Mikeyjd

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About Mikeyjd

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mike
  • Toyota Model
    RAV4 D4D T180
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Wrexham

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  1. Same thing happened to me today. 2006 T180. Went in to a garage with CEL. Just had a phone cal that it looks like head gasket has gone. Don't know if any other damage done yet. So I would also appreciate any info on likelihood of it being repairable. Thanks.
  2. Was it a straight swap or do any sensors etc have to be reset?
  3. Agree. They are common issues and probably the most likely. But many other niggles can throw those lights on. Some people ignore them and drive around for ages. Some faults will activate limp home mode though, so eventually make the car virtually undrivable.
  4. 2006. Quite low mileage (80,000 miles).
  5. As above reply. I would say that if any engine damage occurred from the mis-fueling, you would know by now. Maybe try some additive in the fuel?
  6. Quite common for all 3 lights to come on. Check engine light can be connected to a number of issues, the other 2 lights generally appear as the systems will not operate correctly with CEL, if that makes sense. So it is engine ;right you need to diagnose. Same thing happened to me last week. the 3 lights came on but the car ran OK. After a couple days the car goes into "Limp mode" after several minutes driving, but runs Ok after a short stop. My car was checked over by a friendly mechanic with his test equipment. Fault was diagnosed as clogging soot filter. I have booked car in with a specialist next week to sort out the DPF. As I said the lights could be caused by a number of issues.The only way of knowing is to get the car plugged into some diagnostic kit to pinpoint the problem.
  7. I would try a different cable first.
  8. Our car recently started to show the following lights. CEL 4X4 VSC. Car drove fine at first then started to go into limp mode after a few minutes of driving each time it is started. I took it to a garage I know and they put the fault tester on it. Fault was diagnosed as excess soot and they cleared the fault. So I poured a bottle of DFP cleaner in the fuel and started to drive the car at a decent speed to try to clean the DPF. Unfortunately the lights reappeared shortly after and the car goes into limp mode so I cannot maintain a decent speed for long enough to try to clean out the DPF. Any suggestion? I have seen garages offering a DPF cleaning service, is it worthwhile trying? Alternatively I have seen new DPF on eBay for about £270.
  9. I had the same problem. I was told to try the switch. Before I bought a new one I just wanted to check how it fitted. In the process I must have jiggled it a bit. That cured the problem and I never had the issue again. I didn't need to reset anything either. Maybe cleaning the contacts didn't cure the problem, a new switch is only about £20.
  10. On the subject of mileage. High mileage isn't necessarily a bad thing. My wife had a Rav4 2.2 with 160,000 miles on it. It ran very well until it was written off in an accident recently. A low mileage car could have been misused and end up being a load of trouble. As there is no real way of judging a cars history, go with the general condition of the body first and try to check out visible things like brakes and suspension etc. Is there any reason why you are looking at a 4x4? If you are looking for a pretty cheap and hopefully reliable runabout maybe consider other cars, you will have more choice.
  11. You should be able to find what you want here: https://www.toyota.com/owners/resources/warranty-owners-manuals/rav4/2011
  12. I would say it is extremely unlikely that all 4 injectors are faulty at these same time. The fault lights can be caused by something as simple as brake light switch (as previously mentioned). It happened on our previous Rav4, I didn't even change the switch, I just jiggled it. But a new switch is only about £20, so worth a try. Engine losing acceleration could be just going into "limp home" mode as the car thinks it has a problem, doesn't necessarily mean there is a real problem.
  13. In my Jag. The option is only available in the automatic version and the car has to be locked and left in park mode. It can then only be driven if somebody with a key enters the car and then has to put their foot on the brake before putting the car into drive. It is correct that it is illegal to leave a car running with nobody in it, but that does not apply to cars parked on private land.
  14. I am assuming it is the system for starting your car and warming it up inside for the winter. Quite a few cars have this. I cant start my other car (Jag) and set the temperature using an app on my mobile phone. With many cars it is an optional extra. I would assume Toyota would offer this on some models.
  15. Several years ago my Renault Megane was rear ended by a van. The estimate to repair was £3000. The insurance company wanted to write off the car as it wasn't economical to repair. The company pointed out cars for sale in automart etc. We had a debate over the phone and I pointed out that my model was not as common as many others and asked them to check the exact spec and see it they could find a similar model. In the end they relented and repaired the car. Remember, insurance companies are a business, they are only interested in saving money and cutting their own costs. They will usually offer less than a car is worth. Regarding the "write off". Cars are classed as Category N write-offs if they don't have any structural damage but will cost more to repair than they are worth. This means they're still safe to drive, and quite often the owners or car repairers will decide to repair them rather than scrap them. So, if you want to keep it, get a quote to repair the car and ask the insurance company to pay. It is important to remember that insurance repair costs are based on new parts. If you use "send hand" parts the cost will be a lot cheaper.