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Supra_knight last won the day on June 26 2018

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  1. Supra_knight

    New corolla e11 SR from Spain

    Welcome aboard, nice car :) Unfortunately these days, I think our kind of cars (performance and or modified) are lost on many of the active members on here. I've found it hard just to get people here interested in a new sports car from Toyota, even when its all over the auto news, let alone high performance or modified cars. I don't know much about the 3zz platform, but i know they have a strong following for a reason, so It should be a good setup you have there, as I have very similar brands(mods) on my Supra. (APEXi, Recaro, Michelin). For the injectors and manifold concerns, If you not planning on going too far down the modification road, then i would think piggyback ecu's might be a solution that will allow you to map for the changes. But again, i know very little about your chassis to say for sure sorry.
  2. Supra_knight

    Clutch Issue?

    It shattered? Just out of curiosity..... was someone perhaps having a little too much..... um..... fun?... say in a car-park?,... late at night? 😉 Might be worth checking your tires and handbrake aswell 😄
  3. Supra_knight

    Yorkshire Tea domino run

    Thats awsome. The most impressive thing was it looks as though it didn't actually fail, it was end-to-end complete. I only saw one or two blips, none of which stopped the main fall. It was pretty much perfect. Too many of the giant setups stop halfway, and they they edit out the restarts. That just looked like gold the whole way through :) Whats even more impressive is how no one stole the biscuits .. If id have been there, i so would have so done a biscuit binge running along side, homer Simpson style :)
  4. Supra_knight

    Site loosing its end goal?

    So admittedly I've only been on here a fraction of the time that others have, but I'm getting dismayed by what it seems to be so far. From my perspective, it feels less like an owners club of any kind, and really just a free technical support website for Toyota owners who have a problem. - Owners who do a once off "punch in, punch out" - "solution please?" post. I'm not saying that it shouldn't have that, that's an important component, but it should command a lot more of itself than that. All I've seen to date is mountains of posts seeking technical help. There's no discussion on almost anything else. There is no sign of club meetings or club events. Any news about Toyota and its cars goes through seemingly unnoticed and uninterested. - And this is from a club which could potentially have one of the largest national membership bases. From the viewpoint of a club initiate, I'm struggling to remain interested in it. Was it always this way?
  5. Supra_knight

    Coolant loss from expansion overflow

    Unfortunatly thats means things have to get more serious in consideration. Water doesn't just dissapear. Its getting out somehow, and there is really only 3 main ways. 1- Evap from the expansion tank, 2 - Leaking from a pipe, part, connector, etc...., or 3 - its getting into the cylinders and being passed out the exhaust. 1 -The cap is now ruled out, next step 2 - Leaks - If the cap is ruled out, you want to start looking for leaks. They can be very hard to spot , as if its small slow leak, it could be evaporating off before showing any clear signs. If you have red coolant, you should see some sort of pinkish staining somewhere if this is the case,. If you cant find any leak in or around anywhere, such as the rad itself, poor connections, water feed lines, water pump, etc... and your absolutely sure there is none -then its onto the next step. But believe me, those leaks can be damn hard to find, and you WANT to find this ...because its much better than the next step. Professional Mechanics are usually excellent at finding leaks quickly because of their experience. Home mechanics like me take forever to find them. 3- If Leaks are ruled out - now you have to start looking at the possibility of water getting into places it should not, in particular the head gasket. If its a "small" head gasket leak(if there is such a thing) it will very likely get worse soon. You may not notice much water vapor out the exhaust now, but it could be an emerging sign and getting worse. Also look for emulsified oil. Thats when oil and water have actually mixed. Looks like a off white milky sludge - Thas BAD. Look in the oil cap and the dipstick for signs. Also start the engine without the rad cap and look for bubbles in the coolant, which could indicate gas is also escaping and passing into the coolant chambers. A head gasket is an urgent fix if identified, so you shouldn't even start the car if looks to be the case. Its also a horrible job to do as-well, hence the high labor costs for it. The only other freak/fluke chance I can think of is what I've sen before back in Australia. Someone I know flushed their Coolant system out for maintenance, and didn't put anywhere near enough back in. How the hell the engine ran and didnt overheat I don't know, but they were complaining about topping up the expansion tank for weeks until they realized. by then it had the correct amount in it, and the expansion tank was no longer emptying itself and running dry all the time. Had it been an Aussie summer, Id say it would have been a lot worse for them.
  6. Supra_knight

    Coolant loss from expansion overflow

    Assuming your not loosing fluid though a leak somewhere else, (and assuming your exhaust isn't showing signs of water vapor during combustion), double check the RAD cap(even if new). If its the wrong pressure rating, faulty, or an ebay-china special, it could explain it. Not all caps are equal. Quite the opposite. I just had nearly Identical problem on my car that i solved with a new and better rad cap - Granted my car is world and lifetime apart from a avensis, the principle and rad tech is still the same. Phil from the MKiV supra owners club explained the basic problem quite well (12 Years ago!?!? so depressing 😞 ) Name: Losing coolant from the reservoir bottle Also known as: Losing coolant Overflow bottle is always empty Expansion tank What is it? The overflow tank of the coolant system isn't in fact an overflow tank - it's the expansion tank or coolant reservoir. When all components of the cooling system are functioning correctly the level of fluid in the reservoir will rise and fall a small amount as pressure in the system fluctuates. Once the engine has stopped and the water pump ceases to move water round the system and the forced cooling effect of the radiator ceases, there is a temporary rise in the fluid level in the reservoir bottle. As the system cools, coolant is drawn back into the system and the level of coolant in the reservoir will return to its original position, usually the max mark on the bottle. If you are losing coolant, each warmup-cooldown cycle will empty the expansion tank further until it's dry. Usually caused by: The most common cause of fluid loss is a faulty radiator cap. Why? If you have a faulty cap it cannot sustain the pressure of the system and allows extra fluid to be transferred to the reservoir bottle. Under driving conditions the cooling effect of the radiator may be sufficient to counteract the reduction in pressure caused by a minor fault in the cap. However, once the car is stationary the radiator may not provide enough cooling to prevent the coolant level from getting so high in the reservoir bottle that some coolant is vented off from the reservoir cap. In a hot engine with the stock fan running any released coolant will fall onto the under tray and will quickly evaporate. When the ignition is switched off, no further forced cooling is possible with the stock fan. With a faulty radiator cap and the vehicle park on level ground or facing up hill, any vented coolant will not be visible as it will fall on to and be absorbed into the tray. With a mildly faulty cap this venting of coolant will continue at each period of use until the cap is replaced. If the cap is not replaced the coolant the in reservoir will fall to a level that is below the mouth of the return feed to the radiator and air will be dawn into the system. However if the reservoir is checked when the vehicle is warm the level of coolant visible may look normal as it takes quite some time for the system to cool sufficiently to draw coolant back from the reservoir. Left unchecked the system will continue to vent fluid when ever the pressure in the system becomes higher than the faulty cap can sustain. Visual checks of a hot may lead the owner to mistakenly believe all is well. How bad is this problem? If you overheat your car due to lack of coolant, it can reach new-engine-time levels of seriousness. However, just having an empty reservoir tank isn't the end of the world. No damage is done until the car actually overheats, so fill it back up and replace the rad cap sooner rather than later. Other possible causes: There are other more serious reason for the car to lose coolant, a leak at the head gasket or a failing or loose hose connection. By checking your cold coolant level regularly you will soon spot a sudden change and prevent more potentially serious engine problems. -Phil
  7. On Friday, Toyota UK (@ToyotaUK) and Toyota Europe (@toyota_Europe) invited the Supra Owners club to a facility in Gatwick, for a special access event to the new supra. I was unable to attend unfortunately, but from what I can tell, those who did attend, had more privileged access than the media had at Goodwood. (The event will NOT be repeated elsewhere 😞) I wont go into detail about the car, as there is enough discussion allready, on places like the owner forums, Facebook and so on. Also floating around is a lot more photos and videos. Here is two pics though to give you an idea: Picture credits to Mike cattle and JB Branners.
  8. Supra_knight

    Need advice to improve ride quality and comfort

    I would go with frosty's post above, I think his answer is on the money. Check to see if you have that package. It could (but not necessarily) be stamped on the car's build plate, suspension components, or more. If not, it might just be one a line in the purchase agreement or the service manual etc, etc. Worse case you may have it, and only an inspection of the parts can tell.
  9. Supra_knight

    Sweaty Socks.

    Different car, different age, different mechanicals, but a good story for the same problem, even if it is only loosely related. My car had trouble draining the condensate for ages, and was making some odd gurgling/bubbling sounds, plus a sight smell of stagnant water. Problem was the drain pipe, The drain pipe in my car is like an L shape. It feeds out of the tank(behind passenger dash), through the firewall and bends down to pass out a a hole in the engine tray. So when investigating, I go looking under the car for drainage when there should be some - Don't find any. I start looking for the drain pipe. Cant find it. I go under the bonnet, no pipe where it should be.... Find the feed out from the firewall, Find the pipe, and Find Some Muppet had put it on upside down. It was facing UP - so in order to drain condensate water would have had to drain UP a pipe about 30 cm long .. obviously that was a problem. Spun the pipe around, got wet, swore quite a bit, but solved the issue, now onto the next 😄
  10. Supra_knight

    Goodwood FOS - 2019 Supra Debut

    2019 Supra Debut at Goodwood A production Prototype of the Toyota supra was unveiled at the Goodwood festival of speed today, going up the hill and on display. It was still in camo livery as the car is still not finished and could even be subject to change if needed. Very interesting was how much interest there was for the car from the public and the fans. It was probably the most anticipated car of all. YET - Unfortunately thanks to the vast amount of on site "whats the price tag?" posers at good-wood who dont know its a car event, combined with the the very traditional "Look at me I'm a lord and headmaster from 1950's" organisers, it didn't get the air time or recognition its namesake should grant it.
  11. Supra_knight

    New UK road signs to detect and warn of mobile usage

    I like the idea.I really do, i want to see people get off their damn phones while driving. But I hate it when a good idea is fraudulently presented as operationally sound. This here is basically tech fraud, and genuine fake news. There is all sorts of technical issues with this - Its just not technically capable of making the determinations it claims. Its accuracy and reliability level would be appallingly bad. To make it actually work, you would have to triangulating the signal to a moving precision of 10cm by a large network of sensors along a long path, say a mile. Even then, you still cant determine if that is in a car or not, you would need ridiculous amounts of additional detectors to determine what is a car, if there is a car, if the cars position matches the phone, if the car is left or right hand drive, and if he phone is in the drivers seat during the call. Then you have the problem of when a phone is legally secured, used on hand free, BUT not via Bluetooth, like so many aftermarket head units, plus SOS and CS systems in prestige cars, motorcycles, pushbikes, etc.... the list of determinations is huge. 6000 grand wont get you anything other than a sign that goes off from any nearby mobile call. 60,000 would help start, and 600,000 would more likely be needed for ONE sign. With the system described as it is now, anyone could trigger the warning at any time just by making a normal call near the basic radial sensor. Be that a passenger in the car on their phone, pedestrians anywhere near the sensor on theirs, another car along side with their passenger or driver on the phone, etc. The list of possible false flags is just to large to make this credible with current tech. Augmented reality systems are slightly better at achieving this goal of phone detection while driving, and cheaper, but they too are terrible inaccurate, unreliable and expensive. IMO They would have been better to put the money into signs signs saying "Mobile Phone detectors in area, fines may apply", as well as officers to patrol the area with eyes and ears. Again, I support the initiative and the ideology here, but this just isn't a practical solution, its very poor way of using funds which I feel could have been spent better for the purpose.
  12. I'm waiting a bit nervously for this one. More worried that excited. The JZA80 is arguably one, of it not the, greatest achievements for Toyota, in terms of overall engineering, styling, performance, reputation and cult following. This new one has a HUGE legacy to look up to, and rumors are...... mixed?..... right now. "Toyota is debuting the production Supra at Goodwood The Mark V Supra is getting its first public appearance at the world's greatest car show."
  13. Supra_knight

    Goodwood FOS - 2019 Supra Debut

    Toyota is semi-launching the supra this week, with a function tomorrow evening in London, taking the prototype to Good-wood, and possibly other sites. Quite a few of the the MKIV club will be attending with their historic examples in London and goodwood. Just one catch. Its really only for the south. If your from up north, the car WONT be coming up here. Toyota confirmed it to me when I inquired. There is NO roadshow planned for the north - EVER. If your up north like me, and want to see the launch of the latest re-incarnation of Toyota's greatest ever sports car, (also one of the worlds greatest) , - then you will need to take a long drive south, or wait for it to go on sale and book a test drive in a dealership late next year - assuming they bring it to the north at all 😞
  14. Supra_knight

    Trouble with DPF filter and having some questions

    I'll let one of the far more experienced people on here go into detail and correct me where im wrong. But given your error code, and assuming its a competent garage, It sounds like your DPF might be the issue, and as a result, the various sensors in the system, such as exhaust, are telling the car there is a critical fault, and its going into limp mode. I have had a near identical & repeating issue in a previous Mercedes C class. For a week prior I had had terrible fuel economy. Then the DPF failed on me one day, the exhaust sensors had a fit, and I lost most power since I was now in Limp mode, (AKA "you shouldn't really be driving it" mode). The Dash warning lights lit up like a Christmas tree everywhere. Limp mode then proactively shut down access to a ton of normal systems like Cruise control, traction, manual shift mode, etc, etc. Limp mode very really meant "limp" - it was sluggish as hell to drive. Mercedes instructed not to drive it any further and it it got towed to the dealer where it was formally diagnosed as the DPF. For me, the DPF failure was caused by a literal lack of driving, or more specifically not driving the car long enough to get the DPF hot enough to ever activate. (I would only take it out for a short drive each time - This is the biggest flaw with DPF's as an idea). Mercedes tried to Clean out the DPF, but it only lasted a month before it happened again. Second time Mercedes managed to get it right, and the car didn't have the issue again, plus I also made sure it got a good enough run each time. Unfortunately for cars that only get used for short runs(Diesel only ones obviously), DPF problems are supposedly common. Its still very possibly something else, but given the code and the garage's attempt to clean out the DPF, id say its your primary suspect. Here is the "OBDII Trouble code Technical description" of your error if it helps, and it does answer your 2,3, and 4 questions. For 1(CC) , I can only assume it somehow triggers the fault and check in its operation. Either that or its a co-incidence :) P2002 = Diesel Particulate Filter Efficiency Below Threshold Symptoms of a P2002 DTC may include: -A drop in fuel economy occurs as the engine management system attempts to increase the temperature of the exhaust to burn off the excess soot in the DPF -The check engine light will be on with the code "P2002." The light may stay on or light intermittently as the DPF regenerates. the engine will be sluggish on acceleration. -The engine oil will exhibit dilution from the ECUs attempts to increase engine temperature. Some vehicles advance the fuel injection timing slightly after top center to afterburn a small amount of fuel to increase exhaust temperatures. Some of this fuel enters the crankcase. When the ECU determines the necessity to regenerate the DPF, the service life of the oil be shortened significantly -if the DPF is not cleared the ECU will revert to the "Limp Home Mode" until the situation is corrected The causes for this DTC may include: -Too much slow speed operation will cause this code. It takes heat in the 500c to 600c range to burn off the soot in the DPF. Even with the ECUs efforts in engine management, it has difficulty in creating enough heat to clear the DPF at slow engine speeds -An air leak forward of the DPF will change the sensor readings resulting in the code -Defective ECU strategies or components will prevent proper regeneration -Fuel with a large percentage of sulfur will clog the DPF quickly -Some aftermarket accessories and performance modifications -Dirty air cleaner element -Damaged DPF
  15. Supra_knight

    Mixing Brake Fluids?

    On the basis of pure caution, i would drain and replace again. Its that's just not possible for any reason, your best to check with the two manufacturers of the fluid, as the types can vary substantially. For example , Motul points out with their fluid: DOT 5.1 BRAKE FLUID, QUALITY100% SYNTHETIC, OEM APPROVALS: FMVSS 116 DOT 5.1 NON SILICONE BASE, DOT 4 ET DOT 3 ; SAE J 1703 ; ISO 4925 (5.1, 4 ET 3) RECOMMENDATIONS Mixable with DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 NON SILICONE BASE products. Do not mix with silicone (DOT 5 silicone base) or mineral base fluids (LHM). Taken from: