditions, or have no alternative but to display brake lights. I don't know for sure, but whatever the reasons, again the Department for transport has felt it necessary to specifically put in a SHOULD(Advisory) clause to allow for discretionary decisions, in exceptional circumstance, specifically for stationary traffic, to allow drivers to keep the brake lights on when justifiable. ...<breath> So, with that being there, Toyota could very well argue that the systems they employ on their cars, take into consideration all these different things, and keep brake lights on or off, when stationary, in order to provide maximum safety, in line with the Highway code, and its rules and advisories. Of course they would have to prove it works, which is another matter altogether ....
  5. Supra_knight

    Hard wiring a dash cam

    It's whats I'm doing now :) (I'm waiting for my new dash cam, got a temp one up at present.) The only thing i will say is this - MOST of the time the above will work without issue. However, its worth testing first using a USB cable you might already have. This is because on rare occasion, certain devices need a custom USB cable, and sometimes need more amps. Examples: I have a dual, 2 amp, USB port plugged into my cig lighter, and 2 standard USB cables running to the dash cam and phone. This all Works fine. The 1st USB Cable for the Dash cam is a long ***** cable from an old portable hard drive(dash-cam end is the mini USB type). Works fine, and I've charged other devices with it. The 2nd cable is for my phone, and is a cheap cable from a Belkin phone charger.(Phone end is micro USB) - It charges my phone fine, and I've also charged many other devices with it too. BUT - My cheap crappy tablet wont charge with anything other the cable it came with, despite it being USB and micro HDMI. The manufacturer did some kinda custom job on the cable - AND it wont charge other devices either. So If want to charge it in the car, I have to swap out a damn cable.
  6. Supra_knight

    How to get more hp in an Auris?

    The eternal quest for more power:) It all comes down to budget. If money is no option, you can turn anything into a HP monster. But when you have a limited budget, you might struggle. Its going to be a combo of the tried and tested little things you can afford, and in all honesty, they wont do a huge amount in cars which arnt performance focused. Things likec: changing to a pod filter, larger exhaust, timing/cams, plugs, fueling, ecu maping, etc,etc.there is no magic "add 100hp" button you can buy, because i would have several if there was. The other problem is how much your engine can take. Some engines cant handle 10hp more than they came with, breaking parts left and centre. Others can handle hundreds more, so ther is a limit for small cars that can only be beaten by using a mountain of platinum credit cards. Personally I believe too much HP is bad use for performance money. Its overrated and misunderstood. Too many people chase big numbers because of the fad, but if its badly done, its a waste of money. Too many times I've seen 600hp cars destory 1000 hp cars all day. It comes down to how much of it you can practically use and how the car is build-balanced overall. My advise is to go for handling first. Coilvers, arms, swaybars and links, a big brake package, properly good tyres, etc. The difference will be staggering. In a city car like an auris you could easily be able to smack any supercar round tight urban streets all day long. If you have the option to save up for a faster, performance focused car though, id go that route. ( I didnt actually do that myself and wish i had lol)
  7. Supra_knight

    what is this called please...

    Assuming you have a 1Cd-Ftv engine, It looks extreamly like a VRV (Vaccum Regulating Valve). Good news is that the broken post looks to be a vent/breather point, so its very unlikly to cause you any problems at all. There is a thread on another forum with the same thing, and a great example of what looks to be the same broken port issue. https://www.boards.ie/b/thread/2057369469 (About 2/3 way down with a big picture of the same thing) Their post: "Right so I pulled out the E-VRV (VACUUM REGULATING VALVE) today. Checked the continuity with an ohm meter as specified in the Toyota repair manuals. All the numbers are good, the only thing is it looks like one of the ports is snapped off. Here's a photo how a good one should look: Here's how mine looks: "
  8. Supra_knight

    Hard wiring a dash cam

    Check the Kit to be precise, but no - none need to go to the battery unless the kit directly says so. The fuse box and existing ground cables will work fine. Honestly, its best to read the instructions than anything i've written below, they are usually more accurate and detailed - but if not then there is a general setup for most dashcams: If there is only 2 wires, red and black: then black goes to ground, technically anywhere you can. -A metal point on the car such as a bolt hole would work as ground, where you would use a proper fitting such as a Crimp Ring Terminal end, but it would be best to use an existing ground cable, which are everywhere, such as the one off the back of the audio/stereo unit. -The red power cable goes to a power source which is only live when the ignition is on - usually there is an inline fuse on the red cable and it either goes over(piggy backs e.g Halfords "Autoblade Add-a-fuse") to the cig lighter fuse or replace's it altogether. The cig light will still work, its just the dashcam will draw from there - The Cig lighter fuse is used because it only activates when thee ignition is on. That way a simplistic dash cam wont stay on and drain the battery when the car is switch off. IgnON/DashcamON --> IngOFF/Dashcamoff Most hardwired kits however have at least 4 cables, as most dash cams these days have more features: - That means there is often 4 cables - 1 Ground, 1 Power (Permanent), 1 Power (Ignition) and an Aux line. --The ground is the same as above, --the Permanent power goes to a permanently live power source, same the same as say where the alarm gets power, (This is so the dash cam can work in standbymode, when the car is off and unattended, such as using motion detection to take picture of people looking into your parked car) --the Ignition power goes to an ACC line or something like the cig lighter fuse, that way the dashcam knows when the ign is switched on, and goes into video recording mode. The dashcam kit should tell you specifically how it should be connected. --and the AUX(usually a proper plug on the end) goes into the back of the stereo so you can view the dashcam on your cars LCD screen (if you have one with AUX input, but makes a terrible reversing camera lol) -In my old car I had two separate dash-cams, one at front, one at back, (I hardwired both - 4 cables each. piggybacked the Cig Light Fuse for Ign Source cable, piggybacked the fuse for the alarm, grounded to a frame bolt behind the dash, and plugged the two aux's into front and rear aux on my head unit. B@ST#RD thing to wire up 😞 -WHen I would park the car, the dashcams went into "observe mode" snapping pictures by motion dection or recording for a duration on an impact. When i got back and started the car, it went into Normal record mode. Next you have more complex and expensive dashcams which integrate into the car, alarm, stereo and more - They have their own GPS, sim and antenna, and the cables get right out of control for those. It allows the dash-cam to be mush more "smart" in when to turn on, display and even interact on the car LCD screen, knowing how to turn on, what turn on(IR light for example), detection and zoom, record extra information about location, car speed, etc, even to notify the user of events by phone and even upload video, all automatically. Basically more like a smartphone than a dashcam. As I said though, It really best to use the kit instructions than any of the rambling above, and have a professional installer do it for you... I wouldn't listen to the advise above :)
  9. If you can get a look at the belt, check for signs of wear on the belt itself, is there any fraying, cracking, chipping, etc. Also look at the teeth to see how much they have been worn down. There will also be writing on the belt which will gradually wear off with use. The lower KM driven on the belt, the newer it should look. If the writing is bright and clear, and the rest seems fine, its a good sign the belt is probably OK, really was done at 105k km's, and it will likely be fine for another 75k km's. Belts are generally very well protected from the environment, and are built to be pretty damn tough, so its unlikely it will have rotted/degraded at all. Obviously this isn't a fixed rule, there are some engines which have exposed cam-belts, and they can suffer as a result, you have to look at each car for a variety of factors. Ultimately, and Unfortunately, there isn't a 100% way of knowing, - but remember this - there are many cars out there running original cam-belts a lot older without issue. One thing to note is If the cam-belt has/is slipping very slightly, the engine will usually run horribly, and the dash will usually light up like a Christmas tree with warnings. If you were to change the belt, you also might as well change the tensioner and idle pulley, they are just as important to making sure the cambelt does it job and they wear out over time also. Generally speaking, they are also changed whenever a cam-belt is changed, so i suspect they are fine and allready replaced, but there is no way i can say for sure sorry. Overall, my guess is your cambelt is fine, but that is just a Guess as I cant see, inspect, hear, the car, nor do i know much about your engine. For the whistling - there is a heap of things that could cause whistling in an engine, many of them are normal, but sometimes it can be a sign of wear. There's other belts, pumps, electric motors, pipes and more that could whistle from a bonnet. You really need to pinpoint the whistle source 100% - see if its loudest at the cambelt, or somewhere else in the car. It could be all sorts. lastly. If you engine has a cam CHAIN instead of a belt.... then I've done a lot of typing for nothing lol :)
  10. Unfortunatly its a hard question - Your cars's service/user manual is the best bet to start. Without knowing the specifics of your engine, how its been driven,maintained, etc, its nearly impossible to tell you if you should change it. My GUESS is that its likely fine, but there is no way we can be certain for you. Timing belts have both a distance and age value associated with them. Approx 100,000km is a common change interval for them, so only 35,000km should be fine - and depending on the quality of the belt they often last for a lot longer than 7 years (assuming ordinary driving). But again - your service manual will be able to tell you if these figures are OK - it will state its age/lifespan,. Most timing belts have very ways to easy see an inspect them for tension and condition(even change them), again - your service manual should tell you how :) I will say that if, for whatever reason, the belt has started to degrade, then you should consider changing it, as it will at the very least stop the car dead if it fails. If its an interference engine(like most are) then it will actually destroy your engine if it fails.
  11. Supra_knight

    Hard wiring a dash cam

    Doing it yourself is really easy from a technical perspective, but painful from a practical point of view. If it's a simple two wire connection, then its the black/ground to a ground point anywhere, and red/power to power source. There is often more wires though, such as active power, and signalling input like head unit aux. Most usually go to fuse points via the kits adapters. The kit will usually have full instructions and parts. The hurdle is hiding and routing the wiring, as it will likely need to go behind things like the dash, roof liner, a pillers, even possibly through tunnels to the battery, etc. Get a swear jar ready, a full free day(if not a technical person), and LOTS of penny's as you work out how. BUT you should consider this big problem: Yours or any other insurance companys may ask for proof of professional installation in a claim, if its suspected to be done badly - and use it against you if its a bodge job. For example, its all to easy to take the easy route of a DIY job, and just twisting the wires to a point and taping up, instead of using proper connector's - or just connecting grounds end to the nearest bolt. This will work, usually quite well, but has some small risk. Most of all, it opens the door to "This was unprofessionally performed/installed, voided warranty, and may have contributed to car faults/accident/etc." On 99% of cars, I would recommend a professional install purely for liability purposes. Just not on mine 😛(older classic car)
  12. Supra_knight

    Supra - 1994 | Twin Turbo | 6 Spd Manual

    Simon's JZA80 Toyota Supra 1994 | Twin Turbo | 6 Spd Manual
  13. Supra_knight

    Corolla dead?

    As the owner of a high performance car, we quite commonly see failures that are caused by the biological bit between the driver seat the steering wheel. So for us, the first line of "Causal investigation" is about how the car was being driven. If you were also in the car when it happened - then its just down to maintenance levels, mechanical wear and so on as the cause - your next step is to investigating the damage levels. You might just get away with it. But only your mechanic who can get in there will be able to tell you. Unfortunately most engines are interference engines these days, and your 1ZR looks to be just that type. So when the chain TOTALLY goes, it is all but certain that it will destroy the engine. However, If you weren't in the car, then id actually be a little suspicious. Id check the cars wheel wells for rubber, as well as the condition of the tires, down the undersides, etc, etc. Look for signs of "fun" driving. It may have happened eventually anyway(broken down), but a very common way that a lot of cars come undone is: "Dads Car + Aged and Worn Components + poor servicing + Testosterone = usually something breaks."
  14. Supra_knight

    New Memeber -Relocating

    Hi all Thanks for letting me be part of the club. I'm Simon and I'm sort of new to the UK.. My own Toyota supra will be landing in the UK in march. Its on its way from Australia where its been my ride for some years now. (Personal circumstances mean I'm better off living in the UK than Australia, and as a dual citizen, Im here again and trying to get used to a now permanent life in the UK.) My cars a 1994 jza80, RZ, TT, 6 Speed, and with this move its nearly been round the world now, literally, starting life in japan before importing to Australia(previous owner) and now its coming with me in my move to the UK. Importing a car (and home contents) is a fun experience in some ways, and a nightmare in others, so i might keep this thread updated as it progresses. Nothing ever goes to plan, so alternatives are a must. The car is being brought in via a British group that specialises in performance imports to the UK, so I'm letting them bring it up to UK road standards, they were very impressive next to their competitors, but i suspect they feel a little disappointed compared to the exotics they are used to dealing with. With my car, they are going to have to deal with a well worn/used modified supra that's really needing more and more restoration. The biggest challenge so far in importing isn't the car, nor the expected work required and not even customs or the UK govt. It's insurance. In Australia it was very reasonable and easy for me(because of living there). I'm over 35, I've got a lifetime of no claims bonus, a clean driving record(au license), and the supra is less than half the value it is in the UK. The result is I could have paid less than 500 pounds for comprehensive, (pointless in Au for modified imports, so i had 3rd party-f&t at about 200 pounds annually). This of course is all totally Meaningless to UK insurance right now. Whilst its early in my search, so far it seems that UK insurance groups: Consider both my Au license and previous insurance like a fictional tale from the lord of the rings movie, Consider my British passport as counting for nothing, Consider that only people living in the UK for years can gave a no claim bonus, my 15 years in Aus is irrelevant. Consider the Toyota supra as a work of dark, foul and demonic forces from hell, and that only 18/yo criminal thugs own them, so they subsequently treat me like I'm a child related to Satan himself. One insurance group tried to tell me that an rx-8 was "ridiculously too high powered" for UK roads, let alone a Toyota supra with double the horsepower, which was, as they described, "totally uninsurable in the UK, and most likely anywhere". Not sure what he thought when I hung up, genuinely laughing my head off whilst he was trying to say something. Other groups are less naive and just astronomically priced. I've got some more leads to investigate, so I'll likely find something, and if not, I do have backup plans if it fails, including mothballing the car for a few months whilst i convert my Au license to UK. Provided It all works out, I'm looking forward to driving it around the country and attending any events I can (I'm based near Manchester). As an Aussie used to long distance travel, driving from one end of the UK to another isn't a big deal for me, so no location/event is too far:)